RayClem's Blade Evaluations

Sweeney

The Minora, Wizamet and King C Gillette blades shaver several things in common, but there are differences. All three are Gillette brands and all of my blades were produced by PPI in Russia. The three blades produced excellent four-pass shaves on the 1st two shaves with two-day beards. However, the Minora is polymer coated; the KCG is platinum coated; and the Wizamets are Iridium coated. Because polymer is softer than platinum, which is softer than iridium, the durability of these blades may well differ with subsequent shaves.

Gillette is no longer producing blades for export to NATO countries due to sanctions. PPI is likely to continue to produce blades for use within the Russian Federation and its allies.

As you indicated, as of 2023, King C Gillette blades are being produced in China; I believe in Shanghai. Some other brands are supposed to be moved to manufacturing facilities in India. At this time, I have not seen any India-produced blades of former PPI brands. However, I did read a post from someone who indicated that Astra Superior Platinum blades are now being made in India. That is not surprising as the Astra SP blades are one of Gillette's best sellers. Presumably, they would be the first blade moved to India. While those blades might be available in some countries, I have not yet seen any of the Indian Astra SP blades for sale by USA vendors. They are still advertising Russian stock.

As for your comment on blades for more aggressive razors, your comments are well received. While super sharp blades like Feather, BIC Chrome, and Nacet can make a less aggressive razor more efficient, it can also make an aggressive razor too aggressive for comfort. I have a Mulhe R41 that is plenty aggressive. I rarely use it as I have to be super careful of my shaving technique to avoid irritation. On those rare occasions when I dare to use it, I equip it with a mid-sharp, very smooth blade like the 7 O'Clock SharpEdge yellow. While I have not tested it, something like the Laser Ultra Triple Coated blades might also work.

Like you, I love finding sleeper blades as they can often provide great performance at inexpensive prices. Some "sleeper" blades I really like are: Sharp titanium by Durablade that also makes the 7 AM blades, and Dorco Prime Platinum STP301, and Parker Super Platinum, and SuperMax Blue Diamond Platinum. These are all great blades that can be purchased in bulk for under $13 for 100 blades, yet many people have never heard of them. These "sleepers" are some of the blades I will evaluate over the coming weeks. Because most former Gillette PPI blades are well known, my focus will be on blades manufactured outside Russia.


Correction/Addendum: In perusing blades on Amazon I spotted one listing for Astra SP blades that were labeled "Made in India". However, there were also several others that appeared to still come from Russia. If you want Russian Astras, grab them before they are gone. If you want Indian Astras, be careful in placing your order.

I just got the Parker Platinum 5 pack for .80. That's 16 friggin' cents a blade!!! Earmarked for my next shave with my Copper Karve SB-E most likely. I rarely get mix, but I do agree with your thoughts that an aggressive blade to make an aggressive razor even more so. I used a Nacet blade in my Karve OC-G plate and I got quite a few nicks yesterday. I haven't had that plate for a long time yet (though I have used it with little to no nicks) so I'm still getting used to it and it's aluminum. Light razors throw me as far as pressure goes, I'm used to a light touch as I favor heavier ones.

I just got the Parker Platinum 5 pack for .80. That's 16 friggin' cents a blade!!! Earmarked for my next shave with my Copper Karve SB-E most likely. I rarely get mix, but I do agree with your thoughts that an aggressive blade to make an aggressive razor even more so. I used a Nacet blade in my Karve OC-G plate and I got quite a few nicks yesterday. I haven't had that plate for a long time yet (though I have used it with little to no nicks) so I'm still getting used to it and it's aluminum. Light razors throw me as far as pressure goes, I'm used to a light touch as I favor heavier ones.

If you purchase Parker Super Platinum from Amazon in a 100 blade bulk pack, they cost $13.77 or about 14 cents per blade. If you were able to get a 5 pack for 16 cents per blade, you did quite well. If you purchase a 10 pack of King C Gillette blades, you will pay $7 or 70 cents per blade. 

I have both Karve SB C and D plates. When I purchased the C plate, I purchased the OC version thinking it would be similar to the D plate in aggression. However, I decided that I did not like the "chunky" tooth configuration of the OC, so I purchased the SB version C plate. That is the razor I am now using for the evaluations. It is mid aggressive. 

