#2,431

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
(This post was last modified: 01-20-2022, 09:19 PM by churchilllafemme.)
Just a heads up to anyone interested: I have posted a brief review of the new Mélange d'Agrumes Vegan Shave Crème in the reviews section. It is a great cream, performing extremely well and wonderfully fragrant.
[Image: vgzOwBH.jpg]

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John
#2,432
(01-20-2022, 09:19 PM)churchilllafemme Wrote: Just a heads up to anyone interested: I have posted a brief review of the new Mélange d'Agrumes Vegan Shave Crème in the reviews section. It is a great cream, performing extremely well and wonderfully fragrant.
[Image: vgzOwBH.jpg]

Thank you John. I’m glad you like the Vegan Shave Creme. I think it brings out the scent better than the Shave soap base it was in before. 

Best regards my friend
#2,433
(This post was last modified: 01-21-2022, 11:46 PM by Dragonsbeard.)
(01-20-2022, 06:25 PM)RayClem Wrote: Some time ago, I evaluated a sample of ETHOS Lavender shaving soap that was kindly sent to me by another forum member. Although I got an excellent shave using the soap, I was somewhat disappointed in the post shave experience. Due to my sensitive skin, I like shaving soaps that leave my skin feeling soft, supple and moisturized for many hours after the shave. In the case of the earlier formula, the post-shave did not quite meet my expectations, but showed promise. Because of Frank's scientific approach to soapmaking and skin care, I expected that he would one day be able to meet may expectations. That day has arrived.



Recently Frank released the ETHOS shaving soap in the F Base formula. That formula was designed to be firm to benefit those who like to load directly from the tub as I do. He also improved the post-shave properties. That encouraged me to purchase a 4 oz. tub of ETHOS F Base shaving soap in the Lavender scent. Here is may formal evaluation of that soap.



1. First, the lavender scent is a beautiful,  pure lavender scent with no supplemental scent notes. The lavender used has a low level of camphor, so it is not as pungent as some lavender scents. For those who may have tried Grooming Dept Kairos Lavender, the scents are quite similar.

2. The soap is quite firm. It is not as firm as a hard puck, but it is firm enough so it is not easily dented with your finger.

3. The soap is easy to load. I bloomed the soap with 1 Tablespoon of water for approximately 10 seconds and poured the bloom water into my lather bowl. Loading my slightly damp Simpson Trafalgar T3 synthetic brush for 8-10 seconds loaded more than enough soap for 5 lathering passes.

4. The soap is easy to lather. Initially, the lather was somewhat foamy, but after 30 seconds of vigorous swirling in the bowl, all the large bubbles were gone and the lather was ready to apply to my face.

5. The primary slickness was excellent. The secondary slickness was more than sufficient for buffing strokes. When it came time for my clean-up pass, I did my entire face with a combination of XTG and ATG buffing strokes without applying any additional lather. I was unable to do that with the original ETHOS sample I tried, so I was greatly encouraged. There are only a few soaps that I have found to be good enough to allow me to complete my clean-up pass without relathering.

6. The soap has excellent cushion/protection. Following my shave, I received no feedback when I applied witch hazel to my face. I was able to achievemy goal of a near BBS shave with zero irritation.
7. The post-shave exceeded my expectations. After my shave and before applying witch hazel, I apply a bonus lather to my face and allow it to remain on my skin while I am cleaning my shaving gear. Then I remove the excess lather using a microfiber cloth. I expect the soap to leave my skin feeling soft, supple, moist and conditioned for a minimum of 8 hours after the shave. The soaps that meet all my expectations fall into my elite category. There are fourteen shave soaps in my den whose post-shave lasts beyond 16 hours; those are my super-elite soaps. Of those super-elite soaps, only four have provided post shaves lasting beyond the 24 hours mark. ETHOS F Base is one of those top four soaps in my collection. That is quite the accomplishment.

Congratulations to Frank for a job well done in providing a superb soap base and a superb 


RayClem 

Thank you for the detailed review of the F Base Shave soap. I’m glad you enjoyed your shaving experience with it. I’ve never tried blooming the soap but using it quite often you may have gotten some of the bubbles because of that I’m thinking but I always say whatever works best for the individual. 

