(This post was last modified: 12-04-2021, 06:25 PM by Southsider.)
I have some older Grooming Dept soaps that I really like along with some newer ones in Nai and Kairos. Of the older ones, Sandalwood Fig Musk, Incense & Rose, After The Fire and Mallard Kulfi all stand out. I see the Mallard Kulfi scent has been repeated in the newest Mallard base. I used the Incense & Rose (beef tallow) today and it was most excellent.
In an email communication I had with Mo, in response to a question by Mo I suggested that he seek a greater level of consistency with both bases and scents. Lack of consistency (apart from high quality) has been one of the hallmarks of Grooming Dept. The bases are always changing and evolving, though of nearly uniformly high quality. The scents, being a subjective thing, are more problematic. Mo seldom seems to bring them back though, as noted, two or more of the newer mallard offerings have the same names as some older offerings and are likely a repeat of the older scents. This therefore may be evolving.
Personally, I like being able to order a fresh tub in a new base with a scent I have grown fond of. Good examples of companies that use this approach are Declaration Grooming and Barrister & Mann. This is my preferred approach. Wholly Kaw appears to have chosen a completely different approach. They keep existing scents available in the base in which the scent was introduced but do not appear to migrate that older scent to the newer base.
A separate paradigm is where the soapmaker produces a soap with a scent created by a scentmaker like Chatillon Lux or Maol Grooming. One of my favorite soap scents of all time is Chatillon Lux's Yuzu Rose Patchouli. At least 3 different soapmakers have utilized that particular scent with Declaration Grooming currently offering it in Milksteak. Grooming Dept has used Maol Grooming's FrankinLime successfully and Talbot has also used that scent albeit with a less satisfying result IMO.
keto,
Marko,
DanLaw and
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