Fragrance Terms

Almond

The almond (Prunus amygdalus) is a deciduous tree, growing to a height of 13-30 feet, with a trunk up to 12 inches in diameter. Its young twigs are green at first, becoming purple where exposed to sunlight, then grey in their second year. The leaves are 3-5 inches long and serrated. The flowers are white to pale pink, 1-2 inches in diameter with 5 petals, and appear at the end of winter. Almond trees grow best in Mediterranean climates with warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters. Almonds begin to bear an economic crop in the third year after planting, reaching full bearing at 5-6 years. The fruit matures in the fall, 7-8 months after flowering. Almond fruit, technically a drupe (a fleshy fruit with thin skin and a central stone containing the seed), is 1.5-2.5 inches long. Its outer covering (exocarp) is a thick, leathery, grey-green coat called the hull. Inside the hull is a reticulated, hard, woody shell (endocarp). Inside this shell is the edible seed or nut. After the fruit matures, the hull splits and separates from the hull, and a layer forms between the stem and fruit so that the fruit can fall from the tree.


The almond tree is native to Iran and surrounding Middle Eastern countries, including Pakistan, Syria, Israel, and Turkey. Wild almond species were harvested for food; most likely they were processed by leaching or roasting to remove toxicity from most of the species. It has been argued that a common genetic mutation caused an absence of the glycoside amygdalin, and this mutant was grown by early farmers, first unintentionally in their garbage heaps and later intentionally in orchards. The almond was first domesticated about 5000 years ago, one of the first domesticated fruit trees, probably because it could be grown easily from seed, before the introduction of grafting. Cultivation of the tree then spread along the shores of the Mediterranean into northern Africa and southern Europe and east to India, and in more recent times it was transported to other areas with favorable climates, including California.  

The name almond comes from the late Latin amandula, derived from Greek amygdala, and then Old French almande or alemande. Other related names of almond, which sometimes are seen on perfume product bottles include mandel or knackmandel (German), mandorlo or mandorla (Italian), amêndoa (Portuguese), and almendro or almendra (Spanish).


There are two commercial varieties of P. amygdalus grown primarily in the Mediterranean and California, the sweet almond (var. dulcis) that provides the edible nut and the bitter almond (var. amara) that is the main source of essential oil. Other species of the genus Prunus, such as apricot, peach, and cherry, also produce bitter kernels. The bitter almond nut is slightly broader and shorter than the sweet almond and contains about 50% less fixed oil. It has an enzyme which yields glucose, cyanide, and the essential oil, which is nearly pure benzaldehyde. All commercially grown almonds sold as food in the U.S. are the sweet variety.


World production of almonds increased by 45% from 2017 to 2018, with the United States providing 81% of the total (mostly from California). Other producing countries include Australia, Greece, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Syria, and Turkey.



Almond Perfumery in History and Culture

In 2003 a perfume factory found was found by archeologists at Pyrgos-Mavroraki on Cyprus that is believed to date to the Early Bronze age 4000 years ago, and which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1850 BC. Perfume bottles, mixing jugs, and stills were found preserved under the collapsed walls, along with finished perfumes, ingredients, and a few recipes. Along with anise, pine, coriander, bergamot, and parsley, almond was found to be one of the key ingredients. These perfumes were used to honor Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, and almond oil still is used today in some cultures as an aphrodisiac. 


The Roman historian Pliny the Elder, who wrote extensively about the process of making perfumes, complained about the very popular almond perfume, saying that it was a disgrace that people wasted money on it when the scent disappeared so rapidly. In those times, frankincense and myrrh sometimes were used as fixatives with almond oil. In ancient Rome, newlyweds were showered with almonds to symbolize fertility. Especially early blooming of almond trees was believed to foretell a bountiful harvest season.

In the Hebrew Bible, the almond tree was a symbol of watchfulness and promise due to its early flowering. It is described in the Book of Genesis as "among the best of fruits." According to Biblical tradition, the rod of Aaron bore sweet almonds on one side and bitter ones on the other; if the Israelites followed the Lord's commandments, the sweet almonds would be ripe and edible, but if they forsook the path of the Lord, the bitter almonds would predominate. The almond blossom is said to have supplied a model for the menorah which stood in the Jewish Holy Temple. Similarly, Christian symbolism often used almond branches as a symbol of the Virgin Birth. La Entrada de la Flor is still an event celebrated on February 1 in Spain, in which the fruits of the almond tree are offered to the Virgin Mary. During the Middle Ages, almond consumption was huge; an inventory in 1372 of the effects of Jeanne d'Evreux, the Queen of France, lists only 20 pounds of sugar but 500 pounds of almonds.

In folklore, dreaming of an almond symbolizes an upcoming journey: a sweet almond suggests a prosperous journey, while a bitter almond means misfortune. The Chinese have considered the almond a symbol of both enduring sadness and female beauty. Folklore also has claimed that almonds are poisonous for foxes. The bitter almond was thought to be preventive of alcohol intoxication: Plutarch spoke of a great drinker of wine who escaped becoming intoxicated by eating bitter almonds.

Almond Blossom

Almond blossoms are very fragrant, subtle and sweet, and they project the scent for several yards. Almond flower essence from the sweet almond tree are used to give a light, delicate, airy note to perfumes, primarily unisex and feminine ones. The scent starts slightly citrusy, somewhat like mandarin rind, then is honey-like, buttery, and floral, with a slight gourmand nuance of the almond nut. The fragrance is extracted from crushed flower petals by solvent extraction and distillation.


Bitter Almond

Bitter almond oil is the volatile essential oil that provides fragrance in perfume products and aromatherapy. Sweet almond oil, in contrast, is a fixed oil with very little scent and a nutty taste, and it is used as a base carrier oil in cosmetic products and for flavoring foods.


Almond essential oil falls in the gourmand fragrance family, although it also has woody and sweet tones. It has an overall bittersweet odor, soft, delicate, and a bit nutty. The oil used in perfumery can be a creamy, soft almond; or toasted almond much like coumarin; or most often the classical sweet almond note that is primarily from benzaldehyde. Due to its rounded scent, it can be used in many different ways, but most often appears as a top note and is especially popular in spring and summer blends. It combines especially well with floral, resin, and other gourmand notes such as coffee, cocoa, and honey, and its combination with vanilla is renowned and widely used. It also is commonly blended with balsam of Peru, jasmine, osmanthus, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka bean, and ylang ylang. Fruity notes like apple and pear give almond a fresher and lighter tone. The oil is medium to highly volatile and does not have any fixative properties. The addition of vanilla or sandalwood as fixatives can increase the stability and tenacity of the almond essential oil.

Almond essential oil is produced also from crushed and pressed kernels of cherries, apricots, peaches, and prunes, and from cinnamon bark, through steam distillation. The process of obtaining bitter almond essential oil is quite complex because of the need to remove the extremely toxic prussic acid (hydrocyanic acid), which involves alkaline leaching and re-distillation. Despite this process, the oil can occasionally cause skin irritation, which can be severe in sensitive or allergic individuals.

Benzaldehyde

Amygdalin, the poisonous material in bitter almonds, was first extracted in 1803 by the French pharmacist Martrès. Further experimentation with the oil by chemists Pierre Robiquet and Antoine Boutron-Charlard, isolated benzaldehyde; and in 1832, Friedrich Wöhler and Justus von Liebig first was able to synthesize benzaldehyde. In modern compounds, synthetic benzaldehyde is used much more often than natural almond, because it is cheaper and does not cause any skin irritation. Like almond oil, it has medium volatility and no fixative properties. Depending upon its dilution and blending, benzaldehyde's smell can be bitter or sweet. It often is used to recreate natural almond or cherry scents in fragrance compounds, providing rich, warm base notes. Its amaretto notes are useful in fragrances that are meant to imitate the aromas of certain foods.

Marzipan

Marzipan scent is considered a sub-category of almond. It too has a warm bittersweet tone, reminiscent of the almond paste used in decorating and filling desserts, and generally it is sweeter than natural almond. It reflects the food confection's composition of almond meal, egg white, and sugar or honey. The basic scent is often combined with vanilla, rose, benzoin, musk, cassis, or black currant.


Other Almond Uses

In addition to the nuts being eaten alone or in other food products and dishes in many cultures, the sweet oil provides flavoring and sometimes is used in cooking as a substitute for olive oil. Almond extract is produced by cold pressing almonds to collect the oil, which is then combined with alcohol. Ethanol suspensions of synthetic benzaldehyde are sold inexpensively as imitation almond extract for use in cakes and other baked goods. Almond syrup (an emulsion of sweet and bitter almonds usually made with barley or orgeat syrup as a base) has been used for flavoring and as a condiment; modern versions generally consist of only sweet almonds. The young, developing fruit of the almond tree ('green almonds') can be eaten when it is still green and fleshy on the outside and the inner shell has not hardened. It can be pickled or brined to extend its shelf life.


