(09-26-2016, 03:55 AM)Marko Wrote: (09-26-2016, 12:30 AM)Barrister_N_Mann Wrote: (09-25-2016, 11:48 PM)Marko Wrote: I was hoping you'd say otherwise. Right now I am aware of only 3 Bay Rum aftershaves that have any kind of real conditioning effect and that would be your Kyovu (suspended), Tallow & Steel's Grog and Krampert's Acadian Spice Bay Rum aftershave. Apart from those you have to look to balms to give you that feel in bay rum. I do like my other bay rums but a straight up alcohol based aftershave can be a little drying particularly in the winter.
I'm going to focus on the "but not impossible" in your post and remain hopeful that Barrister's Reserve Bay Rum will one day become a reality.
Apologies, my friend. If you can find me a truly excellent discontinued bay rum splash (which, admittedly, would be different from ours since our fragrance is not IFRA compliant), I'd be happy to consider it for preservation.
What does it mean to be/not be IFRA compliant? What turns on that designation? I know what IFRA is but thats about it.
I realize that bay rum as a fragrance does not get a lot of love despite the obvious popularity of the scent as evidenced by the market and the fact that virtually every soap / aftershave maker has a bay rum in its lineup. I don't know if bay rum just doesn't appeal to one's artistic sensibilities the way recreating some old Russian fragrance might or what it is but I do know that my 87 year old father considers bay rum to be the fragrance preferred by labourers, longshoreman and general wearers of dungarees. I'd rather hang around with those fellows than most of the boardroom fancy perfume types I've had the misfortune of knowing over the years.
The IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) promulgates regulations regarding the usage levels of various materials in perfumes. Certain (many) ingredients can only be used up to a certain percentage of the final product. Our Bay Rum is not compliant with said regulations because of its incorporation of raw orange oil, which is a restricted substance thanks to the fact that it contains the compound citral. Adapting the formula would be also be somewhat difficult because it contains mostly natural ingredients, which are, in analytical perfumery terms, "noisy." They contain many compounds that do not contribute to the fragrance whatsoever and there can be overlap of component compounds between ingredients. This can make it difficult to determine what proportions are needed of various component compounds in order to re-create the fragrance properly while still complying with IFRA regulations. It may be possible to bring the fragrance as-is into compliance; I'll check with the lab.
I get the impression that you think that I don't want to do it because I have some kind of conceit regarding the origins and uses of bay rums in general. That is in no way the case; what I'm trying to do is safeguard the fragrances used in Reserve such that they can be sold globally. In order to do so, they must comply with IFRA regulation. Further, the aim of the project is to preserve fragrances no longer made, be they simple or complex, high-perfume or drugstore aftershave. It's not that I don't want to have a bay rum in the line; it's that I want to remain true to the archival aim of the project, and so would vastly prefer to save a bay rum that otherwise faces annihilation at the hands of some perfume house's overzealous accounting department. If you can find me such a bay rum (I seem to recall that Burt's Bees produced one that was exceedingly highly regarded), then I would be delighted to enshrine it beneath the umbrella of Barrister's Reserve.
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