I always tub load my soaps and Zingari is a soft soap not a croap but soft.
Mousse illumimee if you like green scents, coconut nanas if you like fruity ones and Master if you like bay rum. I have used MI and Master personally and they are too good. Sego base is one of the best bases around.
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Mousse illumimee if you like green scents, coconut nanas if you like fruity ones and Master if you like bay rum. I have used MI and Master personally and they are too good. Sego base is one of the best bases around.
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If you try loading many artisan soaps directly from the tub using a wet brush, it is easy to end up with a mushy soap.
My procedure is to pour 1 Tablespoon of hot water into the tub and the "bloom" the soap for no more than 10 seconds. I then pour the bloom water into my lather bowl. That loosens up the top layer of the soap without makngn the underlying soap mushy. After soaking my brush, I squeeze and shake out as much water as I can from the brush, leaving the brush slightly damp. I can then load the brush directly from the tub, swirling for about 10 seconds. I can then take the loaded brush to my lather bowl and whip up a nice lather in about 30 seconds. If you want to face lather, that is fine, just use the bloom water as a source of water for developing the lather.
I always leave the top off the soap until any moisture has evaporated. I never use the same soap two shaves in a row so the soap has time to dry out between shaves.
Hard pucks need a lot of moisture to make the soap usable. Thus. they seem to work best when you use them for every shave so they can remain moist between shaves. If you try to treat softer artisan soaps the same way, you end up with a mushy mess.
My procedure is to pour 1 Tablespoon of hot water into the tub and the "bloom" the soap for no more than 10 seconds. I then pour the bloom water into my lather bowl. That loosens up the top layer of the soap without makngn the underlying soap mushy. After soaking my brush, I squeeze and shake out as much water as I can from the brush, leaving the brush slightly damp. I can then load the brush directly from the tub, swirling for about 10 seconds. I can then take the loaded brush to my lather bowl and whip up a nice lather in about 30 seconds. If you want to face lather, that is fine, just use the bloom water as a source of water for developing the lather.
I always leave the top off the soap until any moisture has evaporated. I never use the same soap two shaves in a row so the soap has time to dry out between shaves.
Hard pucks need a lot of moisture to make the soap usable. Thus. they seem to work best when you use them for every shave so they can remain moist between shaves. If you try to treat softer artisan soaps the same way, you end up with a mushy mess.
(This post was last modified: 09-04-2023, 05:02 PM by Tester28.)
(09-04-2023, 03:41 PM)RayClem Wrote: If you try loading many artisan soaps directly from the tub using a wet brush, it is easy to end up with a mushy soap.
My procedure is to pour 1 Tablespoon of hot water into the tub and the "bloom" the soap for no more than 10 seconds. I then pour the bloom water into my lather bowl. That loosens up the top layer of the soap without makngn the underlying soap mushy. After soaking my brush, I squeeze and shake out as much water as I can from the brush, leaving the brush slightly damp. I can then load the brush directly from the tub, swirling for about 10 seconds. I can then take the loaded brush to my lather bowl and whip up a nice lather in about 30 seconds. If you want to face lather, that is fine, just use the bloom water as a source of water for developing the lather.
I always leave the top off the soap until any moisture has evaporated. I never use the same soap two shaves in a row so the soap has time to dry out between shaves.
Hard pucks need a lot of moisture to make the soap usable. Thus. they seem to work best when you use them for every shave so they can remain moist between shaves. If you try to treat softer artisan soaps the same way, you end up with a mushy mess.
Wow, this needs to be a sticky!
Thanks for these great tip! I will definitely try it.
Just received tubs of Bon Monsieur and Mousse Illuminee (with corresponding splashes)...Im a fan of Rogue Perfumery.
(09-04-2023, 05:01 PM)Tester28 Wrote:Bon Monseiur is a tweaked in version of Drakkar Noir and has a Barbershop touch to it. Mousse Illumimee is my favorite of all the zingaris I have.(09-04-2023, 03:41 PM)RayClem Wrote: If you try loading many artisan soaps directly from the tub using a wet brush, it is easy to end up with a mushy soap.