When combined with aldehydes, almond can have a fresh, pure scent that is very popular in soaps, shampoos, and skin care products. Almond flower extract has humectant/moisturizing, firming, smoothing, cleaning, and soothing properties, making it popular in cosmetic products, especially those for babies. Almond proteins are included in hair products to coat the fiber and make the hair shiny; and almond bark and shells, reduced to powder, are used in scrubs and exfoliators. The sweet oil has been used traditionally by massage therapists to lubricate the skin because of its effective emollient properties.

Claimed medicinal benefits of almonds include improved complexion; improved digestion; relief from coughs and hoarseness; easing of fevers, aches, and pains; treatment of liver, kidney, and bladder ailments; and prevention of cancer. Recent studies suggest that almonds in the diet can improve levels of cholesterols and have anti-inflammatory, immunity boosting, and anti-hepatotoxicity effects. In Ayurvedic Indian medicine, almond is considered a nutritive for the brain and nervous system and an aphrodisiac, both in massage and internally. Edgar Cayce, an American psychic, regarded by some as a father of American holistic medicine, is said to have recommended almonds for overall physical and spiritual health. Sweet almond has been used to make castor oil palatable. Extract of bitter almond also was used medicinally in the past, but even in small doses the effects can be severe or fatal, especially in children.

Almond Fragrances (Masculine* and Unisex):

4711 Acqua Colonia Cotton & Almond
Acqua di Genova Fontana di Trevi XIV
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Mandorlo di Sicilia
Agatha Imperial Jade Men*
Alchemic Muse Marzipan
Alkemia Perfumes Cyanide
l'Artisan Parfumeur Jour de Fete
Aulentissima Amande
Azzaro Twin*
Brecourt Captive
Caswell Massey Centuries Almond
Christian Dior Bois d'Argent*
Coquillete Sulmona, Ambrosia
Davidoff Good Life*
Demeter Almond
Donna Karan Fuel*, DK*
l'Erbolario Mandorla
Etro Heliotrope
Frazer Parfum Chapter Four
Gabriel et Valentin Alexandre Cheri
Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel*
Giorgio Armani Code Special Blend*
Givenchy Pi*
Granado Safari Encantado
Gritti White Almond
Guerlain l'Homme (various)*, Tonka Imperiale
Heloise de V. Dejeuner sous le Figuier
Initio Parfums High Frequency*
Jo Malone London Honey & Crocus, Green Almond & Redcurrant
Joop! Nightflight*
Lacoste l'Homme (various)*
Lancome Hypnose*
Lempicka Homme*
Lush Frangipani
Mazzolari Alessandro
Mr. Burberry Element*
Montale Amandes Orientales, Sweet Oriental Dream
Morph Zeta
Muriel Cosmeticos Aqua Essence Flor de Amendoas
Nest White Sandalwood*
Nikkos-Oskol Fragrance No. 17
l'Occitane en Provence Eau Maman & Bebe
Omnia Profumi Animanobile
Oriflame Delicate Cherry Blossom
Ortigia Sicilia Almond
Paco Rabanne XS l'Aphrodisiaque*
Pacoroca Hot Sense*
Parfums Berdoues Amande & Tonka
Parfums de Marly Pegasus*
Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque Calissons Gourmands
Pierre Guillaume Paris Mio Bjao
Prada Infusion d'Amande
Profumum Roma Dolce Acqua, Confetto, Antico Caruso
Serge Lutens Louve
Simone Andreoli Mandorla di Noto
Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Amande*, Midnight in Paris*
Yves Rocher Babiflore, Canneberge & Amande
Zara Amber Wood*

Almond Blossom Male* and Unisex Fragrances:

Acca Kappa Vaniglia Fior di Mandorlo
Acqua di Genova Gold
Alkemia Laveau
Amua Taerre
Boellis Fiore di Mandorlo di Sicilia
Boucheron Iris de Syracuse
Cosmeticos Acqua Essence Flor de Amendoas
Discovery Night of Nordlys
Exaltatum Mimosa Gold
Francesca dell'Oro Voile Confit
House of Oud Wonderly
Les Senteurs Gourmandes Amande Fleurie
Lomani Virtual*
Maison Martin Margiela Flying
Memo Paris Desert Orange Blossom
Ortigia Sicilia Almond
Ricardo Ramos Matcha NoNo
Richard White Chocola
Sense Dubai No. 5
Shay & Blue London Almond Cucumber
Sinfonia di Note Patchouli
Tesori d'Oriente Hammam
Xerjoff Amber Gold

Marzipan Male* and Unisex Fragrances:

Alkemia Buosni
Avon Pretty Blue
Cerruti 1881 Black*
DSH Marzipan (Holiday No. 5)
Ganache Kake
Keiko Mecheri Lunea
Lush Snowcake
OsmoGenes No. 3
Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque Calissons Gourmands, Caramel
Pure Sense Serenity

Pillar and Flanker Fragrances, Reconcentration, and Reformulation

Pillars

In perfumery language a pillar fragrance is a standalone fragrance meant to provide significant individual support to a brand. It is an entirely new creation and release with no connection to or affiliation with any existing fragrances within the brand's total collection.

Flankers

A flanker fragrance is a 'sequel' or spin-off fragrance, a version 2.0 that capitalizes on the success of the corresponding pillar one. Some flanker scents are variations on the original (i.e. they might share certain notes), but with one or two key alterations, while others share nothing more than the name or packaging. The most common type of flanker is one that offers a variation of the pillar's main theme and structure but amplifies a particular accord or adds new top or heart notes to alter the overall impression. A symbolic flanker is one in which the scent smells completely different and is merely capitalizing on the name of its predecessor.
Flankers usually have the same name as the original but with another word or two added. Most often flankers are released within one to five years after the pillar fragrance, but sometimes the process is continued. Calvin Klein, for example, has been issuing annual flankers of CK One regularly since 2004. The first flankers appeared in the 1970s, and the practice increased steadily, with nearly 20% of all new launches now being flankers. A recent trend has been the production of flankers for vintage classic fragrances, a way to target a new generation of clients for whom the flanker might act as a 'gateway fragrance,' perhaps leading them to purchasing the original when they are older.

Flankers are usually packaged in the same or a very similar bottle as the pillar, but the bottle might have a different color, finish, or decoration, or the liquid itself is a different color. They often are released as supplementary limited editions, reformulated for a particular use or occasion without replacing the original. Although some flankers may be labelled as having different concentrations, most will have subtitles like 'sport,' 'intense,' or 'nuit.' Many brands release summer versions of popular scents (especially of winter or evening scents), often a 'l'eau' form that is lighter or has added citrus or aquatic notes. Some of these only last as long as the summer season or the holiday gifting period, examples being CK One and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique. Some flankers are meant to capture buyers in new demographics; these might display a softening of the pillar's composition to appeal to a younger population or to specific geographic markets, such as the Asian markets or the Middle Eastern market.


Generally, eau de parfum versions of existing eau de toilette fragrances are not considered flankers. If unsure about whether or not a fragrance is a flanker, the information sometimes can be found on a sticker on the bottom of the bottle. And the batch code is a guide to the year of production, which also can answer the question.

One example in men's fragrances is the pillar fragrance Thierry Mugler A*Men, followed by A*Men Pure Malt (and several others), which added smoky peat and tobacco notes. More recently Mugler released 'liqueur' and 'leather' versions of it. Another example is Paco Rabanne 1 Million for Men (2008), which was followed by a perfume for women, Lady Million (2010) with very similar packaging. A well-known one is Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme, which spawned l'Homme Intense, l'Homme ULtime, l'Homme Sport, and others. Flankers offer brands the opportunity to build upon the popularity of a pillar fragrance, sometimes surpassing the original's commercial success. From a marketing perspective, flankers allow brands to increase market share at a lower cost than would be possible with a new pillar, since tweaking an existing formula and/or bottle design requires much less investment than does all-new market research, composition formulation, and new bottle and packaging design. This is very similar to the release of sequels in the movie industry, in which doubling down on the success of an existing hit film is easier than starting from scratch with a new idea that may or may not be successful. Flankers also provide a means for increased market penetration: fans of the pillar might be committed enough to purchase any subsequent flankers, and people who did not purchase the pillar might be persuaded to buy a more appealing - perhaps lighter or heavier - flanker. Another rationale for flankers is the perceived need to stay relevant and trendy, with the release of something new assuring a strong presence on the fragrance counters.


There are many complaints about flankers, even beyond the simple fact that there are so many of them. There is a general tendency of flankers to 'dumb down' a fragrance, to 'sportify,' 'summer'-ize, or 'oudify' it in a way that lessens the pillar's qualities, although this is not always true. Among discerning, skeptical fragrance fans, flankers are usually considered to be hastily thrown-together products that do not honor the originals. Since everyone knew, for example, that Acqua di Gio has been a best seller every year, it made business sense to just make another cheap citrus-aquatic formula and gamble that it too would sell well, and many were produced.

