Fragrance Terms

Count me among the proponents of smoke. Thank you for another excellent post John. 

I too like smoke tones in aftershaves and colognes. Thanks for the note.

Cumin

Cumin (Cuminum cyminum) is an annual herbaceous plant in the large parsley family Apiaceae (or Umbellifereae), which also includes carrot, celery, parsnip, dill, fennel, and cilantro. The plant grows to 30-50 cm (12-20 in.) in height, with a slender spoked or branched stem with 2-3 sub-branches. This stem is gray or dark green in color. The feathery leaves are 5-10 cm (2-4 in.) long, and the flowers, small and colored pink or white, grow in clusters resembling umbrellas. An ovoid fruit (seed) is produced. The seeds are oblong in shape, ridged longitudinally, and yellow-brown to white in color. Cumin is durable and adaptable to both warm and cool climates, and it is easily grown around the world, although it thrives best in tropical or subtropical areas.


Cumin is sometimes confused with caraway (Carum carvi), another spice in the parsley family, and many European languages do not distinguish clearly between the two. Slavic languages refer to cumin as 'Roman caraway' or 'spice caraway.' However, despite the fact that the plants are close to each other botanically and the similar appearances of their seeds, their aromas and tastes are quite different.


The etymology of the name is unclear, although it has been proposed that it came from Arabic 'kammon' through French 'cumin' and Spanish 'comino' during the Arab rule in Spain in the 15th century. Others believe that it comes from the Latin term 'cuminum,' which in turn may have been derived from ancient Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic. The root name probably originated in a native Sumerian language in ancient Syria.

The cumin plant is thought to have originated in Central or Southwestern Asia or in the Eastern Mediterranean. Seeds of wild cumin were excavated in the settlement of Atlit-Yam (now submerged off the coast of Israel), which has been radiocarbon dated to 8900-8300 BC, and seeds excavated in Syria have been dated to 1500-2000 BC. Cumin seeds have been found in the tombs of New Kingdom Egyptian Pharaohs, and cumin is known to have been used there as a spice, as a preservative in mummification, and in rituals. It was commonly used as a spice by the Minoans in ancient Crete, and the Greeks and Romans used it at the dining table as a pepper seasoning. Cumin is mentioned in both the Old and New Testaments. In India, it has been used for millennia as an ingredient in numerous traditional recipes. In the Middle Ages, feudal lords sometimes paid their serfs with cumin, but the spice lost its popularity in Europe except in Spain. Cumin was introduced to the Americas by Spanish and Portuguese colonists and subsequently became popular there, eventually being 'rediscovered' and regaining favor in Europe.


India is the largest producer of cumin, accounting for about 75-85% of the total. Other countries producing significant amounts are Syria, Turkey, UAE, and Iran. Smaller crops come from Chile, Mexico, Ukraine, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Mediterranean areas. The Indian population uses around half of its own cumin seed production. Two main varieties are used commercially, the Indian and the Middle Eastern types. Indian cumin contains more cuminaldehyde and has a stronger aroma. Cumin also grows wild as an introduced species in many world areas because it was often exported as part of dry bird food.


Cumin is harvested by hand when the plant has started to wither and the seeds have changed from green to whitish or brown, in some areas via the traditional thrashing of the plant with a stick. In larger commercial enterprises, the whole plant is removed and dried in the sun, then threshed by machine to obtain the seeds. The seeds are dried further, until they retain only about 10% of their moisture content.


Cumin Essential Oil

The essential oil is extracted most often through steam distillation of the dried and ground seeds. It can also be produced by supercritical gaseous extraction, which is reputed to give the oil an aroma closer to that of the fresh spice. The essential oil is thin and clear to yellow color. The major aromatic components of cumin oil identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry are cuminaldehyde, cymene, and terpenoids, with cuminaldehyde the primary one providing fragrance. Others contributing scent include limonene and pinene. Cuminaldehyde, mentioned in the chemical literature since the 1880s, is also found in the oils of eucalyptus, myrrh, and cassia. It has been synthesized in labs since the 1950s, and today most commercial cuminaldehyde used in perfumes and for flavoring is synthetic.



Use in Perfumery

Cumin oil has a very pungent, bitter-sour note that can resemble the smell of sweat.  It has penetrating, green, herbal, warm spicy-musky, almost curry-like facts with hints of leather and aniseed. It is sometimes described as having nutty and resinous tones. Quite polarizing, it can highlight a fragrance, providing an intimate, almost animalic note if used sparingly (i.e. at 1% or less); if used at too high a concentration it is unpleasant for many users. One critic said that it produces an image of a 'hooker eating a burrito.' The scent is used mainly in men's perfume products to offset lighter notes, as well as in eaux fraîches. It is usually among a composition's heart notes, but it is quite persistent and can act as a fixative base note. Cumin still is not used often in perfumery, but it appears most frequently in Oriental, woody, and chypre fragrances.

Cumin is also used in fragrances as a substitute for animal sources that no longer are available and in place of other synthetics that do not create the same intimacy. It pairs well with floral and woody accords, it often is among the spices used in some Oriental fragrances. The scent of cumin oil blends especially well with angelica root, caraway, cinnamon, cilantro, coriander, nutmeg, clove, lavender, orange blossom, rosemary, and chamomile. Other scents used sometimes to 'round out' the cumin include dill, fennel, peppermint, wintergreen, and frankincense. Some experts have said that cumin adds an 'old money' tone to elegant and expensive compositions. Cumin is used carefully and delicately in Cartier Declaration and more boldly in Amouage Epic and the musky Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male.

The comparison of cumin's scent to that of body odor has been very common and is reinforced by use of the spice in many classic French perfumes that have had a somewhat 'dirty' undertone and by its description by expert Chandler Burr as being like female perspiration. Researchers at perfume houses, however, have disagreed with the comparison, citing a lack of shared aromachemistry compounds but also noting that cumin scent is secreted easily in perspiration, like other pungent spices such as fenugreek and aniseed.


Other Uses

In cookery, cumin is used mainly to flavor breads, cakes, cheeses, chili con carne, couscous, curries, meat dishes, and liqueurs. It is part of the Indian combination of sweet spices of Garam Marsala. In recent decades, its popularity has grown in the US through the influence of Latin American cuisine.

Cumin has purported medicinal uses in traditional medicine, e.g. to treat pain, inflammation, nausea and digestive problems, and skin conditions, but reports are mostly anecdotal, and there is no high-quality evidence for its therapeutic effectiveness or safety. Cumin has been used in veterinary medicine for various purposes.


