"Surfing saved my life."

Different strokes for different folks, as they say...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pi55yl0-3lk

And he's probably on his way to this.
https://phys.org/news/2018-12-surfer-ear...ivers.html

Does not look fun.

My noggin between 2 icebergs wouldn't mix well. I'll pass even if I did surf; I don't. On the plus side, no sharks.

I've got one up on that guy, I do the same thing, without the wetsuit.

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dude is hard core