#1,671

Administrator
Philadelphia, PA
hmn, I might have to see if I can find a sample of hallows somewhere...
Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito.
#1,672

Maker of Soaps and Shaver of Men
Cooperstown, NY, USA
(10-07-2016, 07:18 PM)Marko Wrote: Will, I noticed a SOTD today that featured B&M Fougere Aromatique in a green translucent tub with a "different" label.  When was this version released and is it any different (i.e. is it glissant?) than my original white tub Fougere Aromatique?

Also and update for Canadian members that Menessentials is sold out of both Cool and Classic in the Barrister's Reserve leaving only Spice in stock.

Thanks,
Mark

It was the final release, conducted last year. It was not different, no. Smile
“You could leave life right now. Let that determine what you do and say and think.” – Marcus Aurelius

Fine grooming products at Barrister and Mann.  Smile www.barristerandmann.com
#1,673

Posting Freak
(10-08-2016, 02:26 AM)Barrister_N_Mann Wrote:
(10-07-2016, 07:18 PM)Marko Wrote: Will, I noticed a SOTD today that featured B&M Fougere Aromatique in a green translucent tub with a "different" label.  When was this version released and is it any different (i.e. is it glissant?) than my original white tub Fougere Aromatique?

Also and update for Canadian members that Menessentials is sold out of both Cool and Classic in the Barrister's Reserve leaving only Spice in stock.

Thanks,
Mark

It was the final release, conducted last year. It was not different, no. Smile

Cool container and label though - although I still really like the classic white tubs. I'm looking forward to this year's especially creepy Hallows label.
#1,674
(10-07-2016, 09:36 PM)celestino Wrote:
(10-07-2016, 08:48 PM)lu20vt Wrote: Can't wait for my Hallows,  after 3 years trying buy  Big Grin

Joder, tienes una gran paciencia, mi amigo!  Big Grin

Big Grin


(10-07-2016, 10:48 PM)Marko Wrote:
(10-07-2016, 08:48 PM)lu20vt Wrote: Can't wait for my Hallows,  after 3 years trying buy  Big Grin

You won't be disappointed, and in glissant no less.  It just keeps getting better. Smile  I missed out last year but had a tub from the year before that I've been rationing and its now down to the ring around the edge so this release is coming just in time.  I'm getting 2 tubs, no more rationing for me!
Mark

Thanks!
Luis
#1,675
How long will lavithan be available?
#1,676

Maker of Soaps and Shaver of Men
Cooperstown, NY, USA
(10-09-2016, 01:52 AM)Chaddy Wrote: How long will lavithan be available?

Until the end of December.
“You could leave life right now. Let that determine what you do and say and think.” – Marcus Aurelius

Fine grooming products at Barrister and Mann.  Smile www.barristerandmann.com
#1,677
Will, speaking of Leviathan. I get the mythological picture painted, but I'm curious what the inspiration was for the combination of leather, coffee and sandalwood.

I shaved with it today for the first time. Another great, unusual scent. Definitely a cold weather scent. Not a daily driver. Special occasions Smile
#1,678

Maker of Soaps and Shaver of Men
Cooperstown, NY, USA
(This post was last modified: 10-09-2016, 04:02 AM by Barrister_N_Mann.)
(10-09-2016, 02:37 AM)Red Tipped Cobra Wrote: Will, speaking of Leviathan. I get the mythological picture painted, but I'm curious what the inspiration was for the combination of leather, coffee and sandalwood.

I shaved with it today for the first time. Another great, unusual scent. Definitely a cold weather scent. Not a daily driver. Special occasions Smile

*grin* Okay, you're really going to think me insane, and probably be pretty grossed out, but bear with me.

Coffee contains a striking quantity of the compound skatole, which is one of the molecules that makes feces smell so charmingly pungent. When I was a kid, I realized that coffee and fresh dog poop actually smell pretty similar. Obviously they're different, but there's a distinct similarity between the two substances. Chemistry, as I mentioned, bears this out.

