#11

Member
Chicago Suburbs
Because most artisan soapmakers are small operations, sometime operated by a single individua or family, it can be difficult developing, producing and stocking multiple formulas. However, there are a few who do so.

Ariana and Evans still sells their strained yogurt and pig fat formula, although recent efforts are on developing the Kaisen base.
Barrister and Man still sells their Reserve formula without lanolin along with their Excelsior formula that contains lanolin. They also sell the SoftHeart base on a limited basis.
Cold River Soap Works produces soaps under their Glide, Select, Oliva (olive oil based), and Shapenmilk formulas.
Gentleman's Nod has their new Cardinal tallow base as well as an earlier vegan base.
Grooming Department is always coming out with new bases. The current offerings are Nai which is a complex vegan base and Kairos. A revised Mallard duck fat base should be released soon.
Murphy & McNail has their standard Aon base and a limited edition Kodiak base with bear tallow.
Shannon's Soaps has her standard base and a new Rust Belt Reserve formula.
Wet Shaving Products has a tallow based Formula T base and a vegan Rustic base.
Wholly Kaw offers both tallow and vegan versions of their Buffala and Siero soap bases.

If you have unique skin sensitivities and allergies, you will have to try different soaps and find out which work best for you. Some soapmakers sell small samples of their soaps, but not all do.

Personally, I have found soaps containing strong concentrations of lime, lemon, grapefruit, pepper, mint, clove, and cinnamon can cause severe skin irritation. However, I have found that in small concentrations as part of a complex blend of scents, I can tolerate all of these scent notes. Thus, I look for complex scents will a lot of different scent notes so that none of the individual scents will be concentrated enough to trigger a reaction. Using unscented soaps is also an option, although for me, scent plays a large role in the enjoyment of the shave.

Although somewhat pricey, one soap you might consider is Grooming Department Nai. It is probably as close to a "holistic approach to soapmaking" as I have encountered. It is currently sold out, but should be restocked soon. This is a formulation containing 55 ingredients including many specifically designed to nourish the skin. Although you might be scared of using a product with so many ingredients, remember that unless you are strongly allergic to one of the ingredients, it is unlikely that the concentration of any single ingredient is going to be high enough to trigger a reaction. This is a strictly vegan product with no lanolin, milk, whey or animal derived fat. Also, the scents are purposely kept light to minimize reactions from those who might be sensitive to specific scent notes. I have tested 90 different soap formulations and Nai is one of the very best.
#12

Merchant
St. Louis, MO
(06-25-2020, 03:04 AM)DanLaw Wrote: No reason to be sorry. Hell, am happy for guys without or even minimal issues. Cinnamon does seem to raise issues for some although I do adore Cinnamon Girls...they definitely cause a reaction with localized swelling....


I see what you did there.


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Shave Sharp, Look Sharp
#13

Merchant
St. Louis, MO
We invite any of you to try our soap without worry. We’re very conscious of sensitivities and pride ourselves on only 2 known guys that had slight redness with our soap. It was narrowed down to a single ingredient, changed, problem solved.
Doesn’t work, you don’t pay. Period.


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Shave Sharp, Look Sharp
#14

Doctor Strange of Wetshaving
Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
The cosmetic industry is designed for the common user.
In recent years, learning the knowledge of medicine and applied pharmacology, it is producing targeted products.
But the DNA of a cosmetic is different from a pharmaceutical product.
In case of difficulty, I always recommend going to the second.

In men's cosmetics, the problem is the different type of skin.
Thicker, fatter, with hair, and more prone to infections that support inflammation.
So the artisanal product is hardly the ideal solution.
In wetshaving, the only industry that offers targeted products is Saponificio Varesino with its Beta 4.3 line
The only artisanal alternative, Grooming Dept Formula Nai.

All the others are of a previous and different conception.
For my dermatitis problems, not good enough.
So they need various strategies and accessories to be sustainable.

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Where there is a great desire there can be no great difficulty - Niccolò Machiavelli & Me
Greetings from Ischia. Pierpaolo
https://ischiapp.blogspot.com/
#15
After trying close to 50 brands, including some very expensive ones, I have found ETHOS to consistently leave my skin feeling excellent post shave, it’s cushion and slickness is is the best I have used, lathers easily and rinses off my razor and brush better than any other soap I have used. The unscented and Lavender are my favorite and do not effect my Asthma at all.

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#16

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 06-26-2020, 07:25 PM by DanLaw.)
Concurred 100% with shavemd.

ETHOS far and away best for my sensative and damaged skin.  No irritation, no pain, no swelling, no redness: just wonderful boring shaves. It lathers 4 passes from a peanut sized amount using any water, any brush - brainlessly, first time, every time. Cushion is beyond anything ever used as determined by double palm test while providing great (Initial and residual) slickness and off the chart post shave healing all at $5/oz!

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