Haircut & Shave N075 SS Black T Passaround – An Old Favourite Gets an Update

The N075 in 303 Stainless Steel is the razor that launched Haircut & Shave into the hardware market in 2018.  It features unique design elements combined with excruciating attention to detail in a mild feeling yet moderately efficient razor at a mid-market price.  While the owner has ventured into some beautifully executed razors in exotic metals that have placed him firmly at the leading edge of artisan producers, he has continued to produce evolutions of his entry-level razor.  The primary focus to date has been experimenting with finishing treatments reducing friction and enhancing the visual impact ranging from HardCoat to TiN (Titanium Nitrate as is used in high-end motorsport suspensions from MotoGP to F1 to reduce stiction) and now, Black T.
 
Black T is a process developed by WE Birdsong to protect firearms from corrosion and minimize maintenance.  Most significantly to shavers, the treatment is a polymer coating applied in a very thin layer, resulting in a dry film lubrication that decreases friction.  From experience, friction - particularly stiction - has become an obsession as my skin is incredibly damaged and sensitive; anything that can minimize the drag of a razor across the skin makes a huge difference to eliminating post shave irritation.  Hitherto have strongly preferred the most thoroughly polished DE razors available (one of the reasons for my raving regarding Wolfman High Polish finishes and H&S P076 razors) or straight edge shaving to mitigate against the terrible irritation resulting from drag on my admittedly outlier skin at considerable expense.  One could imply that if products work for the most sensitive skin types, they will most assuredly work for those with normal skin sensitivities so this does have merit beyond us outliers perhaps justifying the added expense where that an issue.  Let’s also face the facts: matte black imparts an impression of technical superiourity real or imagined; the looks of this razor are eye porn, pure and simple.
 
H&S uses a practical naming convention designating the blade exposure and gap: in this case, N075 references the razor’s Neutral blade exposure and 075 represents the 0,75mm blade gap between the baseplate and top cap.  The razor was designed to be gentle on the face as possible by keeping the blade within the boundaries of the head assembly while leaving a sufficient gap to permit the blade to get access to hairs.
 
As with all H&S products, the razor is delivered in a blow molded plastic case lending the impression of a precision instrument that are similarly packaged.  A beautifully logoed microfiber cloth covers the razor, as is de rigeur these days for high-end razors.  While it is a small thing having no impact on the shaving properties, it does send a message about the owner’s view of his product and perspective on quality.  The fit and finish is outstanding with perfectly machined surfaces and the company’s signature design flair most obviously displayed in the handle shape.  The handle shape is unique; frankly was neutral on the shape being a Bauhaus advocate but in use, the shape encourages proper hand placement to facilitate getting the best shave and lends visual variety to those with multiple razors in their rotation.  I have come to like the shape with usage thinking it both marketing genius and sound ergonomic design.  For those wishing alternative handle lengths, Aji is making those available across the H&S family over time.  The handle knurling is more than adequate without being tactilely intrusive.  Again, the looks just capture the soul of motorsports, outdoor and tech enthusiasts with the minimalist appeal that is matte black.
 
H&S has provided the soap and aftershave for the passaround.  The crème is reminiscent of a classical Brit soap in scent and usage.  The scent is described as petit grain, cardamom, lemon, orange and fir but my take it a masculine flowery in a good way – classically Brit.  The performance is good, certainly more than adequate for those with average skin types.  It easily produces lather with different water types and rinses clean without residue with a respectable post shave effect.  Passaround participants PLEASE exercise the courtesy to scoop crème for bowl or face lathering as this is being shared and there is a flu outbreak – exercise discretion in considering your fellow shavers.
 
In total, I used the H&S N075 for 4 3-pass shaves: first pass With the Grain: second pass Against the Grain: and third pass Across the Grain.  Having learned H&S responds well to the Gillette Nacet, used them exclusively from the first shave with excellent results.
 
People having read previous passaround reviews of H&S razors know that I strongly recommend them based on both the manufacturing excellence as well as the shave characteristics.  In the case of this N075 SS Black T razor, while it is an outstanding razor, I – note I – prefer the mixed metal variant.  The weight distribution is decidedly head heavy compared to the mixed metal variant N075.  I was going to test shave the razor using a spare Al HardCoat baseplate but Aji asked that we stick with the razor as shipped: my suspicion is that the Black T treatment combined with Al HardCoat base would have yielded an extraordinary smooth shaver, even superior to the current mixed metal version.  That stated, there are many many shavers that prefer the SS baseplate to the Al; for those shavers the full SS version in Black T will undoubtedly be a notable improvement with its superior glide.  Irrespective of preferring the Al baseplate, the razor delivers an incredibly smooth yet efficient shave for those chasing unchallenging nick free results.      
 
In conclusion, this is an outstanding variant of the N075 family that has demonstrable benefits over the original uncoated releases.  H&S continues to develop, evolve and perfect their razors on both the top end and entry level focusing on reducing friction.  If seeking a mild razor, my perspective is the N075 family in all its guises is impossible to beat – God knows have been chasing this segment for nearly decade trying them all.  While $220 is not inexpensive, there can be no doubt that one gets every penny worth of value out of that spend with this razor and then some in the quality of production and finish.  As with all reviews of H&S to date, strongly recommend Aji create a stand keeping with the design theme and hope he continues experimenting with coatings, maybe DLC??