Black Cumin

The term 'black cumin' is used to refer to the seeds of two plants that are unrelated to true cumin but are also used in cookery and occasionally in perfumery:

Nigella sativa, part of the buttercup or crowfoot family, stronger in flavor than cumin and frequently added to Indian spice mixes. It has a characteristic phenolic scent reminiscent of thyme and fennel, with berry nuances. It is noticeable in Christophe Laudamiel's perfume Community The Zoo.
Elwendia persica, sometimes called zira cumin, used in Middle Eastern cuisine and being somewhat similar to caraway but with a stronger smoky aroma



Masculine cumin fragrances:

Adolfo Dominguez Agua Fresca Citrus Cedro
Ajmal Taaj Al Raas
Alyssa Ashley Oud
Amouage Epic, Amouage Fate
Antonio Banderas The Golden Secret, AB The Secret Game
Aramis Tuscany Forte
Armaf Craze Bleu, Armaf Shades Wood
Asgharali Fursan Al Oruba
Athena Midas
Azzaro Summer Edition 2013
Baldessarini
Bramasole Alchemical Spice
Burberry Brit Rhythm Intense
Cartier Declaration Fraiche
Cerruti 1881
Chopard Black Incense Malaki
Christine Darvin Lexus Gold
Christian Dior Fahrenheit
David Thibaud-Bourahla l'Indigene
De Leon Grey Vetiver
Eden Classics Rapport Sport
Faberge Turbo
Franck Boclet Oud
Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire
Gant Indigo
Geo. F. Trumper Eucris
Giorgio Armani Eau de Cedre, GA Gio 2015
Isey Miyake l'Eau d'Issey Or Encens
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male (var.)
Laurent Mazzone Black Oud
Lomani AB Spirit Millionaire, Lomani Amitabh Bachchan, Lomani Gold
Louis Armand Rodeo Kings
Mahogany for Men, Mahogany Wood
Odetu Black Beard
Orientica Muntasira Dhahab
Pascal Morabito Rugby
Perfumer's Workshop Samba Rock & Roll
Quearme N-Geen
Rasasi Daarej, Rasasi Maa Arwaak, Rasasi Numero Uno
Regalien Musk Barrel
Roja Dove Danger
Salvatore Ferragamo Urban Feel
Sergio Soldano
Stefano Ricci Platinum
Ulric de Varens Homme Intense
Victorinox Swiss Army Rock
Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Extreme
Yardley Citrus & Wood
Zilli Millesime Bois de Feu

Gourmand

Gourmand scents are those with 'edible' or dessert-like' qualities. By strict definition, a gourmand fragrance is one consisting primarily or at least partly of synthetic top and middle notes designed to resemble food flavors. They have sometimes been called olfactory desserts, and in discussions of women's perfumes they often are called 'foodie' fragrances. Most gourmand scents are not intended for human consumption, although a subgroup of them include flavor in addition to scent, such as Jessica Simpson's Dessert Treats line of lip glosses, dusting powders, and lotions.


A London-based online fragrance magazine, 'The Perfume Society,' defines gourmand by saying, "Think: caramel, chocolate, milk, candy floss, coffee, cognac, toffee, almonds, even bubble gum..." Gourmands are the newest group among fragrances. It does not constitute a full-fledged fragrance family, and it is usually considered a subcategory of the general modern family of scents. Some consider it a subdivision of the Oriental group, and it is sometimes categorized in combination with the fruits and amber families.

Gourmand compositions using natural notes are most often built on vanilla, resembling sweets and desserts, and ranging from simple chocolate, cream, and caramel smells to more complex ones such as macaroons, crème brûlée, and cupcakes. Although some natural organic materials present sweet or food-like facets, the vast majority of gourmand notes used in perfumery are now produced through synthetics or mingling of natural and synthetic sources. Natural notes include vanillin, tonka bean, benzoin, roasted coffee, coconut, and honey; nearly all others, including caramel and chocolate, are synthetic 'fantasy' notes that have been developed since the laboratory aroma-chemical discoveries of the 1940s. These accords often rely heavily on derivatives of furaneol, sacrasol, maltol, and ethyl maltol (also called veltol or ethyl praline). Furaneol is a natural organic component found in strawberries and many other fruits. It has roasted sugar tones and is also used to reproduce the smells of fresh pineapple and candy. Maltol (found naturally in cocoa) suggests the aroma of chocolate. Isolated in 1969, ethyl maltol is six times more potent than maltol and evokes accents of ripe fruit, praline, and caramel. Other commonly used synthetics include diacetyl (salted butter smell), pyrazines (popcorn), and chocovan (chocolate milk).


In a 2016 interview, Givaudan creative fragrance director Naila Hamayed commented about the gourmand, "It's not a trend anymore, it's a must, something that is here to last." Initially aimed primarily to teenage girls, gourmand fragrances have become much more common, and the market has become saturated with them following some major sales successes.

Many compositions that have been termed gourmand simply create the impression of sweetness and/or edibility without actually having any individual food notes. These have been termed 'semi-gourmand' by some writers. They first appeared as early as 1850, when Piver's Heliotrope Blanc suggested a pastry shop, a sort of candied white-flower almond. In 1919, Guerlain created Mitsouko, whose undecalactone conjured a milky, velvety peach note over spices and cinnamon. And the Art Deco fragrance period (1925-39) was characterized by the heavy use of ethyl vanillin, such as in Guerlain Shalimar. 


But food-like scents have been available more widely since the 1950s, beginning around 1956 with Edmond Roundnitska's Diorissimo. Vanilia by l'Artisan Parfumeur used ethyl maltol (the scent of spun sugar and of caramel) prominently in the late 1970s. Since then many perfume houses, including Guerlain, Caron, Christian Dior, and Givenchy have produced perfume products with abstract subtle hints of food notes but without explicit 'flavors.'

Thierry Mugler's Angel, created by Olivier Cresp and launched in 1992, is usually credited as the first truly modern gourmand scent. It produced a caramel, chocolate, honey, and cotton candy effect primarily through the heavy use of ethyl maltol, combined with vanillin and natural patchouli. Angel scandalized people by the 'bombastic' dynamic proportions of its various facets. Prior to its heavy overuse in Angel, ethyl maltol had served merely as a flavor enhancer in the food industry because of its low price and the variety of its sweet facets. According to perfume historians, Angel's revolution was less about extrapolating a tone that already existed than it was about breaking down the invisible wall between flavor and fragrance, between taste and smell, and making perfume more intimate and impulsive. From being a luxury item, inaccessible and composed of exotic materials, perfume became a consumable, sharing aromas with common items of our daily life, such as candies.