As far as Post Shave with the Lavender Sample you used back awhile I’m thinking first off I often don’t get the true value or characteristics of a shave soap from samples. Doesn’t make sense but it’s happened to me multiple times throughout my 20 years in wet shaving so personally in not big on samples. Also the earlier version of what I now call the S Base for standard base has been modified since the very first release almost 2 years ago which I suspect was what you used.  The new S Base is firmer so that jar lathers can build their lather from the jar but soft enough to be able to scoop it out if their preference is bowl lather so it’s not as firm as the F Base. The new S Base from the feedback I’ve gotten as far as post shave has been very good and it started with my Vanilla Safi which was the first soap with the new S Base and recently I made both the Lavender Supreme and Succes in the new S Base. You can now tell all my bases by the code on the side labels. So F Base, S Base, VC for Vegan Creme and the new soon to be released Tallow Shave Creme which is coded TC Base.  

The Lavender I use is direct from a grower in Provence France. A friend of mine who makes organic skin care got me the connection and I’ve tried a lot of Lavender Essential Oils and it’s the best French Lavender I’ve ever smelled or used from any supplier I work with. Although I just got an Italian Tuscan Lavender Absolute that’s equally as amazing but in a different way and it may be the answer to making a pure Lavender EDT or EDP as the projection is awesome! 

Ive been meaning to do a detailed write up on Post shave from both a scientific point of view and to voice my opinon on the 5 different types or categories  of post shave I’ve experienced and recognize from a vast amount of shave soaps I’ve used.. especially focusing on more of the modern soaps I’ve used. It may make for an interesting read. 


bottom line I’m glad you liked it and I’m even more glad it didn’t bother your sensitive skin. I always joke about “ if it passes the Dan Law test then it’s good to go for most as his skin is beyond the normal realm of sensitive skin. Lol 



Great Shaves! 


Frank

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#2,434

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
Having lived in France, ETHOS Lavender smells exactly like the fields in the countryside. No other soap encountered (and encountered nearly every lavender soap mentioned on DFS since joining) has met that standard, just fact. Scentwise, it dead balls on

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#2,435

Member
Chicago Suburbs
Frank

I never like evaluating samples. However, the biggest problem I encounter is typically with the cushion/protection of the soap as I may not be able to get the hydration of the lather where I want it to be. . If I remember correctly, I did have a minor issue with the protectiveness of the shave when evaluating the sample of the original soap. However, since I attributed the issue to evaluation of a sample, I did not include that as a shortcoming in my original post.That was my problem, not the soap's. 

I am not quite sure how evaluating a sample vs a full tub would have any impact upon the longevity of the post-shave, especially since I apply a bonus lather following my shave to allow any conditioning ingredients to absorb into the skin.  I attribute the improvement in post-shave to the changes made in the F Base. I believe you mentioned an increase in hyaluronic acid which may well have accounted for the improvement in post-shave. I am probably more attuned to small variations in post-shave performance than most people would be. I check my face every few hours after the shave to see if the conditioning ingredients are still working. F Base continued working like the Energizer Bunny.

I rarely use a post-shave splash, balm, serum or other skin food. However, I used to use a balm when the temperature drops below 10 degrees F as it has done frequently this January. However, as long as I stick with my super-elite class of soaps, I do not even need to use a balm under those conditions. Yesterday, the temperature was around 9 degrees, but I went out 20 hours after shaving with F Base. I felt no need to apply a shave balm to protect my face. That is a terrific result.

Someone mentioned that they got less post-shave with the Lavender scent than they did with some of the other scents. Both the sample and the tub I purchased were Lavender, so that was not an issue.

As for my loading/lathering method, I use it for most soaps and find that it works unless I am using creams, croaps and very soft soaps that cannot tolerate any blooming and hard tallow puck which often need lengthy bloom times. I only bloom the soap for a few seconds until the bloom water starts to turn milky. I have found that loosens the top layer of soap such that it is easy to load the right amount of soap for my shave. I realize that someone who only does a two pass shave might not need to bloom the soap at all, but since I do a five pass shave plus a bonus lather, I find that the brief blooming works well for me.

My only disappointment with ETHOS is the pricing. Although I have the monetary resources to purchase it, I am reluctant to spend more than $30 for any soap. I know I am unlikely to live long enough to finish the soaps I already have in my den. Thus, I do not anticipate purchasing a collection of ETHOS scents, although I know I would like a number of them. Since I have more than enough elite and super-elite soaps to last me for years, my focus is now on finding soaps with "perfume grade" scents. I consider Lisse Collection Lavender Supreme to be a perfume grade scent, even if it is a simple scent.

