(This post was last modified: 02-21-2016, 07:35 AM by onethinline.)
(02-20-2016, 11:16 PM)Dino de Soto Wrote: Gents,
Thank you for the many responses. I am in the military, and a Hispanic male. My skin is very sensitive and the water here is quite hard. I am using Derby w/ a RazoRock Baby Smooth. Great shave, but the ingrown hair are killing me. I shave with the down pattern, even on my face. I am also currently using a Proraso boar brush, and I also have a synthetic brush. Soap is Catie's Bubbles, and aftershave is Thayer's Witch Hazel Rose Petal.
Hm. The Derby is a fine blade for some, but it's not particularly sharp compared to other blades out there. Somewhat counterintuitively, a sharper blade (with good technique!) will often cause less irritation since it cuts through whiskers more effectively, with less tugging, and not tempting you to even subconsciously apply extra pressure. An especially sharp blade, I find, lets me use a deft, light touch, which means I'm cutting whiskers only, not scraping my skin.
So, in addition to continuing to focus on your technique (slick lather, good angle which means not too steep, and very light pressure), check out some other blades. Some sharper ones I like include Astra SP, Personna "lab blue", Gillette Silver Blue, and, my favorites, Feather.
If it turns out your whiskers are indeed on the thick side, you'd probably benefit from a razor which has more blade rigidity. Some DE razor designs accomplish this by how they grip the blade (the Gillette NEW, the Wolfman), or by torquing the blade in a slant design. Single-edge razors, as mentioned by others above, use thicker blades, which are inherently more rigid. I've started trying some vintage Schick injectors and they're great: relatively easy and shave really well with very little trouble.
Finally, focusing on your hair growth direction is really important. It can switch direction where you don't expect it. Be sure to shave with the grain (WTG) first, then across (XTG). Leave it at that and see how it goes. I'd only add against the grain as a third pass if you don't have problems with the first two passes, and then if ATG is troublesome, skip it. A perfectly close shave isn't worth irritation and bumps!
David : DE shaving since Nov 2014. Nowadays giving in to the single-edge siren call.