#51
You have put a tremendous about of work into this thread and clearly done your homework.

I want to say ...

Thank you
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#52

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
(12-04-2016, 09:33 PM)grim Wrote: You have put a tremendous about of work into this thread and clearly done your homework.

I want to say ...

Thank you

You're welcome. I enjoy it.
John
#53

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
Galbanum

Galbanum is a gum resin, collected from several species of flowering Ferula plants, whose oil has a pungent, bitter, green, woody-resinous odor reminiscent of sliced green peppers and cut grass. It provides a "green" and somewhat earthy note to fragrance products. Galbanum frequently is mentioned as a top note, but its tenacity actually lingers in the heart and base. As it evolves on the skin, the initial acrid, peculiar scent is followed by a complex green, spicy tone, and then a woody-balsmic tone, after which it finally becomes more musky. It frequently is used in the creation of tobacco aromas. When employed as a base note, it usually is combined with musk, oakmoss, or pine. Traditionally it mainly has been used to give a natural green effect to floral accords, usually featuring hyacinth, gardenia, narcissus, iris, and violet, with which it pairs very well. Modern (post-1920s) "green" fragrances evoke the outdoors and nature much more than the sophisticated intimacy and animal density of more traditional chypres. Nevertheless, galbanum is also clearly present in many oriental blends, chypres, and fougeres as well. Galbanum resin also is prized for its fixative qualities; like other heavy molecules with low volatility, it anchors more ephemeral elements.

The Ferula plants from which galbanum is obtained originally grew in Mesopotamia and subsequently were exported to India, China, Israel, and Egypt. Today Iran and Turkey are the primary sources for galbanum. Galbanum also is produced in South Africa, Lebanon, southern Russia, and Afghanistan.

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The oil, the form most widely used in perfumery, is steam-distilled from the resinoid - a thick, crumbling, yellowish to greenish-brown paste - which is exuded from wounds cut in the trunks and roots of the plants.

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Initially the resin is earthy and peaty, but with dilution in alcohol the fruity-floral "bouquet" opens up, and one is reminded of crushed pine needles or pea pods with lemony overtones, fresh, vegetal, and sharp. The chemical constituents of galbanum are monoterpenes (a and ß pinene), sabinene, limonene, undecatriene and pyrazines. The pure oil, however, often is adulterated with pine oil, which may be why some batches of imports smell more of green, snapped pine needles than others. Perfume houses sometimes use additional steps beyond distillation to remove acrid sulfuric and terpenic notes when they are present.

The use of galbanum in perfumes is typified by Chanel No 19, Balmain Vent Vert, Guerlain Chamade, and Estée Lauder Aliage. It is also prominent in Robert Piguet Bandit, and it appears in Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Atelier Cologne Grand Néroli, and Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Modèle 2.

Galbanum also has been used as a medicinal ingredient, primarily as an anti-inflammatory agent, expectorant, and antiseptic, and as an antispasmodic for women during childbirth. In ancient Eypt it was burned in incense in religious ceremonies and was used in embalming processes.

Fragrances for men or both genders that feature galbanum include:

Penhaligon's Quercus
Creed Silver Mountain Water, Royal Oud, Cedre Blanc, Iris Tuberose
Czech & Speake Vétiver Vert
Hugo Boss Red
Ineke Hothouse Flower
L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier
Olfactive Studio Panorama, Still Life
Police Naked pour Homme
Versace Blue Jeans for Men
Hareer Anfasic Dokhoon
Pioneer Boadicea the Victorious
Lush Flower Market
Etienne Aigner Private Number
Pino Silvestre Green Generation
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab Dragon's Eye
Tom Ford Vert de Fleur, Vert Bohème, Ombre de Hyacinth
Chanel Egoiste Platinum
Wax Poetic Ember
Jeanne Arthes Cobra pour Homme
Emper Bandit, Presidente Sports
Serge Lutens Bas de Soie, Borneo 1834
Maison Martin Margiela (untitled)
Comme des Garcons
Cartier Must pour Homme
Miller Harris Patchouli
Testa Maura Carticasi
Anglia Perfumery Park Royal
Vilhelm Parfumerie Morning Chess
Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Vetiver
Jequiti Aire
Aramis Devin
Phaedon Coton Egyptien
Ava Luxe Figuer
Fueguia 1833 Gálbano
O Boticario Uomini
Gap Established 1969
Esprit de Versailles for Him
Officina delle Essenze Caldo Encens
Swiss Arabian Shadha
Zoologist Macaque
Monsillage Eau de Céleri
Novaya Zarya Driver
Acqua di Stresa Dianthus
Prada No 8 Opopanax, Infusion d'Homme
Ralph Lauren Safari
Guepard for Man
Dina Cosmetics Imperial Silver Black
DSH Perfumes Adoration (Milan), Viridian
Renato Balestra Via Sistina 67 Homme
D.S. & Durga Sir
Laura Biagiotti Roma per Uomo
Azzaro Aqua Verde
Art Deco Perfumes Aventure
Anatole Lebreton l'Eau de Merzhin
Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles
Frederic Malle French Lover
John
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