RayClem's Blade Evaluations

Today's shave features the Derby Premium blade. Bruce BJP was kind enough to send me a few for evaluation purposes.

Before shaving with the Derby, I decided to take a few strokes with the Asco blades. They were sharp enough to deal with my two-day beard. Thus, I am adjusting the sharpness rating upward to 4.0. They are still not as sharp as the Silver Star and are not as smooth, either. I now rate the Asco blades 4.0 sharpness, 3.5 smoothness vs Silver Star is rated 4.5 sharpness, 4.5 smoothness. Since they are priced similarly, I still recommend Silver Star over Asco.

As I explained in a previous email, I was not sure what to expect from the Derby Premium blade made in Turkey.However, I found them to sharp enough to deal with my two-day beard without any tugging. I did note that the blades provide significant audible feedback during the shave, which I presume means the blades are fairly thin. The blades felt smooth during use, so I attempted to get a normal near-BBS shave using buffing strokes. However, I got significant feedback when I applied witch hazel. Thus, I want to wait until Wednesdays shave to rate these blades.

Later during the evaluations, I will plan to evaluate Parker Premium Platinum blades, which I believe are made by Derby. It may well be that the Derby Premium and the Parker Premium are the same blade.

Update on Derby Premium

This was my second shave with the Derby blades. I had two-day beard growth. As with the 1st shave, the blades were sharp enough that the razor easily went through my whiskers with little resistance. The blades did appear to be smoother than on the first shave. I was able to get a near-BBS shave with minimal irritation. I was delighted with this result as I did not expect the blades to be that good. I rated the blade as 4.5 sharpness and 4.5 smoothness. This places the blade on par with Lord Silver Star and Personna Platinum Chrome.

The Derby Premium blades are priced at $10 per 100, which is a very good value. Since the Personna Platinum blades sell for more than twice that, I would have to recommend the Derby Premium blades. That pains me to say as I love Personna Platinum, but the Derby Premium are a better value. The Silver Star blades sell for only $8 per 100 blades, so at first glance they seem to be a better value. However. the complex coating on the Derby Premium blades should allow them to be used longer than the Silver Star blades which only have a polymer coating. Unfortunately, I do not have time to explore blade longevity in this evaluation, maybe in the future.

Based on the performance of these Derby Premium blades and my prior experience with Parker Premium blades, I have to say that the two blades are quite similar, perhaps even identical. The Parker blades are slightly more expensive. After completing my testing of blades new to my collection, I will go back to revisit some blades that I have used in the past.

For Friday's shave, I plan to use the Zorrik Super Platinum blade produced by Vidyut in India. There are a few reviews of this blade, but not many. I understand that there is also a Zorrik Super Stainless blade, but reviews of that blade have not been positive. I will only evaluate the Platinum coated blade.

After evaluation of the Zorrik blade, there is only one more blade left from my original list, That is the Lord Cool blade. Once evaluation of that blade is completed, I will post a spreadsheet of all the blades I have tested so far. It will be in a format that will allow you to sort the results in various ways to figure out which blades might work for you.

After doing that, I plan to go back and reevaluate some blades with which I have previous experience. At that time, i will include some blades that readers indicated they would like me to evaluate.

If at any time your experience differs from my subjective evaluations, please comment in the thread. I am preforming these evaluations with my beard, my face, my shaving soaps and brushes, and only one of my razors...the Karve SB C-plate, which is moderately aggressive. Some blades that did not seem to work for me, like Kai Stainless, might work in other circumstances. Later during the evaluation, I might try the Kai blades in a different razor to see if the performance improves. Pairing the right blade with the right razor is a key to success.

Update on Derby Premium

This was my second shave with the Derby blades. I had two-day beard growth. As with the 1st shave, the blades were sharp enough that the razor easily went through my whiskers with little resistance. The blades did appear to be smoother than on the first shave. I was able to get a near-BBS shave with minimal irritation. I was delighted with this result as I did not expect the blades to be that good. I rated the blade as 4.5 sharpness and 4.5 smoothness. This places the blade on par with Lord Silver Star and Personna Platinum Chrome.