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#2,436

Posting Freak
(01-20-2022, 06:25 PM)RayClem Wrote: Some time ago, I evaluated a sample of ETHOS Lavender shaving soap that was kindly sent to me by another forum member. Although I got an excellent shave using the soap, I was somewhat disappointed in the post shave experience. Due to my sensitive skin, I like shaving soaps that leave my skin feeling soft, supple and moisturized for many hours after the shave. In the case of the earlier formula, the post-shave did not quite meet my expectations, but showed promise. Because of Frank's scientific approach to soapmaking and skin care, I expected that he would one day be able to meet may expectations. That day has arrived.



Recently Frank released the ETHOS shaving soap in the F Base formula. That formula was designed to be firm to benefit those who like to load directly from the tub as I do. He also improved the post-shave properties. That encouraged me to purchase a 4 oz. tub of ETHOS F Base shaving soap in the Lavender scent. Here is may formal evaluation of that soap.



1. First, the lavender scent is a beautiful,  pure lavender scent with no supplemental scent notes. The lavender used has a low level of camphor, so it is not as pungent as some lavender scents. For those who may have tried Grooming Dept Kairos Lavender, the scents are quite similar.

2. The soap is quite firm. It is not as firm as a hard puck, but it is firm enough so it is not easily dented with your finger.

3. The soap is easy to load. I bloomed the soap with 1 Tablespoon of water for approximately 10 seconds and poured the bloom water into my lather bowl. Loading my slightly damp Simpson Trafalgar T3 synthetic brush for 8-10 seconds loaded more than enough soap for 5 lathering passes.

4. The soap is easy to lather. Initially, the lather was somewhat foamy, but after 30 seconds of vigorous swirling in the bowl, all the large bubbles were gone and the lather was ready to apply to my face.

5. The primary slickness was excellent. The secondary slickness was more than sufficient for buffing strokes. When it came time for my clean-up pass, I did my entire face with a combination of XTG and ATG buffing strokes without applying any additional lather. I was unable to do that with the original ETHOS sample I tried, so I was greatly encouraged. There are only a few soaps that I have found to be good enough to allow me to complete my clean-up pass without relathering.

6. The soap has excellent cushion/protection. Following my shave, I received no feedback when I applied witch hazel to my face. I was able to achievemy goal of a near BBS shave with zero irritation.
7. The post-shave exceeded my expectations. After my shave and before applying witch hazel, I apply a bonus lather to my face and allow it to remain on my skin while I am cleaning my shaving gear. Then I remove the excess lather using a microfiber cloth. I expect the soap to leave my skin feeling soft, supple, moist and conditioned for a minimum of 8 hours after the shave. The soaps that meet all my expectations fall into my elite category. There are fourteen shave soaps in my den whose post-shave lasts beyond 16 hours; those are my super-elite soaps. Of those super-elite soaps, only four have provided post shaves lasting beyond the 24 hours mark. ETHOS F Base is one of those top four soaps in my collection. That is quite the accomplishment.

Congratulations to Frank for a job well done in providing a superb soap base and a superb scent.
Yes. Good post . Agree on all points

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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#2,437
(This post was last modified: 01-22-2022, 09:19 PM by Dragonsbeard.)
[quote pid="437660" dateline="1642810067"]
Frank

I never like evaluating samples. However, the biggest problem I encounter is typically with the cushion/protection of the soap as I may not be able to get the hydration of the lather where I want it to be. . If I remember correctly, I did have a minor issue with the protectiveness of the shave when evaluating the sample of the original soap. However, since I attributed the issue to evaluation of a sample, I did not include that as a shortcoming in my original post.That was my problem, not the soap's. 

I am not quite sure how evaluating a sample vs a full tub would have any impact upon the longevity of the post-shave, especially since I apply a bonus lather following my shave to allow any conditioning ingredients to absorb into the skin.  I attribute the improvement in post-shave to the changes made in the F Base. I believe you mentioned an increase in hyaluronic acid which may well have accounted for the improvement in post-shave. I am probably more attuned to small variations in post-shave performance than most people would be. I check my face every few hours after the shave to see if the conditioning ingredients are still working. F Base continued working like the Energizer Bunny.

