RayClem's Blade Evaluations

Today's shave- Facon Platinum

Until a couple of months ago, I had never heard of Facon blades. Facon Premium razors primarily produces shavettes and razors for barbers and hair stylists. They produce DE blades and pre split blades for use in the razors. There are not a lot of reviews out there, but the impression I got was that these blades might fall into the super-sharp category. I am not certain where these blades are made, but I suspect they come from China. I have no issue using Chinese produced products as long as the quality is good.

I began today's shave with the Jaguar blade from my previous shave. It was still performing well. When I switched to the Facon blade, I found the sharpness was similar, but the blade seemed to be somewhat smoother. While the blade was not as sharp as the sharpest blades I have evaluated, it was plenty sharp to give me a near-BBS shave. Furthermore, because the blade was smoother than the Jaguar, I was able to complete the shave, including buffing strokes, with only minimal feedback when I applied witch hazel after the shave.

Based on the results of this shave, I am rating the blades 4.5 sharpness and 4.5 smoothness. The evaluation spreadsheet has been updated.

This is exactly how I rated some of my favorite blades, including Personna Chrome Platinum, Lord Silver Star, and Dorco Prime Platinum. Furthermore, you can purchase 50 blades for $6 (12 cents per blade). While the Silver Star blades appear to be a better value, if the Facon platinum blades last longer, they might be as good. Anyway, I am glad I added 50 blades to my den. I will be checking their durability in the coming months.

For Thursday's shave I plan to use the Bolzano Superinox. While Bolzano is an Italian name, the blades were formerly made in Germany. However, for the past few years, they have been made by Lord in Egypt. Since Lord makes blades with widely varying quality, I am hoping the Bolzanos blades are on the higher quality end, especially since they are 20 cents per blade.

Any problems like I had trying to remove the Facon blade?

muzichead

I had not really checked as I left the blade in the Karve stainless razor to start off Thursday's shave. But since you asked, I removed and reinserted the blade. I did not have any issue doing that. The cutout on the blade seemed to be a snug fit such that there was no movement of the blade on the pins and threads, but it was not so tight that it was difficult to put on or take off. I don't doubt you had the issue, but my blades do not have that issue.

Addendum:

I was pondering your issue trying to figure out what might have happened. Such slots and holes in the blade are made using a punch and die combination. If the punch wears, the holes and slots won't be cut cleanly and the blade might hang on the posts or threads. As the die wears, the holes and slots can become slightly larger making misalignment of the blade in the razor more likely. One of the QC responsibilities at the plant is insuring that the punch and die are replaced whenever the holes and slots are no longer within specification, but there will always be some variability over the lifespan of the punch and die. Typically, the die will be made of metal hardened to a high HRC rating and the punch will be made to a slightly lower hardness so the punch will need replacing more frequently than the die.

If you have a flatbed scanner, use that to make a scan of the blade and save it as jpg file. If you do not have a scanner, take a macro photo using a digital camera or your cell phone. Then enlarge the image to see if there is any evidence of distortions around the edge of the hole or slots. You might also be able to feel distortion with your fingers, but be careful not to cut yourself.

I worked as an engineer in the paper industry where punch and die systems were used frequently to punch holes in paper such as the address windows in business envelopes, tractor feed holes in forms, and holes in three-hole punch sheets. However, punching metal is many times more difficult.

muzichead

I had not really checked as I left the blade in the Karve stainless razor to start off Thursday's shave. But since you asked, I removed and reinserted the blade. I did not have any issue doing that. The cutout on the blade seemed to be a snug fit such that there was no movement of the blade on the pins and threads, but it was not so tight that it was difficult to put on or take off. I don't doubt you had the issue, but my blades do not have that issue.

Addendum:

I was pondering your issue trying to figure out what might have happened. Such slots and holes in the blade are made using a punch and die combination. If the punch wears, the holes and slots won't be cut cleanly and the blade might hang on the posts or threads. As the die wears, the holes and slots can become slightly larger making misalignment of the blade in the razor more likely. One of the QC responsibilities at the plant is insuring that the punch and die are replaced whenever the holes and slots are no longer within specification, but there will always be some variability over the lifespan of the punch and die. Typically, the die will be made of metal hardened to a high HRC rating and the punch will be made to a slightly lower hardness so the punch will need replacing more frequently than the die.

