Haircut & Shave P076 17-4 SB & OC Passaround Review – World Class Artisanal Craftsman

My last shave with this wonderful razor. Parting is sorrowful, indeed! I used the H&S OC for the right side of my face & the WR1 .67 OC for the left side.

I'm going to try something that I'm not good at - brevity! Both razors shaved very smooth & efficiently. Balance & feedback are both exceptional. Teeth spacing on the H&S are spaced further apart than the WR1, which is neither a positive or negative, just an observation. The efficiency of both razors is similar, I am still smooth & clean-shaven 14 hours after my shave. For smoothness, the WR1 wins by a slight margin. The H&S 17-4 P076 is a beautiful razor that gives superb shaves. I've used both SB & OC. The SB has a bit less blade feel but provides an absolutely wonderful shave. The OC has a little more blade feel & also provides a wonderful shave. Neither was difficult to find the proper angle for optimum cutting, & they had a fairly wide band of angle to get said optimal shave.

I used the GD Aion & Asinus soaps. I used the Aion more than the Asinus. I tried lathering the Aion with a badger, synthetic, & boar. It took work, but I was able to lather with badger & synthetic, but not with the boar. The Asinus I lathered with synthetic & badger. Aion: A lot of work & time to build a good lather, & temperamental, 3/5; average Slickness & Residual Slickness, 3/5; Scent - 1/5, Post Shave - 4/5. Asinus: Latherability, 4/5; Slickness, 4/5; Residual Slickness, 3/5; Scent, this was a stale old soap smell, 1/5; Post Shave, 4/5. I waited several hours before applying Ethos Skin Food splash so I can fairly evaluate the post-shave attributes of the soap.

Thank you, Aji for designing & bringing to market such a glorious razor. This is going to be a RAD killer for many folks. I see an H&S razor in my den in the near future. I want to try the titanium P076 before I pull the trigger on one. And thank you DanLaw for organizing this pass around. 

Haircut & Shave has just released their new P076 17-4 in Dual Comb for review and passaround.  Our initial review of the original release of SB and OC versions has previously been received quite favourably and won't be rehashed here other than to focus on the items unique to this production razor.  For those wanting to read the original reviews and passaround perspectives to date, simply click the link: https://damnfineshave.com/thread-haircut...-craftsman

Haircut & Shave remains laser focused on meeting customer demand for new product and to this end has been committed to releasing Dual Comb versions of their P076 line in 17-4 stainless and titanium.  Such has been the overwhelming demand for razors that Aji has been busy sending out releases of SB and OC versions literally nonstop as fast as one can produce hand made razors representing the peak of perfection requiring a day just to polish by hand....  Hitherto, in order to maintain flow amongst passaround participants, the paired P076 17-4 SB and OC razors had migrated from East to West Coast.  This second razor possessing both combs, allows us to split the passaround between the coasts cutting the time to complete the passaround by half and also making shipping/insurance less expensive for participants - an added bonus being some (self included) prefer DC razors for mixing OC first passes with SB subsequent cleaning passes.

For those thinking they may be missing something by virtue of residing on the "wrong" coast for trialing the razor of their choice, can assure that there is absolutely nothing missing regarding quality between the two passarounds nor is there any delta in the shaving experience.  The two passarounds are about as equally matched regarding quality and shave experience as dueling pistols and would trust my life to either package in assessing H&S P076 17-4 as a potential purchaser.

Further, Aji has decided to include his Haircut & Shave branded Creme and AfterShave Balm! 

