Wolfman WR2 Head Discussion

Or........Beyond the shims........
Maybe there's a market for an adjustable Wolfman?
Wr4x4?

Any takers?.......

Yeah... Just buy 4 Different Gap Heads! If he Sold Them Separately!

Tony

Love to see what these plastic shims look like

Absolutely.

The .4mm  shim came from packaging material for chocolate covered peanuts (don't judge me). 

As if I needed another reason to buy chocolate covered peanuts

Consider your arm adequately twisted.

Re: Shims

<snip>

I like it!! So what did you do just took some calipers and started checking the plastic you can find, for the thickness? I've got a new set of cheap calipers just waiting for some plastic, lol. I could take my .74 OC WR1 and give it the old plastic shim bump up, yes!

A picture is worth 1000 words.  Tools, completed .66mm WR2 shim and the blank I used, .40mm "peanut" shim inside the head.  It's a pretty simple process.  I used a Feather to trace, I finally found a positive use for the effen glue!

Haha...without the red sharpie that feather blade might tell a different story.

Love to see what these plastic shims look like

Absolutely.

The .4mm  shim came from packaging material for chocolate covered peanuts (don't judge me). 

As if I needed another reason to buy chocolate covered peanuts

Consider your arm adequately twisted.

Re: Shims

<snip>

I like it!! So what did you do just took some calipers and started checking the plastic you can find, for the thickness? I've got a new set of cheap calipers just waiting for some plastic, lol. I could take my .74 OC WR1 and give it the old plastic shim bump up, yes!

A picture is worth 1000 words.  Tools, completed .66mm WR2 shim and the blank I used, .40mm "peanut" shim inside the head.  It's a pretty simple process.  I used a Feather to trace, I finally found a positive use for the effen glue!

Okay I'm with you, and I see this shim goes between the blade and the top cap. I'm lost out here looking for the glue part.

Shouldn’t the shim go on the base plate so as to raise the distance from the blade to safety bar?

[/quote]
Okay I'm with you, and I see this Jim goes between the blade and the top cap. I'm lost out here looking for the glue part.
[/quote]

The shim goes between the blade and base plate to increase efficiency. Placing it between top cap and blade reduces efficiency.

The glue I was referencing was the glue dots. When you place a Feather on the plastic to trace it, the glue holds it in place. A glueless blade tends to slip around on the plastic.

Shouldn’t the shim go on the base plate so as to raise the distance from the blade to safety bar?

+1

Shouldn’t the shim go on the base plate so as to raise the distance from the blade to safety bar?

Correct. The picture is top cap, blade, shim. Then the baseplate goes on. The WR1 head is no where near as easy to load.

I'm not sure where I confused you'uns about loading the shim.  Here is a quote from a Sharpologist article.  Hope he doesn't mind me copying.  A quick google search will garner far more better sources of info than me.  I didn't come up with the idea...just telling you how I did it...and that the WR1 and WR2 heads seem to handle the modification very well.

Good News: Some Razors’ Aggressiveness Can Be Tuned To Suit

If you have a two-piece or three-piece DE that is not quite right for you – either too aggressive or not aggressive enough – [b]you can easily customize its shave character.[/b] TTO razors, because of their fixed space designed to clamp the blade in place, are less amenable to aggression tuning beyond any adjustability intended by the manufacturers.
The simplest method for tuning razor aggression is to use a [b]shim[/b]. A shim is a DE blade that has had the cutting edges trimmed off using scissors.
[b]A shim placed between the razor’s cutting blade and the baseplate will make the razor more aggressive. A shim between the cutting blade and the top cap will make the razor less aggressive.[/b]
If one shim isn’t sufficient to tune your razor, a second one may be added for more extreme adjustments.

The shim on the baseplate to make it more aggressive is basic and quite obvious. I’m not sure if I understand how shimming the cap makes it any less efficient. The span from blade to guard is the same. The plane is changed and perhaps affects exposure more than anything. I don’t know if it’s an accurate example of a smaller gap per say.