Wolfman WR2 Head Discussion

The shim on the baseplate to make it more aggressive is basic and quite obvious. I’m not sure if I understand how shimming the cap makes it any less efficient. The span from blade to guard is the same. The plane is changed and perhaps affects exposure more than anything. I don’t know if it’s an accurate example of a smaller gap per say.

I've no interest in LESS....pffft

Shouldn’t the shim go on the base plate so as to raise the distance from the blade to safety bar?

Correct.  The picture is top cap, blade, shim.  Then the baseplate goes on.  The WR1 head is no where near as easy to load.

I'm not sure where I confused you'uns about loading the shim.  Here is a quote from a Sharpologist article.  Hope he doesn't mind me copying.  A quick google search will garner far more better sources of info than me.  I didn't come up with the idea...just telling you how I did it...and that the WR1 and WR2 heads seem to handle the modification very well.

Good News: Some Razors’ Aggressiveness Can Be Tuned To Suit

If you have a two-piece or three-piece DE that is not quite right for you – either too aggressive or not aggressive enough – [b]you can easily customize its shave character.[/b] TTO razors, because of their fixed space designed to clamp the blade in place, are less amenable to aggression tuning beyond any adjustability intended by the manufacturers.
The simplest method for tuning razor aggression is to use a [b]shim[/b]. A shim is a DE blade that has had the cutting edges trimmed off using scissors.
[b]A shim placed between the razor’s cutting blade and the baseplate will make the razor more aggressive. A shim between the cutting blade and the top cap will make the razor less aggressive.[/b]
If one shim isn’t sufficient to tune your razor, a second one may be added for more extreme adjustments.

Sorry I was making an assumption on that picture that there was a shim under the blade( which would have put the shim between the top cap and the blade) but I could not see it. And my lovely Google voice to text put it down as Jim, not shim.lol perfectly clear on the glue spots to I can see where glue spots will help hold things together while you trace. Thanks for the clarification.

Sorry I was making an assumption on that picture that there was a shim under the blade( which would have put the shim between the top cap and the blade) but I could not see it. And my lovely Google voice to text put it down as Jim, not shim.lol perfectly clear on the glue spots to I can see where glue spots will help hold things together while you trace. Thanks for the clarification.

My pleasure. I coulda dona a little better job explaining. The "peanut" shim is clear, but it's there on top of the blade in the picture. If you decide to shim, share your experiences with the class, please.

Sorry I was making an assumption on that picture that there was a shim under the blade( which would have put the shim between the top cap and the blade) but I could not see it. And my lovely Google voice to text put it down as Jim, not shim.lol perfectly clear on the glue spots to I can see where glue spots will help hold things together while you trace. Thanks for the clarification.

My pleasure.  I coulda dona a little better job explaining.  The "peanut" shim is clear, but it's there on top of the blade in the picture.  If you decide to shim, share your experiences with the class, please.

Oh my phone with a small screen I guess I'm not seeing the clear "peanut"shim. I'll have to check it out on a bigger screen when I get home.  Thank you for the information and pictures, teacher,lol. When I get around to I'll share with the class. I also found a Douglas Smythe video making shims, on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/xWnJ18hVDDQ

WR2 1.55 + Shim!
If you need that kind of efficiency, just remove the base plate, like what the shavers were doing in mid 1900s.

WR2 1.55 + Shim!
If you need that kind of efficiency, just remove the base plate, like what the shavers were doing in mid 1900s. 

or just use a Shavette, I guess?

I agree. Get a Feather AC folding or non folding.

WR2 1.55 + Shim!
If you need that kind of efficiency, just remove the base plate, like what the shavers were doing in mid 1900s. 

I don't know I guess if you want to shim your razor go for it whatever the gap, sounds like a cheap way to check things out. It's all fun and games until somebody gets hurt, as they say.
  That sounds pretty wild, removing the base plate.lol.

Very excited to use my approximately 3.5mm gap WR-2 tonight. Shave report later.

SOTD - October 03, 2019
Razor - Wolfman WR-2 1.15SB + 1/2/3 M5 nylon washer as shim
Soap - Wickham Le Bleu
Brush - Plisson
Blade - Personna Red

First Pass - 3 nylon shims.

The razor is very loud this way, kinda scrappy, quite a bit of blade chatter. But not really uncomfortable, the raw blade feel is unmistakable. No cuts or nicks, shave was definitely closer than regular 1.15SB.



Second Pass - 2 Nylon Shims

Still really loud audible feedback. I didn't notice any tugging or pulling, no discomfort either. But significantly less chatter than first pass.




Third pass - only one shim

I had to do a third pass as there was still whiskers left in my neck. Now this seems like normal, middle of the road aggressive razor. A lot less audible feedback, surprisingly smooth going ATG. A very close shave at the end, but still not 100% BBS - skipped buffing today.




Overall, I am really happy with the experiment. I can totally see why people are going for higher gap wolfmans. If I am in a hurry and can't do 3+ passes or my hand I coordination becomes worse with age, I can totally see myself using super aggressive WR-2s. For now, I will wait for 1.25SB.

Really pleased with the washers. Razors wasn't bad either.

For reference, this is a regular WR-2