Aji's attention to quality control and finishing really deserves mention.  Recently borrowed a Wolfman standard finish razor only to have my heart sink when opening the package - it presented as a lower range Rockwell - seriously, the horse has already left the barn regarding pricing and having to wait a year; why not go all in and purchase a fully rendered Wolfman?!  This isn't to denigrate Wolfman but rather to demonstrate how people are compromising standards to achieve volume.  Having been without a H&S in possession since sending off the P076 Ti DC nearly 2 months ago, and "stuck" with my personal array of fully executed high polish duFour Wolfman and BBS1 razors, it was surprising upon opening the package just how well made are H&S razors.  Sure, we discuss endlessly the incredible quality and craftsmanship of Aji's razors but when reencountering them, one is yet shocked at their damned perfection.  All joking regarding being "stuck" with Wolfman razors aside, H&S is the only current production razor brand encountered that can stand toe to toe on an equal footing with a real deal fully finished Wolfman - period and very abrupt, very hard stop.  But having experienced it in the past and repeatedly discussing it nonetheless pales next to viewing and handling the H&S razors.  Despite having handled more H&S products than likely anybody excepting Aji, I am taken aback each time as to their amazing world class standards of fit and finish.  Moreover, the design is unique adding to the legend being created - not only does one immediately know by the quality just how special these razors are but they stand apart by look too, akin to warriors of ancient history or fighter pilot aces of old that would mark their kit conspicuously so potential combatants would know exactly who they were up against.  It takes courage and pride to so differentiate oneself in a world where getting along quietly is the strategy advocated by the powers that be and the safety of the herd entrenched in every facet of civilized life.  To illustrate the exceptional quality, have been hesitant to include a second photo of the H&S P076 17-4 DC because crepe paper was used as a base which reflected midway up the top cap mimicking stain BUT, paying attention to detail, notice how every crinkle of the crepe paper is captured better than a mirror in reflection. 

Using the razor is again a revelation that a major manufacturer has been established neck and neck at the top of the pecking order.  Irrespective of how fondly I had remembered the shave experience, the H&S P076 17-4 DC shocked me back into reality repeatedly muttering to self that: "Damn, this is an incredible razor as good as my favourite duFour razors costing in some cases multiples more.".  Personally much prefer a DC razor and every personal DE razor where it could be so speced is a DC in Mirror polish but this is just frankly the best of the lot.  The shave is close as a 0,80+ WR1 Wolfman BUT the feel is somewhere around a 0,67 WR1: amazing that almost everybody can now experience a truly effortless BBS shave without the accompanying irritation that those of us with sensative damaged skin must otherwise endure.  Even were I working a Senior Executive level position in the Fortune 50, could shave every third day and still be considered groomed to British button down perfection.

17-4 razors tend to feel hard against the skin to my perspective but in a good way.  While Titanium is all the rage, find it less preferable than stainless as a material even including a certain artisan making razors in Canada, haha.  The first shave with the H&S P076 17-4 DC felt a little harsh but by the second shave had adapted to the feel and found it pleasant.  As anticipated, the balance and maneuverability were exemplary, the blade feel magnificent and quality of the shave BBS spot on with neither nicks nor weepers, lasting a full 48+ hours.

The soaps from H&S are reminiscent of the best classic British cremes; lather builds easily whether using badger or synthetic brush, the scent is subtle yet pleasant and the cushion and glide are classically balanced.  For those fans of classic cremes, this is a must have!  The AS Balm had a soothing and cooling effect that many appreciate while calming post shave irritation for those with sensative skin.

Will reiterate my summation from the East Coast P076 17-4 SB and OC passaround review: these are the best 2 products of their type encountered in a lifetime of shaving – it really is that simple.  When items of such breakthrough significance by artisans having the vision and ability to make them reality are encountered, they deserve to be called out for being exceptional and so I did.  Shaving is not a hobby to me; rather, it is a chore that given an opportunity would happily be abandoned.  These products make a terrible burden better than any others I have used in a decade of experimenting with what are considered the best products available globally.  Whereas the P076 Ti is a Lamborghini Huracan – providing thrills with margin of error protection of a Ferrari Italia but retaining some of the fun feedback of the Ferrari 355 and the N075 Al is akin to driving a Porsche 996/7 or Ferrari Italia – it makes you perform better than ever imagined without punishing mistakes, the P076 17-4 is akin to driving an old midengine Ferrari 246 or 355 or Porsche 993 – it does exactly what is wanted without punishing terribly for mistakes.