According to the Karve web site, the G-plates have a gap of 1.36mm and a blade exposure of 0.25mm. The OC version is even more aggressive than the SB version. I might be able to use the SB E plate with 1.10 mm blade gap and .17 mm exposure, but the OC G plate is more than I would want to tackle, especially with a super sharp blade like the Nacet. The OC G plate is going to be somewhere in the same ballpark as the Muhle R41 with respect to aggression. If you are going to use the G plate OC, I suggest looking for smooth blades with mid-level sharpness. I use the Gillette 7 O'Clock SharpEdge yellow blade in my Muhle R41. However, blades like the SuperMax Super Stainless, Treet Platinum, and Laser Ultra Triple Coated might also be suitable. However, I have not tested them in my R41.

The weight and balance of razors is interesting. Most of my razors are either brass, chrome plated brass or ZAMAC, or stainless steel; all fairly heavy razors. I just recently purchased a Timeless Titanium 0.68, but have not had a chance to evaluate it properly due to the blade evaluations. With heavier razors you can use the weight of the razor to apply pressure to the skin such that you do not have to apply pressure manually. With a lighter razor, the weight of the head might not be sufficient. Aluminum is only 60% of the weight of titanium, so an aluminum razor is going to be even lighter in weight. It is unlikely that you will be able to shave with an aluminum razor without adding some manual pressure to the stroke. In that case, the precision of your manual dexterity will play a big role in the success of your shave. That is why I do not want an aluminum razor. I am hoping titanium will be sufficiently heavy. I will be using the Timeless razor for my clean-up passes with very light pressure.

I just got the Parker Platinum 5 pack for .80. That's 16 friggin' cents a blade!!! Earmarked for my next shave with my Copper Karve SB-E most likely. I rarely get mix, but I do agree with your thoughts that an aggressive blade to make an aggressive razor even more so. I used a Nacet blade in my Karve OC-G plate and I got quite a few nicks yesterday. I haven't had that plate for a long time yet (though I have used it with little to no nicks) so I'm still getting used to it and it's aluminum. Light razors throw me as far as pressure goes, I'm used to a light touch as I favor heavier ones.

If you purchase Parker Super Platinum from Amazon in a 100 blade bulk pack, they cost $13.77 or about 14 cents per blade. If you were able to get a 5 pack for 16 cents per blade, you did quite well. If you purchase a 10 pack of King C Gillette blades, you will pay $7 or 70 cents per blade. 

I have both Karve SB C and D plates. When I purchased the C plate, I purchased the OC version thinking it would be similar to the D plate in aggression. However, I decided that I did not like the "chunky" tooth configuration of the OC, so I purchased the SB version C plate. That is the razor I am now using for the evaluations. It is mid aggressive. 

According to the Karve web site, the G-plates have a gap of 1.36mm and a blade exposure of 0.25mm. The OC version is even more aggressive than the SB version. I might be able to use the SB E plate with 1.10 mm blade gap and .17 mm exposure, but the OC G plate is more than I would want to tackle, especially with a super sharp blade like the Nacet. The OC G plate is going to be somewhere in the same ballpark as the Muhle R41 with respect to aggression. If you are going to use the G plate OC, I suggest looking for smooth blades with mid-level sharpness. I use the Gillette 7 O'Clock SharpEdge yellow blade in my Muhle R41. However, blades like the SuperMax Super Stainless, Treet Platinum, and Laser Ultra Triple Coated might also be suitable. However, I have not tested them in my R41.

The weight and balance of razors is interesting. Most of my razors are either brass, chrome plated brass or ZAMAC, or stainless steel; all fairly heavy razors. I just recently purchase a Timeless Titanium, but have not had a chance to evaluate it properly due to the blade evaluations. With heavier razors you can use the weight of the razor to apply pressure to the skin such that you do not have to apply pressure manually. With a lighter razor, the weight of the head might not be sufficient. Aluminum is only 60% of the weight of titanium, so an aluminum razor is going to be even ligher in weight. It is unlikely that you will be able to shave with an aluminum razor without adding some manual pressure to the stroke. In that case, the precision of your manual dexterity will play a big role in the success of your shave. That is why I do not want an aluminum razor. I am hoping titanium will be sufficiently heavy. I will be using the Timeless razor for my clean-up passes with very light pressure.

