While I don't have the sophisticated nose of
BoarderPhreak here's my "review" of Promises.
Barrister and Mann - Promises
Wolf Whiskers | Raptor | Black Wolf
Radio 1912 | Gem PTFE
Complexity is almost synonymous with Barrister and Mann fragrances, but Promises is deceptively complex. The fragrance is loaded with notes that could easily become weighty, but instead, this is what I categorize as light. Yet it easily remains present for at least six hours. I probably confused the matter by using the splash first without the reference of the soap. In my experience, in most cases, paired soaps are simply a muted, less complex representation of the envisioned fragrance. I shave every other day, and on non-shave days, I often apply an aftershave on my head following my shower. Doing this with Promises resulted in experiencing a very pleasant fragrance for a good portion of my day, but giving me expectations from the soap that were quite different---not just muted. The splash opened with surprising honeyed bourbon-esqe note. It’s surprising because Barrister and Mann refused to release a paired splash for the now discontinued “Fireside” citing the lingering fragrance of cognac would not be well received. I would be fine with it, but I see the point. That being their stance, bourbon was the last thing I expected from the Promises splash. However, just as I was trying to explain it away, the note became less familiar. I suspect the combination of the denatured alcohol and whatever this peculiar note was yielded only a fleeting resemblance to honeyed bourbon and thus destabilized as the alcohol burned off. This is good because while I’m a fan of honey and bourbon, I’m not particularly a fan of honeyed bourbon. You already know my layperson’s version of a review are often meandering, describing the fragrance as I experience it, but ultimately having a point. Unfortunately, this one may not, because after having used this splash twice, I simply can’t succinctly define the notes. Instead, Promises, following the initial fleeting boozy stage, begins warm and festive. Certainly non-alcoholic Winter beverages come to mind---suggestive of, but not definitively nog, wassail, and spiced tea. I do not detect cinnamon, although given the accomplices, it was expected, and my mind kept trying to insert it in much the same fashion I insert imaginary clove into bay rum fragrances that are noted to be devoid of said oil. This warm festive beverage stage is the longer plateau before dropping off the sweeter honey notes in favor of the bitter citrus and finally resin. It never descends into a dark fragrance, but rather a colder one. With regard to the splash, it’s in the company of B&M’s “First Snow” and even “Fireside” (if it had a splash) without sharing much more than their evocation of memories and feelings.
I like to use complex products without having the ad copy fresh in my mind. If I had recalled the term “rubbery” from B&M’s blurb, it would have ruined what happened next. As I lathered the Promises soap, I anticipated at least a brief opening of something similar to Fireside’s cognac, but instead, I was met with a very pleasant surprise. G.I. Joe and Star Wars action figures (NOT dolls) of my youth, and to an extent the glossy comic book covers and trade paperback collections all flooded my memory with this distinct opening note. Thankfully, it sustains for a fair portion of the shave before acquiescing to the warmer, spicy notes with a slightly sweet and bitter finish.
Promises simply must be paired to be fully realized. I did it backwards, but ultimately I understand it. The soap represents the holidays from my childhood perspective without being novel, while the splash is more adult without being dull. The transition from one to the other, while holding onto common elements is beautifully done.
In reviewing the description on Barrister and Mann’s site, apparently the saffron is the culprit for what is described as a “strange, rubbery, industrial character” intended to evoke the feeling of “being out on the trail with idling sleds…” Personally, I’ve never ridden a sled. In fact, where I grew up, in the off chance we had enough accumulation, the vehicle of choice was either a galvanized steel trash can lid or a rusty till blade disc---neither of which hold a candle to the joy of opening those action figures and comics.