For those that have participated in our H&S razor passarounds, henceforth we will be sending the plastic cases which will help protect the razor from damage more easily than relying on participants' wrapping properly prior to shipping.  Unfortunately, it will now require using a medium USPS Priority box with associated additional expense.

All interested in the passaround are strongly encouraged to reach out via PM for inclusion.

My time with the H&S 17-4 SB/OC razors have come to an end.  I shaved three times (2 SB and 1 OC) with the razors.  Here's my experiences with them.

Shave 1:  SB configuration,  Grooming Dept NAI Aion soap pressed into Thirsty Badger lather bowl, Turn n Shave 26mm badger tip bulb knot.  My first go with the razor was with two days of growth (which is my normal interval of shaving).  The razor seemed smooth and was plenty efficient to effectively remove my beard growth.  I did three passes plus a couple of light touchups, more out of habit than need.

I had a couple small weepers, but nothing major.  I did notice that I had a fair amount of stinging when I used alum and not just on tje area with the weepers.  I suspect most of this is due to overshaving on my part.

In terms of the GD Aion soap, it was my first chance to use Nai.  It was very good, but all the GD bases are excellent performers so that was no surprise.

Shave 2:  This shave was once again on 2 days growth and I employed the OC version.  I was incredibly impressed with the OC as I honestly don't normally appreciate open comb razors very often.  The combs felt very comfortable and the shave was very smooth overall.  I consciously limited myself to two passes, plus a couple of very small touchups.  I had a little feedback on the alum, but less than the original shave.

I used the Asinus soap and the performance was excellent.  I very much missed the scent during the shave, which is interesting to me because I had been wanting to try an unscented soap to see how much I would enjoy the shave sans the scented soap.

Shave 3:  SB plate on 1.5 days growth.  I needed a redo of the first shave and this one was much better.  I limited to two passes and had very little irritation this time around.  I used Ariana & Evans St Barts in the base prior to Kaizen.  The fit and weight of the razor was right in my wheelhouse in terms of what my preferred setups are.

Great shaves and I appreciate Aji and Dan for making this passaround happen.

boilerphan  which did you prefer the SB or OC?

boilerphan  which did you prefer the SB or OC?

I slightly preferred the OC... which is extremely out of the norm for me.  I am going to get out my other OCs this week to give them another go.  Either I am maturing as a wet shaver or the H&S OC is just that smooth.  More testing needed for sure.

Another busy week for me, so apologies for not getting this review up sooner. 
 
As many have said before, this razor looks amazing. I’ve not had the privilege of trying many of the high-end razors on the market, but these are the best made razors that I’ve used. I really appreciate the design thought that was put into them. The slim head design, the balance is great, the design and length of the handle, all tie together in a very harmonious way. Having tried the N075 in mixed metal, and now these P076 in 17-4, it just confirms the design prowess that Aji has brought to the table. 
 
I typically shave every other day, and that’s what I did while I had these razors. 
 
Shave #1
Razor: Solid bar
Blade: Nacet
Brush: Graydog
Bowl: Timeless Shaving Bowl
Pre Shave: Grooming Dept
Soap: GD Aion Nai base (included in passaround)
Post: GentlemanJon Alum block
Post: Ethos Skin Food Splash
 
I have some of the GD Kairos base, but this is the first time that I’ve tried the Nai base. Kairos is a great performer, one of the top soaps that I’ve used. The Aion Nai base did not disappoint. Very nice, thick, and slick lather. The scent right out of the tub was very strong to me, and not one that I liked. Once I built the lather and applied it, the scent toned down quite a bit. 
 
I wasn’t sure what to expect from this razor, as some had indicated that the 17-4 has a harder face feel than some other stainless steels. Started my 3 pass WTG, and wow, those first strokes were super smooth, and super efficient. I didn’t really notice a huge difference in face feel, but that could be attributed to the impeccable design of this razor. Two more passes (XTG & ATG), and a little cleanup, and what a great shave. The ATG pass was surprisingly smooth, which is one thing I use to judge whether I would keep a razor. No cuts, no weepers, just very close to BBS (not quite). A little bit of sting from the alum, nothing crazy, but even my best shaves seem to have a little bit of alum feedback. Every now and then the stars align, and I don’t get any. 
 
