New Shaver Questions

I would appreciate some input in trying to find the best double edged and Gem type razor for me.

The challenge I face after two months of wet shaving are two things: blood and lack of a close shave. The blood occurs in small amounts - I usually don't need a styptic pencil.

I have a Merkur 38HD, which has worked fairly well, though I see blood with Feather blades. I've gotten good shaves with a Gillette Flair tip as well.

I'm not sure i've found the right blades.

The Feathers, while very consistent, are mighty sharp. I'm thinking that I have sensitive skin which cuts pretty easily.

My best shave with a safety razor was the Gillette Flair Tip with a Shark blade.

The worst double edge shave has been with a Gillette Black Beauty which is adjustable.

I have Maggard's most aggressive razor, though run into the same thing as I do with the rest of them, which is blood.

Blades that haven't been as good are Tiger, Astra, Rapira, Eddison Stainless and Wilkinson Sword. I do have a large assortment of sample blades, including Personna Lab Blue, Gillette 7 O'Clock Sharp Edge, Personna Platinum Super Stainless and a bunch more.

While wanting to avoid controversy in this post, my best luck for comfortable and close shaves are with the OneBlade with either the GEM or the Feather 10.



So, here are my questions:


1. I don't want to give up on double edge razors. Based on the info I've shared, what suggestions do you have?
2. The Merkur 38HD uses the same head as the 34C. Is there much difference in performance due to the 38HD being heavier?
3. Are there any of the vintage razors using the GEM blade that are less aggressive than the others?
4. Are less aggressive razors usually better for sensitive skin?
5. Is pre-shave oil needed? It seems to me that good tallow soaps between $10-$20 perform just fine without it.

Thanks!

I can't answer all your questions, in fact I can't answer any, but I can give you my thoughts on them

1. Keep trying this, I think, it the best advice here. Try different blades, I like Voskhods myself, but also the Personna Med Preps as well. As far as razors go, if you're willing to put out some more cash, maybe try and find a Gillette Adjustable razor on Ebay or somewhere and try that. That way you can dial in on the aggressiveness while you work on technique some more

3. I don't know for sure on that, but my first GEM razor was the G Bar kind and that to me is a nice razor to start at, I didn't find mine overly aggressive.

4. Personally, I think for sensitive skin it comes down to technique and prep. I have sensitive skin as well and I can use an aggressive razor and I'm fine as long as my prep is up to par. If I don't prep well, I bleed plenty.

5. Nope! Again, all subjective XD You don't need to use it if you find you don't need it. I use it since I find it does help, but I also use the Proraso pre-shave creams, Dreadnaught Oil and PAA pre-shave soaps. If I shower ahead of my shave I'll use the oil or cream, if I don't shower I'll use the soap instead

Not much, but I hope it helps

I understand exactly how you feel.  My conundrum is with straight razors vs. DE/SE.  I used my OneBlade yesterday for a change and didn't even came close to the quality shaves I'm been getting with straight razors.  Bunch of nice razors and have no interest on using them, lol....

If you like your GEM single edge safety razor, I highly recommend an Ever Ready 1914 or 1924. Those are very smooth and efficient razors. I don't bother with DEs any more. There were a few good, affordable ones that I tried (iKon 101/102, Gillette NEW SC), but SEs shave better for me.

I understand exactly how you feel.  My conundrum is with straight razors vs. DE/SE.  I used my OneBlade yesterday for a change and didn't even came close to the quality shaves I'm been getting with straight razors.  Bunch of nice razors and have no interest on using them, lol....

I plan on trying straight razors once I have better skill. I have a guy within driving distance that can sharpen them. Right now though, I want more skill before having a blade that sharp up against my jugular.

So, here are my questions:


1. I don't want to give up on double edge razors.  Based on the info I've shared, what suggestions do you have?

I've been here when I started shaving too. I could never get that great shave I keep reading about with a DE. Almost from the first shave with a SE though I could finally understand what everyone was raving about. I've tried many differed DE razors and most of the blades. Those thin ribbons of steel will not come near my face again.

2. The Merkur 38HD uses the same head as the 34C.  Is there much difference in performance due to the 38HD being heavier?

Heavier razors tend to be more aggressive.

3. Are there any of the vintage razors using the GEM blade that are less aggressive than the others?

The milder SE razors that I would recommend are the Feather Weight, Heavy Flat Top (aka G-bar), Flying Wing MicroMatic (aka bullet tip), 1912, & 1914.

