SOTD 16-22 December 2018

KARVE D / FEATHER / SIMPSON THE DUKE 3 / NUAVIA / SAILOR JERRY

Saturday, December 22nd
PAA Green Ray Synthetic Brush
Dovo Gentleman 5/8
Stirling Soap Co. Mentholated Pre-Shave Soap
Stirling Soap Co. Black Pepper Lime Shave Soap & AS
Hendrix Classics & Co. Unscented AS Balm

Australian Private Reserve | Fenchurch
Phoenix Shaving | The Starcraft | Roswell Hybrid Synth
The New Improved Schick Injector Razor | Personna 74

This past year, I've been afforded the opportunity to not only try old stand-by artisans' upgraded soap formulas, but also some outstanding new-to-me artisans. Much like West Coast Shaving introduced me to Grooming Dept, Maggard Razors made it easy to procure an otherwise difficult to obtain Australian Private Reserve. Jason Rudman's recent review of Fenchurch motivated me to place an order.

I played around with this lather the day preceding the actual shave to determine how it responds to my hard water.  I found loading fairly dry with hydration on the back end works best for me.  This method proved the most effective way to get a consistent no-brainer lather.  In this respect the Australian Private Reserve "F2" beef tallow base loads and reconstitutes very similarly to that of Declaration Grooming's Bison Tallow base.  APR F2 has a relatively wide water tolerance, but it performs best when hydrated like average tallow bases as opposed to taking it to the drowning stage necessary for Grooming Dept Mallard, Barrister's Reserve, or Phoenix and Beau.  The resulting lather is high-end density but low profile. It will not blow up into a voluminous or fluffy Hollywood lather.  When optimized, it paints on like glistening cream and floats the blade as if it were oil.  Residual slickness is such that a wet blade can safely revisit areas devoid of visible lather, but it rinses clean.  Post-shave is also high-end, leaving soft supple well-hydrated skin.

The fragrance of Fenchurch is unlike anything I've ever experienced, and the documented notes are dizzying.  On paper, this should be too sweet to be in my wheelhouse, but the masterful perfumery displayed in Fenchurch makes this an addictive accord for me.  I won't presume to claim I can identify the individual notes as it's just far too complex. That is not to say it's convoluted, however.  The soap is lovely warm sweet tobacco, vanilla and powder, but the splash medium unveils the realized fragrance.  Fenchurch opens with what I perceive as liquored overripe black cherries and soft tobacco flower.  This phase alone is amazing and I lamented its departure.  The middle offers up hints of leather without actually being leathery, and this is accompanied by fresh earthy uncured tobacco playing off the preexisting tobacco flower. Somewhere late in this stage the fragrance becomes thicker by way of conservative musks sustaining the leather and powder. The dry down actually continues to echo the former notes but with a warmth and foundation of resinous florals and beautiful vanilla.  I found myself compulsively revisiting the bottle long after the splash lifted.  With the help of a fellow wet shaver, I now have a bottle of the Eau de Parfum en route.  This is a must-have fragrance for me.

I apparently stumbled upon Australian Private Reserve at its pinnacle with the "F2" base.  Never having experienced it's prior bases, I can't speak to how it has upgraded.  As it is, there's very little room for improvement, but the high-level perfumery exhibited by Fenchurch is the reason to import this product.

Very nice write-up.       Thanks!

Pre-Shave: nsavage pre-shave, cold water
Razor: GameChanger 0.84
Blade: Voskhod (1)
Brush: Paladin Chief Strawberry Amber
Lather: Mike's Orange, Cedarwood, & Black Pepper
Post-Shave: Alum, Thayers Original Alcohol Free Witch Hazel, South Australian Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Great photo...

Thank you very much for your kind words

Rockwell 6
Gillette Rubie 4*

Stirling Barbershop
Razorock Plissoft
Wimmie Bowl

Man Balm
Van Gils aftershave


Nice relaxed sunday morning shave.  Three passes gave a smoother than smooth finish.

Man balm for the skin maintenance, and Van Gils for the 'happy end'!


Ready for a cappuccino with .... appelflap!


Have a nice day everyone.

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SE2/Kai Mild

23.12.18

Pre: Warm water rinse
Soap: Abbate Y La Mantia Garden
Brush: Lowborn Supply Patriot
Razor: Raw RS10
Blade: PermaSharp
Post: Cold water rinse
AS: Proraso Green

Sunday.
Prep: Hot towel
Pre shave: Prep
Razor: ‘The Rock’ (Rockwell 6S – #3)
Blade: Gillette Bleue Extra
Brush: 'Mama Chub' (Chubby 2 Two Band)
Soap: Barrister & Mann 'Eventide'
Post: Cold water rinse / Witch Hazel / Wholly Kaw: King of Oud Aftershave Toner
Fragrance: Xerjoff Alexandria

I pulled out all the stops with this one, as this could be classed as my Xmas shave (my next shave will be Boxing Day).. yeah, fantastic!!