Flashlights

I just keep a set of batteries in the trickle charger for a quick swap when needed.

(This post has turned into a far longer one than I intended.)

Yup. Heat is another potential hazard. Storage ina car is a no no, especially in the summer. They can start to behave badly just by being in heat. They can begin a degradation reaction and then it just feeds on itself. Your car could be engulfed and you did nothing. At least to your eyes. LEDs with primary cells (non rechargeable) don't have that problem. Our cars have smaller one cell Li cells (primary) in them for emergency use. They have a 15 year lifespan. My rechargeables get used every day, except for the ones in my slung pack. They get checked at least once a month. Yes and never charge a battery without someone being present.

One of the things I like about the Opus charger is that I can program the charge rate. It also will discharge a battery for storage at a programmed rate. Rechargeables will degrade no matter how they're stored, but having them always fully charged is the fastest way to degrade them. Discharging to a half charge and putting them in the refrigerator, as close to 32°F is best. My spare batteries are in the beer/BBQ refrigerator in the shop. BTW, a discharged cell is never discharged below 2.7- 2.8 volts if you like the cell. A deeper discharge harms it and we already discussed Li-Ion bombs. Recharging before it gets to that voltage if it's in use is strongly suggested. For me, using a light every night, a few times per night, once every month or 2 is plenty soon enough for recharging, but the voltage can be tested and many lights won't allow a cell to be discharged below that magic voltage*. Unused Li-ion cells don't readily self discharge, but again, they will age and slowly degrade.

*One can be using the light and all of a sudden it will just shut off. That's either the light saving the battery, or if the battery is "protected" the protection on the cell switched it off. Protected cells are safer than unprotected. I use unprotected cells in critical duty lights where light must be had and I don't care if the battery is harmed. I also use them in my L6, but I'm very careful to match them and keep an eye on critical measurements that gauge how the cell(s) are doing. Once I get protected 26650s (KeepPower 5400mah) I'll discharge my present Basen 26650s and put them in cold storage.

When Bruce mentions damage, that includes even a small dent. One does not play games with these cells. It just isn't worth it.

Oh, and never buy cells with the word "fire" in the name unless those exact cells have been tested as being good ones. China is rewrapping used cells and they have a tendency to use fire in the various brand names. They are just a bomb waiting to happen. I just recycled 4 "fire" batteries that were absolute garbage. Another tip off is a claim for fantastic capacity. 18650s have a top capacity at this time of about 3500mah. If it was possible to make one with higher capacity, Sony, Panasonic, Samsung, and any other big players would be doing it. So if a battery claims higher than that just run away from it. You know it's garbage. The "fire" batteries I just recycled? They claimed 5400 mah capacity, but when I bought them I just didn't know. That's not the case with 26650s that I know of... yet. And good 26650s can have higher capacity than 3500mah becasuse they're a physically larger battery. I know they're available with a capacity of 5400mah.

If someone knows what they're doing, and I don't, batteries can be reclaimed from used and trashed computer battery packs taken from the recycle bin. But one must absolutely KNOW what one is doing. Short out the pack or cell or cells and one has a potential bomb. Then one must know how to determine if the individual cells are still good before using. Remember those terrible Chinese rewrapped batteries? That's how they got them. But some cells in a battery pack can be good. I was given 2 cells that were reclaimed and they're fine. But since I have no present use for them they are at 1/2 charge (it's called "discharged") and in cold storage. To my knowledge the danger potential of cells in that condition is close to zero.

Depending on capacity really good 18650 cells will cost about $7-$10, and state of the art 26650s will cost up to $15. Unless I know for sure that cells from a supplier I don't normally use are tested and found to be reputable I buy my cells from Mountain Electronics. I have no connection with them except as a full retail paying customer. Other outlets that are considered reputable are Banggood, Gearbest, and Aliexpress. Simon at Aliexpress is the manufacturer of Convoy lights.

Way too many words. I need to stop.

There's plenty of this information on The Candlepower forum, and Budgetlight forum.

I agree with what ShadowDay says.

If anyone is serious about getting a new flashlight, See http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/index.html Besides testing them, he also recommends some in different sizes. I have this light for awhile its its pretty good http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/show...php?358491

Grim, I hope folks interested in these lights figure out that we keep harping on handling these cells safely, for a reason.
To put it into maybe a better perspective, when I use my L6 in turbo mode it's drawing over 5 amps from the battery (2 cells = a battery) and can do that for 2 hours. That's huge energy density and not to be taken lightly. FWIW, the battery can deliver far more energy and that's what makes them dangerous if misused. I don't want anyone to hurt themselves because all they got from what I wrote was about the light output and performance.

OK, off of my soap box now.