If you have a flatbed scanner, use that to make a scan of the blade and save it as jpg file. If you do not have a scanner, take a macro photo using a digital camera or your cell phone. Then enlarge the image to see if there is any evidence of distortions around the edge of the hole or slots. You might also be able to feel distortion with your fingers, but be careful not to cut yourself.

I worked as an engineer in the paper industry where punch and die systems were used frequently to punch holes in paper such as the address windows in business envelopes, tractor feed holes in forms, and holes in three-hole punch sheets. However, punching metal is many times more difficult.

I threw the blades in the trash so I don't have them anymore....

Thursday's shave- Bolzano Superinox

Although Bolzano is an Italian name, the blades were made in Germany up until a few years ago. I never tried those blades as they were reported to be not very sharp. Currently, Bolzano produces these blades in Egypt. There is nothing on the tucks or blades that indicates they type of coating. However, somewhere I read that they might have titanium coating.

I started the shave with the Faco'n blade from the previous shave. It was still sharp and smooth. After a few strokes, I replaced it with a fresh Bolazno. Initially, there was slight blade resistance, but the blade soon became sharper. I was easily able to achieve a near-BBS shave. When I applied witch hazel after the shave, I got essentially zero feedback. Thus, this was a great shave.

Based on the results of the shave, I am rating the Bolzano Superinox at 4.5 sharpness and 5 smoothness. That puts it in the same league as some of my favorite blades. I might have to add some more to my den (enabler alert!) The evaluation spreadsheet has been updated. You can find the spreadsheet here:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/71ttt15wy...qo8eb&dl=0

On Saturday, I am going to test the Treet DuraSharp. I never considered Treet blades until I tried the Treet Platinum which was a nice blade at a very attractive price.

Saturday Shave- Treet Dura Sharp

I started the shave with the Bolzano blade from my previous shave in the Karve razor. It was still sharp and smooth. After a few strokes, I replaced the blade with a fresh Dura Sharp. Although the Bolzano blades were very sharp, the Dura Sharp blades were sharper. They are approaching legendary Feather sharpness. As is to be expected, such sharpness brings with it the possibility of blood loss. I did get a minor weeper on my chin, even though I recognized I was dealing with a super sharp blade. I easily was able to get a near-BBS shave, in fact, it was closer than many of my shaves.

Unfortunately, the sharpness of the Dura Sharp blade is not matched by smoothness. When I applied witch hazel after the shave, I got significant feedback indicating that the blade did irritate my skin. If I had stopped after 3 passes, I could have limited the irritation and still gotten a DFS.

Based on the results of this shave, I am rating the sharpness 5 and the smoothness 4. I rated Feather blades sharpness 4.75 and smoothness 4.25 after averaging two shaves. Thus, these blade are performing in a manner similar to Feather for those who love super sharp blades. The difference between Feather blades and Dura Sharp, however, is the price. While the Feather Hi-stainless blades sell for $50 per 100 blades, the Treet Dura Sharp can be purchased for only $8. For those who like Feather blade sharpness, but balk at paying the price for them, I recommend that you consider Treet Dura Sharp. I have no idea how long these blades will last, but since I only get two good shaves from Feather, ect the Dura Sharp blades should last at least that long.

The evaluation spreadsheet has been updated.

On Monday, I plan to shave with the Treet Classic blade which is made of carbon steel. Treet is one of the few manufacturers still producing blades from carbon steel.

First of all thanks for your efforts that can be a guideline for forum members.

There is two version of Treet Dura Sharp:






I tested first one and didn't find it so sharp and not smooth also.
For bolzano, surprisingly it give so efficient shave that you can get with another razor with more positive blade exposure. I measured width of blade to see that is there any difference between this and others that can cause more blade exposure or not but it was same as standard.

The Dura Sharp that I tested was the first one in the medium blue packaging. I have never seen the second packaging. 

I have no idea what kind of coating is used on the Treet Dura Sharps. I presume that it is polymer coated, but nothing is stated. The blade I tested was very sharp. Perhaps I got an unusually sharp one, but the plant is ISO certified, so they have QC procedures in place. 

Like you, I did not find the blade to be smooth. I always shave with light pressure, but I had to be particularly careful with these blades. 

I am curious as to what I will find with the Classic blades. I have shaved with carbon steel straight razors. If honed properly, they can give a wonderful shave, but if honed poorly, the results can be pretty bad.

