#1

Member
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 05-20-2020, 05:56 PM by DanLaw.)
Haircut & Shave has been very busy over the past year designing and releasing new razors setting ever-higher standards for quality and innovation at unexpectedly low prices.  Aji Sunjaya is the owner and driving force behind H&S, bringing a philosophy emphasizing comfortable shaving attributes with efficiency far beyond what would normally be associated with those levels of comfort.  Prior to entering the shaving hardware business, Aji had been in the men’s grooming business for 19 years and has owned/operated a couple barbershops in Eastern Maryland for the past decade.  Although very successful in his core business, he has decided to use his experience and resources to reverse the trend of increasingly higher quality razors appealing only to those with incredibly deep pockets.  In the year and a half since releasing the N075Al DE razor (in my estimation the finest shaving mild razor available at any price) he has gone on to release the P076 17-4 razor (so well executed it is available as an Open Comb and Straight Bar, far exceeding the quality and shave characteristics of the only other such razor on the market) and is about to release what I wholeheartedly believe is the absolute best built titanium razor ever made (including that from the manufacturer whose razors are universally considered the standard of perfection).
 
I have reviewed both the N075 and P076 17-4 prior to initiating passarounds, giving them stellar reviews with exhaustingly detailed metrics of the geometries and dimensions; for the P076Ti am going to take a different tact.  As the dimensions of the P076Ti are identical to the P076 17-4 and the sole difference is in the underlying material, this review will focus on the manufacturing perfection of the razor and comparing it in side-by-side shaves to the characteristics of the N075Al and P076 17-4; finally, the finish will be compared to a high polish Wolfman WR1 SS.  For those unfamiliar with my P076 17-4 review, it can be accessed thru https://damnfineshave.com/thread-haircut-shave-p076-sb-oc-passaround-review-–-world-class-artisanal-craftsmanship where one will find all the dimensional details typically associated with my reviews there.
 
Packaging is an extensively covered subject in previous H&S reviews, nonetheless it deserving of attention.  Varying widely amongst the boutique manufacturers of high-end razors, packaging reflects the backgrounds and values of the people involved.  Everything from cardboard boxes to beautifully crafted niche market jewelry quality boxes have been encountered with absolutely no correlation to the manufacturing quality of the razor.  I am of mixed perspective in this regard having come from an industry dealing with machine shop craftsmen on a regular basis, receiving repurposed cardboard shipping boxes filled with thousands of dollars’ worth of carefully crafted parts.  In the particular case of H&S, the razors are nicely packaged in the tool & die and military contractor’s favourite, blow molded plastic case.  It is fitting that an artisan handcrafted razor manufacturer would utilize such a container given their familiarity with measuring instruments so protected in cases constructed of this material or wood.  Certainly, this is no insult to very highly regarded craftsmen providing outstanding razors and brushes of extraordinary quality and beauty delivered in cardboard boxes but it does elevate the game, suggesting that the manufacturer views the product as much a precision instrument as a machined product.  Packaging does make a statement of self-image, immediately discernable subconsciously if not consciously.  Opening the case reveals beautifully cut and dense padding securing the razor and a possible alternative head assembly with slit for blades or other ancillaries.  A beautifully logoed microfiber cloth covers the razor, as is de rigeur these days for high-end razors.
 
Upon opening the blow mold boxes, the eyes are greeted by the best-finished razors of any manufacturer using any metal encountered - period - hard stop.  It is impossible to overstate the polish quality on the H&S P076Ti razor, it even exceeds Wolfman SS Mirror Finish standards, which are so head and shoulders above the rest of the market that the delta to the next best industry polished finish is as though dealing with a brushed finish.  To those disputing that anybody can match, let alone exceed Wolfman’s incredibly high standards, view the included side-by-side photos of one of my Wolfman WR1 SS so finished; bear in mind Wolfman has balked on doing mirror polish titanium due to the difficulty of getting the results to his standards.  Dedicated DuFour fans, of which I am one, please do not take this as an insult for remain a 4 Wolfman owner being the only DE razors in my possession with no intention of ever selling.  The reality is that H&S has found a way to build razors to Wolfman standards, the only other such manufacturer on the market at the moment, NOT that Wolfman’s quality has decreased in any way.  To demonstrate the advances H&S has made, compare the side-by-side photos with P076 17-4: the polish is actually of a higher grade!  What is more amazing, to the point of defying logic, is how this quality is being sold at such low prices.
 
