Avoid Brush Damage

Here is info I just learned on how not to damage a nice shaving brush.

I started noticing short broken bristles embedded in the soap when using my beloved Vie-Long 12750.

A little research led me to the cause. I was pressing too hard while lathering. Since reducing pressure, there are no more broken bristles.

Here is both a link to an article as well as a paragraph from the article that gets to the heart of the matter:


"The biggest mistake that many men make is using excessive pressure when creating lather. It is important that you avoid applying excessive pressure that crushes the inner core of the shaving brush. Pressing the brush down and lathering with hard circular motions will cause the bristles to twist, especially in the center core of the knot, and run a high risk of breaking off. Several manufacturers and many shaving retailers advise their customers to always use the brush in a back and forth paint-brush motion and not in circular motions when lathering. This recommendation is logical and it guarantees the least amount of wear from daily use on the brush; however, many experienced wet shavers, including myself, prefer the scrubbing feel of the brush against the beard during shaving. The exfoliation can still be achieved when you push the bristles down most of the way, but not all the way."

http://www.shaving101.com/index.php/educ...tment.html

Good advice.

I used boar brushes for years before I ever tried a DE razor. Before the internet. The drug stores didn't sell badger brushes and I doubt that I would have bought one when I was using cartridges.

When I got a DE razor I picked up a badger brush.
I beat it around like a boar brush on hard soaps. I didn't really know any better. It didn't really loose any hairs in the middle but that brush has a ring around the bottom of the knot where the bristles broke off.

The only thing I do different from when I first started with badger brushes is to not mash them down.

I used to treat my brush like it was a spoon and the soap was ice cream right out of the deep freeze. I'd try to get the soap onto the brush with brute force.

I know a lot of folks like to soak their soap with a little water before lathering. It is probably a good idea for new wet shavers.

I just take my time now. I put a little water on my hard soaps while my brush is soaking. No more than the soap will absorb or the brush will pick up.

Mashing and smashing and grinding is bad for nice brushes.

This is my old badger brush;

Yeah, the boar brushes don't cost as much. My Vie-Long horse hair was $40, which still isn't that much.

Some of the nice badger brushes are real money, like the one in the article.

Here is info I just learned on how not to damage a nice shaving brush.

I started noticing short broken bristles embedded in the soap when using my beloved Vie-Long 12750.

A little research led me to the cause.  I was pressing too hard while lathering.  Since reducing pressure, there are no more broken bristles.

Here is both a link to an article as well as a paragraph from the article that gets to the heart of the matter:


"The biggest mistake that many men make is using excessive pressure when creating lather.  It is important that you avoid applying excessive pressure that crushes the inner core of the shaving brush. Pressing the brush down and lathering with hard circular motions will cause the bristles to twist, especially in the center core of the knot, and run a high risk of breaking off.  Several manufacturers and many shaving retailers advise their customers to always use the brush in a back and forth paint-brush motion and not in circular motions when lathering. This recommendation is logical and it guarantees the least amount of wear from daily use on the brush; however, many experienced wet shavers, including myself, prefer the scrubbing feel of the brush against the beard during shaving. The exfoliation can still be achieved when you push the bristles down most of the way, but not all the way."

http://www.shaving101.com/index.php/educ...tment.html

A big +1! I've seen--and replaced knots in--far too many excellent brushes with "donut-holed" knots. Now saying that, I see no problem in loading the brush in a circular motion as long as the knot isn't compressed more than about 20-25%.

Thanks for sharing Brad. Are there any other things you can share?

I have a couple of questions.

1. An email with tips on brush care said to plunger the brush in a glass or shaving mug of water until the water is clear. What is your take?

2. There are places that say to let a brush dry hanging from a stand and others that say to place it on the base with the brush going up. What is your take?

Yeah, I wanted to poo poo some of this advice. While I think everyone sees a broken bristle in their soap from time to time, I havent seen nary any since I soaked, or wet my brush first. Now I know that there is an ageless internet battle that still rages about drying with bristles up or down, and all that jazz and I AM NOT a brush snob, but the single most important thing I do with my brush is soak it, or get it wet and let it set for a few minutes before I shave. (on all natural hair brushes) This softens the bristles and prevents their untimely breakage. Other than that, I will press as hard as the exterior of the bowl/tub will let me go.

Frankenstien handle keeps breaking, but the tulip knot is a beast, and never leaves remnants of itself behind.

Yeah, I wanted to poo poo some of this advice. While I think everyone sees a broken bristle in their soap from time to time, I havent seen nary any since I soaked, or wet my brush first. Now I know that there is an ageless internet battle that still rages about drying with bristles up or down, and all that jazz and I AM NOT a brush snob, but the single most important thing I do with my brush is soak it, or get it wet and let it set for a few minutes before I shave. (on all natural hair brushes) This softens the bristles and prevents their untimely breakage. Other than that, I will press as hard as the exterior of the bowl/tub will let me go.

Frankenstien handle keeps breaking, but the tulip knot is a beast, and never leaves remnants of itself behind.

+1

Yeah, the boar brushes don't cost as much.  My Vie-Long horse hair was $40, which still isn't that much.  

Some of the nice badger brushes are real money, like the one in the article.

Try a Silvertip from Whipped Dog for $32 shipped, or $37 if drilled deeper. It really is an awesome brush.

Well, no one is responding on the brush up or down for drying, so I'll share the explanation that makes the most sense to me.

Letting the brush dry by sitting it on the base with the bristles up makes most sense to me.

Why,? The explanation I read advised to gently squeeze the water out, then shake the brush to get more water out. The reasoning they gave is that after this, the water droplets are not big enough to be impacted by gravity and drying with the bristles up makes it easier for them to dry.

I don't worry about this with my synthetic brushes. The only natural bristle I use is horse hair. I use a rotation though they are dry by the next day.

I think the notion that brushes must be hung upside down to dry properly is a tool to sell brush stands as an add-on product. In my experience, if the water is gently squeezed out of the brush and the brush then shaken to get a little more water out, bristles up or down makes zero difference. The brushes dry just fine either way and remain in good condition.