Question for artisans

In almost all tallow-containing soaps, the saponified tallow is rarely the first listed item listed in the ingredients, meaning it is not the most abundant component.  Usually the most abundant component is sodium- or potassium-stearate.  Can any of you artisans/experts provide a reason for this?  I am thinking that if a soap will market itself as a tallow-based soap, why isn't it the number one ingredient [in concentration] in the finished soap?

Potassium/Sodium stearate is the saponified form of stearic acid. Stearic acid is required in large quantities to yield a lather with stability and longevity. It's essentially the single ingredient (fatty acid) that separates shave soap from bath soap.

You should be wary of any shave soap that does not have a high quantity of stearic acid.

Interesting, thank you for explaining the role of stearate. However, are you suggesting that listing tallow ahead of stearate would be a cause of concern?  This is an interesting point that you raise.

Interesting, thank you for explaining the role of stearate. However, are you suggesting that listing tallow ahead of stearate would be a cause of concern?  This is an interesting point that you raise.

Bufflehead explained the main point well, but to answer your follow-up question, I believe that in MOST tallow-based soaps the proportions of tallow and stearic acid are generally in the same neighborhood (not all obviously). So, even if tallow is listed first, the stearic acid percentage probably isn't far behind, and tallow contains lots of stearic acid, so it's really just up to the specific soap maker at that point in terms of their specific fatty acid profile. Definitely no cause for concern is tallow is listed first.

Interesting, thank you for explaining the role of stearate. However, are you suggesting that listing tallow ahead of stearate would be a cause of concern?  This is an interesting point that you raise.

Bufflehead explained the main point well, but to answer your follow-up question, I believe that in MOST tallow-based soaps the proportions of tallow and stearic acid are generally in the same neighborhood (not all obviously). So, even if tallow is listed first, the stearic acid percentage probably isn't far behind, and tallow contains lots of stearic acid, so it's really just up to the specific soap maker at that point in terms of their specific fatty acid profile. Definitely no cause for concern is tallow is listed first.

I agree.

To clarify even further, you want to see it towards the top, but it doesn't have to be the first ingredient. And if that's not the case, I'm suggesting it's a reason to pause and do more research. It's completely possible to make a good shaving soap without stearic acid in it at all. It's just not common.

Thank you gentlemen, I really appreciate your clarification.

Stearic acid is a major component of many good shave soaps, but I think there are some soaps that do a phenomenal job with lesser levels of it. Specifically Mystic Waters and Shannon's soaps, which have relatively small amounts of the stuff. Additionally, shave soaps that use palm oil tend to not need nearly as much of it as well. I suspect this is due to the fatty acid profile of palm oil.

I would argue that if you're watching out for good shave soaps, the first ingredient should always lead with "potassium" which refers to the lye solution used. Shave soaps use KOH mostly, and some include a lesser portion of NaOH. NaOH provides a fluffy, airy lather by comparison, so it isn't very desirable for good shaving.

Interesting, thank you for explaining the role of stearate. However, are you suggesting that listing tallow ahead of stearate would be a cause of concern?  This is an interesting point that you raise.

Bufflehead explained the main point well, but to answer your follow-up question, I believe that in MOST tallow-based soaps the proportions of tallow and stearic acid are generally in the same neighborhood (not all obviously). So, even if tallow is listed first, the stearic acid percentage probably isn't far behind, and tallow contains lots of stearic acid, so it's really just up to the specific soap maker at that point in terms of their specific fatty acid profile. Definitely no cause for concern is tallow is listed first.

Great point. I tried to explain this recently in another thread here, that stearic fatty acid is rather high in some oils and butters such as shea and mango, and tallow has a pretty good level too.

Stearic acid is a major component of many good shave soaps, but I think there are some soaps that do a phenomenal job with lesser levels of it.  Specifically Mystic Waters and Shannon's soaps, which have relatively small amounts of the stuff.  Additionally, shave soaps that use palm oil tend to not need nearly as much of it as well.  I suspect this is due to the fatty acid profile of palm oil.

I would argue that if you're watching out for good shave soaps, the first ingredient should always lead with "potassium" which refers to the lye solution used.  Shave soaps use KOH mostly, and some include a lesser portion of NaOH.  NaOH provides a fluffy, airy lather by comparison, so it isn't very desirable for good shaving.

Palm has very little stearic fatty acid actually, around 4.3%. It is high in palmitic (obviously) and oleic.

Stearic acid is a major component of many good shave soaps, but I think there are some soaps that do a phenomenal job with lesser levels of it.  Specifically Mystic Waters and Shannon's soaps, which have relatively small amounts of the stuff.  Additionally, shave soaps that use palm oil tend to not need nearly as much of it as well.  I suspect this is due to the fatty acid profile of palm oil.

I would argue that if you're watching out for good shave soaps, the first ingredient should always lead with "potassium" which refers to the lye solution used.  Shave soaps use KOH mostly, and some include a lesser portion of NaOH.  NaOH provides a fluffy, airy lather by comparison, so it isn't very desirable for good shaving.

Also keep in mind that soap labeling doesn't follow any strict guidelines like other cosmetics do, so ingredients won't always necessarily be listed in the 'Potassium fattyacid-ate' nomenclature, but definitely you should see potassium hydroxide in some way shape or form on the label, whether it's the raw ingredient-style listing (i.e. potassium hydroxide), or the saponified product listing (i.e. potassium tallowate/stearate/etc).