I just got 2 protected 5200mah 26650 KeepPower batteries in today, and am testing them to determine their true capacity, I expect it'll actually be slightly over 5200mah. Then the OPUS will final charge them for use, after reporting their true capacity. The Basen 3400mah batteries will be discharged and put in cold storage.

Had a problem with one of the batteries right out the gate. The charger couldn't recognize one of them. The insulating wrapper was holding the charger electrode away from the contact on the battery. I had the foresight to order 6mm x 1.5mm neo' ( a rare earth element) something or other magnets for just that possibility at some nebulous time in the future. That time arrived. One magnet on the electrode completes the contact in the charger and it's working fine. Since the magnet is so small I ordered some 15mm x 1mm magnets of the same type for the 26650s for use inside lights. In this case though I don't think that contact will be a problem while inside the light. IMO, if a magnet is ever used inside a light to make contact between batteries a bit of electrical tape to hold the batteries together would insure that the magnet never touches the inside wall of the light. That condition would result in a catastrophic short circuit.

Edited so as not to bring this back up to the top.

Edit: The 2 new KeepPower 5200maH batteries actual measured capacities are 5303 and 5245maH. That's a lot of wattage.

Yet another unique use for LED flashlights. This one is a flashlight that produces black light (UV= ultra violet). We can't see UV, but it excites certain chemicals that can be seen as they fluoresce.

I specifically bought it to cure optically clear glue for use with tritium vials, but it has other uses; I just used the glue as an excuse. One additional use is to check for proper sanitation in motel/hotel rooms and bathrooms. Dry body fluids fluoresce brightly and are easily seen even in daylight but more easily in the dark or subdued lighting. Another use might be when sitting down at a restaurant to check the table. I've been playing with it outdoors at night to see what I've been missing by using only sunlight. Many plant leaves are a very deeply saturated red when bathed in intense UV. You wouldn't believe how intense the fluorescence is on copy paper and labels. Anything to make them stand out for purchase; even in daylight one will see the brightness of the fluorescence, but it will be muted with white light. My white ankle socks that I wear with sandals fluoresce extremely brightly. Some minerals also fluoresce.

If you've watched Hotel Hell you've seen black light in use as Gordon Ramsey checks the sheets. His UV light is huge and runs on 110v, this is tiny, self contained, and works just as well as his and it may even be (invisibly) brighter. It's a nice unit. It's also a germophobes worst nightmare as everything that was invisible before is easily seen and verifies the worst fears. But really, does anyone want to sleep in or on some elses body fluids? (I never thought I'd use that emoticon) Or use a hopper and sink sprayed with body fluids? It's all visible in UV. But not all that's visible in UV is body fluid. That is a catch. You'll figure out what is and what isn't. It's easy to differentiate a puddle, drop, or spray from cleaning fluid.

A word of warning. UV light is not eye safe, so eye protection is called for. UV safety glasses can be purchased inexpensively (~$4) . But my everyday polycarbonate eyeglasses are UV safe. It's easy to test for it. Just shine the light toward copy paper and put the eyeglass lens over the light. If they're UV safe lenses the glow will cease on the paper. Obviously don't look at the light directly with or without eye protection. It might not blind you but you'll get "flash" if your eyes are unprotected. It'll feel as though you have sand in your eyes for up to 36 hours and it's definitely not good for the eyes long term. I never allow the UV reflection to "enter" my eye through anything other than my eyeglass lens (remember about UV protective lenses) . That means facing it's reflection straight on for me. I never allow the direct beam to contact my lens or to shine into my eye.

There is only one mode on this light and that's on (or off). Current draw is 700ma. I have a 18650 2080mah battery in mine and that will give me a runtime of almost 3 hours. The light gets warm in use but it'll never overheat. Since it's a LED it produces almost pure 365nm UV light. It's a high quality Nichia LED and visible light is minimal. It only runs off of a 18650 battery.

Here's the light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_277704.html

As always I have no connection of any sort, other than as a retail customer, to the linked to vendor.

Since getting my UV light I've gotten quite an education.

Edit: I used it today for curing the Norland 61 optical glue. After each application of glue I gave it 3 minutes of intense UV to cure it. A few extra applications of glue to reinforce the extremely frail glass vials.

The result? a lit switch. Here the vials glow is helped by me shining the UV light unto them. The switch normally doesn't glow that way, it's just reflection doing that.

[Image: DSC04382_zpscqmudv5e.jpg]

Now I'm going small.

I ordered one Thorfire TG06 which uses a AA of any sort to test it. I had a NiMh battery in it and it was OK but nothing to write home about. But since they can use Lithium primary cells I ordered some more TG06s for the autos. Then I ordered some 14500 Li-Ion rechargeables. The output went from (approx') 100 lumens to 360 lumens. The TG06s in the cars will keep their primary batteries since they can take freezing and heat and have a 20 year lifespan (unused), but the other TG06s have all gotten 14500s. The runtime at full output isn't long, and they'll get hot rapidly, but the light is small so it's all understandable. For a time it was my key ring light (OK actually a genuine carabiner and not a keyring). In high mode it will light up my backyard out to 50 yards and it's a very usable brightness that far out. With a 14500 medium brightness is the same as full brightness with any AA battery.