My procedure is to pour 1 Tablespoon of hot water into the tub and the "bloom" the soap for no more than 10 seconds. I then pour the bloom water into my lather bowl. That loosens up the top layer of the soap without makngn the underlying soap mushy. After soaking my brush, I squeeze and shake out as much water as I can from the brush, leaving the brush slightly damp. I can then load the brush directly from the tub, swirling for about 10 seconds. I can then take the loaded brush to my lather bowl and whip up a nice lather in about 30 seconds. If you want to face lather, that is fine, just use the bloom water as a source of water for developing the lather.
I always leave the top off the soap until any moisture has evaporated. I never use the same soap two shaves in a row so the soap has time to dry out between shaves.
Hard pucks need a lot of moisture to make the soap usable. Thus. they seem to work best when you use them for every shave so they can remain moist between shaves. If you try to treat softer artisan soaps the same way, you end up with a mushy mess.
Wow, this needs to be a sticky!
Thanks for these great tip! I will definitely try it.
Just received tubs of Bon Monsieur and Mousse Illuminee (with corresponding splashes)...Im a fan of Rogue Perfumery.
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(This post was last modified: 09-04-2023, 06:54 PM by jags009.)
(09-04-2023, 03:41 PM)RayClem Wrote: If you try loading many artisan soaps directly from the tub using a wet brush, it is easy to end up with a mushy soap.I have recently adopted almost a similar method as yours. Only underlying difference is that I don't bowl lather.
My procedure is to pour 1 Tablespoon of hot water into the tub and the "bloom" the soap for no more than 10 seconds. I then pour the bloom water into my lather bowl. That loosens up the top layer of the soap without makngn the underlying soap mushy. After soaking my brush, I squeeze and shake out as much water as I can from the brush, leaving the brush slightly damp. I can then load the brush directly from the tub, swirling for about 10 seconds. I can then take the loaded brush to my lather bowl and whip up a nice lather in about 30 seconds. If you want to face lather, that is fine, just use the bloom water as a source of water for developing the lather.
I always leave the top off the soap until any moisture has evaporated. I never use the same soap two shaves in a row so the soap has time to dry out between shaves.
Hard pucks need a lot of moisture to make the soap usable. Thus. they seem to work best when you use them for every shave so they can remain moist between shaves. If you try to treat softer artisan soaps the same way, you end up with a mushy mess.
Other correction I have made is that I have stopped soaking my synthetic and badger brushes. I only run top 20% of the knot under water to wet the tips.
Am in more control of lather these days, it's not runny anymore (with synthetics), slow water addition gives me a more slick and hydrated lather. Awesome shaves with no razor burn or irritation.
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Zingari Man - Sego is a great soap, but I have never been overly impressed with some of the in-house fragrances. They are OK, but are not "perfume grade" scents.
Fortunately, Heather also collaborates with a number of perfumers to produce some products with fantastic scents. There are several scents developed by Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactives, the same nose behind the Chatillion Lux scents, but made with higher grade fragrances. Then there are a couple of scents produced in collaboration with Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery. Those include "Bon Monseur" and "Mousse Illumine". The most spectalar Zingari scent might be "No. 1" which is a rose scented fragrence developed by French perfumer Yann Derriennic of Byron Parfums. As might be expected, this scent is more expensive than the others, but it is worth it if you like rose scents. This one exudes class: Turkish Rose, Vanilla, Oud, Bulgarian Rose, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Amber.
Fortunately, Heather also collaborates with a number of perfumers to produce some products with fantastic scents. There are several scents developed by Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactives, the same nose behind the Chatillion Lux scents, but made with higher grade fragrances. Then there are a couple of scents produced in collaboration with Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery. Those include "Bon Monseur" and "Mousse Illumine". The most spectalar Zingari scent might be "No. 1" which is a rose scented fragrence developed by French perfumer Yann Derriennic of Byron Parfums. As might be expected, this scent is more expensive than the others, but it is worth it if you like rose scents. This one exudes class: Turkish Rose, Vanilla, Oud, Bulgarian Rose, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Amber.
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