The Derby Premium blades are priced at $10 per 100, which is a very good value. Since the Personna Platinum blades sell for more than twice that, I would have to recommend the Derby Premium blades. That pains me to say as I love Personna Platinum, but the Derby Premium are a better value. The Silver Star blades sell for only $8 per 100 blades, so at first glance they seem to be a better value. However. the complex coating on the Derby Premium blades should allow them to be used longer than the Silver Star blades which only have a polymer coating. Unfortunately, I do not have time to explore blade longevity in this evaluation, maybe in the future.

Based on the performance of these Derby Premium blades and my prior experience with Parker Premium blades, I have to say that the two blades are quite similar, perhaps even identical. The Parker blades are slightly more expensive. After completing my testing of blades new to my collection, I will go back to revisit some blades that I have used in the past.

For Friday's shave, I plan to use the Zorrik Super Platinum blade produced by Vidyut in India. There are a few reviews of this blade, but not many. I understand that there is also a Zorrik Super Stainless blade, but reviews of that blade have not been positive. I will only evaluate the Platinum coated blade.

After evaluation of the Zorrik blade, there is only one more blade left from my original list, That is the Lord Cool blade. Once evaluation of that blade is completed, I will post a spreadsheet of all the blades I have tested so far. It will be in a format that will allow you to sort the results in various ways to figure out which blades might work for you.

After doing that, I plan to go back and reevaluate some blades with which I have previous experience. At that time, i will include some blades that readers indicated they would like me to evaluate.

If at any time your experience differs from my subjective evaluations, please comment in the thread. I am preforming these evaluations with my beard, my face, my shaving soaps and brushes, and only one of my razors...the Karve SB C-plate, which is moderately aggressive. Some blades that did not seem to work for me, like Kai Stainless, might work in other circumstances. Later during the evaluation, I might try the Kai blades in a different razor to see if the performance improves. Pairing the right blade with the right razor is a key to success.

I have the Zorrik Super Stainless and my most recent experience with them was quite good. My last shave was in an OC Fatip and it was fantastic. Comfortable and super close. I assume you are pretty close to finished, here perhaps but I would be happy to send a couple of you wanted. I agree with the pairing concept. I used the Zorrik before this and I don't recall hating it, but I guess it was unremarkable also. This time around, I really was happy with it in the Fatip. There really is a difference in pairing. With the varying sharpness of a blade and the design of a razor, not all is equal with the same blade or razor.

Ray, have you tried the Vidyut Supermax Super Stainless blades in the blue/silver tucks? I'm curious if they are the same blade as the green/yellow tucks (Supermax Super Stainless) that you tested which go for double the price?

Also what numerical smoothness/sharpness rating do you give the Minora Stainless? I confess I enjoy the Minoras, quite sharp and very smooth for me.

I have not used the Zorrik Super Stainless, but one comment I saw indicated that the reviewer would rather "shave with a rusty knife."  I have no idea whether that is a justified comment. Many times experience with blades is due to the particular razor in which it is used and how good a lather is produced. There are a number of blades with which I have had poor experience in the past. Now that I have better razors, better shaving soaps, and better shaving technique, I plan to revisit them to see if they now perform better. 

I will start my review of Zorrik Super Platinum on Friday.

Ray, have you tried the Vidyut Supermax Super Stainless blades in the blue/silver tucks? I'm curious if they are the same blade as the green/yellow tucks (Supermax Super Stainless) that you tested which go for double the price?

Also what numerical smoothness/sharpness rating do you give the Minora Stainless? I confess I enjoy the Minoras, quite sharp and very smooth for me.

My review of the Vidyut Supermax Super Stainless blades were based on those in the blue/silver tucks. I have not tried the ones in the green/yellow tucks. I suspect they are the same blade marketed differently as the name and description seems to be the same. The blades in the blue/silver tucks are currently selling for $14.95 for 200 blades on Amazon vs $9.99 for 100 blades in the green/yellow packaging. The Razor Blade Club sells the blue/silver blades for $9.99 for 100 blades. It is a lot less expensive to distribute blades in 200 blade bulk packs, so it is less expensive to purchase that way. When I originally spotted them on Amazon, they were selling for $9.99 for 200 blades, but that is no longer the case.

I rated the Minora blades quite highly. I rated them as 4.5 on sharpness and 5 on smoothness. That places them in the company of King C Gillette and Wizamet Super Iridium. Those are all amazing blades. I liked them so well, that I purchased a 100 of the Minora blades. I wish the King C Gillette blades were sold in bulk packs. 

