New Shaver Question

Hey! So I've been using a DE razor for a few weeks now, and my shaves have been pretty close, but I am getting nicks and razor burn no matter how little pressure I apply. I don't think I have sensitive skin because cartridge razors never gave me any major issues.

I have a beard so I only shave my neck. I wouldn't say my hair is very thick, but it is coarse. The issue I think I'm having is that I am always getting tugging when I go against, or even across the grain--even after two passes with the grain.

I started with Derby Extra blades, and I'm using a RazoRock Lupo .72. I thought the Derby's might be too dull, so I got some Astra SPs, which seem a bit sharper, I guess, but haven't really improved anything. I still get tugging.

I don't fully understand the mild/aggression as it affects the quality of the shave. I'm not sure if my hair type is suited for a particular blade/razor combination or what...

Thanks very much for sharing any knowledge on this topic!

Hey! So I've been using a DE razor for a few weeks now, and my shaves have been pretty close, but I am getting nicks and razor burn no matter how little pressure I apply. I don't think I have sensitive skin because cartridge razors never gave me any major issues.

I have a beard so I only shave my neck. I wouldn't say my hair is very thick, but it is coarse. The issue I think I'm having is that I am always getting tugging when I go against, or even across the grain--even after two passes with the grain.

I started with Derby Extra blades, and I'm using a RazoRock Lupo .72. I thought the Derby's might be too dull, so I got some Astra SPs, which seem a bit sharper, I guess, but haven't really improved anything. I still get tugging.

I don't fully understand the mild/aggression as it affects the quality of the shave. I'm not sure if my hair type is suited for a particular blade/razor combination or what...

Thanks very much for sharing any knowledge on this topic!

I had the same problem and started using a preshave soap before my shave. The irritation, and weepers went away after that.

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Thanks for the tip. I am using Prorasso soap to shave.. not sure if that is a preshave soap, though.

How is the slickness of your soap?  Load more soap in your brush.  Super slick skin when you rinse would indicate good protection of skin from the sharp blade.  Proraso has not been in the “slick” category for me. Might want to try something more slick like Sir Henrys or Stirling.  Good move from Derby to Astra.

Why don’t you outline your routine so we can get an idea of what you are doing before anyone suggests what you ought to be doing. Also what soap or cream and post shave products are you using?i

Thanks for the tip. I am using Prorasso soap to shave.. not sure if that is a preshave soap, though.

It can be used as a preshave. I've used it to wash my face prior to shaving. It aids in softening your whiskers and makes them easier to cut.

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How is the slickness of your soap?  Load more soap in your brush.  Super slick skin when you rinse would indicate good protection of skin from the sharp blade.  Proraso has not been in the “slick” category for me. Might want to try something more slick like Sir Henrys or Stirling.  Good move from Derby to Astra.

Thanks. I guess I will try another soap/cream. I wouldn't have described the Proraso I'm using as slick, no.

Why don’t you outline your routine so we can get an idea of what you are doing before anyone suggests what you ought to be doing. Also what soap or cream and post shave products are you using?i

I usually use a cloth on my neck for 30 seconds or so, then soak it with hot water again and go for another few seconds. Then I'll lather and shave. I sometimes notice a bit of razor burn the first pass, but normally it's once I go cross/against the grain that I really notice it. I will usually get a couple nicks, too. I think these stem from the tugging, though--same with the razor burn.

I use a toner and balm after, but I'm more concerned with the actual shave.

Why don’t you outline your routine so we can get an idea of what you are doing before anyone suggests what you ought to be doing. Also what soap or cream and post shave products are you using?i

I usually use a cloth on my neck for 30 seconds or so, then soak it with hot water again and go for another few seconds. Then I'll lather and shave. I sometimes notice a bit of razor burn the first pass, but normally it's once I go cross/against the grain that I really notice it. I will usually get a couple nicks, too. I think these stem from the tugging, though--same with the razor burn.

I use a toner and balm after, but I'm more concerned with the actual shave.

How frequently do you shave? What do you use for soap/cream? Do you apply it with a brush? I find the Lupo in both blade gaps to be an aggressive razor. Some razors are better/worse for novices. For me aggressive razors can be uncomfortable and cause irritation especially if whatever software I’m using or my prep might not be ideal. I think you could stretch your facecloth soak to a minute or two.
Have you tried using an alum block when rinsing?

I asked about shaving frequency because if you leave it for more than a couple of days (depending on your rate of growth) then longer whiskers can make tugging worse. Usually tugging is caused by a dull blade though not always. As I said above, I don’t consider the Lupo to be a good starter razor. You might want to try something like the Edwin Jagger DE89 which is reasonably priced and a great starter razor or the Rockwell 6s on plate 2 or 3 which is pretty mild but does the job. The advantage to the Rockwell is that if you’re actually interested in saving money, it could be the only razor you’d ever need with all 6 plate settings so even though it costs a little more initially than the EJ it’s essentially 6 razors. 

You should also get some blade sampler packs and try as many different blade - razor combinations as possible with any razor you try. Interestingly blade razor combinations are highly subjective and you will find that the same razor can feel quite different to you depending on the blade you load. Try as many as you can to find the combinations that work best for you. 

The fact that you just shave your neck is significant. It’s the most irritation prone area for most men. I’d avoid multi-pass shaves until you get a handle on the irritation (alum block) and lock in your technique.