4. Are less aggressive razors usually better for sensitive skin?

Less aggressive will typically mean less beard reduction per pass which would likely mean less risk for nicks, cuts, & irritation. However, it could also mean more passes. These extra passes can lead to irritation even with a milder razor. More aggression can reduce the number of passes needed, but at higher risk during the shave.

5. Is pre-shave oil needed?  It seems to me that good tallow soaps between $10-$20 perform just fine without it.

I have oily skin so I make my own PSO. When I do try a PSO, it just makes my skin tacky and the shave less than slick.

Thanks!

Anytime.

I didn't get shaves as good as cartridges for a while when I switched to DE. I had a little better luck with injectors. I was getting frustrated. I refused to give up.

Then one day something just clicked. I started getting better shaves. Not just as good as the shaves I could get with a cartridge. Better.

I focused on beard reduction. I didn't use pressure. I didn't go over the same spot without reapplying lather. Took three passes and touch ups. Lather in between. Took my time. So much more time than it takes to shave with a cartridge. I was determined though.

No pressure was my first problem. I had never learned how to shave with a single blade. I had years of bad habits to break. Years of mindless muscle memory to overcome.

I got through it. The shaves got so much better. The speed came eventually. I had to crawl at the beginning. Once it did click the rest sort of fell in to place.

I would say pick a setup. Limit the variables so that you can overcome blaming the blade or the razor or the lather. Master the razor. Master the soap. Master the blades. Then branch out. Establish your technique before building on it.

It took me a long time to get to the Zen stage. Had my fair share of bad shaves that just weren't close enough and nicks and a raw neck and uneven sideburns.

I pushed through it by taking a step back. Only then was I able to make progress moving forward.

Like riding a bike though, once you master the skills you have them.

You can do it. I have no doubt about it.

I understand the frustration because I was just where you are now myself at one point. It was worth it to me. The satisfaction of knowing that I can walk past the security locked case of overpriced training wheeled cartridges.

Set aside extra time for your next shave. Use a cotton ball and map out the direction of your beard. Don't worry about going against the grain all over. Concentrate on going with it on every different spot. Take short and deliberate strokes with only the weight of the razor.

The bad habits get overtaken by the repetition of the good ones. Just takes time.

Also, try and think about your arm as an axe handle. Lock your wrist. Point your elbow out and use it as a fulcrum. Only pivot at the elbow. Not the wrist. DE and SE razors don't pivot. You do. Keep your angle consistent at every turn on every contour of your face. That's why it's important to take short strokes. Concentrate on the consistent angle.

Most of all enjoy the time and don't sweat it. It's a chore that doesn't have to be a pain. You can enjoy the chore. Look forward to it. When you get a bad shave, tell yourself the truth, the next shave IS going to be better. Because it's true.

Most noobs (and maybe some who've been blade shaving for quite some time) use too much pressure. It's especially difficult to break the habit if one comes to blades from cartridges. If you can see the skin deforming inwards when the razor passes over it's too much pressure. Pressure = blood One should actually have a very thin layer of lather remaining after the blade passes over if the lather quality and pressure are right.

Good advice so far; Sharpspine knows his SE razors and is spot on in razor suggestions.

I cannot add much more than what has already been said.

However, if you are enjoying your OneBlade and your SE razor, why be concerned with DEs?
I would continue to refine and perfect your technique with the SE razors, then move on to straights to see if you can get on with them.
If you can, then you don't have to worry about DE razors. Nonetheless, if straights don't work out for you, then go back to DEs to see if you can perfect your technique with them or just continue to experiment with SE razors.

I only use approximately 2-3 DE razors and I have no regrets.
Once you find what works best for you, you'll be much happier with great shaves.

Good luck.

Pete123, there's some really good advice posted already in this thread.

One thing I wonder is how is your lather? The reason I ask this is because for about the first year traditional wet shaving, I had very inconsistent results shaving and realized that my lather was inconsistent. I hadn't really settled on what works best for me. Most of my lathers were no where near hydrated enough to achieve a comfortable shave. So, now almost two years in, my lather is pretty consistent and my shaves have been following along the same.

Another thing that has been suggested that I made the mistake of doing was making all kinds of changes, all at once, and all of the time. Someone once told me to find a basic set-up(razor, blade, brush, & soap) that works OK for me and then just use that same set-up for a month straight. Once you take out the variables and work with a consistent set of tools over a length of time, the shaves start to become more consistent, too. I followed that advise for a whole month straight and my technique with everything improved immensely.

Good luck!