It has been said that 1992, the year of Mugler's introduction of Angel, was a pivotal year in the world, the perfect time for a sweet gourmand composition to be launched. The Berlin Wall had collapsed and Germany was reunited, the USSR had fallen apart, the first Gulf War had started, and there were escalating tensions in Greece and the Balkans. These events produced a palpable, intense uncertainty, especially in the context of an approaching new millennium; and this is thought to have forced a retreat to a universal experience of comfort: the reassurance of childhood innocence, a time of candy being bought in fairs, of candied apples being glazed, and of chocolate and pastries. Thus the craze for gourmand perfumes can be seen as simply regressive, a desire to 'smell like a cookie' and return to a simpler and more carefree time.

Other early examples of synthetics being used to produce gourmand images included Mugler A*Men, Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin, Calvin Klein Euphoria, Burberry Brit for Men, Rochas Man, and Viktor & Rolf Antidote. Perfumer Antoine Lie stated, "Angel was the most important fragrance in the history of gourmand so far." And Julie Dechamps, scent design manager at IFF, said, "The trend started with Angel; Lolita Lempicka was also very influential on this category with its licorice note; and later still, Hypnotic Poison with its pastry-like powdery facet. Since then, all the houses have started to look more closely at the collaboration between the flavor and fragrance sides in the search for innovation in gourmand." Since the introduction of Angel, the gourmand trend has increased steadily in popularity.


According to Mathilde Lion, expert for the NPD Group, gourmand scents comprise 68% of the French market and 74% of the British market. And according to perfumer Émelie Coppermann, the trend is continuing strongly. She says, "Gourmand fragrances have been successful for more than 15 years now, but this trend does not decrease. On the contrary - we are indeed facing uncertain times, and it makes us long for reassurance. Gourmand scents bring us comfort, often taking us back to positive childhood memories." Christian Dior perfumer Francois Demachy thinks that the gourmand trend has been a very deep one for 10-15 years, saying, "Due to the sense of security and comfort they bring, gourmand notes have gained increasing popularity over the last two decades; not only ladies love them, but gentlemen seem happy to share their passion too."

Some studies have suggested that men are attracted to certain food odors. In the 1990s, Dr. Alan Hirsch, of the Chicago-based Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation, published research results showing that men were aroused by the scents of cinnamon buns, pumpkin pie, licorice, and buttered popcorn. His studies indicated that older men were especially aroused by vanilla. It has been theorized that gourmand perfumes act as an antidepressant, causing endorphin release. Says perfumer Marine Ipert, "Primarily, sugar helps to fuel our bodies and ease our minds. Take the example of a crying baby - just a drop of sugary water will make them feel relieved instantly! Gourmand fragrances have the same effect, by making us feel good and peaceful. They're reassuring and comforting, like a cuddly toy." Says expert Alessandra Tucci, "Vanilla scents have been completely integrated into male fragrances, as well as florals and fruits."

In general, gourmand fragrances are warm and most wearable in the cooler seasons, when uplifting feelings are most desired; and they tend to lend themselves especially to romantic evening use. The prevailing concept is that gourmand scents are not 'difficult' fragrances to wear or appreciate; one does not have to deconstruct or intellectualize a gourmand fragrance. Initially in the 1990s, gourmand notes were used mostly in feminine fragrances, but they are now included in a growing number of masculine scents and are generally considered gender-neutral. Gourmand notes frequently are combined with woody, spicy, resinous tones such as amber and cinnamon, and with use of darker or complex base notes such as patchouli or musk. Other notes frequently used in combination with gourmands include bergamot, citrus fruits, and florals.

Some perfumers have had mixed feelings about the gourmand fragrances. Jean-Claude Ellena, author and perfumer for Hermes, admires Angel but has some reservations. He says, "It has a strong shape. People can recognize you in the street as somebody who wears Angel." But he refuses to use sugary notes in his own perfumes: "When you use a sugary gourmand product, I know by experience that you please easily. And when you please easily, people are pleased for the moment, but they forget. I prefer a perfume that is more difficult to understand."

Others have claimed that despite its growth, the gourmand group actually has not changed much in character over the last 20-30 years. Perfumer Ralf Schwieger has stated that "the ethyl maltol overdose has just been going up and up. Now it is averaging around 4%. You're coming to percentages as high as 5%, and we're only talking about fine fragrances. In the US, with all the specialty retail fragrances such as Bath & Body Works, there is no limit to sweetness."

In a search for innovation, companies have turned increasingly to flavorists to advise them in how to natural food accords more accurately. Brands have hinted at savory gourmand notes as a way to differentiate themselves - and to develop gourmand smells away from generic caramel-type sweetness and more toward notes that cross the boundaries between main course and dessert. As the personal care market has evolved, perfumers have created fragrances with 'nouvelle' notes. Savory gourmand is interesting from creative and marketing standpoints because it opens the way for perfumers to experiments with another level of accords: steamed, poached, boiled, grilled, roasted, barbecued, pickled, etc. Already the company Demeter Perfumes has created fragrances called BBQ, Chipotle Pepper, Fiery Curry, Lobster, Rye Bread, Stringbean, Sushi, and Pizza. But not everyone sees the potential for non-sweet gourmand. Says perfumer Andreas Wilhelm, "The trend for savory gourmand has shown itself not to work in every market. Middle Eastern customers, for example, never got attracted by salty, and I am not sure if they will be attracted by other savory gourmand directions."