So far, none of the blades I have tested in this evaluation have rated 5 on sharpness. However, based on my experience with Feather Hi Stainless, Bic Chrome Platinum, Permasharp Super, Gillette Nacet, and 7 O'Clock Super Platinum (black), those blades are likely to rate 5 on sharpness. However, that is not necessarily a good thing for some shavers or some razors. A super-sharp blade in an overly aggressive razor can lead to nicks, weepers and/or skin irritation. While I love these blades (with the exception of Feather), they work best in less aggressive razors. When I get around to evaluating them in my Karve SB C-plate razor, I might find them to be a little too sharp for a comfortable shave in that razor. For shavers who do not need super-sharp blades, blades that are in the 4.0-4.5 range might be the sweet spot. Fortunately, a lot of blades fall into that mid-sharp to very sharp range.

Interesting that you perceive a similarity between Minora, Wizament SI and KcG as the Wizamets are my other big favorite. I enjoy KcG blades also but can get an equivalent shave with less expensive blades. I notice the latest KcG blades I received from Amazon are made in China rather than Russia, dated 2023.

Over the years, I seem to have gravitated toward more aggressive(efficient?) razors. My current top three are currently Blackbird, Wolfman wr2 1.25 and the Lupo 72 and 95. The Lupos likely being similar to a Karve CB C or D plate. I tend to favor smoothness above all in a blade but shy away from the super sharp blades like feather, nacet, etc. with those razors, especially the Wolfman. I've recently run across some real sleepers; cheaper blades that shave great for me such as the Treet 7 Days, Lord Platinum and a couple of the SuperMax models. Perhaps I'm one of those who is more comfy at 4.5 and below on sharpness with those specific razors. My whiskers are old and white but not super coarse and tough, except maybe on my chin.

Thanks for your response and input. I really learned to rely on your experience and skills at blade testing after following your many posts at another online forum so was delighted to find a place where you migrated. It takes a lot of time and effort to test and write reviews so cheers!
I look forward to your final thoughts and tally.

Sweeney

The Minora, Wizamet and King C Gillette blades shaver several things in common, but there are differences. All three are Gillette brands and all of my blades were produced by PPI in Russia. The three blades produced excellent four-pass shaves on the 1st two shaves with two-day beards. However, the Minora is polymer coated; the KCG is platinum coated; and the Wizamets are Iridium coated. Because polymer is softer than platinum, which is softer than iridium, the durability of these blades may well differ with subsequent shaves.

Gillette is no longer producing blades for export to NATO countries due to sanctions. PPI is likely to continue to produce blades for use within the Russian Federation and its allies.

As you indicated, as of 2023, King C Gillette blades are being produced in China; I believe in Shanghai. Some other brands are supposed to be moved to manufacturing facilities in India. At this time, I have not seen any India-produced blades of former PPI brands. However, I did read a post from someone who indicated that Astra Superior Platinum blades are now being made in India. That is not surprising as the Astra SP blades are one of Gillette's best sellers. Presumably, they would be the first blade moved to India. While those blades might be available in some countries, I have not yet seen any of the Indian Astra SP blades for sale by USA vendors. They are still advertising Russian stock.

As for your comment on blades for more aggressive razors, your comments are well received. While super sharp blades like Feather, BIC Chrome, and Nacet can make a less aggressive razor more efficient, it can also make an aggressive razor too aggressive for comfort. I have a Mulhe R41 that is plenty aggressive. I rarely use it as I have to be super careful of my shaving technique to avoid irritation. On those rare occasions when I dare to use it, I equip it with a mid-sharp, very smooth blade like the 7 O'Clock SharpEdge yellow. While I have not tested it, something like the Laser Ultra Triple Coated blades might also work.

Like you, I love finding sleeper blades as they can often provide great performance at inexpensive prices. Some "sleeper" blades I really like are: Sharp titanium by Durablade that also makes the 7 AM blades, and Dorco Prime Platinum STP301, and Parker Super Platinum, and SuperMax Blue Diamond Platinum. These are all great blades that can be purchased in bulk for under $13 for 100 blades, yet many people have never heard of them. These "sleepers" are some of the blades I will evaluate over the coming weeks. Because most former Gillette PPI blades are well known, my focus will be on blades manufactured outside Russia.