Handling the P076Ti is, as with all titanium razors, a lovely experience.  The weight is feather light at 63g for SB and 60g for OC/DC, the feel cool to the touch but not clinically distant and the satisfaction resulting from these two qualities is intoxicating.  Being raised by a Russian émigré of Asian descent results in a soulful lust for anything made of titanium: exhaust? Good God gotta have it, here’s my $5.000: pegs for a race bike that will likely break on the first fall whilst saving zero weight? THAT will get me on the podium, here’s my $700: safety harness using Ti connectors having absolutely zero added safety benefit over SS?  A must have, here’s my $1.000…needless to state, have been a sucker for titanium all my life.  Aside from the incredible industry standard polish that separates the P076Ti from competitors, is the subtlety of the execution of the handle curvatures and head assembly edges (including Open Comb teeth); particularly noteworthy is the handle knurling which is so perfectly executed that one hardly notices it other than the astounding grip.  The machining is executed to Wolfman standards, which could not be higher even for aerospace or motorsports custom-built usage.  BUT, and am ready for incoming vitriol for being heterodoxic if not heretical, I had never encountered a titanium razor shaving to the standard of its stainless steel counterpart, including Wolfman and numerous other high end titanium razors bought and immediately sold over the years.  Thus, it was with resignation that, while marveling at the sheer beauty of the P076Ti, I dreaded having the illusion broken by the reality of the shave to follow, akin to the disappointment of finally securing that intimate moment with the IT girl of the moment and finding her a lousy lover.
 
Loading the supplied Nacets into the P076Ti was nearly a religious experience; contrary to many new designs, the head assembly is paper thin thereby making it incredibly maneuverable and visually controllable.  The razor is polished throughout – as in everywhere, under the cap, top of the baseplate, the threads – EVERYWHERE and to a standard even higher than its P076 17-4 counterpart!  It is as though the person doing the machine work actually gave a damn, a real damn as in this is a gift for his father or only son – have only encountered 2 other manufacturers to date so obsessed with visual perfection: Wolfman and Raw, neither being anywhere near the price point of the H&S.  Were there an area for reasonable debate, it would be that the blade tabs are covered: surely, one can appreciate the aesthetique behind this but given the choice, prefer them exposed for easy removal of the blade during cleaning.  Frankly, Aji could and SHOULD increase the proposed selling price by a factor plus – this is a big boy industry standard razor the equal of Wolfman that deserves a big boy price.
 
Ethos supplied 2 tubs of their latest soaps: Success (Pineapple Noir) and Clean (Unscented) for this passaround.  Folk, there is a new standard in town; it doesn’t mean the others soaps got worse nor that the second best soap now is terrible as it is still head and shoulders above its competitors BUT no soap out there performs like Ethos.  It lathers so easily that if one contemplates retrieving a brush the beautifully executed jar literally explodes in volcanic flowing of lather.  The quality of the lather is the densest, most cushioned ever experienced by a country mile yet manages to be light on the face.  The glide and residual slickness are right there with the absolute best soaps that have sacrificed cushion and density for glide and the post shave is as though using serum and balm without having to go to the trouble.  For the first time in my entire life, from straight edges to electric razors and all forms of shaving in between, shaved continuously without once experiencing post shave redness on the neck.  The price is high at $36 and $34 respectively but it is sold in 7Oz containers so cost per weight is squarely in line with the market – moreover, despite the “almond is all you need” mantra of the entire industry, this soap actually lathers 28mm knots sufficient for a 4 pass shave using a peanut sized dollop.  Continuing on the theme of packaging reflecting perceived quality, Ethos is packaged as though giving a damn; the jars ship boxed as though fine lingerie bagged at a boutique shop being bought as a present for that special girl.  The jar is beautifully made, if of a very high quality plastic with a metal top.  Passaround testers are truly blessed by the pairing of Ethos soap with the P076Ti razor.  Those unfamiliar with these soaps, please do use them and comment in your reviews but exercise the courtesy to scoop samples for loading and lathering OFF THE PUCK as this is a passaround and there is a flu outbreak – exercise discretion in considering your fellow shavers.
 