The TG06 would make a pretty good tactical light because it has a forward clicky switch in the base and it ALWAYS comes on at full power with just a 1/2 press. A full press to get a click keeps it on (or maintain the 1/2 press), and from 1/2 press, quick on/off 1/2 presses cycles it through the modes, one 1/2 press per mode. It's a nice small tactical light. 360 lumens is much brighter than it sounds. It's blinding.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/39040

But I'm going even smaller, and this will probably be as small as I'll ever go. I ordered a granvela ultra tac k18 after doing a bunch of research. It's smaller than the TG06 and has the same output with a Li-Ion battery in place, but runtime is quite short on high, and it'll get hot because it's not much of a heatsink. But it will make a better keyring light. It's only there for emergencies and not a long term solution so runtime is no big deal IMO. Output will be fantastic with a Li-Ion, but runtime in high mode will be short, under 20 minutes; much longer in lower output modes. AAA batteries won't allow 360 lumens at all (100 lumens; same as with the TG06) but the runtime will be much longer with AAA primaries in place. The switch is a side switch and for that reason It's not so much a tac' light. I don't know yet if it's a forward clicky or a reverse clicky. Forward clickies are better for tac' lights because they work with a 1/2 press and reverse clickies don't.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42939

My K18 came in today and I had a 10440 all charged up waiting for it. It came with an alkaleak battery but I didn't even try it in the light.

Nice build, very small. I have no need to go smaller in a flashlight. It came with a ring attached and a small faux carabiner with a good spring holding the gate closed. But I don't trust faux carabiners so that'll be used elsewhere. I did put a 2nd large keyring onto it. So now it has the tiny ring, a second ring (<1"), and the larger ring that is approx' 1 1/4". This light is small and that'll help me hold onto it. The last large ring can go on my ring finger so that I don't drop it. I'll try that for a time to see how it works.

Yes, it's bright. It's as bright as the TG06 next to it in my hand but the beam is different, more floody and not as much throw, but neither of these is best in the role of being a huge light source, but I know that the TG06 will light up my backyard out to 50 yards. As I write this i'm just using it indoors in rooms with heavy overcast sky lighting them. I'll know more tonight after dark. I don't have big hands, the K18 (gold) is a hair less than 3" long and a hair over 1/2" in diameter.

[Image: k18_zpsg5tc9tok.jpg]

The UI is nicely done. To turn it on press and hold the switch for 1/2 second. To cycle through the brightness modes click the switch once when it's on. The brightness will increase from low, med', hi, then back to low. A rapid double click when on will put it into strobe mode. Whatever setting it's shut off at, it will remember and when it's turned back on will come back at that last brightness.

When off a rapid double click will show either a single flash of the light or a double flash. If it's a single flash that means that the switch has been locked out and the light can't come on without another fast double click. The light will flash twice and then the switch is enabled and will allow the light to be turned on with a 1/2 second press. Typical of side switches, it has a parasitic drain even when off. To prevent that drain just give the head a partial twist to break the contact required for current to flow. Don't forget to tighten the light halves when the light is required. (I've forgotten in the past as I'm simply not in the habit of breaking current flow by that means. ) But with a switch that will lock itself out the chance of it coming on in the pocket is close to nil. I'll charge the battery more frequently than required, so the parasitic drain isn't a problem; it's only in the range of micro amps anyway.

This light warms up rapidly in hi brightness. I haven't, and won't test it to see how hot it will get. As long runtimes in Hi simply aren't required from it. That's just not what it's designed for. Hi mode is just for short bursts.

It has a reversible clip that stops it from rolling and also allows use on a hat brim. I do have mine reversed since I can't envision it ever being required to be clipped onto a pocket. Time will tell on that.

It's a nice little light with an unbelievable output for it's size. It compares very favorably to the Streamlight that I saw a year ago but for far less money. I'm glad that I waited.

I agree with the sentiments expressed by others that LED flashlights are an outstanding development.  The vastly increased battery life, in particular, is a very welcome benefit.  I have an inexpensive Coast flashlight that uses AA batteries.  It works just as well as the older full-size flashlights, but is much smalller, more durable and the batteries last far longer.  There are also LED bulbs that replace incandescent bulbs in older flashlights, so they can be retrofitted.

LED's have revolutionized lighting.  I have replaced most of my light bulbs with LED bulbs.  Our power company offered a sale of bulbs that were about half the price of the box stores.

