'Ducks In A Row' Comparison Shave
JA Henckels Friodur 8/8
Grooming Dept Mallard Chai
Wolf Whiskers Cash Brush Black Wolf Knot
I got a new tub of the Grooming Dept Mallard Chai last week, as it’s one of my favorite scents and a wonderful performer. I noticed that there were some differences in the ingredients, so I thought I’d do a comparison shave to see if there was a difference.
I used 2 Wolf Whiskers brushes with the same Black Wolf knot, same loft and diameter, only difference was the handle. Used the new formulation on the left side of the face and the older on the right. Loaded each for the same amount of time.
I know there have been some comments about how much experimenting Mohammad does with his bases, and some wonder if it’s worth it.
In this case, it was.
Don’t get me wrong-the ‘old’ base was very, very good. Easy to lather, good glide, good cushion, fantastic post-shave feel.
When there’s an excellent product in any market, the incremental improvements are always challenging. For you golfers out there, you know that it’s easier to go from an 18 handicap to a 15 than it is to go from a 3 handicap to a scratch player.
The new formulation is also easy to lather, and like the old formulation, can stand up to several additions of water without breaking down. The lather on the new formulation was a bit glossier and had slightly better ‘structure’. They both had excellent ‘glide’, with the edge going to the new formulation, but only by a tiny bit.
The 3-pass shave was excellent with both soaps, comfortable and close. Where I noticed a difference was after the shave.
With a soap with good ingredients like these, I like to put the left over soap on my face while I clean and strop the razor and tidy up. I did notice that the new formulation stayed intact, looking just as it did while I was shaving. The old formulation seemed to dry out visually.
However, on rinsing the face, the post-shave was excellent on both sides, again with a slight edge going to the new formulation. (By the way, Mohammad’s tip of not drying the face with a towel after rinsing, but letting the water dry naturally is spot on).
The new formulation felt slightly more moisturized. Both sides felt supple and smooth, and I didn’t need to put on any further after shave products. (I usually do, because it’s so dry here in the desert). But for the sake of this experiment, I put on nothing more. Checking in about 6 hours later, the improvement in moisturizing and suppleness remained, with the edge going to the newer formulation.
I’m speculating here, but I noticed when comparing the ingredients that the new formulation has added Aloe Vera, Abyssinian Oil, and Vitamin E. It also looks like, from the order of ingredients, that the amount of Babassu Oil has been increased.
In my opinion, the new formulation puts this soap squarely in my top tier of tallow soaps.
Mallard Chai New Formulation Ingredients:
Stearic Acid,
Aloe Vera, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Duck Fat,
Babassu Oil, Castor Oil, Cupuacu Butter, Kokum Butter, Meadowfoam Oil, Jojoba Oil,
Abyssinian Oil, Fragrance, Silk Peptides, Glycerin, Sunflower Lecithin, Goat Milk, Sucrose Cocoate, Carnauba wax, Kaolin Clay, Calendula Extract, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate and
Vitamin E.
Mallard Chai Old Formulation Ingredients:
Stearic Acid, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Duck Fat, Castor Oil, Cupuacu Butter, Kokum Butter, Glycerine, Meadowfoam Oil, Jojoba Oil, Fragrance, Hydrolyzed Silk Protein,
Babassu Oil, Sucrose Cocoate, Kaolin Clay, Calendula Extract, Sodium Lactate