When leather tanning was perfected in Russia, a specific offshoot was developed by the monks of various orders in order to preserve the books in their monastery libraries. Since they found that books bound in leather (the cheapest, most durable, and most readily available book binding material) tended to attract parasites and mites, they began tanning the leather using birch smoke tinctures, which they found repelled insects. This is what gives the leather its distinct smoky character, and was the basis for the various Russian leather perfumes that have been developed over the course of the last century.

HOWEVER, in early leather tanning methods (not just Russian ones), there was another important ingredient as well: animal feces. Very old leather has a distinctly primal, animal character to it as a result of this inclusion, and old Russian leathers, especially those used in book binding, are no different. It's not enough to be offensive, but it is DEFINITELY enough to be identifiable, and is replicated in Russian leather accords with the use of castoreum (which smells like beaver musk) and civet (which smells like, well, poop). So Russian leather perfumes often have an underlying slightly fecal character that lends them a velvety, musky scent profile. It seemed obvious that the complimentary characteristics of a good coffee fragrance, which contains TINY amounts of skatole, and a good Russian leather accord, which contains tiny amounts of civet, would be perfect for marriage in a soap.

I had also been inspired by a sample of MPG Santal Noble I had received from @"uncle_dubya". It's a brilliant work, a marriage of coffee and sandalwood, and arguably one of the greatest reference sandalwood perfumes of all time. While musing on the combination of coffee and Russian leather, it occurred to me that a really fine or unusual sandalwood accord could be used to smooth out whatever rough-and-tumble, angular edges might arise as a result of the assemblage. I chose a distinctly strange sandalwood for the purpose (which, in fact, only remotely resembles real sandalwood), but the sweetness of the design tempered the rough, feral edges of the coffee/leather combination.

Thus, Leviathan was born. Smile
“You could leave life right now. Let that determine what you do and say and think.” – Marcus Aurelius

Fine grooming products at Barrister and Mann.  Smile www.barristerandmann.com
#1,679
(10-09-2016, 04:01 AM)Barrister_N_Mann Wrote:
(10-09-2016, 02:37 AM)Red Tipped Cobra Wrote: Will, speaking of Leviathan. I get the mythological picture painted, but I'm curious what the inspiration was for the combination of leather, coffee and sandalwood.

I shaved with it today for the first time. Another great, unusual scent. Definitely a cold weather scent. Not a daily driver. Special occasions Smile

*grin* Okay, you're really going to think me insane, and probably be pretty grossed out, but bear with me.

Coffee contains a striking quantity of the compound skatole, which is one of the molecules that makes feces smell so charmingly pungent. When I was a kid, I realized that coffee and fresh dog poop actually smell pretty similar. Obviously they're different, but there's a distinct similarity between the two substances. Chemistry, as I mentioned, bears this out.

When leather tanning was perfected in Russia, a specific offshoot was developed by the monks of various orders in order to preserve the books in their monastery libraries. Since they found that books bound in leather (the cheapest, most durable, and most readily available book binding material) tended to attract parasites and mites, they began tanning the leather using birch smoke tinctures, which they found repelled insects. This is what gives the leather its distinct smoky character, and was the basis for the various Russian leather perfumes that have been developed over the course of the last century.

HOWEVER, in early leather tanning methods (not just Russian ones), there was another important ingredient as well: animal feces. Very old leather has a distinctly primal, animal character to it as a result of this inclusion, and old Russian leathers, especially those used in book binding, are no different. It's not enough to be offensive, but it is DEFINITELY enough to be identifiable, and is replicated in Russian leather accords with the use of castoreum (which smells like beaver musk) and civet (which smells like, well, poop). So Russian leather perfumes often have an underlying slightly fecal character that lends them a velvety, musky scent profile. It seemed obvious that the complimentary characteristics of a good coffee fragrance, which contains TINY amounts of skatole, and a good Russian leather accord, which contains tiny amounts of civet, would be perfect for marriage in a soap.