I rarely use a post-shave splash, balm, serum or other skin food. However, I used to use a balm when the temperature drops below 10 degrees F as it has done frequently this January. However, as long as I stick with my super-elite class of soaps, I do not even need to use a balm under those conditions. Yesterday, the temperature was around 9 degrees, but I went out 20 hours after shaving with F Base. I felt no need to apply a shave balm to protect my face. That is a terrific result.

Someone mentioned that they got less post-shave with the Lavender scent than they did with some of the other scents. Both the sample and the tub I purchased were Lavender, so that was not an issue.

As for my loading/lathering method, I use it for most soaps and find that it works unless I am using creams, croaps and very soft soaps that cannot tolerate any blooming and hard tallow puck which often need lengthy bloom times. I only bloom the soap for a few seconds until the bloom water starts to turn milky. I have found that loosens the top layer of soap such that it is easy to load the right amount of soap for my shave. I realize that someone who only does a two pass shave might not need to bloom the soap at all, but since I do a five pass shave plus a bonus lather, I find that the brief blooming works well for me.

My only disappointment with ETHOS is the pricing. Although I have the monetary resources to purchase it, I am reluctant to spend more than $30 for any soap. I know I am unlikely to live long enough to finish the soaps I already have in my den. Thus, I do not anticipate purchasing a collection of ETHOS scents, although I know I would like a number of them. Since I have more than enough elite and super-elite soaps to last me for years, my focus is now on finding soaps with "perfume grade" scents. I consider Lisse Collection Lavender Supreme to be a perfume grade scent, even if it is a simple scent.
[/quote]

As I mentioned everyone has their own shaving rituals and I can respect that as far as blooming the soaps. 

What I’d like to address is your comment on pricing in depth not only to respond to you but for anyone of the members or my customers that read this post.  
At the time I decided to making Mens Grooming products which was only a couple of years ago one of the many things I had to make decisions on was what kind of packaging would I like to use for my shave soaps.  My absolute first choice was glass as it’s a much better environment than plastic as far as product stability goes especially if your using a lot of naturals.like I prefer to use.  Aluminum is also very good  for naturals but it dents easily and the percentage of jars that can be lost in a good sized pallet shipment was a risk I was not willing to take Also finding a jar large  enough or should I say wide enough for loading a shave soap are very hard or almost impossible to get in the US  unless your ordering many thousands of jars. Their made in China so Chins is the best option to get them from. Again a path I did want to take.  So glass was what I set my sirs on at first but again my disappointment came after doing my sourcing that the only glass jar suitable for shave soap was a jar made in Italy and only one US supplier carried them but the minimum order was 30,000. Well the price was much higher than the typical plastic jars that are more commonly used.in the shaving world.  Well that idea also came crashing down when I got a shipping quote on a pallet of these beautiful glass jars direct from Italy. The shipping costs were  equal to the already expensive cost of the jars so my cost per jar doubled with the shipping and that price was just way to much. So my next choice was plastic and I knew I wanted a clear almost glass looking jar of high quality and the first jars I bought back then I thought were just that but they had a problem of cracking as they were made of styrene plastic which is very brittle. Something I learned the hard way as I had no experience with the plastic . So always loving the quality and look of the MDC jar I started my search and to make a long story short after again not finding them in the US I thought maybe I’ll try to make contact with MDC knowing that they may not want to share their supplier with another shave soap maker.  Well was I surprised as they are a very nice family and we’re kind enough to not only give me their suppliers name but also sone valuable shipping info. So that is my 7 oz jar and I’ll say it’s not cheap. It’s around 4 times more expensive than the more popular PET or HDPE jars that most use. In fact my brushed aluminum lid on my jars alone are about $.40 cents more than the whole jar and cap of the plastic jars I mentioned that most use so between the jar and the lid I’m starting out with a much higher cost as far as packaging goes but it’s the path I wanted to take as I have to like the look of my packaging and from many of my customers phone chats their glad I choice that jar as well.