First impression is this is one amazing razor.
 
Shave #2
Razor: Solid bar
Blade: Nacet (same from the first shave)
Brush: Graydog
Bowl: Timeless Shaving Bowl
Pre Shave: Grooming Dept
Soap: GD Aion Nai base (included in passaround)
Post: GentlemanJon Alum block
Post: Ethos Skin Food Splash
 
Not much to say here, as it was about equivalent to the first. Great shave.
 
Shave #3
Razor: Solid bar
Blade: Polsilver Stainless
Brush: Graydog
Bowl: Timeless Shaving Bowl
Pre Shave: Grooming Dept
Soap: GD Asinus Donkey Milk base (included in passaround)
Post: GentlemanJon Alum block
Post: Ethos Skin Food Splash
 
This Asinus is unscented, and out of the tub it smells like, well, soap. My grandmother used to make big batches of soap over a fire in a cast iron kettle in her back yard when I was a kid, and the smell reminded me a lot of her completed soaps. The performance of this base was also top notch, and it even performed better than the Nai base for me. 
 
After a couple of shaves, I got a better feel for this solid bar, and this was the best so far. I switched to a once used Polsilver Stainless blade, but I really don’t think that made a huge difference. Probably the best shave that I’ve had in a year, just totally smooth, super efficient, and BBS after 3 passes and a little cleanup. I can’t get over how great this razor performed for me. A lot less alum feedback, and smooth for at least 12 hrs. 
 
Shave #4
Razor: Open Comb
Blade: Polsilver Stainless
Brush: Graydog
Bowl: Timeless Shaving Bowl
Pre Shave: Grooming Dept
Soap: Ethos Grooming Essentials Succes
Post: GentlemanJon Alum block
Post: Ethos Skin Food Splash
 
Switched soap to one that I use on the regular. I don’t typically get along with open combs, and this was no exception. A big increase in blade feel, which I didn’t care for. Got a couple of small weepers on the first pass, and it felt pretty harsh. I switched back to the SB for the other passes, but the shave just turned out to be ok. I may have rushed this one a bit, but as I said, open combs haven’t been something that have worked for me. 
 
Final thoughts:


These are amazing razors! I wasn’t sure what to expect with the positive blade exposure; the solid bar has some blade feel, but not obtrusively so. It’s just enough so you know where the blade is, and can adjust accordingly. It is VERY smooth, and the 0.76 gap belies how efficient this razor really is. This is more efficient and smoother than my Game Changer 0.84. Just goes to show that geometry plays a role. I loved how nimble this razor felt, with it’s slim head profile. There are many high end razors that I have not had the opportunity to try out, but this is the best razor that I’ve used, modern or vintage.

EDIT: Almost forgot, huge thanks to DanLaw , GroomingDept , and Aji at Haircut and a Shave for making this passaround possible. I've said it before, I wouldn't get to try a lot of these razors if not for the passarounds!

First shave with the pass around today.  The SB with a new Nacet and what you see -- I photographed the back of my Brad Sears brush because of the way it says it's from Maryland -- like the razor, of course.  From the moment I started my first pass, I realized the razor was going to be one fine shaver. 2.5 passes led to an exceedingly fine BBS shave, with one tiny nick from sloppiness.  As for the feel on the face, there was perhaps less blade feel than I expected given some other comments (and I think less, say, then a Blackbird -- at least I think so from a single shave) but here's the interesting part:  throughout the shave I was feeling some irritation, and I was sure I was giving myself some micro-cuts/abrasions.  Pretty much from my first pass to the end.  I was surprised when I was done and the irritation disappeared, and I found not a single nick (except for the one mentioned) and but the slightest feedback from an alum bar. So, the end result was an exceedingly smooth, close shave but an odd, not necessarily great, shave experience.  I'm suspecting that this may be my way of feeling the 17-4 steel.  I'll keep going this week. Now that I know what to expect, I may not spend the time worrying and relax and enjoy it more.