I had also been inspired by a sample of MPG Santal Noble I had received from @"uncle_dubya". It's a brilliant work, a marriage of coffee and sandalwood, and arguably one of the greatest reference sandalwood perfumes of all time. While musing on the combination of coffee and Russian leather, it occurred to me that a really fine or unusual sandalwood accord could be used to smooth out whatever rough-and-tumble, angular edges might arise as a result of the assemblage. I chose a distinctly strange sandalwood for the purpose (which, in fact, only remotely resembles real sandalwood), but the sweetness of the design tempered the rough, feral edges of the coffee/leather combination.

Thus, Leviathan was born. Smile

That's was a *crappy* post. See what I did there???

In all seriousness. Awesome. If I could "love" a post, I would. These are the fascinating stories I appreciate hearing about how your scents come to be. You sir, should write a book sometime!
#1,680

Maker of Soaps and Shaver of Men
Cooperstown, NY, USA
(This post was last modified: 10-09-2016, 04:12 AM by Barrister_N_Mann.)
(10-09-2016, 04:09 AM)Red Tipped Cobra Wrote:
(10-09-2016, 04:01 AM)Barrister_N_Mann Wrote:
(10-09-2016, 02:37 AM)Red Tipped Cobra Wrote: Will, speaking of Leviathan. I get the mythological picture painted, but I'm curious what the inspiration was for the combination of leather, coffee and sandalwood.

I shaved with it today for the first time. Another great, unusual scent. Definitely a cold weather scent. Not a daily driver. Special occasions Smile

*grin* Okay, you're really going to think me insane, and probably be pretty grossed out, but bear with me.

Coffee contains a striking quantity of the compound skatole, which is one of the molecules that makes feces smell so charmingly pungent. When I was a kid, I realized that coffee and fresh dog poop actually smell pretty similar. Obviously they're different, but there's a distinct similarity between the two substances. Chemistry, as I mentioned, bears this out.

When leather tanning was perfected in Russia, a specific offshoot was developed by the monks of various orders in order to preserve the books in their monastery libraries. Since they found that books bound in leather (the cheapest, most durable, and most readily available book binding material) tended to attract parasites and mites, they began tanning the leather using birch smoke tinctures, which they found repelled insects. This is what gives the leather its distinct smoky character, and was the basis for the various Russian leather perfumes that have been developed over the course of the last century.

HOWEVER, in early leather tanning methods (not just Russian ones), there was another important ingredient as well: animal feces. Very old leather has a distinctly primal, animal character to it as a result of this inclusion, and old Russian leathers, especially those used in book binding, are no different. It's not enough to be offensive, but it is DEFINITELY enough to be identifiable, and is replicated in Russian leather accords with the use of castoreum (which smells like beaver musk) and civet (which smells like, well, poop). So Russian leather perfumes often have an underlying slightly fecal character that lends them a velvety, musky scent profile. It seemed obvious that the complimentary characteristics of a good coffee fragrance, which contains TINY amounts of skatole, and a good Russian leather accord, which contains tiny amounts of civet, would be perfect for marriage in a soap.

I had also been inspired by a sample of MPG Santal Noble I had received from @"uncle_dubya". It's a brilliant work, a marriage of coffee and sandalwood, and arguably one of the greatest reference sandalwood perfumes of all time. While musing on the combination of coffee and Russian leather, it occurred to me that a really fine or unusual sandalwood accord could be used to smooth out whatever rough-and-tumble, angular edges might arise as a result of the assemblage. I chose a distinctly strange sandalwood for the purpose (which, in fact, only remotely resembles real sandalwood), but the sweetness of the design tempered the rough, feral edges of the coffee/leather combination.

Thus, Leviathan was born. Smile

That's was a *crappy* post. See what I did there???

In all seriousness. Awesome. If I could "love" a post, I would. These are the fascinating stories I appreciate hearing about how your scents come to be. You sir, should write a book sometime!

I'm told that I'm very engaging when talking about perfume in person, so I've actually been thinking of starting a YouTube channel where I talk about perfume, perfume history, my scents, other people's scents, etc. Thank you very much for the kind words. Smile
“You could leave life right now. Let that determine what you do and say and think.” – Marcus Aurelius

Fine grooming products at Barrister and Mann.  Smile www.barristerandmann.com


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