Well-known flanker producers include:
Acqua di Parma Colonia
Bentley for Men
Bottega Veneta pour Homme
Calvin Klein One
Dior Homme
Guerlain l'Homme
Hermes Terre d'Hermes
Lalique Encre Noire and Hommage
Thierry Mugler A*Men
Tom Ford Portofino Acqua

Reconcentration

With flankers having reached a sort of saturation point in recent years, the perfume industry is increasingly turning to re-concentrating established fragrances as a method of band extension instead of flankers. This process is merely the tweaking of a formula to increase or decrease the ratio of aromatic oils to alcohol in the bottle. The greater the percentage of aromatic compounds, as in an eau de parfum or parfum extrait, the greater the intensity and longevity of the fragrance. Decreasing the percentage of aromatic compounds results in less intensity and shorter longevity, such as an eau de cologne or eau fraiche. Examples of re-concentration include  Terre d’Hermes Hermès Eau Tres Fraiche and Parfum, Dior Sauvage Parfum, and Tom Ford Private Blend Intense releases. Re-concentration allows a brand to maintain a pillar fragrance in softer or more amplified strengths, thus appealing to different buyers. This re-concentration, of course, has some impact on the end effect - the scent that is smelled - due to materials smelling differently at varying concentrations, and some notes being disguised by or overpowered by others. However, these changes are not a deliberate attempt by a perfumer to alter the pillar formula, so re-concentrated fragrances are not considered flankers.

Reformulation

Reformulation is different than flanker creation, in that it involves an effort to maintain the integrity of a fragrance while bowing to changing production needs. The smell of the fragrance sometimes stays the same, but sometimes it changes in either scent or performance; and the general reception to this change can be good or bad.

Reformulation of perfume products is very common and frequent, for various reasons. The major reason for reformulation is that some materials, such as natural animal-derived notes, have been replaced with synthetic substitutes due to changing consumer philosophies and/or trade restrictions. For instance, vanilla, jasmine, oakmoss, coumarin, birch tar, citrus oils, heliotropin, styrax, and opoponax have all been restricted in some way or banned by the International Fragrance Association [IFRA], or are under consideration for restriction. Unfortunately, many of the IFRA rules are nonsensical. However, technology can sometimes provide a way 'around' the regulations, such as Guerlain using a technique for removing a certain banned molecule from oakmoss while keeping the scent intact. Frequently companies substitute cheaper ingredients as a cost-saving measure (although this is less common with the larger, prestigious fragrance makers), or once-plentiful natural materials become scarce or completely unavailable. Ingredients once thought to be safe are sometimes found to be unsafe or toxic and cannot be used any longer. And finally, reformulation is done at times to 'modernize' the product, bringing the product more in line with current preferences. An example is Dior Homme, which when introduced in 2005 contained a heavy, powdery iris note. When it was reformulated in 2011 the fragrance had a much more subdued iris note.

Reformulation is done mostly within the first decade of a product's life, and many are reformulated in three years or less because of flagging sales, because the manufacturer is 'chasing' the surveys of changing customer preferences or have realized that they made mistakes with the initial release, or because of frequently changing regulations.

In addition, perfumes that rely on natural materials have subtle variations from year to year anyway, such as those with jasmine, whose crop smells different each year year, and it will smell different when grown in one part of the world than when grown elsewhere. Similarly, a lavender grown in Provence, France, will not smell like one grown in Kent, UK. Even without these variations, the fact that fragrances are made in batches means that there will be differences, however slight, from batch to batch. A prime example of this is Creed Aventus, whose batches have definite smell differences.

Perfume houses are reluctant to discard a commercially successful product name, and they tend not to publicize reformulations, usually in fact completely denying any changes. When making changes, they often try to use ingredients that might simulate the old smell. Unlike in most product industries, perfume companies are not required by law to reveal all of the ingredients of their products. They are only required to label materials that are 'known allergens' on the packaging, and they frequently just note 'fragrance' or 'parfum.' Thus they are able to secretly alter their formulas with few if any repercussions. Many people think this practice fits the Meriam-Webster definition of counterfeit: "made in imitation of something else with intent to deceive," and there are common and bitter complaints from fragrance connoisseurs about reformulation.

So how can one find out if a fragrance has been reformulated? Asking a sales associate is usually a waste of time, since they usually either do not know the answer or simply deny flatly that any change was made, and customer service and public relations departments of the perfumeries often do the same. Sometimes product reviews by somewhat objective experts can be helpful. The most direct method is to trust one's own nose, although this also has pitfalls, since a perfume's scent changes gradually as it ages: the last of an old bottle will not smell the same as a new tester of the same fragrance. In addition, most people do not have noses that can easily distinguish differences, and one version is pretty much the same another to them. However, sometimes one may notice a difference but actually prefer the newer formula. For these reasons it is very important for those who care a lot about differences to note especially when a product review was written; the review may have been written about a fragrance which is not the same as the current version with the same name.

John (churchilllafemme), I think this is one of your best posts yet in your series of fragrance terms.

John (churchilllafemme), I think this is one of your best posts yet in your series of fragrance terms.

Thank you, Freddy. I wasn't sure if anyone had even read it. It seemed like I was writing about something that was pretty much obvious.

Amber

The word 'amber' comes from the Arabic word 'anbar' (roughly meaning 'grains'). The term originally was used in the 14th century to mean a solid incense composite of resins and spices from the Mideast, north Africa, or India. These have been used for centuries for room potpourri, charm pendants, and religious offerings, generally ground up and blended into soft carrier materials like beeswax. Those from Egypt often are sweet and musky, while mixes from north Africa are known for being more spicy and heady.


Subsequently the term was used in the late 19th century for scents designed to mimic the warm smell of rare ambergris, but at a lower cost, which was possible after the invention of synthetic vanilla. In current use the name no longer means this, although amber and ambergris do share some notes. In addition to referring now to the classical amber scent accord, the name sometimes just denotes the golden color of a blend, resembling that of the semi-precious amber jewel. Aromatic amber scent is also sometimes known as Indian amber, Himalayan amber, omber, or pseudo-ambergris.


Amber Resin

In its fresh non-fossilized form, amber is an aromatic fir tree resin (Pinus succinifera) that has a faint, somewhat sweet, woody, warm, and caramel-like smell. In ancient China, it was customary to burn amber resin for its characteristic 'pinewood' smell during festivities; sometimes it was heated and combined with nitric acid to create an aromatic 'artificial musk.' Fresh amber resin extract is sometimes used now in modern perfumery to anchor more volatile ingredients but only rarely to add scent.


Fossilized Amber

According to most experts, solid fossilized amber has almost no scent at all except when burned. However, some claim that it does have a faint, delicate aroma that is similar to a camphorous mix of lemon and frankincense, especially when tinctured. Rarely, perfumes contain true amber oil or essence which has been extracted by way of a costly 'destructive distillation' process from fossilized amber dust, a byproduct of the amber jewel industry. Such an oil is offered commercially by Eden Botanicals, which says that it comes from fossilized resin of Himalayan or Chinese pine trees and has "smoky, resinous, leathery, woody-dry notes with hints of pine and balsamic overtones." Amber oil is said to dissolve in both alcohol and fixed oils and to make an excellent base note. But amber oils generally tend to smell somewhat charred, and most of the oil is used in health care products rather than perfumery. Most often, when a perfumer claims that a product contains 'fossilized amber,' it has just been used in miniscule amounts for labeling and advertising purposes. One example of a wholesale 'amber essence' that is used relatively commonly by niche 'natural' perfumers contains 'dark amber extract,' sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli essential oil, vetiver essential oil, sunflower oil, and jojoba oil.


Amber Accords

Most commonly, the term amber is used more generically in perfumery, especially in the French classification system, to describe accords or perfumes that are found almost exclusively in the Oriental group and which have in common a warm, slightly powdery, voluptuous, earthy, musky, animalic tone. They sometimes are put into their own category called Amber Oriental. In its common use, amber actually is just a fantasy accord like fougère or chypre. The amber accord is usually created from a mix of resinous plant balsams (classically labdanum with vanilla, plus one or more of benzoin, styrax, balsam of peru, myrrh, copal, tolu, and fir), and/or synthetic chemicals.