I used the P076Ti for 5 3-pass shaves in total: 3 in a vacuum, 1 side-by-side SB only with the N075Al and 1 side by side with the P076 17-4 SB & OC razors. All the shaves were 3-pass: first pass, Open Comb razor With the Grain: second pass, Straight Bar Against the Grain: and third pass, Straight Bar Across the Grain.
 
Lathered up for the first 3 3-pass shaves using the P076Ti in a vacuum with trepidation; could/would the tactile and visual beauty ever match the actual shaving experience or would I be let down again by yet another dead feeling titanium razor.  The last thing in the world desired was having to write a review minimizing the shaving qualities of a razor whilst emphasizing its cosmetics…argh….  Much to my pleasant surprise and joy, for the first time in years of shaving with titanium razors, felt the magic others describe.  In summary, the close efficient shave of the P076 17-4 is retained but with damn near the facial comfort of the N075Al – MAGIC!!  This is an absolutely lovely shaving razor; the OC is perfect for first passes on supersensitive skin and can even do an entire shave of such folk albeit skipping a day between shaves but when combined with SB for the remaining 2 passes, the shave is outstanding even for daily shavers.  Were there only sufficient funds for one of the P076Ti razors tested, would get the SB as it can handle multiple days growth first pass no issue even if the preference is always for OC followed by SB and can be used as a daily razor even by those with hyper sensitive skin.  However, the good news is that, for those so inclined, there is a DC version which 100% would be my preference. 
 
It is noteworthy that, as with most DE razors encountered, riding the cap: i.e., starting with the cap flat against the skin then rotating towards the bar/comb until the blade angle is optimal, IS THE PREFERRED TECHNIQUE for the P076 family of razors.  Those feeling the positive blade exposure too aggressive will immediately get excellent results riding the cap versus trying to maintain the traditional 30-degree angle. The result is a solid 36 hour BBS shave every time without irritation.  My relief and happiness cannot be measured as I wanted to love the P076Ti but feared another titanium let down.  This is another H&S razor staying in my rotation permanently.
 
It just so happened that both the other H&S razors: N075Al and P076 17-4, were in the Atlanta area. Being curious how the N075Al (which I regard as the best shaving mild razor on the market) and the brethren P076 in 17-4 stack up, endeavoured to round the H&S family up for reunion side-by-side shaves to clarify matters in my mind.  To be fair, only used the SB P076Ti against the N075Al and the results were surprising.  The P076Ti is within a hair of the comfort of the N075Al but much closer shaving with a BBS lasting an additional 12ish hours shaving half a face with each simultaneously to eliminate variables as much as possible; that would have seemed impossible upon reflection but there it is. Side-by-side shaves simultaneously pairing the 2 P076 metals reveal a very different character with identical results.  Both metals yield a 36 hour BBS shave but the perceived face feel is night and day.  In no circumstances could one claim the 17-4 a brainless shave, as its feedback aurally and tactilely is readily apparent whereas the Ti is smooth – not smooth without feedback but rather smooth whilst still delivering more than adequate feedback for enjoyment and guidance. 
 
It is hoped that people will read the previous paragraph carefully so as to understand that H&S does not make a razor family shaving to a particular style in different gaps and metals; rather, what Aji has done is provide a broad spectrum of mild to moderate efficient razors that shave completely differently despite sharing common visual ques.  The H&S design strategy is unencountered elsewhere and worthy of note; I find it brilliant but it is incumbent upon the buyer to purchase the right razor within that family for their beard, shaving preference and finances.  Aji accommodates the community of perspective buyers by circulating these razors for assessment and allowing me to manage the passaround maintaining neutrality in compiling feedback and perspective to share with the public.  It is incumbent upon us to take advantage of this opportunity not provided elsewhere at razors of this level.  Also incumbent upon us is squelching unsubstantiated rumours such as a one run and done release strategy to this Ti razor, which is patently untrue.  Per Aji, this as any project, will have an initial run of 50 razors that, if well received by the public, will be followed by future production runs…per Aji, I have the text reply.
 