I did get the Parkers for .80. I started by guessing with the Karve SB-C plate but wanted more, so I jumped the D and got the E. Very efficient and still comfortable. Karve does explain their plates as you thought with the OC-C being like the SB-D. It's supposed to be equal to the step up SB plate. I just got a tuck of the Gillette Yellow's I will have to try. I do not own many aluminum razors as they are to light for me. I had to have this one because I loved it, but I have to adjust my pressure. I do have a Timeless Ti .95 OC. The little bit more weight is welcome, though still light. It is incredibly smooth, however. I am partial to Brass, SS, and Copper. I like the heft and I am used to just more or less guiding the razor and trying not to manually add any pressure. That said, I do have Brass Karve with the OC-F plate and have had no issues. I think I need to adjust to the weight of the aluminum. Which is one metal I rarely use with regard to DE razors.

I did get the Parkers for .80. I started by guessing with the Karve SB-C plate but wanted more, so I jumped the D and got the E. Very efficient and still comfortable. Karve does explain their plates as you thought with the OC-C being like the SB-D. It's supposed to be equal to the step up SB plate. I just got a tuck of the Gillette Yellow's I will have to try. I do not own many aluminum razors as they are to light for me. I had to have this one because I loved it, but I have to adjust my pressure. I do have a Timeless Ti .95 OC. The little bit more weight is welcome, though still light. It is incredibly smooth, however. I am partial to Brass, SS, and Copper. I like the heft and I am used to just more or less guiding the razor and trying not to manually add any pressure. That said, I do have Brass Karve with the OC-F plate and have had no issues. I think I need to adjust to the weight of the aluminum. Which is one metal I rarely use with regard to DE razors.

What is your opinion of the aggressiveness of the Timeless TI .95 OC.?

When I purchased the Timeless TI 0.68 SB, I did so with the intent of replacing the mild VDH (Weishi) TTO that I normally use for my clean-up passes. The VDH was cheap and the TTO mechanism is starting to show some wear. I plan to use that razor with a super sharp blade. The other older razor that I use in my normal sequence of a different razor/blade combination for each pass is a Parker 24C OC. I use it with a very sharp, but not super sharp blade. It is used for my 1st pass WTG to mow down my beard growth before moving on to less aggressive razors for my XTG, ATG, and clean-up passes. For example, I might use the Karve D plate XTG followed by the Karve C plate ATG. To be clear- I temporarily abandoned that typical procedure for the purpose of these razor blade evaluations. I am using the Karve C plate for every pass as the other razors might cause irritation if I used them for every pass, especially when testing sharper blades. 

Thus, I would be interested in your opinion of whether the Timeless TI .95 OC would be a suitable replacement for my Parker 24C OC.   My plan would be to use it primarily for WTG on my 1st pass. Since you have experience with several of the Karve plates, you might be able to help me determine whether to purchase one. While the Titanium razors are quite expensive, they are exquisite in appearance, especially if you pay to get the polished finish like I did. I am not a fan of the patina on bronze razors, nor the bead blast finish on stainless razors. Thus, I am willing to pay extra for polished Titanium. I would not consider getting a Karve Titanium OC as the teeth are too "chunky". I do not like the feel. The Timless OC teeth are more refined.

I did get the Parkers for .80. I started by guessing with the Karve SB-C plate but wanted more, so I jumped the D and got the E. Very efficient and still comfortable. Karve does explain their plates as you thought with the OC-C being like the SB-D. It's supposed to be equal to the step up SB plate. I just got a tuck of the Gillette Yellow's I will have to try. I do not own many aluminum razors as they are to light for me. I had to have this one because I loved it, but I have to adjust my pressure. I do have a Timeless Ti .95 OC. The little bit more weight is welcome, though still light. It is incredibly smooth, however. I am partial to Brass, SS, and Copper. I like the heft and I am used to just more or less guiding the razor and trying not to manually add any pressure. That said, I do have Brass Karve with the OC-F plate and have had no issues. I think I need to adjust to the weight of the aluminum. Which is one metal I rarely use with regard to DE razors.

What is your opinion of the aggressiveness of the Timeless TI .95 OC.?

