Essence by Tedalus

Now that is a real test   
I got shivers up my spine just reading it, poor Tedalus. One thing is for sure I won't lend you any razors 

Some pictures for those who were wondering about the sliding / magnets. You can see the indentation on the razor side, which aligns with the two nubs on the free piece. If you have aligned them properly before sliding, it should go relatively smooth. (You do have to use light force as the magnets are really strong … nothing dangerous, but it sounds like it smoothens out over time, which is even better.




If you didn’t align then properly, you well easily see it is not aligned, and you can still shift it into place, which it will with a satisfying “click” sound.

I have tried to capture the nice polished logo.

Also pictured are angles where you can see the cross section and the edge of the razor. Fit with the stand aside, it would have been nice if the cross section were moved to the thin part of the razor, after the heel. I guess all the more reason to get the stand, but for me, I have decided that I will disassemble anyway. This thing is a treasure for me, and I wouldn’t want to leave it around to get scratched up — more a comment on the texture of my bathroom tiles than an issue with the razor. I don’t leave any razors just lying around for the same reason: either in a stand or put away until the next shave.

A screw instead of a pin...nice!

Now that is a real test   
I got shivers up my spine just reading it, poor Tedalus. One thing is for sure I won't lend you any razors 

I don't stress test razors usually. Only ones that my name is attached to, albeit peripherally. I did a similar test on the Gillette slant razors when I was developing those.

A screw instead of a pin...nice!

The only plastic on the whole razor is in the inner washers between the frame and blade. They are probably delrin or something similar. Everything else on the razor is a premium material, so I imagine the washers are too. And yes, the tension can be adjusted for personal preference. Indeed, as the razor gets broken in, you will need to tighten the screw at some point.

Edit: for the sake of curiosity, I disassembled the Chicago screw to see how that was all put together. Imagine my surprise (not really) when I noticed that the backside of the inside of the Chicago screw has a square cut relief that nests into a square cutout on the frame. No need to worry if the back nut is just spinning, because it isn't.

Just another example of the care that was put into this design.

I'm sure it would, but at this point, it's still a single guy who paid to have 333 razors made out of his own pocket. He couldn't afford the stands too.

That being said, you are in for a treat. The razor is a work of art. Once you use it, you'll understand why the world needs a shavette like this. The bar on what we can expect a shavette to be has been set much higher by Tedalus.

I'm hoping to see a few video reviews while mine is in transit.

Bill is reviewing his today. Video might be uploaded as early as this evening.

Edit: here ya go.

My Essence arrived today quite early. Usually Monday's mail doesn't get delivered until very late afternoon, but I guess the mail delivery person wanted to make sure I got the razor before tonight's shave.



A brief inspection of the razor showed that it was definitely not only a work of art, but very precision made. At first I had trouble loading a Feather AC blade because I am left handed. For those familiar with loading this razor, it is preferred to be right handed. The magnets are very strong and the blade and side piece will never move during the shave, or most other times (even when trying to take it apart).

I thought twice about having a first shave tonight after coming in from working outside in 100 degree weather, but I lathered a good menthol soap and went for it.

The first thing I noticed was that despite the long monkey tail, the razor was well balanced and easy to find a natural grip. When I started my passes, I found that the Essence was closer to a regular straight razor than my favorite Feather DX. The thinness of the blade made it extremely easy to get around my face, although I did have some trouble under my nose with the blade being slightly thicker than the DX. I went WTG first then ATG and found out that I did not have to do my usual XTG pass because only minor touch up was needed. That was pretty good for my first shave and definitely looking forward to more shaves to get to know the Essence a little better.

Good show and tell, and visual comparison of an Essence to a DX

^
That is one of the best reviews I have ever seen, with very helpful visual comparisons versus straight razors and other shavettes, as well as other practical comments. I loved the Essence before, but after viewing this video I have a much better appreciation for it and for some of the design choices, such as the narrow spine and grippy tang. The review also addresses why the cross section can't be moved to a point past the edge given the long tail.

Seeing the comparative sizes of the spines, I can say now that I no longer have any interest in a Feather DX. Bill just saved me some money!

Be aware that what you saw was not a review, but just a visual comparison between razors. Keep in mind that the Feather DX design goes back a long way when Feather first started working with disposable blade straight razors for barber's use. Early pre-DX versions had a release slide on the top of the blade and the razor was slimmer. The current spring loaded pinch design came about more than 20 years ago and the purpose was for quick load/reload. This also required a thicker top portion of the blade. The blade sides itself was always a semi hollow ground shape which mimicked a straight razor better than many other shavettes. To compare it with the Essence and to say that the Essence is vastly superior because of it's looks and design and all those other things is like saying that Tesla Model X is way superior to a WWII Jeep. Two different time periods, two different technologies, two different purposes. The primary thing that really matters with razors is how does it shave. The DX has been my favorite shavette for nearly 10 years now. The Essence, after one shave is at least equal to the DX. More to come as I get to know the Essence as well as I know the DX. To say that one no longer have interest in a DX is really limiting your base of knowledge and experience.

Be aware that what you saw was not a review, but just a visual comparison between razors. Keep in mind that the Feather DX design goes back a long way when Feather first started working with disposable blade straight razors for barber's use. Early pre-DX versions had a release slide on the top of the blade and the razor was slimmer. The current spring loaded pinch design came about more than 20 years ago and the purpose was for quick load/reload. This also required a thicker top portion of the blade. The blade sides itself was always a semi hollow ground shape which mimicked a straight razor better than many other shavettes. To compare it with the Essence and to say that the Essence is vastly superior because of it's looks and design and all those other things is like saying that Tesla Model X is way superior to a WWII Jeep. Two different time periods, two different technologies, two different purposes. The primary thing that really matters with razors is how does it shave. The DX has been my favorite shavette for nearly 10 years now. The Essence, after one shave is at least equal to the DX. More to come as I get to know the Essence as well as I know the DX. To say that one no longer have interest in a DX is really limiting your base of knowledge and experience.

I should make it clear up front that I have never seen an Essence in person, so my remarks are based on surmises that make sense to me.  In that respect, my surmises are like those of other customers and potential customers who have not yet shaved with an Essence.  OTOH - and I do not mean to be contentious Les - but to say that the Essence is to the DX as a Tesla is to a vintage jeep seems both reasonable and apropos to me.  I think many other shavers will be thinking along those lines too, since we seem to spend considerable time chasing after better mousetraps of one sort or another.  The proposition that the thinner head will enable a shallower shaving angle and therefore a better shave makes sense to me.  It is exactly what many shavers - even those who have never picked up a straight - have already experienced with some of their SE razors.  Will it make the Essence "vastly superior"?  I agree with you that I would want to do more than look at the spine to know the answer.  

But no matter what, I can't imagine that people will lose interest in their DXs.  The Essence is too expensive for that.  So far as I know, the only DXs with anything significant to worry about are the Feather and Kai razors, and their problems from the Essence will be very small compared to the challenges they already face from cheap knock-offs. 

One other thing:  Congratulations on your new Essence!  You clearly are reserving judgement in order to judge fairly, and I, for one, will be very interested to hear your views.