#11

Mike Distress
New Jersey
(07-27-2023, 12:39 AM)CarbonShavingCo. Wrote: metal_shavings the big challenge with machining this material is very few people have done it. Very little information is publicly available about how to machine it...we had to explore a few techniques and tools. We were not sure we could even do it...we lost a lot of 904L pieces during milling and finishing. The higher % of alloys (Chromium, Nickel and Molybdenum) make it very difficult.

Finishing was also unique...rough finishing took time. Fine finishing took extra steps...

Deus Vult Here are some links and a Rolex videos on the subject:

https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watchmaking/.../materials
904L Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_904L_stainless_steel


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWSKyGRKHYA

904L is a very specific specification(redundant?)..."Oyster" steel as an example might have more or less Molybdenum but it is still 904L. Omega called their version "Uranus" steel which was also 904L. I believe both names are trademarked.

The Cx-904L is not made with "Oyster steel" nor "Uranus steel" but it is still 904L like both of them. I thought about our own name but decided against it.

I ran into a similar question with "Timascus", 2 grades of forged Titanium Damascus. "Timascus" is a trademarked name(and process)...our blacksmiths call their Titanium Damascus, "Damtanium"(process a trade secret). "MokuTi" a play on Mokume-Gane and Ti is another name for Titanium Damascus...I believe it is also trademarked.

Appreciate the comments,
Sean
(Hit me up metal_shavings if/when you need that copper cap!

Very interesting. I like watches also. I have seen Oyster on various Rolex watches (I own none), I had no idea what it even meant. Thought maybe it was a model or something I guess. I suppose it is hard to work with something when you're learning as you go. Trial and error. It has to be tough when something has very little to no usage. I remember the mention of techniques and tools in the blog.

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#12
(07-27-2023, 12:39 AM)CarbonShavingCo. Wrote: metal_shavings the big challenge with machining this material is very few people have done it. Very little information is publicly available about how to machine it...we had to explore a few techniques and tools. We were not sure we could even do it...we lost a lot of 904L pieces during milling and finishing. The higher % of alloys (Chromium, Nickel and Molybdenum) make it very difficult.

Finishing was also unique...rough finishing took time. Fine finishing took extra steps...

Deus Vult Here are some links and a Rolex videos on the subject:

https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watchmaking/.../materials
904L Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_904L_stainless_steel


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWSKyGRKHYA

904L is a very specific specification(redundant?)..."Oyster" steel as an example might have more or less Molybdenum but it is still 904L. Omega called their version "Uranus" steel which was also 904L. I believe both names are trademarked.

The Cx-904L is not made with "Oyster steel" nor "Uranus steel" but it is still 904L like both of them. I thought about our own name but decided against it.

I ran into a similar question with "Timascus", 2 grades of forged Titanium Damascus. "Timascus" is a trademarked name(and process)...our blacksmiths call their Titanium Damascus, "Damtanium"(process a trade secret). "MokuTi" a play on Mokume-Gane and Ti is another name for Titanium Damascus...I believe it is also trademarked.

Appreciate the comments,
Sean
(Hit me up metal_shavings if/when you need that copper cap!

I appreciate your response. Sure, in this application the metallurgical differences will probably never be noticed but I just wanted to point out that there are differences since I understand it’s good marketing to compare any product to a Rolex.

It’s always good to see makers using different steels and I do hope it pushes others to do the same. I’d love to see other “exotic” metals used such as inconel, grade 7 titanium, hastelloy c276, and zirconium.

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#13

novacula regem
Greece
British Flat Bottom Tech
and /or Hybrid Tech .

Replica,exact copy,reissue
reintroduction ...
Call it as you like .

Made from 904L .

Lifetime razor .

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#14

Living on the edge
(07-27-2023, 08:26 AM)Stephanos1920 Wrote: British Flat Bottom Tech
and /or Hybrid Tech .

Replica,exact copy,reissue
reintroduction ...
Call it as you like .

Made from 904L .

Lifetime razor .

Didn't quite follow this...is Gillette British Flat Bottom/Hybrid Tech made from 904L?