The component amounts of amber accords are adjusted by different perfumers, and small amounts of tonka bean, clove, cinnamon, sage, juniper, or flower essences are sometimes added, to give the ambers more variety. The type called Golden Amber is a warm, light, more powdery fragrance rich with vanilla; Dark Amber is sweeter with a touch of spices; and Celestial Amber has a hint of patchouli earthiness. Amber often is used as a base note, and fragrances in which it is found are thought by many to work best during colder months of fall and winter. The labdanum in amber tones is somewhat heavy and opaque, and it can have a tendency to overwhelm other facets, especially in lighter compounds. An amber accord sometimes is used to accent the voluptuous quality of fougère, chypre, and floral compositions, melding with oakmoss and musk or enhancing the sweetness of lavender. Amber also is used frequently to enhance the drydown of a fragrance. In niche fragrances it sometimes appears in a darker, sweeter form and is paired with incense notes. True amber accords are quite versatile, their warm incense undertones adding a dusky, somber quality; while the top notes, reminiscent of freshly cut wood, offer a bright counterpoint. As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, "Amber notes are warm, and can evoke liquor. But above all, they give depth and sexiness to a fragrance..."

Because of the many variations (and meanings), an amber accord often is difficult to define or describe accurately. And adding to the confusion is the use of the word amber or the phrase 'amber oil' in perfume marketing to simply mean a blend that is somewhat warm and sweet but otherwise has nothing in common with amber accords. 

Synthetic Ambers

Several large perfume manufacturing companies (e.g. Firmenich, International Flavors & Fragrances [IFF], Givaudan, Roure) have patented their own synthetic amber accords for use in their house creations, and some of these 'amber bases' are also purchased from them and used by other fragrance makers. These synthetics generally fall into three categories: 'true ambers' (Synarome Ambrarore Absolue, Roure Ambrogène, IFF Ambergrissol, Firmenich Grisambrol), 'labdanum ambers' (Givaudan Ambreinol and Ambergris Synthetique, Firmenich Grisambrène, Naarden Ambre Synthetique), and 'pseudo ambers' that are actually closer in quality to opoponax resin (De Laire Ambre 53, Firmenich Ambreine Samuelsom, Sondes Ambrène).

Amber Xtreme (IFF) is woody, dry, spicy, and sharp, with a 'slightly rancid' wood undertone and a slight ambergris facet that adds volume, depth, and warmth to fragrances. IFF states, "At low levels it combines extremely well with musky notes... for its sensual character. At higher levels its signature is more powerful, and its fresh woody aspects really stand out." Examples of its use in men's fragrances include Avon Absolute by Exclusive, Bruno Banani Loyal Man, David Beckham Inspired by Respect, and Natura K Max.

Ambertonic (IFF) is deep, dry, and amber-woody, with sweet, musky, spicy, and powdery undertones. It is similar in structure and quality to other IFF synthetics such as Cashmeran, Nebulone, Trisamber, and Simfonide. Fragrance examples include Avon Segno, Aramis Special Blend, DKNY Men Summer 2020, Jequiti Malte Amber, and Ralph Lauren Polo Ultra Blue.

Ambrarome (Synarome/NACTIS), or ethyl ester of labdanum, is warm, animalic, leathery, and slightly sweet. Synarome says, "This unique specialty ingredient derived from Cistus ladaniferus gum-resin has been produced by the company since 1926, when it was introduced as an alternative to ambergris tincture. Invaluable in many types of fragrance, especially amber, incense, and chypre types, it contains a material similar in odor to that present in ambergris and is much more strongly animalic than plain labdanum absolute." Examples of masculine fragrances with it are Roja Dove Harrods pour Homme, Sakamichi Bleu Men Ice, Thera Cosmeticos Efesos, and Trussardi Riflesso Blue Vibe LE.

Ambretone (Takasago), used most often in feminine/unisex fragrances, is a sweet, floral, musky synthetic used to replicate amber in Oriental compounds. It is extremely musky and is frequently used in very small amounts in combination with floral, amber, and animalic accords.

Ambrettolide (Givaudan), used in unisex fragrances, is synthesized from a musk found in oil from the ambrette seed (musk mallow, Abelmoschus moschatus). It is rich but delicate, animalic, floral, and fruity. Its warmth and roundness are used to soften blended scent solutions, and because it is extremely tenacious it is a good fixative. Many people are anosmic to it (i.e. unable to smell it at all).

Amberwood (Symrise), although grouped at times with the others, is not really an amber formulation but is used to simulate ambergris. It is used to enhance Oriental, gourmand, or floral scents, sometimes up to percentages as high as 40%. It also is an excellent fixative.

Amber Fragrances for Men

10th Avenue Karl Antony Contigo
Alfred Dunhill Moroccan Amber
Al Haramain Amber Oud Rouge
Al-Rehab Golden Sand
Amouage Library Collection Opus VI
Amouroud Bois d'Orient
Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche
Axe Signature Suave, Amber Proximity
Azzaro Amber Fever
Baldessarini Ambré
Bath & Body Works Dark Amber
Bond No. 9 Dubai Amber
Bvlgari Le Gemme Ambero
By Killian Amber Oud
Carolina Herrera Amber Desire
Chkoudra Paris Premium Amber Black
Christian Dior Ambre Nuit
Davidoff Silver Shadow
Dolce & Gabbana The One
Eau de Iceberg Amber
Ferrari Amber Essence
Fleurage Libertine
Floris Jermyn Street, 1962, 1976, 1988
Fulton & Roark Shackleford
Halston Man Amber
Jaguar Classic Amber
Joliet Descartes Etourdi
Jo Malone Amber & Lavender
Mansfield Georges Feghali Monte Carlo Coup de Foudre
Montale Blue Amber
Natura Humor 4
Nautica Midnight Voyage
Nicole Miller for Men
Ottoman Amber
Penhaligon's No. 33, Lothair, Tragedy of Lord George
Porsche Design Paladium
Prada Amber
Profumi del Forte Versilia Vintage Ambra Mediterranea
Rituals Palace d'Ambre
Samba Amber
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
Tom Ford Amber Absolute
Van Cleef & Arpels Ambre Imperial
Xerjoff XJ 1861 Zefiro, Oud Stars Mamluk, Melesia
Yardley 442 Active
Zara Ambar, Ambre Noble, Red Temptation, Amber Fusion

Saffron

Saffron, known as 'red gold,' is by weight the most expensive spice in the world. It has been used for centuries for its complex aroma, earthy flavor, and deep yellow color. It comes from stigmas (pistils) of the reddish-purple flowers of the saffron Crocus (Crocus sativus), a perennial evergreen Eurasian plant in the Iris family. The flowers appear in October and are harvested later in the fall. Each flower has three threadlike female stigmas that contain over 150 aromatic chemicals, as well as two male stamens.


Stigmas are picked early in the morning from closed flowers, before they wilt in the heat. The fresh red stigma 'threads' can be used for commercial coloring processes but are not fragrant, although the flower itself is said to smell like sea air. For aroma use, the stigmas are dried and quickly sealed in airtight containers because when dried they are extremely sensitive to environmental fluctuations. The stigmas must be dried and heated over fire to make the scent-containing vessels burst open, and to cause a chemical change that creates safranal, the primary odor component. This is similar to tobacco processing. As saffron ages, it loses color, but the aroma intensifies, and this cannot be completely stopped regardless of the method of storage. The process can be accelerated in conditions of warmth, humidity, and light; and it can be slowed by storage at a relatively dry, constant 20 degrees Celsius, in the dark, and enclosed. Saffron can be frozen well, but refrigeration is not recommended. Properly stored saffron is best used within a year but can be good for up to 2 years.


Because of the selective breeding of the domestic plant, it is sterile, unable to produce viable seeds, and must be propagated artificially. It grows from bulb-like corm clusters that form underground and are dug up, broken apart into smaller cormlets, and replanted each year after the blossoms fade. The plant is cultivated and harvested by hand (with 40 hours of labor needed to produce 1 kilogram of spice), making it extremely labor-intensive and contributing to its cost. During the harvest, each 100 acres of crocus flowers can provide work for 250-300 people on small family farms. 


Probably native to Crete (or Greece or Asia minor) as 'wild saffron' (C. cartwrightianus), it was subsequently domesticated and propagated around 2500 BC throughout southern Asia. It appeared in Mediterranean cultures by 1600-1500 BC, and its use was documented there for clothing dyes, perfumes and potpourris, cosmetics, cream and ointments, religious offerings, and medical treatments. The plant was introduced into North Africa and Europe by Roman colonists but then disappeared for centuries. It reappeared in Europe in the 7th or 8th century, after the Islamic conquest of Spain, and it then became widely cultured in Spain and Portugal, where it was known as the Alicanate or Valencia crocus. In the 12th to 14th centuries it became popular throughout Europe, with spice merchants becoming known as 'saffron grocers.' The 14th-century Black Death caused demand for saffron-based folk medications to spike, and Europe imported larged quantities of it from the Mediterranean. Fears of rampant saffron piracy during this time spurred corm cultivation in Switzerland, from which it then spread. The English town of Saffron Walden, named for its specialty crop, emerged as a major growing center in the 16th and 17th centuries, but it was abandoned eventually when labor costs became prohibitive. Dutch immigrants introduced saffron to the Americas by the 1730s, and cultivation spread through Pennsylvania. Spanish colonies in the Caribbean bought large amounts of this crop until the War of 1812, when merchant vessels were attacked and destroyed. Saffron cultivation has continued to the present in Pennsylvania, mainly in Lancaster county.


