Experiment #4 with hard water and Mystic Water soap

Thanks, Celestino. I am going to try the 830 with MW again in the next few days. I do use the circular motion in the bowl, but next time I will try the back and forth painting motion in the bowl that you described. I am still a little bit unclear about how much water this soap likes. You indicate that it is a thirsty soap, but then Primotenore chimed in and seemed to suggest that it is easy to overload with water. This confuses me a little bit. And Celestino, if I may ask, how broken in is your 830 brush? Is it really floppy (which is how mine is), or does it still have some residual backbone in it? I ask b/c I want to see if I can eliminate that brush's ability to pick up sufficient pasty protolather as a factor.

Thanks, Celestino. I am going to try the 830 with MW again in the next few days. I do use the circular motion in the bowl, but next time I will try the back and forth painting motion in the bowl that you described. I am still a little bit unclear about how much water this soap likes. You indicate that it is a thirsty soap, but then Primotenore chimed in and seemed to suggest that it is easy to overload with water. This confuses me a little bit. And Celestino, if I may ask, how broken in is your 830 brush? Is it really floppy (which is how mine is), or does it still have some residual backbone in it? I ask b/c I want to see if I can eliminate that brush's ability to pick up sufficient pasty protolather as a factor.

Clarification: MW can be overloaded with water IF too much is added too soon. Once the Proto-lather is established, MW will readily absorb a fair amount of H2o. BUT, like any emulsification, it must be added gradually.

Clarification: MW can be overloaded with water IF too much is added too soon. Once the Proto-lather is established, MW will readily absorb a fair amount of H2o. BUT, like any emulsification, it must be added gradually.

I find this the key. I start with a well soaked brush but shake or squeeze out most all of the water leaving it damp. When using off the puck, I load it as Primo decribed. In fact I likely overload it. Then add water slowly as I face lather.

My preferred method for using MW soaps is from a shave stick. I find this easier for me to get the right amount of soap. Plus as celestino often say's "I get to spend more time with the brush on my face"

Thanks, Celestino. I am going to try the 830 with MW again in the next few days. I do use the circular motion in the bowl, but next time I will try the back and forth painting motion in the bowl that you described. I am still a little bit unclear about how much water this soap likes. You indicate that it is a thirsty soap, but then Primotenore chimed in and seemed to suggest that it is easy to overload with water. This confuses me a little bit. And Celestino, if I may ask, how broken in is your 830 brush? Is it really floppy (which is how mine is), or does it still have some residual backbone in it? I ask b/c I want to see if I can eliminate that brush's ability to pick up sufficient pasty protolather as a factor.

Clarification: MW can be overloaded with water IF too much is added too soon. Once the Proto-lather is established, MW will readily absorb a fair amount of H2o. BUT, like any emulsification, it must be added gradually.

This is great advice you can't just go slopping water into it!

I find this the key.  I start with a well soaked brush but shake or squeeze out most all of the water leaving it damp.  When using off the puck, I load it as Primo decribed.  In fact I likely overload it.  Then add water slowly as I face lather.

My preferred method for using MW soaps is from a shave stick.  I find this easier for me to get the right amount of soap.  Plus as celestino often say's "I get to spend more time with the brush on my face"

Thanks, Celestino. I am going to try the 830 with MW again in the next few days. I do use the circular motion in the bowl, but next time I will try the back and forth painting motion in the bowl that you described. I am still a little bit unclear about how much water this soap likes. You indicate that it is a thirsty soap, but then Primotenore chimed in and seemed to suggest that it is easy to overload with water. This confuses me a little bit. And Celestino, if I may ask, how broken in is your 830 brush? Is it really floppy (which is how mine is), or does it still have some residual backbone in it? I ask b/c I want to see if I can eliminate that brush's ability to pick up sufficient pasty protolather as a factor.

My 830 is well-broken in. I guess I would describe it as 'floppy' compared to most of my 2-Band badger brushes, but I have no issues picking up soap with it when I use a puck of soap.

As 'Primo' has stated, use enough water, but add it slowly. Again, this is a very, very thirsty soap, and similar to Mike's and B&M, in my opinion.
Start with a damp brush, but add water slowly, but often. Make sure you always get a pasty proto-lather while loading and try loading a bit firmer and longer than usual to see if this remedies your problem.

Good luck and you can contact me, personally, if you want to show you how I do this via Skype, if you would like.
I am more than willing to help you resolve this issue.

Gentlemen, many thanks for the sage advice and clarification. I have my marching orders and will report back in a few days after I have another go at MW with the 830 boar.

Just as a follow up to my previous post, I tried the Marco (wet brush) method this morning with my MW Teakwood and Cardamom and the results were not good. Very thin, watery lather that never developed. I had to start over! I guess I was doing it right all along and must be the reason why I could never understand why people were having issues lathering this soap. As everybody already said in their excellent responses, MW is thirsty, but don't add too much water too fast.

Thanks for sharing that lesson, WyzeOne. I am definitely gonna stay away from the Marco method with this soap.

Personally, I have never liked the idea of the Marco method as I much prefer to have more control of the amount of water that I add to my soaps and I find starting with a damp brush much easier and more efficient.
Nonetheless, if the Marco method works for folks, then that is fantastic and they should continue with what works for them.