Gourmand fragrances generally considered masculine:

Adidas Originals (cotton candy), Adidas Unlock (candies)
Alfred Dunhill Egyptian Smoke (candies)
Annayake (cotton candy), Annayake Tsukiyo (cream)
Aquolina Blue Sugar (cotton candy), Aquolina Steel Sugar (gingerbread)
Asgharali Iconic (brown sugar)
Avon Pulse Level (dark chocolate)
Axe Dark Temptation (dark chocolate), Axe Provoke (marshamallow)
Azzaro The Most Wanted (toffee)
Bond No. 9 New Haarlem (coffee)
Bottega Profumiera Gourmand (vanilla, caramel)
By Kilian Gold Knight (honey)
Calvin Klein Dark Obsession (vanilla), CK Euphoria Amber Gold (honey)
Carolina Herrera 212 Glam (dark chocolate), Carolina Herrera CH (sugar)
Cartier l'Envol (honey)
Charriol Infinite Celtic Ultimate (dates)
Chopard Casran (dates)
Code Deco Tasman in Grey (maple syrup)
Cristiano Ronaldo Legacy (maple syrup)
Dame Chocolate Man (dark chocolate)
Diesel Fuel for Life (semi-gourmand)
Dolce & Gabbana The One Luminous Night (dates)
Eclectic Carte Blanche (cupcake)
English Laundry Tahitian Waters (brown sugar)
Ermenegildo Zegna Strength (candies)
Etat Libre d'Orange Vetiver (cream)
Frederick Malle Musc Ravageur (vanilla)
Giorgio Armani Stronger with You Intensely (toffee)
Guerlain Habit Rouge (vanilla, fruits), Guerlain HR Dress Code (praline), Guerlain l'Homme Ideal (cherry, almond)
Houbigant Figuier Noir (candied fruits)
Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal (caramel)
John Varvatos (dates)
Joop! Joop! (praline)
Kenzo Homme Fresh (candies)
Lacoste L.12.12 Noir (watermelon, chocolate)
Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin (licorice)
Marly Haltane (praline)
Matriarch Sacre Tabac Sucre (molasses)
Milton Lloyd Spirit of Heaven (caramel)
Nasomatto Pardon (dark chocolate)
O Boticario Egeo Beat (cereals), OB Egeo Bomb (caramel), OB Egeo Bomb Black (tiramisu), OB Lhotse Irresistivel (candies), OB The Blend Bourbon (creme brulee)
Oriflame Born to Fly (agave nectar)
Oriza Legrand Horizon (marmalade)
O.U.i. Individual Iconique 001 (brown sugar)
Paco Rabanne Pure XS Night (caramel), PR Black XS (praline), PR Black XS l'Aphrodisiaque (praline)
Playboy VIP (white chocolate)
Ralph Lauren Big Pony 2 (dark chocolate), RL Polo Supreme Leather (honey)
Roberto Cavalli (honey)
Rochas Man (vanilla)
Roccobarocco Last King (cream)
Royal Barber Golden Blade (candied fruits)
Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo (coffee, chocolate, vanilla, candies)
Swedoft Spice Surprise (dates)
Swiss Arabian Suroor (marmalade)
Thera Cosmeticos Amatus (frosting), TC Hazor (brown sugar)
Thierry Mugler A*Men (vanilla, chocolate, coffee), TMA Pure Havane (honey), TM Angel (dark chocolate)
Tommy Hilfiger 10 (cotton candy)
Valentino Uomo (vanilla, dark chocolate), VU Born in Roma Yellow Dream (gingerbread)
Yardley Gentleman Classic (white chocolate)
Zara Scent #2 (dark chocolate), Zara Tobacco Rich Warm Addictive (honey)

Pheromones

A pheromone is a chemical (or a small set of compounds) that an organism produces which affects or changes the behavior of another creature of the same species. Pheromones are similar to hormones (and are sometimes termed ectohormones), but they are secreted  and act outside the body. They are used by most organisms, from basic unicellular prokaryotes to complex multicellular eukaryotes such as mammals. Their use among insects has been particularly well documented. Some pheromones have an odor, but many do not have any discernable scent.

Etymology

The word pheromone was coined in 1959 by Peter Karlson and Martin Martin Lüscher, based on the Greek φερω pheroo ('I carry') and ὁρμων hormon ('stimulating'). They proposed this term shortly after the biochemist Adolf Butenandt characterized the first such chemical (bombykol), released by the female silkworm to attract mates.


Animal Pheromones

Animals produce pheromones to trigger many types of behaviors, including raising an alarm, signaling a food trail, stimulating sexual arousal, telling other female insects to lay their eggs elsewhere, delineating a territory, strengthening a bond between mother and offspring, and warning another animal to back away. These chemical messengers produce the physiological changes through effects on neurocircuits, hormone-mediated changes, and effect on inflammatory signaling and the immune system of the recipient.


There are four main functional types of pheromones:
Releasers - These elicit an immediate, rapid, and reliable response, and they are usually linked to sexual attraction and being drawn to a potential mate.
Primers - These take longer to provoke a response and can alter another animal's hormone levels, sometimes influencing reproductive or developmental physiology that is involved in puberty, menstrual cycles, and pregnancy.
Signalers - These provide genetic clues or information about an individual's social status or health. For example, they may help a mother to recognize her newborn by scent and might play a role in early attachment behavior.
Modulators - Typically found in sweat, modulators can alter or synchronize bodily functions, mental state, or mood, for example making a female more or less tense or affecting her focus.

Vomeronasal Organ (VNO)

Experts say that the pheromone system of insects, which have simple stereotyped behaviors, is much easier to understand than that of mammals. It is believed that mammals detect pheromones through an organ in the nose called the vomeronasal organ (VNO), which lies at the base of the nasal septum and communicates with the brain hypothalamus. Olfactory processing of chemical signals like pheromones is the oldest of the senses, and it has been suggested that it serves survival by generating appropriate behavioral responses to signals of threat, sex, and dominance status among members of a species. For example, mice can distinguish close relatives from more distantly related individuals on the basis of scent signals, enabling them to avoid mating with close relative and to minimize deleterious inbreeding.


The VNO in humans is present in the fetus but appears to be atrophied or completely absent in adults; and it is thought that if humans do respond to hormones, most likely they do it through their normal olfactory system. Trace amine-associated receptors (TAAR) in the olfactory epithelium as as receptors that detect volatile odorants, apparently including certain pheromones. Studies suggest that the TAARs may mediate general attractive or aversive behavioral responses (such as responses to foul fishy odors).


Sources of Pheromones

In mammals, pheromones are produced through scent glands found all over the body, including the mouth, paws, and anus. Cosmetic biochemist Nausheen Qureshi says that human pheromones appear to be present in the form of sweat, saliva, and other bodily secretions. "So far, most scientific research on the topic has concentrated on sweat. Compounds within these secretions can be detected by smell, and they can influence the mindset of the detecting animal."

