Stubble Daddy’s Shave Journal of Awesomeness and Honesty ...

Sounds like a good day for smoking pork.

6 hours in at 275F. Color looking good…

The butt on the left was rubbed with brown sugar, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika

The butt on the right was rubbed with thai pepper flake, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika

It’s interesting to see the caramelization and darker color on the sugary one.

Is it beer 30 yet?

Looking good!

6 hours in at 275F. Color looking good…

The butt on the left was rubbed with brown sugar, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika

The butt on the right was rubbed with thai pepper flake, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika

It’s interesting to see the caramelization and darker color on the sugary one.

Is it beer 30 yet?

Looks awesome Paul!

Yes, yes it it. It's always 5 o'clock somewhere!

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No shaving or turning action for me today. But I will share a couple pics of these pork butts:

6 hours in at 275F. Color looking good…

The butt on the left was rubbed with brown sugar, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika

The butt on the right was rubbed with thai pepper flake, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika

It’s interesting to see the caramelization and darker color on the sugary one.

Is it beer 30 yet?

Razor: WSC Winning
Brush: Viking w/26mm SHD Knot
Soap: Los Jabones de Joserra - Kush
Aftershave: Floid - Black
Blade: Feather

Razor: Wolfman WR1 (.80 gap)
Brush: Trotter Handcrafts - “Astrophile” w/ 28mm Elite Manchurian White Knot
Soap: MWF
Aftershave: Southern Witchcrafts - Arcane Abyss
Blade: Feather

Since we were chatting about MWF over in Eric’s journal, I decided to reach for it today.

First, a bit of history (copied from the Mitchell’s website):

Mitchell's Wool Fat Soap was first produced in the early 1930s by Bradford chemist Fred Mitchell who realised that the natural lanolin content of wool fat, which kept the hands of local sheep shearers and wool sorters so exceptionally soft, could also be beneficial to delicate complexions and sensitive skins.

Ingredients:

Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua, Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Lanolin, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Silicate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Magnesium Sulphate, Tetrasodium Etidronate.

Where it’s made:

St Helena Road
Wibsey
Bradford
West Yorkshire
BD6 1QH



I first bought a puck about 5 or 6 years ago. I could not for the life of me get it to lather. I actually thought there was something wrong with the puck and gave it away. A few years later I bought another puck and same thing… wouldn’t lather up. Gave that puck away. Then I read several threads and all the little tips to make it work better.

1. Use it often (numerous times per week)
2. Grate it
3. Bloom it
4. Use a synthetic knot/brush
5. Add way more water than you think is needed

And yes! Applying all these tips did in fact help! The lather I get with it now is acceptable and usable, yet still on the foamy side. It has lots of cushion but still not much density like Tabac, most elite-level artisan soaps, etc. I find it very slick and the puck lasts forever since it’s hard, and triple milled.

To my nose the scent is wonderful. Very clean, fresh, light, soapy and approachable.

The post-shave feel is unmatched and this alone is worth the price of admission.

Now that I know how to properly use it, it will always be on hand in my den!

Razor: Wolfman WR1 (.80 gap)
Brush: Trotter Handcrafts - “Astrophile” w/ 28mm Elite Manchurian White Knot
Soap: MWF
Aftershave: Southern Witchcrafts - Arcane Abyss
Blade: Feather

Since we were chatting about MWF over in Eric’s journal, I decided to reach for it today.

First, a bit of history (copied from the Mitchell’s website):

Mitchell's Wool Fat Soap was first produced in the early 1930s by Bradford chemist Fred Mitchell who realised that the natural lanolin content of wool fat, which kept the hands of local sheep shearers and wool sorters so exceptionally soft, could also be beneficial to delicate complexions and sensitive skins.

Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua, Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Lanolin, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Silicate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Magnesium Sulphate, Tetrasodium Etidronate.

Where it’s made:

St Helena Road
Wibsey
Bradford
West Yorkshire
BD6 1QH



I first bought a puck about 5 or 6 years ago. I could not for the life of me get it to lather. I actually thought there was something wrong with the puck and gave it away. A few years later I bought another puck and same thing… wouldn’t lather up. Gave that puck away. Then I read several threads an all the little tips to make it work better.

1. Use it often (numerous times per week)
2. Grate it
3. Bloom it
4. Use a synthetic knot/brush
5. Add way more water than you think is needed

And yes! Applying all these tips did in fact help! The lather I get with it now is acceptable and usable, yet still on the foamy side. It has lots of cushion but still not much density like Tabac, most elite-level artisan soaps, etc. I find it very slick and the puck lasts forever since it’s hard, and triple milled.

To my nose the scent is wonderful. Very clean, fresh, light, soapy and approachable.

The post-shave feel is unmatched and this alone is worth the price of admission.

Now that I know how to properly use it, it will always be on hand in my den!

Great write-up Paul! I may need to revisit this, especially since Amazon has it readily available. Thanks for sharing.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Yes, great writing! I placed my order yesterday with the 'zon!

Yes on a GREAT write up on it Paul and one of the slickest soaps I've used for sure and for certain.............oops, slipped into my Amish Dialect