Thater instructions - not to soak badger

I agree with Thater , there is no need to soak and the reasoning is completely logical. I’ve utilized both methods and I actually prefer wetting the brush and “letting the tips of the brush do all the work” the tips feel silkier on the face when lathering with a lighter hand. There is no need to forcefully lather with pressure or speed in my opinion.

I don’t think those things are mutually exclusive though are they? Meaning you could soak or not soak a brush and lather lightly, or not lather lightly. 
Do you mean that you get better results lathering lightly when you just wet the brush, compared to when you soak it?

You are right of course, and let's be 100% honest here with the exception of doing something that outright damages your brush, do what makes you feel good. Or really do what makes you feel good its your brush and your shave.  If you mess something up you just learn a lesson is all.  

Every time I have gotten a barbershop shave my barber pulls a totally submerged Simpson brush out of a bowl of warm water but he replaces the brush every few months.

My comment above had two different statements within and was worded poorly. I agree soaking isn’t necessary and could leave calcium and other deposits deep within the knot , I also lather lightly with just the top third of the knot contacting soap and my face to avoid the lather from getting deep within the knot. I’m doing this I found I appreciated the face feel of the brush more with this technique.

The only time I have ever soaked a badger brush is to remove soap deposits.
By swirling it in some vinegar water for maybe 30 min.
Apart from that, I just used to soak the knot, shake off the excess and go.

I once had a Thater that had a knot fall out and I suspect it was weakened by
constant and persistent soaking. That's why I stopped doing it.

I suspect the Thater instructions were written at the insistence of their corporate lawyers. If your Thater brush falls apart due to excessive soaking and excessive swirling and pressure, then they can say "Not my problem, I told you not to soak it?"

I do soak my badger brushes while I am in the shower. However, I only swirl the brush in my tub of soap for 10 seconds with light pressure. I swirl the loaded brush in my shaving bowl for 30 seconds with light pressure. I apply the lather to my face with painting strokes using light pressure. Thus, I do not have an issue with soaking the brushes.

If you follow the advice to "load it like you hate it" and then build your lather by scrubbing your face, then soaking might be a bad idea.

Personally, since Thater says you should not soak their brushes, I question the construction quality of their brushes and would avoid purchasing one.

Milton at Turn N Shave includes similar instructions with the brushes he sends.

Milton at Turn N Shave includes similar instructions with the brushes he sends.

With the little experience I have, I see a lot of logic in these recommendations, the only item I disagree is drying the brush upside down. If brush is nicely washed - it should dry standing, evaporation goes up,
My brushes dry super fast this way and there is no lime residue on handle.

Milton at Turn N Shave includes similar instructions with the brushes he sends.

With the little experience I have, I see a lot of logic in these recommendations, the only item I disagree is drying the brush upside down. If brush is nicely washed - it should dry standing, evaporation goes up,
My brushes dry super fast this way and there is no lime residue on handle.

Yeah I agree, I don't think dying upside down is needed either.

I don't agree with it drying upside down either personally. I never liked hanging them upside down on the stand as they sometimes fall off, and while a short fall, I'd rather not risk that, not to mention where I put them up they could risk a potentially worse fall. I remember reading arguments for and against when I started back in 2009, and was convinced it was just fine standing them up. Not to mention Thater is in a select minority saying to dry them upside down in a stand. Some make mention of a stand being optional, but it is rare. Most don't even bother to mention stands. The only time you'd be forced to dry is when the bottom isn't flat.

I find the website and what they say intriguing, particularly the picture of the knot. I would think the inside of the knot would have glue in there as well, but it's like the inner core there is no epoxy to have all those crystals formed. It goes against what I've seen from Simpson making their brushes showing a worker taking the formed knot and stabbing the formed knot over a slightly recessed hole with epoxy and tiny spikes to penetrate into the knot. I don't know all the technical aspects by any means. Then later they show another part where it's like they have caps on the knot to pour epoxy into it. I've seen Shavemac's too without the epoxy bottom and strings around it and also a clear epoxy of some sort. Maybe it is something specific to Thater's construction technique that makes it more prone to this.

I understand the part they are talking about loading up the brush. I think its excessive. I want the lather on my face not in the bottom of my brush so I try to be gentle with just lathering with the tips like mentioned. Of course there's another way of getting around lathering difficulty. Don't set the hair so low, and ease up on the density. Plisson is unique in that regard. I'd be surprised if anyone ever got a Plisson that was hard to lather with. Likely much less possibility for lather to go down into the knot.

I don't agree with it drying upside down either personally. I never liked hanging them upside down on the stand as they sometimes fall off, and while a short fall, I'd rather not risk that, not to mention where I put them up they could risk a potentially worse fall. I remember reading arguments for and against when I started back in 2009, and was convinced it was just fine standing them up. Not to mention Thater is in a select minority saying to dry them upside down in a stand. Some make mention of a stand being optional, but it is rare. Most don't even bother to mention stands. The only time you'd be forced to dry is when the bottom isn't flat.

I find the website and what they say intriguing, particularly the picture of the knot. I would think the inside of the knot would have glue in there as well, but it's like the inner core there is no epoxy to have all those crystals formed. It goes against what I've seen from Simpson making their brushes showing a worker taking the formed knot and stabbing the formed knot over a slightly recessed hole with epoxy and tiny spikes to penetrate into the knot. I don't know all the technical aspects by any means. Then later they show another part where it's like they have caps on the knot to pour epoxy into it. I've seen Shavemac's too without the epoxy bottom and strings around it and also a clear epoxy of some sort. Maybe it is something specific to Thater's construction technique that makes it more prone to this.

I understand the part they are talking about loading up the brush. I think its excessive. I want the lather on my face not in the bottom of my brush so I try to be gentle with just lathering with the tips like mentioned. Of course there's another way of getting around lathering difficulty. Don't set the hair so low, and ease up on the density. Plisson is unique in that regard. I'd be surprised if anyone ever got a Plisson that was hard to lather with. Likely much less possibility for lather to go down into the knot.

Thank you Joe, I learn a lot from you.
It would be nice if Thater would release a video of how they make their brushes, it would help understand.
I will look into Plisson, sounds very interesting,

I still have much to learn myself, but do try to impart what I know. I just wanted to share I'm intrigued by it as there is so much unknown. I got some synthetic knots I'm not a fan of, and while I have been saving them for a possible brush in the future, I'm thinking I would be better served trying to get them cut to see the construction instead. Thinking a band saw might be best. Not sure if anyone I know has one.