Monday's Shave- Treet Classic (carbon steel)

This is the first time I have attempted to shave with a carbon steel DE blade since using the Gillette Super Blue blades in the 1960s. I had no idea what to expect from the Treet Classic. However, they are marketed as "affordable luxury" and I am pleased that that description was accurate.

I began today's shave with the Treet Durasharp blade from the previous shave. It still retained the super sharpness. Since it is not super smooth, I had to use a light touch, but it passed through my stubble with almost no resistance. After a few strokes, I replaced the Dura Sharp with the Treet Classic. Initially, there was some blade resistance, but the blade soon became sharper. It was plenty sharp to achieve a near-BBS shave using buffing strokes. When I applied witch hazel after the shave, I got minimal feedback. It was a great shave, worthy of the "affordable luxury" description.

Based on the results of this shave, I am rating the blade sharpness as 4.5 and the smoothness as 4.5. This places it the same category as some of my favorite blade. Furthermore, at a price of only $7 per 100 blades, this is the least expensive blade on the list. Since I only tested the blade for one shave, I have no idea how long it will last. Even if I can only get a couple of nice shaves, Treet Classic will still be a superb value. Highly recommended, especially for those looking for a bargain.

The evaluation spreadsheet has been updated.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/71ttt15wy...qo8eb&dl=0

There are only four more blades to go unless I find another intriguing option. I have been looking for Suneko razor blades with the amorphous diamond coating. However, it seems the only way to order is through Aliexpress. If anyone has these blades or knows where I can get them in North America, please let me know.

Wednesday's shave will be with Derby Extra (green). There is also a Derby Extra (blue), but I think the only difference is the blue blades come in bulk pack of 200 blades. My previous experiences with Derby Extra blades were less than desirable, but that was a number of years ago when the blades were thicker than they are today. I am hoping the current blades are sharper.

Monday's Shave- Treet Classic (carbon steel)

This is the first time I have attempted to shave with a carbon steel DE blade since using the Gillette Super Blue blades in the 1960s. I had no idea what to expect from the Treet Classic. However, they are marketed as "affordable luxury" and I am pleased that that description was accurate.

I began today's shave with the Treet Durasharp blade from the previous shave. It still retained the super sharpness. Since it is not super smooth, I had to use a light touch, but it passed through my stubble with almost no resistance. After a few strokes, I replaced the Dura Sharp with the Treet Classic. Initially, there was some blade resistance, but the blade soon became sharper. It was plenty sharp to achieve a near-BBS shave using buffing strokes. When I applied witch hazel after the shave, I got minimal feedback. It was a great shave, worthy of the "affordable luxury" description.

Based on the results of this shave, I am rating the blade sharpness as 4.5 and the smoothness as 4.5. This places it the same category as some of my favorite blade. Furthermore, at a price of only $7 per 100 blades, this is the least expensive blade on the list. Since I only tested the blade for one shave, I have no idea how long it will last. Even if I can only get a couple of nice shaves, Treet Classic will still be a superb value. Highly recommended, especially for those looking for a bargain.

The evaluation spreadsheet has been updated.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/71ttt15wy...qo8eb&dl=0

There are only four more blades to go unless I find another intriguing option. I have been looking for Suneko razor blades with the amorphous diamond coating. However, it seems the only way to order is through Aliexpress. If anyone has these blades or knows where I can get them in North America, please let me know.

Wednesday's shave will be with Derby Extra (green). There is also a Derby Extra (blue), but I think the only difference is the blue blades come in bulk pack of 200 blades. My previous experiences with Derby Extra blades were less than desirable, but that was a number of years ago when the blades were thicker than they are today. I am hoping the current blades are sharper.

I was actually going to ask if you knew the difference between Derby Green and Blue. They seem to be exactly the same other than packaging. Super Stainless and the same coating. I just picked up a tuck of the derby Premium which is supposed to be Swedish Steel (is it really better?). All made in Turkey, but the Premium lists Azmusebat as the producer. I don't if that is the same as the blue and green, I would assume so?

As far as I know, the Derby Premium is  different than the Derby Extra.  I will know more after Wednesday's shave. I rated the Premium as 4.5 sharpness, 4.5 smoothness which is similar to some of my favorite blades. That is also how I rated the 1st shave with the Treet Classic carbon blades. I am assuming the Derby Extra blades will be less sharp, but I will wait until I use them to draw a conclusion. The Extra blades are less expensive, but that is not necessarily a good indicator of performance.