PM to be included in the passaround

My Franken-razor (H&S Co. Al hardcoat baseplate + N075 polished SS top cap + Stork SS handle) remains as one of my only two razors. This new one intrigues, but I'd only want to buy the head. If that ever becomes an option, I might give it a whirl. Thanks as always Dan for cluing us in to what Aji is up to.

My first shave with the pass-around NO75 Black T.  A month ago I purchased an NO75 with both the stainless and aluminum bases and have been using it frequently and love it.  So I know what to expect and am comfortable with the shaves it gives.  Smooth and effortless but close.  I like both bases, but perhaps the SS slightly more; to me, the weight is perfect and a like the touch of greater face feel of the razor.  With either base, the NO75 is probably as good as any (maybe the best?) of that highly desired form of a mild shaver that rocks when paired with a sharp blade. I've not tried every such razor but the NO75 certainly works for me.

As for appearance, the Black T is just plain cool. The machining and metal work is H&S quality, meaning as basically top-tier.  In black, it's just got character. 

To turn to the shave itself.  I paired it with a familiar soap, the Tallow & Steel Sicily.  The Black T was a somewhat surprising change -- as Dan pointed out, the coating is intended to make the razor glide greater.  And, it does.  In fact, the razor glides across the skin (at least my skin) so smoothly and so easily that the sensation of the razor metal itself effectively disappears.  From the first pass's first swipe (I did a classic three WTG, XTG, ATG), I actually stopped and looked at the razor.  The normal sense of a metal razor was almost nil.  Instead, I felt the blade itself but not the razor. I'm so used to using the bar and cap to aid in guiding my hand that it was slightly disconcerting.  By the end, I was more dialed into it but still not sure that I wouldn't want to just pick up my own SS NO75.  This took more concentration since the blade is all I'm feeling (but then I've never used a straight.....). One thing that is true is that there was no possible sense of irritation.  But then the cap or either base of my NO75 doesn't irritate.  By comparison, I have just finished three shaves with the PO75 in the 17-4 pass-around and there I felt too much of that cold, clinical steel. 

The shave was BBS smooth -- perhaps not the closest shave I will ever get, since the NO75 doesn't give you (what it does give is an effortless, smoot BBS). It was my third use of a Feather and I think the blade had reached the end of its life.  With me, Feathers don't last.  But they do give two great shaves and they go great for those two shaves in my NO75! In any event, while I felt a slight tug that was from the blade. In the end, one tiny, tiny weeper that disappeared by the end of the shave and zero irritation.

Finally, since I wanted to use a known quantity as a soap, I didn't use the supplied H&S cream or gel.  That will be the next review.

Second shave today with the Black.  Much the same as the first, although this time I paid a little more attention to riding the cap and I found the shave easier.  Basically, this shaver just makes shaving so easy.  It just glides across the face, this razor (and, as I said before, it certainly looks great).  Just two passes (XTG and ATG) were needed to get a BBS shave all over.  Second day with a BIC blade and I'm thinking BICs work really well in NO75s (at least for me).  The soap only arrived two days ago and I've used it twice in row because I love this particular scent.  Next shave with this razor will try the H&S Cream and H&S post-shave gel. So far, had I not already a NO75, I would certainly have wanted to buy this. As is, I'm just enjoying the pass-around razor.

Based on soap label, this was a heads you win, tails you win shave, eh?

Yup.  I won.

 

[font=Calibri, sans-serif]An all Haircut & Shave shave! Razor, brush, cream, and aftershave.[/font]

Third shave with the NO75 Black.  Much the same as the two previous.  I’m now ready to pass it along. In short, and perhaps to sound like a broken record:  the NO75 is a mild shaver that gives baby smooth, close shaves, and with the black finish it glides across your face.  I can recommend an NO75 to anyone.  Not only is the finishing superlative, but the rigidity of the design and how the blade is clamped so tightly really works by eliminating blade chatter.  [font=Helvetica]It’s simply easy shaving.[/font]
 
I already have an NO76 with the stainless and aluminum bases and I think that the stainless base remains my preference – I like the way the steel cap feels and gives me more of a guide.  The Black may “glide” better but, then, the stainless doesn’t exactly stick or catch.  One couldn’t go wrong either with any of these; some folks also like the mixed metal (that is, the stainless steel with the aluminum base).  Everyone is different.
 
Today, I also tried out the H&S shave cream and post-shave gel.  Also used my H&S 24mm synthetic brush, which I believe is a Yaqi tuxedo, so a perfectly fine synthetic brush. I happen to like the black and orange coloring and the feel of the handle.  
 
As for the shave cream, it was a solid, easily lathering cream.  A little lathers a lot.  I think I had enough lather for about six passes.  The slickness was fine and the shave as a whole worked well.  The scent is not my primary taste – somewhat grassy and floral (geraniums, perhaps, or lavender to me).  What came to my mind was a softer version of Castle Forbes 1445, which is quite a compliment.  Perhaps not as complex but similar.  Unfortunately, I’m going by memory since I have no more 1445 around, so I could be wrong. The gel did less for me since it is mentholated – not what I go for -- but it had a left a moist feel in its wake. I suspect Aji probably sells a good deal of this cream and gel to customers who he manages to entice to try them, since they are so much better for the grocery shelves products.
 
So a huge thank you to Aji for sharing his excellent wares and for Dan Law for arranging this (and the other H&S) passarounds.