My summation is simple regarding the products included in this passaround: these are the best 2 products of their type encountered in a lifetime of shaving – it really is that simple.  When items of such breakthrough significance by artisans having the vision and ability to make them reality are encountered, they deserve to be called out for being exceptional and so I did.  Shaving is not a hobby to me; rather, it is a chore that given an opportunity would happily be abandoned.  These products make a terrible burden better than any others I have used in a decade of experimenting with what are considered the best products available globally.  Whereas the H&S P076 17-4 is akin to driving an old midengine Ferrari 246 or 355 or Porsche 993 – it does exactly what is wanted without punishing terribly for mistakes and the N075Al is akin to driving a Porsche 996/7 or Ferrari Italia – it makes you perform better than ever imagined without punishing mistakes, the P076Ti is a Lamborghini Huracan – providing the thrills with margin of error protection of a Ferrari Italia but retaining some of the fun feedback of the Ferrari 355.
 
However, H&S faces a dilemma; at some point the price needs raised to reflect the industry leading design and execution of world class USA production using expensive to machine metals.  Truth told, the same could be stated of Ethos; a supreme product utilizing relatively expensive ingredients, premium packaging and of such competitive advantage that it deserves a premium price point.  Less critical but still of importance, H&S needs develop a suitably simplistically stylistic stand to complement these razors.

[Image: uk3GYGi.jpg]

[Image: b90thOt.jpg]

[Image: vyCkeR6.jpg]

[Image: gGIRNN7.jpg]

[Image: iaLlwWY.jpg]

[Image: EhgvvQc.jpg]

[Image: Oa8urOi.jpg]

[Image: 11Uz6Vd.jpg]

[Image: XVtVgdp.jpg]

[Image: oDMpud5.jpg]

[Image: iXBiQ44.jpg]

[Image: h1pShrD.jpg]

[Image: ogpo6Ug.jpg]

zaclikestoshave, ehsa, Darktrader and 5 others like this post
Just an old slow fat man
#2

It's sharp and it cuts. I like it...
Northeast, USA
(This post was last modified: 05-20-2020, 08:48 PM by GlazedBoker.)
Solid, solid summation. Aesthetically pleasing & candy to ones eye yet, per the reviews equally productive in its intended purpose. Remove the whiskers effortlessly with authoritative precision & smoothness. Yes, the H&S Ti has my name on it. And yes I do agree with your sentiment that he should adjust pricing accordingly for what is being offered. As presented, I respectfully state that H&S has vastly undervalued their premium products....

DanLaw, Darktrader, ExtraProtein and 1 others like this post
#3
I would like to know the price before I say it is undervalued. I have been very happy with the build and shave quality of my polished SS version of the NO75 and I agree Aji is producing some beautiful razors that for me is a wonderful shaver.

shaveSymptomatic, ExtraProtein, Dragonsbeard and 2 others like this post
#4

Member
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 05-21-2020, 08:43 AM by DanLaw.)
The proposed price without being set firmly and finally is $400. Before commenting, review the photos next to a SS razor costing $650 (@$550 High Polish without custom work) and waiting half a year minimum to acquire Or alternatively a basic brushed finish Ti razor costing $470, unavailable (maybe forever), taking months to acquire when available and according to posts from those acquiring in past never to be available again in high polish. Context is important

CK89 and Shavemd like this post
Just an old slow fat man
#5
I am not thinking it is undervalued, since I am going to get either Carbon Ti '++' ($350) or H&S Ti P076 ($400).
Both are well polished Ti razors.
I tried Carbon SS '++' in DFS Pass-around, really like it, and I will try H&S.
I will get which one gives me better shave.