Researchers have been trying to find human sex pheromones for decades. Says Marina Barcenilla, perfumer and founder of AromAtom, "As mammals, it's possible that human pheromones could exist. However, none have been identified to date by any robust scientific research." Various chemicals have been investigated for pheromone actions in humans, but most well-controlled scientific studies have failed to show any compelling evidence. Research in the field has suffered from small sample sizes, publication bias, false positives, and poor methodology. According to George Preti, researcher at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, "That doesn't mean a human sex pheromone doesn't exist. It must means we haven't found one yet." Scientists have collected a lot of evidence for possible pheromone effects but have not definitively identified a single human pheromone yet.


Pheromone Research

Gustav Jäger (1832-1917), a German doctor and hygienist, is thought to have been the first modern scientist to put forward the idea of human pheromones, which he called anthropines. He said that they are lipophilic compounds associated with skin and follicles and that they mark the individual's signature odors.

An inherent difficulty in studying human pheromones is the need for cleanliness and minimizing of other odors. But in that context, experiments in humans have focused on three approaches to possible pheromones: axillary steroids, vaginal aliphatic acids, and stimulators of the VNO. Axillary steroids are produced by the testes, ovaries, apocrine glands such as the sweat glands, and adrenal glands. The fact that these change in activity during puberty suggests possible communication through odors.

Axillary steroids suggested as possible human pheromones include androstadienol, androstadienone, androstenol, androstenone, and androsterone. Androstenol appears to be a female pheromone, affecting the perception of attractiveness. Androstenone is postulated to be secreted only by males as an attractant for women, acting as a positive effector for their mood. Androstadienone seems to affect the limbic system, causing a positive reaction primarily in women, with improved mood and increased attention to emotional information.

A second approach is examining a class of aliphatic acids found in the vaginal fluids of mammals, called 'copulins.' They increase in quantity before ovulation, and in monkeys they are thought to be a sexual signal to the male. In humans, it is thought they they may have other purposes, but this has been studied extensively.

The human vomeronasal organ (VNO) has epithelia that may be able to serve as a chemical sensory organ, and a third area of study is looking at possible stimulators of the VNO. However, the genes that encode VNO receptors are nonfunctional in humans; and while there are sensory neurons present in the human VNO, there seems to be no connection between the VNO and the brain or central nervous system. So far there have been no experiments comparing perception in people with VNO tissue to perception of those lacking it.

Researchers at the University of Chicago claimed in 1971 to have linked the synchronization of women's menstrual cycles to unconscious odor cues. When they exposed a group of women to a scent of sweat from other women, their menstrual cycles either accelerated or slowed down, depending upon whether the perspiration was collected before, during, or after ovulation. The lead scientist was named Martha McClintock, and the phenomenon they described was called the 'McClintock effect.' However, recent analyses of the study have questioned the validity of its methodology.

One study from 2004 found that compounds like androstenone, which acts as a pheromone for pigs, are present in human sweat and urine. "So we know that humans give off body odor and that human bodies excrete substances that pigs find sexually stimulating," says Pamela Regan, a psychology professor who studies sexual and romantic attraction at California State University, Los Angeles. She continues, "Scientists have found that human infants, children, and adults are able to discriminate between other individuals on the basis of olfactory cures - we can tell each other apart using our noses." But whether human find androstenone or other secreted chemicals to be sexually stimulating or attracting is an unanswered question.

In 2005, gay men were found to prefer then scent of other gay men when given anonymous samples of sweat, while heterosexual men preferred the scent of women's sweat.

A small 2008 study looked at how the hormone AND (androstadienone, a progesterone derivative) affects women's feelings of attracting, setting up a speed-dating trial in which some women had AND applied to their upper lips first, while others had a non-hormone control solution applied. The results indicated that the women with AND rated the men they met as more attractive, the untreated women giving lower ratings. And a study published in Respirology in 2016 showed that AND caused swelling the tissues of female human noses, suggesting the possibility that it might be a functioning pheromone.

Androstadienone (AND), found in male sweat and semen, appears to affect mood and corisol levels, to activate brain areas linked to social cognition, and possibly to increase attraction. One study found that it increased cooperative behavior in males. According to some studies, androstenone, also secreted by males, may increase a woman's libido, especially if she is exposed to it close to the time of ovulation. However, other studies indicate a negative response of women to androstenone, which is present in oxidized or 'old' male sweat. Androstenol, which is present in 'fresh' male sweat, has been shown in trials to be attractive to both genders.

In March 2017, researchers published the results of an experiment in which they exposed participants to AND, another possible pheromone called estratetraenol (EST, present in female urine), or a control and then asked them to do a task involving assessment of gender, attractiveness, or unfaithfulness of people whose faces they saw in pictures. No differences were found in the reactions of the study subjects. Says evolutionary biologist Leigh Simmons, the study's lead author, "I've convince myself that AND and EST are not worth pursuing." And Tristam Wyatt, senior researcher in zoology at Oxford University, says, "Those, I'm afraid, are junk. Humans may well have pheromones, but AND and EST haven't met this more pragmatic definition." But Wen Zhou, a behavioral psychologist at the Chinese Academy of Sciences in Beijing, contends that they may be pheromones: "My major concern with the experiments in this study is that they were not rigorously designed and conducted." And McClintock believes that the findings only negate overly simple view of AND and EST. She still thinks the chemicals may affect behavior, but in a more nuanced way than most people think, saying, "There's no doubt that this compound, even in tiny amounts, affects how the brain functions."

Scientists have attempted to ascertain if our noses can detect sexual or romantic genetic compatibility. Dr. Wyatt notes a study from 1995 by biologist Claus Wedekind that found that when women were given sweaty T-shirts worn by different men, they were drawn to those from men who were most genetically different from them. But he and other scientists remain skeptical. Says Wyatt, "It's a story that often comes up around Valentine's Day. And there are a couple of companies who will analyze your T-shirt or do all sorts of things, but there's no strong science behind it, sadly." Says neuroscientist Charles Wysocki of Monell, "They don't have any history in the biomedical literature - they just fell out of the sky."

In another approach, Noam Sobel, a neurobiologist at the Wiezmann Institute in Israel, had women watch a sad movie scene, collected their tears, and placed samples of the fluid under men's noses. The tears fluid reduce the men's sexual arousal and testosterone levels, apparently sending a type of message saying that romance was 'off the table.' Sobel has also shown that if the hand of a woman volunteer is shaken by a researcher, who then leaves the room, after a few moments the volunteer often brings her hand to her face and sniffs, somewhat like dogs inspect each other by smell.