The other reason my products cost a bit more than some is that I’m using expensive scientifically proven skin beneficial ingredients found in high quality skin care products where the technology is far more advanced than hair care which comes in 2nd in the cosmetic industry which I’ve been a part of for the last 28 years and certainly far more advanced than shaving products have been. I have a special blend called the EOS Complex which was actually developed for a very high end skin care product line that I worked on as product developer along with one of the best cosmetic chemists in the country and the number one supplier/ manufacturer of the finest most technically  advanced skin and hair care ingredient company in the world.  The project was only a month away from production and the 3 partners had a huge fight between them which ended up in a legal battle that ended the project. I having a great long term relationship with the ingredient company asked if I could acquire the proprietary rights to the complex.  They were happy to give it to me and I got a 4 year agreement and so I named it the EOS Complex which stands for Earth Ocean and Science as it’s was originally composed of 34 skin beneficial active ingredients ( now has 36 ) that that come from those 3 sources. The ingredients address not only the epidermis layer providing protection and a  soft post shave feel without an oily feeling but mostly go into the Dermis layer of the skin and do their thing  which actually improves the overall quality of the skin. ThisComplex is quite expensive which also adds to the cost of the products I use it in. There are also many other ingredients that I use that are expensive as I lean very strongly to using naturals when I can,  especially when it comes to my aromas  or aroma blends as I call them and if I have to use a chemical within a blend if there’s no natural choice I only use Accords and not pre made candle/ soap making fragrance oils that are much less expensive. I use Sheep and Camel milk both of which are more expensive than other mild and in the case of the Sheep’s milk not easily found. Also and I’ll say this publicly I don’t mark my products up as much as many other products do. I have 6 very well known soap maker friends of mine who have actually said to me you need to raise your prices but my business model was originally not to use vendors but only sell through my website so I was ok with my pricing. When I did take on the vendors that presented a challenge but I’ve got some awesome vendors and we worked things out so they work for both parties. Another reason for the 4 and 4.5 oz sizes. Also recently a couple of customers have been documenting how many shaves their getting out of a 7.5 oz and the 4.5 oz sizes and one just reported to me that he’s exactly halfway through his 4.5 oz Vanilla Safi and he’s a 4 pass shaver and he said that the half of jar lasted him longer than a full jar of an even more expensive soap than EOS so what I’m getting is price per shave is low even with my most expensive stock ( not custom ) shave soap. The Vanilla Safi. 

My products may not meet everyone’s price range and I totally understand that but then I’m not trying to compete with $15 to $25 shave soaps. They have their own lane and customer base and I have mine. I try to stay in my own lane and do my own thing. I really enjoy making custom products for my customers and having good communication and relationships with them as well.

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#2,438

Member
Chicago Suburbs
I would not be concerned about the pricing of ETHOS if I did not already have 28 super-elite soaps in my den from 14 different formulas. I also have a similar number of elite soaps. Even if I do not use any of my lesser soaps, that is still sufficient shaving soap to last me for 10-12 years. According to the actuarial tables, I can expect to live another 14 years. Thus, I would likely be covered even if I never purchase another soap.

The large number of soaps in my collection is a result of my desire to evaluate soaps looking for the very best. Most of my super-elite soaps are recent formulations. They were not available when I started wet shaving. If they had been, my collection would look a lot different.

Dragonsbeard likes this post
#2,439
RayClem

I very much know the feeling. I’ve acquired 100’s of soaps throughout my years of traditional wet shaving and a lot of them was when I was a hobbyist and did shave reviews and honestly most I haven’t used in years unless they are really special to me like my Vintage Art of Shaving products that I can still enjoy now and then. So recently trying to simplify my life as I’m going through everything in my place and either selling, donating or throwing away things I don’t need or never use and shaving soaps and aftershaves are one of those things so I just recently went through them all and boxed up the ones I’m probably never going to use for one reason or another and some are very current. I wouldn’t put them on the BST even though I know some would sell very quickly because to me that would be a sign of disrespect to the other soap makers. It’s almost like saying I don’t like your products which in many cases is not the case as it may just be the scent I’m not crazy about . So I’ve decided to box them all up and give them to someone I know is having a bit of a struggle financially and he can sell them. Also going to send some hardware I’m not going to ever use and don’t want to take the time to sell. Their all at my warehouse now and it feels good getting them outta my place. Like you said I had enough soap to last me if I lived to 100 years old and maybe beyond!

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#2,440
(This post was last modified: 01-22-2022, 10:43 PM by Stanmog.)
RayClem,
Would you mind sharing a list of your elite and super-elite soaps?
Thanks.


Regards,
Stan


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