Wholesale prices of saffron can vary up to tenfold depending upon various factors, commanding between $2,000 and $10,000 or more per kilogram. There is a long history of adulteration, mixing in extraneous substances or just saffron's tasteless and odorless yellow styles, which can add up to 30% to the weight; or adding viscid substances like honey or vegetable oil to increase weight. The powdered form is often cut commercially with other substances of similar natural or dyed color, such as marigold, turmeric, safflower, or gardenia in an attempt to keep the price down. These are known as fake, dyer's, or bastard saffron. Sometimes a higher-grade saffron would be mixed with a lower, cheaper one but labeled only as the higher type. Even today, high-grade Kashmiri saffron is often bought wholesale and mixed with cheaper Iranian imports, the final mix then marketed retail as pure Kashmiri product. In 16th century Germany, saffron was valued so highly that people convicted of adulterating it were sometimes burned at the stake or buried alive (along with their diluted product).


Good quality saffron threads should be strongly red in color, with yellow only at the lower part where they join the plant and slightly lighter orange-red tips. An average of 570 stigmas (from 190 flowers) can be required to produce a single gram of fresh saffron, and half a kilogram of the fresh powder yields 5-6 grams of dried spice. Saffron is available with different qualities depending upon where it is grown and the local growing conditions. As recently as the 1980s, Spain dominated the market, but Iran's production overtook it because of the cheaper cost. About 90% now comes from Iran, with 7% from Indian Kashmir, and only 1% from Spain. The remaining 2% is grown in Morocco, Switzerland, France, Italy, Greece, and Afghanistan. The varying climatic conditions and differences in growing, harvesting, and drying processes (to suit their local climate and soil) result in different essential oil contents and varying color and aroma intensities. Kashmiri saffron, for instance, is recognizable by its dark maroon-purple hue. Recent sanctions against Iran provided huge challenges for Iranian companies trying to export saffron to the U.S. and Europe. However, in mid-January 2016 the specific sanctions were lifted, allowing Iran to export it freely.


Natural red coloring is the most important indicator of saffron overall quality, with the two other indicators being dryness and aroma. Top quality saffron is dry and brittle, never soft and spongy. Lower quality saffron tends to have a higher moisture content, mainly because the yellow styles actually absorb moisture and can prevent proper stigma drying. Producers sometimes toast the saffron to counteract this. The quality of saffron from Iran, Spain, and Kashmir, is graded according to strength of aroma, from strongest (red stigma tips only), through medium strengths (red stigma, with a little yellow through a large amount of yellow style), to the weakest (yellow style only). True top-quality Spanish saffron, with the official designation 'Mancha,' is still considered by many to be the best in the world, but much of the 'Spanish' saffron sold is actually just a mixture of a small amount of a Spanish grade with a larger amount of an Iranian variety. Kashmir saffron usually is more woody, while the Iranian one is more floral. Countries producing less saffron do not have specialized words for different grades and may only produce one grade. Artisan producers in Europe and New Zealand have offset their higher labor charges for saffron harvesting by targeting quality, only offering extremely high-grade saffron. In addition to quality descriptions based on how it is picked and separated, saffron may be categorized by certified laboratory measurements of the chemicals crocin (color), picrocrocin (taste), and safranal (aroma). However, although wholesale market prices can follow from these spectrophotometric categories, little of this laboratory information is included in product packaging. Regional saffron thread types are labeled at times according to government-imposed standards depending upon their particular distinct qualities, including thread length and shape, with trade names protected by law. Various 'boutique' crops, some organically grown, have been available from New Zealand, France, Switzerland, England, and the United States. Increasing numbers of growers, traders, and consumers reject lab testing numbers or government labels, and even the picking grades, preferring more holistic methods that involve periodic sampling of batches of threads for various traits, in a way similar to that practiced by experienced wine tasters.


Global saffron demand is projected to increase for at least the next 6 years, but overall production has fallen due to decreases in Asian and Middle Eastern rainfall and to the Coronavirus pandemic. While production has been government-restricted in the past to a limited geographical area in the Union territory of Indian, recent news reports have noted that the Pampore region of the Indian Kashmir Valley, often called the 'saffron bowl,' may expand commercially into the northeast area of the country. Plants from seeds transported to Sikkim and acclimatized there are now flowering, and trials are also underway in other areas. Thus it is possible that the total crop output could increase and possibly lower the world wholesale price.


The crocus plant name comes from the pre-Greek Assyrian word krokos, meaning yellow, and the name of the spice is from the Persian word za'fran for 'gold strung,' the subsequent Latin form safranum, and the derivative 12th-century Old French term safran.

Previously saffron was used mainly in the form of tinctures, obtained by heating the stigmas with ethanol. More recently, saffron essential oil or attar has been extracted by enfleurage, an ancient and slow cold process in which flowers or flower parts are laid gently on a thin layer of a fat such as shea butter, which is reapplied each day for a month or so until the fat is saturated with the scent. This fat, called a 'pomade,' is then washed repeatedly in alcohol and chilled and filtered several times to make the extract. However, the most concentrated and stable single-note essential oil, absolute, or concrete now can be obtained through steam/hydro-distillation or supercritical CO2 extraction.


Saffron is a somewhat ambiguous perfume note. The basic tone is a warm, woody, leathery-earthy, somewhat sweet, hay-like scent with violet and tobacco facets, and described as soft, rich and intimate. It is said to give notes of metallic or musky honey and hints of coumarin, hay, and grass. However, it also has a unique quality, a phenolic leathery and iodine ('medical') nuance that reminds some people of hospital smells. According to perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, "Saffron is a unique perfume material not the least for its multi-faceted nature. Since it's ultimately a flower, it has a wonderful way of adding a floral bouquet to the heart of a fragrance as well as acting as a catalyst for spices, citruses, and resins. Saffron also has a great affinity for the indolic and the animalic; it does wonderful things with animal notes in the base." Saffron blends particularly well with cedar and agarwood, especially in masculine fragrances and autumn mixtures, as well as with rose and other florals. Saffron is used in perfumery mainly as a nuancer and modifier. 

Many modern Oriental and oud perfumes and attars contain notes of saffron. True saffron attar, now relatively rare, contains the full range of saffron volatiles co-distilled in a sandalwood medium. Saffron attar mixes well with frangipani, magnolia, flower of paradise, gardenia, and jasmine, and it complements other extracts such as orris, tobacco, opoponax, and osmanthus. The attar oil lasts for 6-8 hours on skin and may last more than 24 hours on clothing (but can stain them).


By volume, saffron's characteristic scent is due mainly to safranal (up to 70%), with contribution from a number of other aromatic ketones and aldehydes. (The most powerful individual chemical factor in the fragrance is a second molecule called 2-hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-1,5-cyclohexadiene-1-one, which also is, interestingly, the unique pheromone of the bark beetle.) In the West, perfume formulators generally now use less expensive synthesized safranal in most of their products rather than the natural product. Safranal is a difficult note to use, its dry and harsh tone at higher dosages making it dominate a composition. Safraleine (Givaudan) is a similar synthetic molecule that evokes the lush, leathery-suede, bittersweet tones of saffron. It has spicy, strong, hot-leather and tobacco facets, with a floral rose aspect. Safraleine is used primarily in unisex fragrances. Safranal's concentration in perfumes is limited not only by cost; it also is restricted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) to 0.005% in products with skin contact, due its sensitizing and irritating properties. The Brazilian company Evolva has successfully developed synthetic yeast that can cost-effectively produce each of the chemical components of natural saffron through fermentation, and its products are expected to be launched soon. This could lower the commercial cost of using saffron but will have a devastating effect on the saffron farmers, especially in Iran and Kashmir. Says the company, "Producing the key saffron components by fermentation has three main benefits. Firstly, it will allow saffron to be available at a much lower price than currently, which will both expand existing markets and open new ones. Secondly it will eliminate the many complexities involved in the current supply chain. Finally, by making each of the key components separately, it will enable the production of customized forms that are for example particularly rich in aroma, taste or colour and that can be adapted to specific food formulations and regional preferences."