shaveSymptomatic likes this post
#6

Member
Southern US
(05-21-2020, 12:04 AM)DanLaw Wrote: The proposed price without being set firmly and finally is $400.  Before commenting, review the photos next to a SS razor costing $650 and waiting half a year minimum to acquire  Or alternatively a basic brushed finish Ti razor costing $470, unavailable (maybe forever) and taking months to acquire when available.  Context is important
What razor are you referring to? The most expensive SS Wolfman configuration - with mirror polished head and handle - is $538 USD. The basic polished is $287.

vicstarrr likes this post
#7
(05-21-2020, 04:08 AM)Whisk-her Away Wrote:
(05-21-2020, 12:04 AM)DanLaw Wrote: The proposed price without being set firmly and finally is $400.  Before commenting, review the photos next to a SS razor costing $650 and waiting half a year minimum to acquire  Or alternatively a basic brushed finish Ti razor costing $470, unavailable (maybe forever) and taking months to acquire when available.  Context is important
What razor are you referring to? The most expensive SS Wolfman configuration - with mirror polished head and handle - is $538 USD. The basic polished is $287.


Yes, I'm also confused as to what razor you are referring to. A mirror polished Wolfman isn't even 650 canadian dollars let alone 650 U.S. dollars. To me, 400 sounds to be priced right around the competition honestly.

LOOT likes this post
#8

Member
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 05-21-2020, 08:46 AM by DanLaw.)
That particular razor also has some additional configuration that ran more.  

But you need recheck your figures if thinking it possible to acquire a fully polished WR1 for less than $750C using the build sheet; if you want a standard issue from menu options WR1 fully polished the price is $750C: $250 Head, $200 High Polish, $150 Handle, $150 High Polish, essentially @$550US given dollar exchange at any moment

LOOT likes this post
Just an old slow fat man
#9
(This post was last modified: 05-21-2020, 12:06 PM by AQU.)
Karve titanium, while not polished and it may never even come to fruition, will cost 350CAD and 250USD. I don’t think it’s even in the same league appearance wise as the H&S, but if we’re talking value for a tool...

LOOT likes this post
#10

It's sharp and it cuts. I like it...
Northeast, USA
I don't know but, I'd have to agree with DanLaw here on this one. I mean, a Wolfman in the same Ti alloy with Jame's impeccable finish work would be pushing the price boundaries way past the $600. And many, many here wouldn't even think twice about spending that kind of green on his razors. Besides, he's earned that status at what many consider to be the bar for a luxury performing work of art in the razor domain.

I don't begrudge anyone from producing a product that is damn near custom in finish & craftsmanship and them charging a pretty penny for the quality, time & effort put into said produced product. H&S seems to be putting that same amount of passion, effort, time including ingenuity though subtle, is making it their own with the slight shaving differences that each razor produces in specific alloys to appease this ever growing niche market.

Not that far back, we were outraged in a general consensus that razors over $100 were ludicrous and only fools would entertain such an acquisition/expenditure. I'd even like to remind some here that James at Wolfman was offering his razor much lower 2 years ago than the current rate and many agreed that his razors were undervalued at the time. He increased the price substantially and yet, no one blinks an eye and still he has a wait list in the hundreds every year since said change.

We do the same things in life with our everyday purchases (excluding the present situation of course) with our autos (that Benz, Beemer, Audi or Caddy in our driveways), homes and various other purchases. There's a premium for the finer things that one desires to attain. We pay top dollar for the name, quality and yes, even exclusivity.

Bottom line is that the market will pay what the market will bare. I honestly believe that in the coming months, prices will go up out of sheer necessity to balance supply & demand. That Ti razor now potentially priced at $400 (not written in stone) can quite possibly be $500+ in the near future. Another thing is, they've also been selling out quite fast. With today's financial outlook and in the future,  that $400 might seem to look like a bargain.

So yes, I do believe that H&S has undervalued their range of razors. But, again I have been more wrong than right in my years of existence.....  Big Grin

Shavemd, LOOT, AQU and 1 others like this post


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)