Correction/Addendum: In perusing blades on Amazon I spotted one listing for Astra SP blades that were labeled "Made in India". However, there were also several others that appeared to still come from Russia. If you want Russian Astras, grab them before they are gone. If you want Indian Astras, be careful in placing your order.

Vidyut Zorrik - Fail
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(Please see update on Zorrik blades in post #97. Apparently the blade used for this failed shave was bad and not representative of the product.)
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Today's shave was the first and the last using the Zorrik Super Platinum blade produced by Vidyut in India. It is rare for me to have a bad shave, but today's shave was one of them.

I began the shave with the Derby Premium blade in the Karve C-plate razor. I took a few strokes with that blade to remind me of how the Derby Premium performed. Then I installed the Zorrik blade in the razor. I should have left the Derby blade in the razor as it was still sharp and smooth.

As soon as I started using the Zorrik, I knew I was in for a tough shave. The blade felt rough on my skin and the edge was not sharp enough to slice through my beard without tugging. I even got a couple of weepers on my chin, something that is unusual. Normally, I do a four-pass shave, including buffing strokes, in order to achieve a near-BBS shave. I do not pursue full BBS as my skin is too sensitive, but I normally get BBS on my cheeks and neck and DFS on my chin and jawline. Since using these blades was uncomfortable, I stopped after three passes and did not dare try buffing strokes. The only close shave I got was on that part of my cheek on which I used the Derby Premium blades one pass WTG. One pass with the Derby Premium was closer than three passes with the Zorrik. Everywhere else might be considered socially acceptable, but it was far below my standard.


Even though I did not try for BBS, I still got significant feedback when I splashed witch hazel on my face.

Thus, I am rating these blades 2.5 on sharpness and 2.5 on smoothness. This is the worst blade I have evaluated. Even though I did not enjoy my experience using Kai blades, at least I could use them. That was not the case with Zorrik blades. Some blades that become sharper on the 2nd shave as the coating wears off. However, that often comes with a loss in smoothness. In this case, neither the sharpness or smoothness was acceptable. I doubt the performance on the 2nd shave is going to become acceptable.

Another recent thread talks about the possibility of honing DE razor blades on a glass or ceramic hone to improve performance. Perhaps honing would improve the performance of the Zorrik blades. However, since these blades cost $14 per 100, I expect the manufacturer to do the honing for me. With poor performance and a price higher than many better blades, these are a poor value.

I have used blades in the past that have performed as poorly as the Zorrik blades. I also found Shark Super Chrome blades to be somewhat dull and rough. Although I find Derby Extra blades to be somewhat dull, at least they are smooth.

I plan to end the evaluation of the Zorrik blades after this one shave unless someone replies to this post suggesting that I must have gotten a bad blade. Thus, if anyone has had a good experience with Zorrik blades, I would be most anxious to hear their comments.

Unless I receive comments defending the Zorrik blades, my next shave with be with the Lord Cool Super Stainless. That shave is planned for Sunday morning, although I might move it back to Saturday evening since today's shave with the Zorrik was so poor that I will have a two-day beard after a day and a half.

Per my note at the end of post #88, Amazon indicates that they now have Astra SP blades from India available. I have placed an order for 100 blades that should arrive by Monday. Although I am not a fan of Astra SP blades from Russia, I was willing to risk purchasing the blades form India hoping that they might be sharper and smoother than the older Russian blades I have tried. I will try to evaluate them late next week so those of you who might be interested in the new Astra SP blades will have some information on which to base your purchasing decisions.

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Update

Although the blades I ordered from Amazon clearly were advertised as "Made in India", the blades I received were marked "Made in Russia". I have not yet decided whether to return the blades as the cost of the blades is hardly worth the effort of sending them back.

Presumably, the blades are newer than the black ink printed blades I have although the packaging is identical to some blades I purchase a few years ago. The packaging is dated 2017. Thus, I do not know if they are older blades, newer blades in old packaging, or counterfeit blades. Unless you love the Astra SP blades from Russia, I do not recommend your purchasing them until blades "Made in India" are better established in the supply chain.