Haircut & Shave P076 17-4 SB & OC Passaround Review – World Class Artisanal Craftsman

I used the 17-4 for about a week's worth of daily shaves. 2 passes one WTG followed by ATG. I mostly used the SB since I don't really have a need for open combs. Before I get into the shave, I've seen several razors being compared to Wolfman's mirror polish, but once I got a hold of them, I could see polishing streaks. On some razors like the DB (Paradigm Diamondback) it's very hard to see, but they are there. The 17-4 is the only razor I've come across that is truly polished at the level of WM's mirror polish, at least the top cap was, not the rest of the razor. However, Dan told me that the final production razor has an improved polish, so I suspect the entire production model razor is polished to WM's level.

The shave itself was great. There's definitely some blade feel, similar to the original Carbon plate (haven't used the newer ones yet), but the razor is very smooth. I kept getting nicks after several days with the Cx, but not was not my experience with the 17-4. I couldn't help but compare the 17-4 to the DB. During use, the DB FEELS smoother due to it's lack of blade feel, but once the shave was over, the end result was the same. Both razors gave me nick/irritation free shaves consistently. You can't ask for more smoothness than that out of a razor. So while the journey felt different, the destination (in terms of smoothness) was equal on both razors.

Things were a little odd on the efficiency end. The 17-4 FELT more efficient while in use (due to it's greater blade feel), but after 12+ hours of growth I would give the DB a slight nod over the 17-4.

I think both the DB and 17-4 appeal to different crowds and both are great choices. If you like the original Cx but want greater smoothness and efficiency, I think the 17-4 is a great choice! If you prefer little to no blade feel, then the DB is probably better suited for you. If you're like me and don't really discriminate, then both razors are worthy of buying.

I also couldn't help but notice the similarity of the 17-4's base plate to the Cx's. They both have ultra thin base plates. I'd love to see how the 17-4 compares to the new +/++ Carbon plates.

I didn't find the OC as smooth, but I only used it once and didn't give it a fair chance since I knew I wouldn't be buying it anyways. The production model OC does have wider teeth, so I suspect it'll be smoother than prototype in this pass around.

In summary, I got nothing but consistently perfect shaves with the 17-4 and can recommend it to those who don't mind some blade feel. $300 for a truly mirror polished, 17-4 stainless razor that shaves this well is beyond reasonable in my opinion. This razor could easily have been listed at more than that.

Thanks Dan and Aji for the pass around!

Look forward to reading other people's thoughts.

How would you compare the blade feel (& efficiency if possible) to a WR1 in similar gap? Does the 17-4 have less / similar / or more blade presence?

Way way smoother than 0,76 WR1 for sure. About equal to an aggressive 0,67 with about equal blade presence to my perspective, a WR1 0,67DC being in my regular rotation

I held of on writing a review of this razor until I had some time with it. Be aware I’m no expert so take my viewpoint with a grain of salt, but I thought I’d throw my thoughts on here. It seems this 17-4 razor is blade dependent more than any other razor I’ve tried. (Timeless, CG, DLC Lupo, Karve) I started out with my favorite persona med preps. But after a few shaves, the exposure / blade / gap seemed a little too harsh for me. I moved onto kai’s, which yielded the same results. After a post on here, I tried nacets, which calmed things down and smoothed out the harshness a lot . As someone stated here, when shaving you feel like this thing is really mowing through the whiskers, but when you go to feel your face after each pass your surprised at how much stubble is left. Not knocking this razor as the fit/finish is top notch, it’s a super smooth razor, and I love how thin the head is. But for me and my face, the aggression to efficiency ratio just isn’t there. I shaved with it today, and after a 3 pass shave I obtained BBS and with my Maol aftershave, my face feels great. But getting there / during the shave, my face felt a little beat up and irritated (sensitive skin). I did not use the original handle as I don’t like anything over 80mm, but the handle has the girpiest knurling I’ve ever felt on a handle. This razor has helped me finalize my decision that I am an outlier and do not like polished razors. With machined finish, it’s not as smooth but makes me slow down my shave. With polished, I find myself zipping around my face faster due to the smoothness. Overall a very nice, light, smooth razor if you don’t have sensitive skin and enjoy a pretty positive blade exposure. I’d say out of 10, my stubble is a 7-8 on a thickness/wireyness scale. As most of you say, YMMV and I can see this razor being a favorite for a lot of folks.

I do agree on how picky it is with blades. More than any razor I’ve tried.

The production 17-4 razors are even nicer finished and have champhered edges for increased comfort.  Just a lovely razor at an outstanding price

ppfingsten 

Razors aren't picky, people are.

I used the 17-4 with the same blades I use in all of my razors, the Gillette 7 o'clock super stainless without any issues.

SOTD 05.07.2020

H&S 17-4 OC/SB

Mozingo ZT1

GD Pre-Shave

Milksteak Soap

Personna (etched)

GD Post Serum

I've used each of the heads once.  Yesterday, I put the SB to 2-3 growth and I used the OC just now on 24hrs growth.  This is my first exposure to H&S razors and I don't really follow the threads.  I jumped on the pass around get a feel for the quality of the product and of course, to see how they shave. For background, after several years of trial and error, my modern razor lineup is limited to Wolfman WR1/WR2, BlackBirds SB/OC, and Rocnel Adjustables. 

The H&S 17-4 is very well put together. The tolerances are tight as the fit indicates.  The finish on the top cap great.  It's very close to my mirror SS Wolfman razors.  I've really got to study them to tell a difference.  DuFour tells me his polished Ti is 95% mirror.  He leads me to believe that about as far as Ti will get and it is terribly time consuming.  It doesn't meet his standards, so he doesn't really offer the service.  This H&S 17-4 is above the Ti and slightly below DuFours mirror...so I'd say it's 98% mirror.  It's a real beauty.  Solid A on the finish.

One of the things I liked about the 17-4 from photos is the head looks similar to a WR-1.  Having compared them, they are a little different.  The 17-4 is slightly longer and has a taller dome height.  Both heads weigh exactly the same 27g.  The knurling on the 17-4 handle is sharp, not BBS-1 sharp but it's sharper than a WRH1.  The knurling will grab a microfiber towel.  It's executed well, grippy, and I quite like it. A+ on the knurling

I did my standard 2.5 pass shave with both razors.  Both easily produced a BBS. The SB, yesterday, lasted about 6.5 hours. Perfectly acceptable for a daily shaver, to me, although all of my 3-piece razors cut closer.  The published info on the 17-4 says positive exposure with a .76mm gap.  It is slightly positive.  The blade is definitely there but it's slight. Cheat to the cap and I can lose it.  Fortunately, I'm a bar rider so I was able to locate and maintain the blade throughout the shave.  Less blade exposure and a taller dome height than my WR1 .80mm OC makes it smoother.  This 17-4 reminds me a lot of my Paradigm 17-4 (sold it) both in smoothness and efficiency.  I totally get why the Paradigm is so sought after but here comes a razor that, to me, performs just as well. A on performance.  It would make a very good daily shaver for most.

The OC does increase blade feel slightly.  My gut says there is little difference in efficiency SB to OC but I will be sure and monitor regrowth throughout the day.

The H&S website says the MSRP for their 17-4 is $300.  A damned good value for the quality and performance, IMO.  Excellent product and a solid performer.  Thanks to Dan and H&S for doing this for the community.  I do appreciate the opportunity to play with gear I normally may not.  

Great review and that brush gives me wood!