Egyptian physicians were using saffron as a cure-all by 1600 BC; and Egyptian dancers wore wax cones with saffron on their heads, which melted and perfumed their hair and faces while they danced. It was prized for its aphrodisiac properties, and Cleopatra was said to bathe in saffron before romantic meetings with men. However, it was also found that in large concentrations, it produced narcotic effects, which could be deadly. It was used in India as a facial skin mask to brighten the complexion and lighten dark spots. Greeks described Zeus as having a bed of saffron, indicating great wealth. They used it in perfumery, often as a single note, and it was traded throughout the Mediterranean by them and by the Phoenicians. During his Asian campaigns, Alexander the Great used Persian saffron in his army's infusions, rice, and baths as a curative for battle wounds, and he washed his hair with it. Romans spiced their foods with saffron and perfumed their baths and marriage beds with it, and they tossed it around on the floors of public places for special occasions. Ladies in the court of Henry VIII dyed their hair with saffron until the king, fearing it would reduce his supply of saffron for cooking, banned the practice.


Saffron is still used medicinally, including as a narcotic medication, in regions of Asia and the Mediterranean. In the modern West it has been used in the production of some medicines, and research suggests its value in many applications. Its derivative safranal has been shown to be an effective anticonvulsant. Research has suggested that the crocin in saffron can trigger cell death in a variety of cancers, including leukemia, ovarian carcinoma, and colon carcinoma. Studies have shown that it slows tumor growth and extends lifespan in rats with cancer, and one study indicated that it may be significantly less likely to cause birth defects when given to pregnant women than all-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA), making it a viable alternative for treating some cancers in women of childbearing age. Other studies have shown that saffron has strong antioxidant properties that can neutralize free radicals which are by-products of aging, boosting immune system health. Two of its components, crocetin and crocin, seem to improve memory and learning skills in learning-impaired rats, suggesting that it may be useful in treating neurodegenerative disorders such as Alzheimer's disease. Several studies confirm that saffron relieves mild depression, anxiety, and social phobia, especially in adolescents. It helps to reduce skin scarring, including acne scarring. Saffron has been shown to improve visual acuity, especially in early macular degeneration. And saffron contains compounds that are shown to stimulate the endocrine system, regulate insulin production, and reduced cholesterol levels, improving hormone balance and overall health. Finally, studies suggest that it mitigates pain during narcotic withdrawal, can improve injured peripheral nerve function, and can relieve arthritis and gout pain.

There are no known side effects or health hazards associated with the recommended oral dosages of saffron preparations in healthy, non-pregnant individuals, but at higher doses (above 12g) it can cause kidney damage, central nervous system paralysis, and even death. It should not be used in pregnant women because it can cause uterine contractions.

Saffron attar is commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine for a large number of ailments and in aromatherapy because of its warm and mood-soothing aroma. It is used still in Southwest Asia as an aphrodisiac and to improve sexual function, especially in those with depression.

Bittersweet picrocrocin is mainly responsible for the pungent, hay-like flavor of saffron, whose use in foods has been recorded since at least 2500 BC. Sumerians, Minoans, and Egyptians spiced foods with saffron, and they actively traded in it throughout the Mideast. Safranal also contributes in a minor way to the flavor. The distinctive water-soluble color of saffron is important for some foods in addition to its flavoring, especially in Mediterranean foods such as Spanish saffron rice and paella, Italian risotto, and the classic Provençal dish bouillabaisse, as well as in sweets and ice creams in the Middle East and India.

Alpha-crocin and carotenes are responsible for saffron's color, and their content is highest in fresh, undried threads. Saffron-based pigments have been found in 50,000-year-old cave art in Iran. The Egyptians dyed wrapping cloths of mummies with it, adding urine to preserve the golden color. Saffron has long been used by Buddhist monks, especially those from Tibet, for dying their robes, in addition to its use in their religious ceremonies. Old copies of the Koran and Tibetan scrolls indicate that scribes used saffron to make inks, and it was mixed with egg white by the Greeks and Chinese to make a dye for illuminating important manuscripts. 


Masculine perfume products that contain significant saffron include the following:

Amouage Epic Man, Lyric Man
Amouroud Oud After Dark, Oud du Jour, Oud Tabac
Byredo Accord Oud, Black Saffron, Lil Fleur, Reine de Nuit
Calvin Klein Liquid Gold Euphoria
Cerruti l'Essence
Cumaru Raiz L’Occitane Au Brésil
Davidoff Silver Shadow, Leather Blend
Dzintars Strong Man
Ermenegildo Zegna Persian Saffron
Escada Magnetism
Fragrance du Bois Arabesque Attar, Cannabis Intense, Oud du Bois Attar, Petales de Cashmere, Rose du Bois Attar, Saharaa Oud
Francesca dell'Oro Very Tight
Francis Kurkdjian Oud, Baccarat Rouge 540
Giorgio Armani Summer Mania, Oud Royal, Mania
Henry Jacques White Saffron Or
House of Sillage Dignified
Hugo Boss Bottled Oud Saffron
Initio Oud for Greatness
Issey Miyake l'Eau d'Issey
Jacques Bogart One Man Show Ruby
Junaid Jamshed Oudh Qadim
Korres Saffron Spices
Marc-Antoine Barrois B683
Marly Godolphin, Habdan
Massimo Dutti Kashbah Sunset
Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord
Montale Aoud Musk
New York Amber Bond No. 9
Nishane Musiqa Oud, Nefs, Safran Colognise
Penhaligon's Halfeti, No. 33, Trad Routes Cairo, Vaara
Perfume Calligraphy Saffron Aramis
Prada Amber pour Homme
Rasasi La Yuqawam
Réveur pour Homme
Roja Aoud, Amber Aoud, Qatar, Sultanate of Oman
Swedoft Royal Satisfaction
Ted Lapidus Black Extreme
Versace Man, Dylan Blue
Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb
Vince Camuto Eterno
Widian Arabia, Delma, Gold II Sahara, Liwa
Xerjoff Blue Hope, Casamorati Dolce Amalfi, 1888, Oud Stars Gao, Wardasina
Yanbal Jaque
Yves St. Laurent Cuir
Zara Red Temptation

Nag Champa, Champaca, and Magnolia

Nag Champa

Nag champa is the name of a perfume oil originally made in Hindu and Buddhist monasteries of India and Nepal and used to perfume incense for religious ceremonies. It traditionally has been made with a sandalwood base, to which were added a variety of flower oils, most often oil from the flower of the Magnolia champaca tree (sometimes called champak in English) or the frangipani flower. When frangipani was used, the fragrance usually has been referred to simply as champa.


Nag champa perfume ingredients vary with the manufacturer. Other additional ingredients beyond the sandalwood base and champaca flower depend upon the design and purpose of the finished product: perfume-dipped incenses and soaps generally use various essential oils or scents, while masala incenses use finely ground fragrance sources, pressed and rolled onto fine bamboo sticks, as well as some essential oils. 


The best-known nag champa incense is produced by followers of the guru Satya Sai Baba in Bangalore. Its precise ingredients are secret, but the formula is said to contain a base of sandalwood and a distinctively gray-brown resin known as halmaddi, derived from the Ailanthus malabarica tree and said to smell very much like the champaca flower. Formulas have changed over time as certain ingredients, including both the champaca flower and halmaddi, have gotten more expensive. (Booming development in India has made land increasingly precious, and farmers are asking higher and higher prices for their flower products to justify not selling their land.) Incense blends now often contain vanilla, cardamom, and orange flower, especially for low-priced sticks. Mesua ferrea (nagkeshar) oil is sometimes used as an alternative in scents called nag champa.


Nag champa oil actually is used relatively infrequently in perfumery because of its high cost. It has a sweet, slightly woody smell that is described as warm, moist, and heady but calming. It is said to be reminiscent of jasmine or magnolia flowers, a forest, or tea. It usually is included in the Resins and Balsams fragrance group or the White Floral group. The scent is considered neither masculine nor feminine in character, so it mainly appears in those called unisex. It mixes nicely with other warm and spicy aromas, and it is used commonly in floral compositions, primarily those with rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang. It also blends very well with sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, lovage root, Siam wood, neroli, and bergamot.


Popular for centuries in Indian and Asian incense, nag champa was traded only rarely in Europe until fairly recently. The scent eventually made its way to Europe and the U.S., especially in the 1960s and 1970s, when large numbers of Western travelers and 'spiritual seekers' began to explore India and Nepal. Not long after that, Bob Dylan began to burn nag champa onstage at his concerts, as did the Grateful Dead, and it appeared in 'head shops' throughout the U.S.


Champaca

A number of flowering evergreen tree species are known as champa or champak: primarily Magnolia champaca (also known as Joy Perfume Tree, yellow jade orchid, or Himalayan champaca), Plumeria rubra or Plumeria acutifolia (both called frangipani), and Mesua ferrea (Ceylon ironwood). All are native to tropical and subtropical areas of India, Indochina, Malaysia, and southern China. Of these, M. champaca is most often used to prepare scent for nag champa perfume products. It is a popular and recognizable fragrance that is also included in many soaps, fragrance oils, candles, and personal toiletries.