Human Pheromones

Substances reputed to be human pheromones and frequently included among the listed ingredients of pheromone perfumes include epiandrosterone, alpha-androstano, androstadienone, and androstenone. However, perfume fragrances are not regulated by the FDA beyond ensuring that they are safe, so companies do not need to disclose all their ingredients. Says Kerry Hughes, an ethnobotanist and clinical herbalist in private practice and author of 'Botanicals With Benefits,' "If they just say it has pheromones, but there is no information on any company materials, the it seems suspect." A product may claim to contain pheromones, but it may actually not contain any - or even have any active ingredients at all. Even if the pheromones are real and animalic, they may be sourced from other animals such as dogs or pigs rather than being human. In addition there are many obstacles to synthesizing human hormones to use in a perfume, so most commercial pheromone products actually use plant compounds to reproduce the desired effects. Studies have shown that perfume manufacturers usually do not follow any scientific protocols in the design and fabrication of pheromone perfumes.

Compounding the confusion is the fact that there are only very limited studies on whether synthetic pheromones used in commercial fragrances have the same level of influence that one's natural secretions produce.  Barcenilla notes, "This could be because the pheromones you produce are far and wide, and contain a huge number of chemicals and substances that lead to a specific response. It is very personalized." Perfumer Geza Schön of Escentric Molecules is skeptical of synthetic perfume pheromones: "Pheromone perfumes just do not work, because we don't have synthesized pheromones which we can use as ingredients." And Regan has noted that human attraction is much more complex than in other mammals: "We don't require the presence of a particular hormone or chemical secretion to feel desire, to want sex, or to become attracted to another member of the species. I'd recommend simply buying any fragrance that appeals to you - and if your partner likes it, too, that's a bonus." Researchers involved in a number of studies have noted that their results were 'situation-dependent,' meaning that the role of pheromones, if any, might depend on other personal or environmental factors. Says Craig Roberts, a psychologist at the University of Stirling in the UK, "We're interested in personality, sense of humor, reliability as a partner, and a host of other things. Detecting a small effect is going to be difficult."

Controversies

In his 2010 book 'The Great Pheromone Myth,' Richard Doty, director of the University of Pennsylvania's Smell and Taste Center, argues that the concept of pheromone initially introduced by Karlson and Lüscher is too simple for mammalian systems, failing to take into account learning and the context-dependence of chemo-sensation. He is especially critical of the idea of human pheromones. According to Doty, the functions of pheromones are to produce unlearned, reflexive, and innate responses. He says that the chemical stimuli to which mammals respond are typically combinations of many compounds, which are sensed in complex social situations. He concluded that human pheromones are a myth that is driven in part by the economics of what he calls the 'junk-science industry of pheromone-perfumes, pheromone-soaps, and pheromone cosmetics,' which he says arose from misunderstood research with other mammals. Although his book was received well generally by the scientific community, some have said he does not consider some of the more recent scientific studies that conflict with his views.

Some have complained that wearing a pheromone perfume, despite appearing to be pretty harmless, is a form of cheating, a way of 'hacking' another person's senses with the intention of attracting them without their will. But Talbott says, "The bottom line is that no type of pheromone can force someone into a mood state that they don't want to be in." Experts suggest that if human pheromones do exist, their effects are probably very subtle and would not override a person's will or inclinations. Real pheromones could have an effect on someone who is already emotionally close to you, but chances are very small that the kind of substances found in a commercial spray would even reach a stranger, much less make them attracted to you. Sexuality researcher Rebecca Alvarez Story notes, "From a biological perspective, smell is an arousal system and contributes to sexual attraction, stimulation, and satisfaction. If an individual wants to be sexually appealing, the most direct approach is to practice good hygiene, eliminate any repulsive odors, and use alluring fragrances."

Pheromone Trend

TikTok has gained a reputation for launching fragrances to viral fame with claims of sexual or romantic effects. IntiMD's Pure Instinct Crave and Heaux Cosmietics scent Habitué Provocateur have sold out repeatedly thanks to the 'pheromones' reported online to be included in their formulas. Crave is claimed to contain 'pheromones imported from Italy,' while Habitué Provocateur lists copulins (chemicals secreted in the vagina during menstruation) and the testicular neuro-steroid androstenol among its ingredients. Researchers, however, have not confirmed the effects of these substances. Says Dr. Wyatt, "The challenge is, humans are very smelly. And research of anything to do with attraction, particularly sexual attraction, is really poor. Apart from the ethics committees, humans are difficult animals to work with. We think too much, we learn too quickly. Because we're mammals, we might well have pheromones, but none have been found yet." He continues that while copulins and androstenol might be pheromones, the research is not definitive. "It's actually a problem of publication bias. People only publish when they find something positive. It fits into the wider story of the whole problem of psychology: Things that are really nice ideas may, in small experiments, show an effect. But when you try to repeat it, you find there actually wasn't anything there."

Says Wyatt of the TikTok phenomenon involving these products, "It's simply new audiences being found, and the marketing keeping up with the times." According to Eden Campbell, strategy manager at ad agency Movers+Shakers, TikTok's algorithm is able to bring in audiences who were not previously immersed in the fragrance world: "The difference with TikTok is that the 'For You' page starts serving things up that you never thought you would be interested in. At the end of the day, especially if you're not in the perfume space, you don't really care about the high note, the middle note, the low note, the 'smells like thing thing you've never heard of.' It's about the results you're getting. Gen Z is the first generation whose physical and digital lives are intertwined. And what we've seen is so many of these viral TikTok products are rooted in experiences that are very sensory-focused." The fact that TikTokkers don't thoroughly describe perfume notes is not a drawback, but rather precisely what helps the products go viral. "TikTok is really becoming this evolution in a much larger way. And so much of what sells beauty products is people speaking to the FOMO (fear of missing out) effect," she adds. "Perfume is invisible. Creating this hype, the sort of thing that you can't explain unless you have it, I think is a big aspect of why the perfumes have gone viral."

Amanda Carr, fragrance trend forecaster, agrees: "If you're young and beautiful and after a mate, wearing perfume becomes all about attracting someone with how you smell. But the idea that a magical 'pheromone' ingredient can make you irresistible is something we'd all be interested in. We crave kindness, happiness, and comfort from other humans because many of us were deprived of it during lockdown. For anyone who lost their sense of smell during COVID, not to be able to smell the comforting scent of your own home, or your partner, or family, can be devastating and isolating." Carr suggests that popular pheromone fragrances probably use a good quantity of musk notes: "Think soft, mineralesque, warm, comforting, and familiar. Perfumers have a huge array of these musk notes they can use in fragrance, and they often appear as the base notes because they hang around on the skin for a long time. The smell of warm skin is very familiar and appealing."