As for the soap, first time I've used a GD soap -- since it can be hard to get ahold of.  It lived up to my expectations, except that the nugget that came to me is now just about exhausted. Lathered fine, fairly slick, and a really nice after-shave feel.  Excellent stuff.  As with some other reviewers, the scent didn't thrill, although it disappeared quickly so it really didn't matter.  


Will continue with a few more shaves. And lest I forget later, thanks to Aji, Mo, Dan, and whoever else should be given credit for making this pass-around happen.

[font=Tahoma, sans-serif]Followed up yesterday's shave with the PO76 17-4 SB with another today.  Used what you see as well as the same Nacet on a second day, so, except for the soap, pretty much the same materials. (Didn't show the brush front side; Chubby 2 Best.).  I switched soaps to use one I’ve used a few times in the last week.  So, I knew what to expect but, while I could go on at length, the experience today was similar to yesterday.  I think I'm just rather sensitive to the 17-4.  The design of the razor, the head, the gap, the exposure are all fine – and the finishing is superlative, of course -- but to be absolutely honest, I’m finding the shave itself to be slightly uncomfortable, even, as some have said, perhaps slightly harsh.  I think that is just my personal reaction to the metal. I felt it during the shave. Once I finished shaving, my skin felt fine and the shave was smooth as can be.  No post-shave irritation, no nicks, no weepers.  In other words, I love the way I felt after shaving, but just so much not during shaving.  I'm going to put aside the razor for a few days and give it one more go, maybe try a different blade (probably a Bic or GSB) just to see if that might influence matters.  [/font]

I'll give an update on the razor because I just got a shaving with it. It's not really a total stranger.
 I do have the SB 17-4 and I just wanted to give the OC version a go.
 I whipped up the B&M soap in a shave bowl with a synthetic brush, and  used a Perma Sharp (1) blade. 
The first couple of passes were with the OC side which as normal was a little bit more blade feel and I could feel it catching a little bit more hair or so I thought.
  The last pass was with the SB side which I'll have to say is more comfortable, to me.
I got a pretty good shave although below the jawline there's a little bit more left than I like to leave but any more whacking and I was going to get irritated skin.

Final day with 17-4 and thoughts upon sending it back.  Without doubt, this is a fine, fine razor --- the quality of the work and the polish and the finishing are in the top tier.  Simply higher than some other of what are considered premium razors.  Just a wonderfully made tool. And it feels good and solid in the hand.  For many, it would be a delight to own.  For me, my third shave was like the other two:  there is something about the metal that is cold and uncomfortable to me. The shave itself is as fine and close as any I would ever want.  As close a shave as I've ever had or so close as to be unable to tell a difference.  And no post-shave irritation or nicks.  Maybe it's metal, maybe it's just the positive blade angle, or maybe it's the two combined together. I don't know although normally if a razor will bother me because of the way it cuts, then irritation follows. Not here, though. Anyway, that may just be my skin. But if you're curious about getting a razor of this quality you owe yourself a chance to try it:  after all, Aji believes in his product and provides a 30 day trial.  Not to mention the lovely little plastic box in which it comes.  You can't lose by giving it a try if you're someone searching for the best razors out there.  Others have found it to be a keeper.  I, for one, am looking forward to trying the other metals in which the PO76 is made to see how those go.  Otherwise, for this shave, I used what you see -- only swapped out the Nacet for a Bic and didn't really seem to notice a difference.  Finally, as to  Grooming Department pre-shave and Asinus soap. I don't have much to say that others haven't: the preshave provides a lovely base of slickness and softens the soap and may add to a moister post-shave; the soap has a fullness on the face that was great but the lack of a scent made the shave, well, just a bit duller.  

So, again, thanks to Aji and Mo for being willing to share out your excellent products (and Dan for being pass-around director extraordinaire).