When I purchased the Timeless TI 0.68 SB, I did so with the intent of replacing the mild VDH (Weishi) TTO that I normally use for my clean-up passes. The VDH was cheap and the TTO mechanism is starting to show some wear. I plan to use that razor with a super sharp blade. The other older razor that I use in my normal sequence of a different razor/blade combination for each pass is a Parker 24C OC. I use it with a very sharp, but not super sharp blade. It is used for my 1st pass WTG to mow down my beard growth before moving on to less aggressive razors for my XTG, ATG, and clean-up passes. For example, I might use the Karve D plate XTG followed by the Karve C plate ATG. To be clear- I temporarily abandoned that typical procedure for the purpose of these razor blade evaluations. I am using the Karve C plate for every pass as the other razors might cause irritation if I used them for every pass, especially when testing sharper blades. 

Thus, I would be interested in your opinion of whether the Timeless TI .95 OC would be a suitable replacement for my Parker 24C OC.   My plan would be to use it primarily for WTG on my 1st pass. Since you have experience with several of the Karve plates, you might be able to help me determine whether to purchase one. While the Titanium razors are quite expensive, they are exquisite in appearance, especially if you pay to get the polished finish like I did. I am not a fan of the patina on bronze razors, nor the bead blast finish on stainless razors. Thus, I am willing to pay extra for polished Titanium. I would not consider getting a Karve Titanium OC as the teeth are too "chunky". I do not like the feel. The Timless OC teeth are more refined.

I'm not sure how the Timeless compares to the Parker 24C. I actually have a 24C, but haven't used it in ages. I do remember it had some bite to it. The Timeless Ti95 I have is almost ridiculously smooth. And the polish is remarkably good. I don't find the Ti95 to feel very aggressive. I kind of expected it to be, but I was very surprised by the comfort and smoothness of it. I also got the .68SB with it and that is just too much on the mild side for me. I do pay for polished finishes also. As of now, I have not seen a Karve Titanium razor. It doesn't bother me, but I know what you are saying about the teeth on their OC. I noticed that when taking a pic how huge they are! I started with the C plate you are using, and wanted a bit more. That is why I skipped the D and went to E. The SB-E, to me, is VERY efficient without feeling overly aggressive to me. I have it in aluminum, copper, and brass. I have the SB-C in brass. I have seen most folks mention they can't imagine going beyond the SB-C when I mention I have the E. I think that is the happy middleground for most people in mild/medium feel. It just feels mild to my preference.

I'm not sure how the Timeless compares to the Parker 24C. I actually have a 24C, but haven't used it in ages. I do remember it had some bite to it. The Timeless Ti95 I have is almost ridiculously smooth. And the polish is remarkably good. I don't find the Ti95 to feel very aggressive. I kind of expected it to be, but I was very surprised by the comfort and smoothness of it. I also got the .68SB with it and that is just too much on the mild side for me. I do pay for polished finishes also. As of now, I have not seen a Karve Titanium razor. It doesn't bother me, but I know what you are saying about the teeth on their OC. I noticed that when taking a pic how huge they are! I started with the C plate you are using, and wanted a bit more. That is why I skipped the D and went to E. The SB-E, to me, is VERY efficient without feeling overly aggressive to me. I have it in aluminum, copper, and brass. I have the SB-C in brass. I have seen most folks mention they can't imagine going beyond the SB-C when I mention I have the E. I think that is the happy middleground for most people in mild/medium feel. It just feels mild to my preference.

Thanks for the feedback on the Timeless OC 0.95. The Parker 24C can cause irritation if you try to shave off the comb, but if you shave off the cap, it is fairly smooth. I only use it WTG, so it is not a problem for me. I do not have any issue with the Karve D plate, but might if I tried using it ATG. I could probably use the E plate WTG with no issue. If I were to get the Karve, I would have to go 0with the SB as I do not like the OC. It sounds like the Timeless TI95 OC might be a little more aggressive than the Karve D plate, whereas the TI 95 SB might be similar to the D plate. For my skin, smooth is ideal. To avoid spending the entire cost of a new Timeless, I guess I could pick up the TI95 OC base plate only and then add the rest if I like it, but a new razor might be a candidate for my Christmas present.