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#15

novacula regem
Greece
No.
What I meant with this spartan use
of words was that a lifetime razor would have been a FBT or Hybrid tech exact copy (
CNC made ) or a modern retrofitted replica ,
made of 904L .

Wouldn't be so ?

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#16

Living on the edge
I see what you mean now...apparently the Carbon CX is inspired by the 1940 Gillette Tech design.
The ++ plate shaves really good too, if you shave daily.

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#17

novacula regem
Greece
As with wrist watches .
Every single of them shows the time.
But few are also pieces of art.

Same case goes with the Cx-904L,
in the DE razor world.

A fine piece of metalurgy,of designing,
of machining ,of shaving.

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#18

Merchant
Minneapolis
metal_shavings The Rolex story is very interesting. Rolex was the first to invent a "waterproof" wrist watch (case) in 1926...the Rolex "Oyster". They used the term "Oyster" because the mollusk/oyster is able to shut itself water tight in its shell. I believe they still refer to waterproof watches as "Oyster". This was a big deal and helped bring wristwatches into the mainstream. They used the term "Oyster" again in reference to their steel..."Oyster steel."


Quote:...metallurgical differences will probably never be noticed but I just wanted to point out that there are differences since I understand it’s good marketing to compare any product to a Rolex.

It’s always good to see makers using different steels and I do hope it pushes others to do the same. I’d love to see other “exotic” metals used such as inconel, grade 7 titanium, hastelloy c276, and zirconium.


Deus Vult Thanks again for the comments. I wanted to reiterate again that Cx-904L uses the same grade of stainless steel that Rolex uses...904L. A metal is either 904L or it isn't...I think it is "good marketing" by Rolex to say their 904L is special. Grade 904L is an AISI (American Institute and Steel Institute) standard...not even Rolex is above this standard. The standards are put in place so the metals can be clearly communicated, eliminating "good marketing" or "puffery"...I actually appreciate that.

I think this is more semantics because, to your point and the video also hints at this, it only becomes "Oyster steel" after finishing. How you source material, machine, harden, chemically treat, polish, etc...does make a difference to the end product (performance and beauty) and I agree Rolex is in a class of its own from this perspective (Patek-Philippe maybe a notch above!). However when Rolex and our products are finished...both are still graded AISI 904L stainless steel.

We don't custom forge our Ti, 316L or 904L, I suspect Rolex does custom forge its 904L but I am not sure I or my consumers would see the benefit...we do have custom metals forged specifically for us, including stainless steel damascus (Grade 304 & 316), Titanium Damascus/Damtanium (Grade 2 & 5 Ti) and our Mokume-Gane, we are heavily involved in our requirements. One big difference I noticed from the Rolex video is we polish our pieces by hand (& machines)...I need to get one of those Rolex robot polishers, I wait for that day!

Totally appreciate your thoughts on inconel, grade 7Ti, etc...I had to google some of the material, hard as hell stuff! I explored Zirconium before, not many will risk their mill to machine this metal...the chips are a major fire hazard, way more so than titanium. I always thought Cobalt (very hard to machine!!) would be a cool material for a razor...very heavy! The Darwin was made from this...

Tester28 / Stephanos1920 The Cx was inspire by a Gillette Tech...1940 design was at its pinnacle then! I need to try the British Flat bottom you suggest!

Thanks again for your thoughts and comments,
Sean

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A small company trying to make a great razor...
#19
CarbonShavingCo. Sean, I couldn't imagine how hard it would be to mill a block of zirconium. If you were to try, is it pure zirconium or is it mixed with anything else? In ceramics, we utilize zirconium silicate, usually called by trade name zircopax plus or ultrox. What would you use to tool and mill it with? It's a pretty hard oxide compared to others. Plus, I assume a cobalt razor would be one of your more expensive options.

Great write up on the blog and in the replies. Cheers

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#20
(This post was last modified: 07-28-2023, 12:51 PM by surfboat.)
(07-26-2023, 09:12 PM)CarbonShavingCo. Wrote: I wrote a blog about the material when I was researching the metal, I thought this might help and answer some questions:

https://carbonshavingco.com/blogs/resour...fety-razor

Sorry to be the negative Nancy but that is a lot of ad copy to say it costs a lot. I don't see the point for a razor.

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