Anyone with a TikTok account also could do a quick online search and find out that the existence of human pheromones is still debated and that the promises made by perfumes are likely unsubstantiated, but most people don't, because the fantasy of guaranteed love or sex is too attractive to pass up. Says Wyatt, "It goes back to the hope. We're looking for somebody. And if this is going to increase the chance of finding somebody, then that's a very attractive proposition." According to perfume and style blogger Chriselle Lim, "The idea of another person's scent is very intimate and understandable. I think collectively, we are all in a place where we desire security comfort, and the warmth of someone we love."

Barcenilla believes that pheromone perfumes are a fad, but she says that believing in their effects provides a psychological boost, which may be able to kickstart an unconscious positive behavioral change in the wear, perhaps leading to an unexpected response from others. This result, a sort of placebo effect, may lead one to feel or act sexier or be more outgoing. According to Shawn Talbott, biochemist and author, "Pheromones do have effects on ourselves and on other people in close proximity. So yes, they do work in that sense. But they don't 'work' in the way that most of those ads say. For instance, the hormone oxytocin has been shown to cause relaxation and connection between people. That's why it's commonly known as the 'cuddle chemical' or the 'bonding hormone.' We know that plant compounds, like lavender and chamomile, can be used to reduce stress and enhance relaxation. So if stress is interfering with mood and suppressing libido, then we can use 'plant pheromones' to reduce stress. And if you're less stressed, then maybe your sex drive increases a bit."

Scent Magnifiers

Schön says that certain fragrances can intensify our own personal scents, claiming that "Escentric Molecules 01 would probably be the only perfume you could say has a pheromonic effect on human beings. It's why so many people in the streets walk up to someone wearing it." Its ingredients include Iso E Super (warm and woody), ambroxan (salty and skinlike), and cashmeran (musky and spicy).

Some fragrances, such Phlur Missing Person, are marketed as being 'skin scents,' claiming to allow one's own aroma to come through the scent. Pure Instinct Crave is similarly promoted for its ability to 'blend with your skin pH,' promising a fragrance that is both universal and one-of-a-kind for each wearer. Says Firmenich perfumer Dora Baghriche, "It is clean and dirty at the same time. It is sexy and transparent at the same time. So in fact, it's a matter of contradiction when you create a skin scent. And that's the beauty of it. Our pHs are not neutral. Even if we don't wear clothes, there's the pH of our skin. Our culture, environment, what we eat, where we live - all this influences the formula of our skin, the base, and the smell of our skin. A fragrance will react with that. It's like an outfit. The shape of a person, the behavior, influences everything." Carr says, "They all smell like a better version of our own skin." Skin scents, usually smelling warm, familiar, and vaguely salty (like the faintest hint of sweat), often rely on musk to create an aroma that is both clean and animalic. Some experts think that skin scents are or will be overtaking pheromone perfumes in popularity.


Pheromone Advertising

Advertising of pheromone compounds is aggressive and demonstrates little attention to facts or truth. Some commercial pheromone products are aimed specifically at men or women, some are advertised as unisex, and a few are marketed for gay men. There are  'unscented' pheromone sprays that can be used in combination with one's regular fragrances.


And single pheromone chemicals are marketed, some generically, for those who believe in the efficacy of a particular one.


Some companies, including major ones, advertise other personal care pheromone products, such as bath soap, body wash, shampoo, shaving cream, aftershave, deodorant, or whole collections of grooming items.


Pheromone Products in the Future

Some experts predict that the use of commercially synthesized human pheromones in perfume products will become possible in the near future and will produce a kind of revolution in the industry, becoming a paradigm for most fragrances and moving perfumery from the realm of art to that of science. Researchers must strive to systematically catalogue the chemical contents of bodily secretions, which is very challenging for many reasons, including the fact that the compounds may be present at extremely low levels or in quantities that vary over time. Roberts has begun working with a highly sensitive technology known as proton-transfer reaction time-of-flight mass spectrometry (PTR-TOF), which can detect very small changes in airborne odorant chemicals in real time and may facilitate identification of true human pheromone molecules.

Popular and heavily advertised pheromone colognes for men include:

Alfamarker (various)
AlphaMale
Botanic Tree 100 Degrees Celsius
Do Me Seduce Her
Pherolec Androstenonum Max
Aromolon (various)
Love Potion Charisma
FragrantShare Cologne
Love Scent
Nexus Pheromones
Pherazone for Men
PheromoneXS (various)
Pherone Formula D-17X
Pure Instinct Roll-On
RawChemistry Midnight, RawChemistry Pheromone Cologne
S1ck Alpha Q
True Pheromones (various)
Virochemistry (various)

Welcome...

You should use an extended theory to understand how to choose your perfume fragrance. It divides these products into several groups. Anyway, thank you very much for the useful information. I think many people will be able to choose a high-quality fragrance for themselves, thanks to it. However, I still can’t use it properly. Last week, I decided to test a new one and ordered it from https://www.decantx.com. Btw, men’s perfumes also need to be selected for a special occasions. It is better to have 2-3 bottles in the locker.

You should use an extended theory to understand how to choose your perfume fragrance. It divides these products into several groups.

I have no idea what you're talking about.

You should use an extended theory to understand how to choose your perfume fragrance. It divides these products into several groups.

I have no idea what you're talking about.

likely spam. we'll see sooner than later!

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is an evergreen, perennial, succulent plant species in the Liliaceae or Agavaceae family of the genus Aloe. The genus has around 500 species. DNA studies suggest that A. vera originated on the Arabian Peninsula. The species was introduced to China and southern Europe in the 17th century. It subsequently has become naturalized in North Africa, Sudan and neighboring countries, Spain, Portugal, the Canary Islands, Cape Verde, and the Madeira Islands. It now grows wild in many tropical, semi-tropical, and arid climates around the world; it is considered to be invasive in some regions.


Aloe is cultivated commercially mainly for use in topical skin products and treatments, but it also is grown for decorative purposes. There is large-scale agricultural production of it in Australia, Cuba, the Dominican Republic, China, Mexico, India, Jamaica, Spain, Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, and the U.S.