Vidyut Zorrik Super Platinum- Take #2

After my poor shave on Friday with the Zorrik blade, I got to thinking. The Zorrik blade sells for $14 per 100 blades. Can a blade at that price level really be as bad as my previous shave indicated? Although my plan was to consider the Zorrik a failure and move on to the Lord Cool blade, I decided to try another Zorrik blade from the same tuck as the original blade. My results were significantly improved. The blade was sharp enough to go through my two day beard with only minimal resistance. I did not notice any blade roughness during the shave and was able to do normal buffing strokes on my clean-up pass. I got minor feedback when applying witch hazel. Thus, while this shave was far from superb, it was much improved over the 1st blade.

Based on today's shave, I am now increasing the rating of the Zorrik Super Platinum to 4 sharpness / 4 smoothness. It is still not a blade I would recommend for shavers with tough beards, but it is a blade I could use as long as I don't get a bad example. I am glad I decided to try another Zorrik blade so I did not mislead readers.

Rather than trying a second shave with this blade, I will move on to the Lord Cool blade for Tuesday's shave.

Evaluation of Lord Cool Blade - Fail

This was unpleasant. The blade offered significant resistance on the WTG pass with my two-day beard. Furthermore, the blade felt very rough, especially on my neck. I was not able to shave ATG on my neck nor was I able to use buffing strokes. Thus, I was unable to get even a socially acceptable shave using the Lord Cool blade. Just in case I picked a bad blade, I will try another Cool blade tomorrow with only one day beard growth. If that provides a better shave, I will try it again on Friday with a two-day beard.

For now, I am rating this blade 3 on sharpness and 2.5 on smoothness. I am not even looking forward to trying another Cool blade tomorrow. (See the results of Take 2 in the next post.)

This is the last blade that I had originally planned to do in my evaluation of lesser known blades. However, I did add a couple of blades sent to me by other members. These included Timor Stainless and Derby Premium. However, there are other blades that were requested by other members as well as some other blades I have used previously. Thus, I plan to continue the evaluations.

Lord Cool Blade- Take 2!

Normally, I have been doing the evaluations every two days to provide more of a challenge for the blades which makes it easier to distinguish sharpness levels. Because yesterday's shave with the Lord Cool blade was a fail, I decided to try again with a new blade tackling only one day of beard growth.

Before installing the new blade in the razor, I tried to use the blade from yesterday for a couple of strokes. Not happening! The previous blade was harsh.

I was not looking forward to trying another Cool blade, but I was pleasantly surprised. The 2nd blade from the same pack was significantly better than the 1st. There was some blade resistance, even with only one day of beard growth. However, the blade was reasonably smooth and I was able to complete my four-pass shave. I was able to shave my neck ATG and I was able to use buffing strokes on the clean-up pass. The shave was still not as close as I normally expect, but it might qualify as a DFS. When I applied witch hazel, I got minimal feedback.

Based on the performance of the 2nd blade, I am elevating the rating of Cool blades to 3.5 sharpness, 4 smoothness, but this is subject to change after I use the same blade for a second shave on Friday morning with two days of beard growth. If this rating holds, I would recommend this blade to those who shave daily and do not have a tough beard. However, it is not a blade that I would enjoy using. At a price point of $8 per 100 blade it might be a good value for some shavers, but not for me.

Update on Lord Cool - Take 2!

While I did not like my shave with the first Lord Cool blade I tried, the second blade has performed well. On my 2nd shave with this blade, I did experience some blade resistance during my WTG pass with my two-day beard growth. While I prefer a sharper blade, the blade was acceptable. The blade was smooth enough that I was able to complete my four-pass shave, including buffing strokes. I achieved a typical near-BBS shave. When applying witch hazel after the shave, I did experience minor feedback, so the blade was not as smooth as some, but it was certainly acceptable.

Thus, I am leaving the over rating for the Lord Cool blade as 3.5 sharpness, 4 smoothness. Since this is an inexpensive blade at $8 per 100 blades in bulk, it might be a good value for shavers not requiring sharper blades.

This is the last of the original blades I intended to evaluate. Most of the blades were blades that I had not tried previously and that are not well known in the shaving space. However, I intend to continue the evaluations with blades that I have used previously. I will start with some lesser known blades and conclude with some better known PPI blades which might still be available, but are no longer being produced in Russia. Since some of these blades will be familiar to many, the ratings might provide a referece against which you can compare blades with which you are less familiar.

In the next post, I will provide a link to the spreadsheet that has all of the results of this evaluation along with some notes as to what each data category means.