For perfumery, the champaca essential oil, absolute, CO2 distillate, or concrete is obtained from the flower petals. Red flowers are considered the most fragrant, followed by yellow and white. The flowers are said to be harvested only at night because the scent is thought to be at its highest quality then. According to botanists, the tree is so fragrant when blooming that its scent can be detected from one hundred meters away.


The essential oil has a penetrating, dark, exotic, rich, seductive aroma that is reminiscent of tea and spices, as well as an intense floral tone that some - but not all - compare to orange blossom. Its drydown also has hints of hay and tobacco. Champaca is also related to star anise, and champaca essential oil's scent shares some of its spicy characteristics. The scents of the absolutes are said to be warmer and richer and to vary from being fruity and reminiscent of white magnolia to spicy, full-bodied, and wine-like.


Champaca CO2 distillate is similar to the absolute but less complex, with a sultry but flatter and thinner fragrance, and it sometimes is used in combination with the concrete for more fullness and body. The CO2 extract is simpler because it does not contain the artifactual or decomposition hydrocarbons that are found in the essential oil, it is free of solvent residue and has less wax than a regular distillate. Some, however, say that it actually has a fragrance profile closer to that of the fresh unpicked flowers. The concrete is said to be a favorite of some perfumers because of its especially rich, complex, tea-like undertones, sweet body note, and minty-herbal-spicy overtones.


The perfumer Stephen Arctander describes champaca generally as being similar to waxy, smoky, tea rose-like guaiac wood, which he says is sometimes used to adulterate champaca and decrease the cost to retailers.

Jean Patou's famous perfume Joy, the second-best selling perfume in the world and advertised at one time as the world's costliest perfume, contains essential oil of red champaca flowers (which is why it is sometimes is called the Joy Perfume Tree). Champaca is very expensive and is used infrequently and in very small amounts in most perfume product compositions. However, use of champaca absolute as a single or predominant note has once again increased recently in products from a small number of niche perfumers.

Champaca's primary scent constituents are linalool (about 60%), benzyl acetate, and phenylethyl alcohol (a light rose alcohol). Other chemical constituents of the fragrance are methyl benzoate, phenylacetonitrile, indole (animalic undertones), and methyl anthranilate (heady like orange blossom), along with various sesquiterpenes, ionones, and esters.

The M. champaca flower has long been prized in India for its bright yellow-orange, red, or white color and its powerful yet delicate fragrance, and the tree was often planted near ashrams (religious communities). It was considered sacred to the Hindu gods Shiva and Vishnu, and the flowers and incense have been used primarily for religious worship there. Sacred groves of wild champaca trees, providing refuges for threatened plants and animals, are still maintained by tribal communities in southwestern India. In Theraveda Buddhism, champaca is said to be the tree under which the Lord Buddha achieved Bodhi (enlightenment).


Indian women traditionally tucked champa buds behind their ears, where the body heat warmed and opened the petals and allowed the scent to escape. The flowers sometimes were floated in a bowl of water to scent a room and have been used to decorate bridal beds and small garlands. The tree also has been used as a source of timber used in woodworking.

In Ayurvedic medicine, champaca is considered to be specific treatment for general debility, malarial fever, circulation problems, airway diseases, digestive diseases, and skin disorders. Champaca has been used in several cultures as an aphrodisiac, antidepressant, and relaxant, and it is said to induce euphoria at higher doses. It is reputed to strengthen the mind but can also impede concentration. In massage therapy it is said to moisturize and rejuvenate aging skin and to add strength to muscles and joints. Linalool in champaca oil has been shown in scientific studies to modulate stress responses, to have anti-anxiety effects, to improve the quality of sleep, and to decrease aggressive behavior.

Magnolia

Fossils of plants belonging to the Magnoliaceae family have been dated to 95 million years ago. Magnolia, named after the French botanist Pierre Magnol, is a large and ancient genus in this family. Appearing on earth before the presence of bees, magnolia flowers are thought to have evolved to encourage pollination by beetles. The world natural distribution of magnolias has a main center in east and southeast Asia and a secondary center in southeastern North America, Central America, and the West Indies. The flower has been cultivated in China and Japan for centuries, and the practice spread from there. The first cultivated magnolia in Europe was the Virginiana species, sent by a missionary in the American colonies in 1687 to an English bishop and gardener.


Magnolia flowers and leaves are often but not always fragrant. The flower scent is creamy and sweet with a light citrus nuance, while the leaf scent is similar but greener and less sweet. Three molecules account for most of the characteristic magnolia scent balance: (Z)-jasmone (27%), verbenone (18%), and isopinocamphone (9%), with the latter two providing a green and camphoraceous-medicinal facet.

The oil from flowers and leaves of Magnolia grandiflora (white magnolia) or Michelia alba (a hybrid of Magnolia champaca and Magnolia montana) is most often used in perfumery with the magnolia name. The scent is both fresh and lush, sweet, rose-like and violet-like, and has peach and citrus undertones. It is intense and said to be 'crowded' with notes, giving it a somewhat heavy, dark style that was especially popular in the 1980s. Says expert William Poucher, "The perfume of the majority of species of Magnolia is exotic, and the fragrance resembles that of a ylang ylang-lily complex, with a shading of clove and a top note of lemon." Most magnolia oil now is produced in China, either as an essential oil or a CO2 distillate. The CO2 extract form has an intensely fruity, peach-like aroma with slight green/clean notes and hints of fresh gardenia.


Nag champa fragrances (unisex except as noted):
Alkemia Psychedelique
Arcana Wildcraft Shiva's Trident
Ava Luxe Nag Champa
Carlos Santana (masculine)
Caron Narcisse Noir
Commes de Garcons Guerilla 1
Czech & Speake No. 88 (masculine)
Goth Rosary Nocturnal
Loree Rodkin Gothic II
Yves St. Laurent Kouros (masculine)

Champaca fragrances:
4711 Sir Champaca (masculine)
Areej Le Dore Koh-i-Noor, Walimah
Bortnikoff Coup de Foudre
Ormonde Jayne Champaca
Prissana Mandarava
Thorn & Bloom Limestone
Tom Ford Champaca Absolute

Magnolia fragrances:
Andree Putman Magnolys
Areej Le Dore Walimah
Attar Selective III
Avon Life Colour (masculine)
Bahoma London Jolie
Boellis Condotti
By Kilian Asian Tales Water Calligraphy
Collistar la Rosa
Cuarzo the Circle Just Gold
Etry D
Evocative Fleur de Magnolia
Floraiku Cricket Song
Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia
Fueguia 1833 Agua Magnoliana, Un Deux Trois, Malena
Hermes Un Jardin sur la Lagune, Un Jardin sur le Toit
Initio High Frequency
Jo Malone Amber & Patchouli, London Star Magnolia
Le Chereche Midi
Mirus Ceremony
Moresque Midnight London
Nasomatto Pardon
Nomaterra Savannah Magnolia
Penhaligon's Vaara
Pineider Classica adi Magnolia (masculine)
Ralph Lauren Song of America Magnolia
Sentifique Party
Sonia Kashuk Pink Innocencia
Valmont Jazzy Twist
Xerjoff Allende
Yakura Belen

Very, very informative, John. Thank you for the effort.

Nag Champa, Champaca, and Magnolia

Nag Champa

Nag champa is the name of a perfume oil originally made in Hindu and Buddhist monasteries of India and Nepal and used to perfume incense for religious ceremonies. It traditionally has been made with a sandalwood base, to which were added a variety of flower oils, most often oil from the flower of the Magnolia champaca tree (sometimes called champak in English) or the frangipani flower. When frangipani was used, the fragrance usually has been referred to simply as champa.


Nag champa perfume ingredients vary with the manufacturer. Other additional ingredients beyond the sandalwood base and champaca flower depend upon the design and purpose of the finished product: perfume-dipped incenses and soaps generally use various essential oils or scents, while masala incenses use finely ground fragrance sources, pressed and rolled onto fine bamboo sticks, as well as some essential oils. 


The best-known nag champa incense is produced by followers of the guru Satya Sai Baba in Bangalore. Its precise ingredients are secret, but the formula is said to contain a base of sandalwood and a distinctively gray-brown resin known as halmaddi, derived from the Ailanthus malabarica tree and said to smell very much like the champaca flower. Formulas have changed over time as certain ingredients, including both the champaca flower and halmaddi, have gotten more expensive. (Booming development in India has made land increasingly precious, and farmers are asking higher and higher prices for their flower products to justify not selling their land.) Incense blends now often contain vanilla, cardamom, and orange flower, especially for low-priced sticks. Mesua ferrea (nagkeshar) oil is sometimes used as an alternative in scents called nag champa.