Aloe Botany

Aloe vera's name derives from Greek and Latin, aloe of uncertain origin and meaning (but thought to come from an Arabic word meaning 'bitter and shiny substance') and vera meaning 'true.' Other frequently used common names vary with the region of its distribution, the major ones being Curacao Aloe, Barbados Aloe, Indian Aloe, and Jaffarabad Aloe. The species was first described by Carl Linnaeus in 1753. 


Aloe vera is a stemless plant growing to 24-40 inches in height. The leaves are thick, fleshy, and green to grey-green in color, with pointed tips and a serrated margin lined with small white teeth. The leaves have four layers: an outer protective rind, a sap layer of fluid with a very bitter smell and taste which help to protect the plant from animals, an inner mucilage gel, and an inner amino acid gel. Some plant varieties have white flecks on the stem surfaces. The flowers, produced in summer, are pendant and yellow; and there is a triangular fruit that contains many seeds. Aloe forms a symbiosis with soil fungi, allowing it access to mineral nutrients. The plants are 95% water by weight.


Uses

Two substances from the plant, a clear gel and a yellow latex, are commonly used in commercial products, while the juice and essential oil (extract) are used less often. The gel, obtained by filleting of the mucilage layer of the leaf, typically is used to make topical medications for skin conditions such as burns, wounds, frostbite, rashes, psoriasis, cold sores, and dry skin. Aloe vera is frequently added to makeup, skin tissues, moisturizers, soaps, sunscreens, shaving creams, and shampoos. The academic literature notes that its inclusion in hygiene products is mainly because of its reputed 'moisturizing emollient effect.' Its benefits are also said to include anti-inflammatory properties, support of collagen production, decreased burn and wound healing time and reduced scarring, antifungal and antibacterial action, and protection against the effects of radiation therapy.

A. vera has been used for centuries in traditional medicine as a skin treatment. There are records of its use as early as the fourth millennium BC in Egypt, and it is mentioned in the Natural History of Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD) and in other Greek texts. Alexander the Great was said to have sent his soldiers to the island of Socotra in order to grow aloe. It is discussed multiple times in the Bible, and it was known to have been grown and used by King Solomon. In the narratives of his travels, Marco Polo described many applications of the A. vera plant. Christopher Columbus brought A. vera on his cruises to heal ailments of his crew.


There is conflicting modern clinical evidence since the 1930s for the effectiveness and safety of aloe as a topical drug, but many experts believe that it does have benefits. Says, Dr. Manasija Rath, a physician at Penn Presbyterian Internal Medicine, "It contains anti-inflammatory chemical compounds - which reduce swelling - called anthraquinones. These chemical compounds promote healing and alleviate pain when applied to your skin. If your skin needs to heal, aloe may be a good option." And for cold sores, she says, "Fortunately aloe can soothe the pain from cold sores and make them heal faster by making your skin cells regenerate faster - which means healthy cells will grow to replace the infected ones." The identified components that are thought to be beneficial include vitamins, minerals, enzymes, sugars, lignin, sterols, amino acids, and salicylic acid. Topical use of Aloe became somewhat more standardized in the 1970s, when there was a breakthrough in processing techniques that allowed stabilization of the leaf gel to preserve its potency.


Use of topical aloe is not associated with significant side effects, and the majority of studies show it to be safe. But a few people can become allergic to Aloe vera, with skin reactions including redness and itching and sometimes systemic symptoms such as swelling of the face, lips, tongue, or throat and difficulty breathing.

The aloe latex, which contains the compound aloin, has been used in over-the-counter products to be ingested for relief of constipation, but in 2002 the FDA stopped regulating its use because manufacturers failed to provide necessary safety data. It is still marketed to treat constipation and for support of digestive system health, but it is not regulated and there is little scientific evidence for its effectiveness. When ingested in large amounts, A. vera can induce abdominal pain, diarrhea, or hepatitis; chronic ingestion may cause hematuria, weight loss, and cardiac or kidney disorders. Various state offices of environmental health have listed aloe extract as among 'chemicals known to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity.' Ingested aloe products also may have adverse interactions with prescription drugs, including those used to treat diabetes, heart disease, and hypertension, limiting the body's ability to absorb the medicines. Aloe extract is included commercially in beverages, yogurts, and dessert to improve their textures.

A. vera's succulence enables it to survive in areas of low natural rainfall, making it ideal for decorative home use in rockeries and other low water-use gardens. It is also often grown indoors in pots. In some areas, especially India and the northwestern Himalayas, it is planted as a hedge around houses.

Aloe Extract

Extract or essential oil from the leaves of aloe is obtained by cold pressing or by steam distillation under reduced pressure followed by chemical extraction and purging. As many as 120 aroma chemicals have been identified by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry, with alcohols, terpenoids, and aldehydes primarily providing its faint scent.


Overall, the oil is said to have a very subtle, light, green, herbal, leafy, sappy scent. It is described as fresh, clean, aquatic, and 'chill' or 'transparent.' Aloe can sometimes leave a mild lingering suggestion of mint. It is among the mildest of fragrances and is included in perfume compositions primarily to highlight other notes, very rarely being used alone or as a dominant character. Aloe is said to blend especially well with lavender, white lily, clover, cucumber, aquatics, and citruses.

The few masculine fragrances with a relatively significant Aloe vera note include:

Avon Sidney, Avon Exploration
Azzaaro Chrome Apres Sport
Carlo Cool
Forever 25th Edition
Jaguar Fresh Man
Kashkha No. 7
Key West Aloe
Mühle Aloe Vera
Sante Naturkosmetik Homme Bio-Aloe
ScentOfLove Blue for Him[/i]

Amazing thread for terms that I don't know. Thank you. The best sandalwood perfumes I have come from Indian perfumeries. This thread is referring mostly to Western perfumeries or Western terms that I am not familiar with, I buy only natural perfumes from the East. The only western perfumes I have are Castle Forbes with real Neroli and oakmoss and some Indy houses. Back to sandalwood. My very best sandalwood perfumes (not oils, I have some Attars too) are:
1. Santa Maria - extrait de perfume 42% real Mysore Sandalwood that you can buy here: 
https://showroom.dotpe.in/startuparomas3...a---100-ml
Startup Aromas is maybe my favourite Indian house with only natural perfumes and Attars. Their incense is outstanding too. 
2. Red sandalwood and Iranian saffron extrait de perfume from here:
https://maisondefouzdar.com/products/santal-safran/
Thank you again for this amazing thread.