I have a couple LED bulbs, too, and think they are great.  The only thing to watch out for is using them in enclosed fixtures.  LED bulbs need air circulation or the electronic components overheat and fail prematurely.  Otherwise, they are very good indeed.  Some even have wireless speakers built in.  Pretty nifty if you ask me.

That 60W-equivalent LED: What you don’t know, and what no one will tell you…

The downside - follow ShadowsDad advice about batteries. They CAN explode - fire hazard. And there are pictures in flashlight forums of these things exploding while being charged.[/url]

There is also a problem with them exploding while not being charged.  That does not seem to deter people from using them.    After all, people carry cell phones in their pockets and use notebook computers.  I work with equipment that uses Lithium Ion batteries, and they require very specific testing before they can be certified for sale.  To the best of my knowledge, there are still only three test companies in the US that can perform this specialized validation.

Whereas your normal alkaline batteries will just go dead over a certain period of time, some of the flashlights will do a constant drain to their being no energy left while just sitting there doing nothing.

Just as important, perhaps more so, is that akaline batteries die gradually.  Rechargable batteries go dead quite rapidly after they start to fade a little.  How important that is depends on the situation.  When we were night diving back in the day, most of use used alkaline batteries for that reason.  For a flashlight used arouind the house, rechargables make a lot more sense, as they are less costly in the long run.

The latest crop of Li-Ion, while still a concern for safety and requiring user knowledge, are much safer than in the past. One of the things that makes them safer is the built in circuitry that stops current flow if too much current is being demanded (a short) or if the battery falls below a certain voltage. Some lights also have low voltage protection built in. One light last night, a Convoy L2 with only one battery went suddenly dark on me last night. When I put it in the charger I found that the battery still had most a full charge and was in no danger of needing low voltage protection. Probably the driver, or just the chip in the driver is bad. But these lights can be easily fixed.

Since my last post I received another light, a Kronos X5. It's ~1/4" longer than the TG06 seen above in my hand. The head is larger in diameter and is what needs the additional length. If lights were cars, this light would be a dragster. It uses special circuitry that will drain the tiny 14500 (AA size) cell in minutes on max' output. But what you get for that is incredible output for such a small light; an honest 1400 lumens out the end. It will brightly light out to 100 yards. But because the light is so small and there's no mass to absorb all of the heat, and so much current is going through the LED, it heats up rapidly. While the battery might have enough juice for 5 minutes on max' it can't be used continuously for that time. It also has a nice user interface. In configuration mode it allows the user to have either 4 or 7 brightness modes (you choose), I prefer the 7 steps because that also has moonlight mode which I use at night when the house is dark and silent. But the light also has a level 1 mode... once it's turned on just hold the switch for longer than 1 second to bypass all of the brightness steps and go right to max'. Or hold it again for bright strobe, again for low strobe, and yet again for bicycle light mode.

The x5 was my first FET driver light, but they're addictive, having that much light output. I asked a gent on the BLF forum to make a FET driven C8 for me. There's more to it than just the driver, the LED was modified too. It should be here in a day or 2. It'll be like the Kronos x5, except more of everything; more throw for more distance, brighter, longer runtime, and a bit more size than the x5 but it won't be a large light by any stretch of the imagination.

Then I found another factory made FET driven light, much the same size as a s2+. It's FET driven and just a hair larger than the X5. It should have similar output to the modded C8, but in a flood beam. I expect both of those new lights will be my new EDC lights because one never knows when that output will be needed. All of these lights use special high drain cells to power them with the current that they need to function at those levels. Of course they have much lower output levels to achieve long runtime.

Soon too I'll have new drivers coming in for my existing C8s; they should be here any day. These lights can be upgraded and fixed and I intend to do just that by upgrading mine with a new user interface and with more current sent to the LED for more output. They won't be FET drivers though.

I should probably take more pix. Heck, I should probably pose some that I've taken.

[Image: DSC04365_zpsjscbeiqc.jpg]

The C8 is the middle light, the L6 is all the way to the right. To the left of the C8 are 3 lights that introduced me to the new LED lights, but there are better lights. To the left of the C8 is a diving light, note the absence of cooling fins since it's intended for use underwater. Then a flood type light with 3 LEDS, and the L6 which I use slung over my neck to free up my hands. It looks more massive than it is. It's just a bit larger than a 2 D cell light but with far more capability.

[Image: DSC04366_zpsujib4zqj.jpg]

Today I charged the batteries in my most used lights since it's been a month since last charge. The L6 is used far more than any of the others and I use it heavily. It still had approx half a charge remaining. The L2, not pictured, had far more charge left. The L6 has more of a flood beam, but with it's massive output has really good throw. The L2 has 1/3 the output of the L6, but because of the much tighter beam has far more throw. I have the L2 set up for only one cell, but I can add an extension and put 2 cells into the light for 2x the runtime. The driver will control the added juice.