Nag champa oil actually is used relatively infrequently in perfumery because of its high cost. It has a sweet, slightly woody smell that is described as warm, moist, and heady but calming. It is said to be reminiscent of jasmine or magnolia flowers, a forest, or tea. It usually is included in the Resins and Balsams fragrance group or the White Floral group. The scent is considered neither masculine nor feminine in character, so it mainly appears in those called unisex. It mixes nicely with other warm and spicy aromas, and it is used commonly in floral compositions, primarily those with rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang. It also blends very well with sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, lovage root, Siam wood, neroli, and bergamot.


Popular for centuries in Indian and Asian incense, nag champa was traded only rarely in Europe until fairly recently. The scent eventually made its way to Europe and the U.S., especially in the 1960s and 1970s, when large numbers of Western travelers and 'spiritual seekers' began to explore India and Nepal. Not long after that, Bob Dylan began to burn nag champa onstage at his concerts, as did the Grateful Dead, and it appeared in 'head shops' throughout the U.S.


Champaca

A number of flowering evergreen tree species are known as champa or champak: primarily Magnolia champaca (also known as Joy Perfume Tree, yellow jade orchid, or Himalayan champaca), Plumeria rubra or Plumeria acutifolia (both called frangipani), and Mesua ferrea (Ceylon ironwood). All are native to tropical and subtropical areas of India, Indochina, Malaysia, and southern China. Of these, M. champaca is most often used to prepare scent for nag champa perfume products. It is a popular and recognizable fragrance that is also included in many soaps, fragrance oils, candles, and personal toiletries.


For perfumery, the champaca essential oil, absolute, CO2 distillate, or concrete is obtained from the flower petals. Red flowers are considered the most fragrant, followed by yellow and white. The flowers are said to be harvested only at night because the scent is thought to be at its highest quality then. According to botanists, the tree is so fragrant when blooming that its scent can be detected from one hundred meters away.


The essential oil has a penetrating, dark, exotic, rich, seductive aroma that is reminiscent of tea and spices, as well as an intense floral tone that some - but not all - compare to orange blossom. Its drydown also has hints of hay and tobacco. Champaca is also related to star anise, and champaca essential oil's scent shares some of its spicy characteristics. The scents of the absolutes are said to be warmer and richer and to vary from being fruity and reminiscent of white magnolia to spicy, full-bodied, and wine-like.


Champaca CO2 distillate is similar to the absolute but less complex, with a sultry but flatter and thinner fragrance, and it sometimes is used in combination with the concrete for more fullness and body. The CO2 extract is simpler because it does not contain the artifactual or decomposition hydrocarbons that are found in the essential oil, it is free of solvent residue and has less wax than a regular distillate. Some, however, say that it actually has a fragrance profile closer to that of the fresh unpicked flowers. The concrete is said to be a favorite of some perfumers because of its especially rich, complex, tea-like undertones, sweet body note, and minty-herbal-spicy overtones.


The perfumer Stephen Arctander describes champaca generally as being similar to waxy, smoky, tea rose-like guaiac wood, which he says is sometimes used to adulterate champaca and decrease the cost to retailers.

Jean Patou's famous perfume Joy, the second-best selling perfume in the world and advertised at one time as the world's costliest perfume, contains essential oil of red champaca flowers (which is why it is sometimes is called the Joy Perfume Tree). Champaca is very expensive and is used infrequently and in very small amounts in most perfume product compositions. However, use of champaca absolute as a single or predominant note has once again increased recently in products from a small number of niche perfumers.

Champaca's primary scent constituents are linalool (about 60%), benzyl acetate, and phenylethyl alcohol (a light rose alcohol). Other chemical constituents of the fragrance are methyl benzoate, phenylacetonitrile, indole (animalic undertones), and methyl anthranilate (heady like orange blossom), along with various sesquiterpenes, ionones, and esters.

The M. champaca flower has long been prized in India for its bright yellow-orange, red, or white color and its powerful yet delicate fragrance, and the tree was often planted near ashrams (religious communities). It was considered sacred to the Hindu gods Shiva and Vishnu, and the flowers and incense have been used primarily for religious worship there. Sacred groves of wild champaca trees, providing refuges for threatened plants and animals, are still maintained by tribal communities in southwestern India. In Theraveda Buddhism, champaca is said to be the tree under which the Lord Buddha achieved Bodhi (enlightenment).


Indian women traditionally tucked champa buds behind their ears, where the body heat warmed and opened the petals and allowed the scent to escape. The flowers sometimes were floated in a bowl of water to scent a room and have been used to decorate bridal beds and small garlands. The tree also has been used as a source of timber used in woodworking.

In Ayurvedic medicine, champaca is considered to be specific treatment for general debility, malarial fever, circulation problems, airway diseases, digestive diseases, and skin disorders. Champaca has been used in several cultures as an aphrodisiac, antidepressant, and relaxant, and it is said to induce euphoria at higher doses. It is reputed to strengthen the mind but can also impede concentration. In massage therapy it is said to moisturize and rejuvenate aging skin and to add strength to muscles and joints. Linalool in champaca oil has been shown in scientific studies to modulate stress responses, to have anti-anxiety effects, to improve the quality of sleep, and to decrease aggressive behavior.

Magnolia

Fossils of plants belonging to the Magnoliaceae family have been dated to 95 million years ago. Magnolia, named after the French botanist Pierre Magnol, is a large and ancient genus in this family. Appearing on earth before the presence of bees, magnolia flowers are thought to have evolved to encourage pollination by beetles. The world natural distribution of magnolias has a main center in east and southeast Asia and a secondary center in southeastern North America, Central America, and the West Indies. The flower has been cultivated in China and Japan for centuries, and the practice spread from there. The first cultivated magnolia in Europe was the Virginiana species, sent by a missionary in the American colonies in 1687 to an English bishop and gardener.


Magnolia flowers and leaves are often but not always fragrant. The flower scent is creamy and sweet with a light citrus nuance, while the leaf scent is similar but greener and less sweet. Three molecules account for most of the characteristic magnolia scent balance: (Z)-jasmone (27%), verbenone (18%), and isopinocamphone (9%), with the latter two providing a green and camphoraceous-medicinal facet.

The oil from flowers and leaves of Magnolia grandiflora (white magnolia) or Michelia alba (a hybrid of Magnolia champaca and Magnolia montana) is most often used in perfumery with the magnolia name. The scent is both fresh and lush, sweet, rose-like and violet-like, and has peach and citrus undertones. It is intense and said to be 'crowded' with notes, giving it a somewhat heavy, dark style that was especially popular in the 1980s. Says expert William Poucher, "The perfume of the majority of species of Magnolia is exotic, and the fragrance resembles that of a ylang ylang-lily complex, with a shading of clove and a top note of lemon." Most magnolia oil now is produced in China, either as an essential oil or a CO2 distillate. The CO2 extract form has an intensely fruity, peach-like aroma with slight green/clean notes and hints of fresh gardenia.


Nag champa fragrances (unisex except as noted):
Alkemia Psychedelique
Arcana Wildcraft Shiva's Trident
Ava Luxe Nag Champa
Carlos Santana (masculine)
Caron Narcisse Noir
Commes de Garcons Guerilla 1
Czech & Speake No. 88 (masculine)
Goth Rosary Nocturnal
Loree Rodkin Gothic II
Yves St. Laurent Kouros (masculine)

Champaca fragrances:
4711 Sir Champaca (masculine)
Areej Le Dore Koh-i-Noor, Walimah
Bortnikoff Coup de Foudre
Ormonde Jayne Champaca
Prissana Mandarava
Thorn & Bloom Limestone
Tom Ford Champaca Absolute

Magnolia fragrances:
Andree Putman Magnolys
Areej Le Dore Walimah
Attar Selective III
Avon Life Colour (masculine)
Bahoma London Jolie
Boellis Condotti
By Kilian Asian Tales Water Calligraphy
Collistar la Rosa
Cuarzo the Circle Just Gold
Etry D
Evocative Fleur de Magnolia
Floraiku Cricket Song
Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia
Fueguia 1833 Agua Magnoliana, Un Deux Trois, Malena
Hermes Un Jardin sur la Lagune, Un Jardin sur le Toit
Initio High Frequency
Jo Malone Amber & Patchouli, London Star Magnolia
Le Chereche Midi
Mirus Ceremony
Moresque Midnight London
Nasomatto Pardon
Nomaterra Savannah Magnolia
Penhaligon's Vaara
Pineider Classica adi Magnolia (masculine)
Ralph Lauren Song of America Magnolia
Sentifique Party
Sonia Kashuk Pink Innocencia
Valmont Jazzy Twist
Xerjoff Allende
Yakura Belen

Great stuff. Love these posts. Thank you

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

churchilllafemme 
I love this.
Thanks a lot.
Again.