Post your latest progression.

This sounds to me like a microtome razor that is purposefully manufactured wth a wedge on one side and a hollow on the other side. While it is kamisori-like in this respect, it was originally designed to be used in the medical profession to cut very thin slices of tissue.  At least that is my understanding about these types of blades. People sometmes don't divulge that they are microtome blades (or possibly don't know) when selling them. Glad to see you were able to work with this quirk and end up with a nice working blade.

I don't think this is an intentionally asymmetrical grind. Honing with the engraved face up, I have to use a fairly pronounced roll from heel to toe. With the engraved side down, the stroke is flat and even. I'm not sure if it is a warp, poor honing from one of the owners somewhere down the line, or what. There is not a lot of wear on the spine, though there is some, and there is more now, since I spent 3 hours trying to set the bevel without tape.

Once I found the wobble and adjusted my strokes, the entire progression took less than an hour...

Wow, interesting that someone did that.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/6196216482...5044200015 cheers.


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So...my W&B Golden Concave was in scales from the W&B Special, but they were cracked, and the fit was loose. So I traced them onto to some teak, and made new ones. I used canvas micarta as a spacer/wedge.



My shaping is getting better, but I am still a ways from being able to start selling restored blades and custom handles...I have a few more pieces of equipment to get to improve my consistency...

[Image: 1dfdcc6eabce40a17f02dd177b66ff31.jpg] last night I spent a bit of time putting this Ohira Suita through its paces.lots of fun.

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I've started working with pocket and kitchen knives a lot recently. As a bit of a challenge, my boss brought me 2 of his wife's kitchen knives that were beat to heck...chips and frowns, warped steel, and lots of issues. He was testing me, so I put myself to the challenge, and really worked these blades.

It took about 2 1/2 hours each to get good bevels set and work out al of the chips and frowns in them, but they came out beautifully, as far as I was concerned.

This morning...he pulled me aside and thanked me, but made a caveat; "For the average person in the average kitchen...they are almost too sharp. Momma was cutting squash like hot butter. You put an edge like that on a hunting knife and you have a real winner, but for regular kitchen knives, you might want to back off a little bit."

I took it as a compliment. Having a someone tell me the knives they couldn't even put a bad edge on are now "almost too sharp" makes me happy. They were incredibly challenging blades to work on, and evidently, I ACED the test!

Locally, we are a HUGE rural community with a large hunting and fishing population, as well as working ranches, mule pack stations, and rock climbing. I'm going to start offering repairs and sharpening services for pocket, hunting, and kitchen knives through the local outdoors shops. Nothing huge, but every edge teaches me more, and if I can make a couple bucks while putting myself up to whatever challenges come my way, I'm all about earning the experience...

I don't have any pictures, but I wanted to share...

Put this JR Torrey 5/8 extra hollow to the Shoubudani 100 tonight. Started with a fairly heavy slurry, and progressed through several dilutions until she was sticking like velcro with just clear water. She's tree-topping arm hair and HHT has hair jumping out of the way.

I'll give her a test shave tomorrow evening...

The last couple of nights I have been experimenting with an Imperia la Roccia slurry stone and my Shoubudani type 100. Last night it provided one of the best edges I've ever produced. Tonight it produced the best edge this blade has ever seen.

Wade & Butcher Invincible 11/16 belly hollow retouched on Shoubudani type 100 using ILR slurry stone diluted twice until clear water.
[Image: 908a21f44ebe02fa6bab99e194c62450.jpg]

The shave of this retouch was simply fantastic. Best this blade has ever been.


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I wanted to reset the bevel on the George Wostenholm 6/8 because it was never quite as sharp as some of my other edges. I figured, I just received some new coarse stones within the last couple of days, so no better time than the present to sit down and try out my new bevel setter...


Stones from Left to Right:
Mutukusuyama JNS 1k; Mutukusuyama Red Aoto 3-4k; Naniwa SS 10k; Shoubudani type 100 with tomo nagura and ILR slurry stone

Razors top and bottom:
George Wostenholm IXL Celebrated hollow

Kobar Solingen "Sunday" 5/8 full hollow

I really enjoyed using the new Mutukusuyama stones. The 1k was very reasonably quick and provided a smooth bevel. The speed and feedback both were better than the Naniwa Specialty 1k. A lot harder, but very decent speed. The Red Aoto is very soft, but takes out the 1k scratches very quickly. Going from the Red Aoto 3-4k to the Naniwa 10k was actually a lot easier than anticipated. The Aoto is so soft that the scratches were very easy to remove with the 10k. Within about 15 minutes of starting I was working up a slurry with the tomo nagura on the Shoubudani type 100. 3 dilutions of tomo slurry, followed by ILR slurry through 1 dilution. Finished on clear water.

Both edges were popping hair, and the shave off the Wostenholm tonight was the probably the best shave this razor has ever given. Smooth, clean, and very comfortable. Not quite a BBS, but a definitely a DFS with great comfort.

The Kobar will be test shaved tomorrow. I have some teak for scales for this razor because the original scales are warped beyond repair. I wanted to make sure it would take a good edge before I made the scales, and it definitely appears to have taken a really nice edge. Test shave will prove it one way or the other tomorrow night...

[Image: 56de845d035a2d1f0d19df64a483c928.jpg] chosera 1k,chosera 800 grit cleaning stone,Shobu type100 koppa,Nakayama Nagura, dmt d3c card, dmt d3E card.

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