Atelier Durdan N°7 razor pass around.....

Update.

Shave on, Gents….

N*7 Pass Around list:
1. GlazedBoker - North Brunswick, NJ - Completed
2. Phoenixkh - Gainesville, FL - Completed
3. cigarman - St. Louis, MO - Completed
4. rocket - Denver, CO - In hand testing
5. Dragonsbeard - Webster, NY
6. Dtownvino - Philadelphia, PA
7. Spacemonkey42 - Williamstown, MA
8. Keto - Aurora, MO
9. Big_T - King,NC
10. Calm_Shaver - NY, NY
11. ewk - Goose Creek, SC
12. Bbssboss - Boston, MA
13. wyze0ne - Farmington Hills, MI
14. Marhos24 - Armada, MI
15. Stickshift - Chicago, IL
16. Einar - Appleton, WI
17. jbreakfield - Daphne, AL
18. Rudy Vey - South Plainfield, NJ
19. WVShaver - Mason, WV

rocket waiting for your review of 1.1 plate

rocket waiting for your review of 1.1 plate

Ha.   I am working on it. Because the razor arrived a bit earlier than planned it overlapped with some business commitments these past two days. However, I have completed two shaves with the 1.1 and started a draft for my initial writeup. I also have a few questions in to Augustin as well. Planning to get a third shave in with the 1.1 and hopefully have the first writeup later today. After that I am going to evaluate some of the other plates with additional thoughts.

Atelier DURDAN No 7 Evaluation Series
1.1 gap - A tour de force

I quietly observe the No 7 as it proudly rests with an attentive stance. Its handle, adorned in a field of diamond shaped embossing, communicates solidity through an expansive girth fitted with stout conical shapes at each endpoint. It beckons for a cry to battle, resplendent in a modern medieval aesthetic. But that aesthetic shifts when viewed side on. Here the No 7 head design takes center stage with something more akin to a refined steampunk. Yet the head and handle concepts are held in balance. Unique and artistic design choices seem to be a hallmark of Augustin's work. And I am admittedly a huge fan. The No 7 tempts me with an indulgent purchase on looks alone. But I must not succumb so quickly.

And while fit and finish overall are as expected, I do see a heavier level of patterning and machine marks on the top cap. Of course this has been well discussed at this point. Augustin shared that they are modifying the finishing process to reduce the traces of machining. But as it has always been the case for Atelier DURDAN, the basic polish level will retain some traces of machining. My suggestion was to achieve something similar to the finish level of the bottom plates of the No 7. I find those to be more than acceptable with a lovely level of polish and hints of machine tracing, depending on what angle it is viewed. Augustin also shared some in process images of the revised top cap machining. These appear to be unfinished parts still in their fixtures. But to my eye, I can see the machining patterns are more regular and parallel than the current top cap. I assume once fully finished, it will result in something inline with the bottom plates. I imagine Augustin will provide images of the fully finished part once it is finalized.

While the No 7 exudes artful design, I now must determine if its shave performance is equally compelling. To prepare for that initial determination, I conducted three shave sessions with the 1.1 plate. The same soap and aftershave setup was used throughout to eliminate variation, along with a Gillette 7 O'clock super platinum blade. This Gillette blade variant has recently become a favorite for my DE collection offering a strong level of efficiency and smoothness. And that blade was well matched to the performance of the 1.1 configuration.

Now reflecting on the initial 1.1 shave, the session began with a fully developed and rich yogurt like lather. As I fully grasped the No 7 handle, its weight and diameter were immediately apparent. I tend to favor handles that offer flexibility in hold points with continuous surfaces and minimal stops. And the No 7 handle provided that experience, along with a balance point aligned with the natural hold position. That is something that I appreciate as it tends to neutralize weight concerns. Although, other aspects of weight considerations would come into play later in the shave session. Overall, the handle weight dominates, but the razor never felt out of balance.

With the razor in position and ready for a first WTG pass, I deployed the No 7 on an initial downward stroke, allowing the weight of the razor to carry out much of the effort. And within that first stroke there was no question that the 1.1 gap was more than equipped to dispatch any stubble it encountered. It was almost a sense of raw power being restrained by the envelope of the razor head. As the WTG pass continued, the No 7 performed effortlessly. A key part of that was selection of angle. I have found that the Vestige and the No 7 seem to offer an optimal balance of efficiency and smoothness when aligned closely with the in built imaginary plane created by the angular "face" of the razor head. Starting with that plane aligned with the surface of the beard terrain, and then rocking slightly back or forward from that position, often results in quiet smoothness. In the case of the No 7, I further modified position with an emphasis towards the cap, although that would shift at times.

At this point, a sense of familiarity and confidence was building. And part of that familiarity triggered a thought: This razor's blade feel is reminding me of another. And the response to that thought conjured a faint echo of the Blackbird. A possibly better description is a distant cousin of the Blackbird. From my experience, the Blackbird communicates the presence of the blade in a stronger and more direct fashion than the No 7. Where the blade presence is noted in the No 7 1.1 configuration, it seems to do so with less emphasis, perhaps in a softer and more refined mode. And for perspective, I generally don't have an issue with blade forward razors. So this is probably shaping my perception as well.

Armed with this new found confidence at the start of the XTG pass, I began exploring a range of engagement angles to determine the flexibility of the razor's positioning. And with that effort the No 7 responded with a number of warnings that care must be taken outside of the optimal positioning. The first warning was a growing audible rumble along with a reduction in smoothness. The vibrations traveled through the handle signaling potential for issues. In conjunction, I noticed a few tiny nicks had occurred. These dissipated quickly and were not observable at final rinse. But they provided a reminder that this razor is not completely care free, at least with the 1.1 gap. This would become more apparent in the final pass. In response to these indicators I returned to a more favorable angle and also became more observant on reducing applied pressure.

With the XTG pass completed, the final test awaited in the ATG pass. This is where blade flex becomes most apparent in my shaving experience. It is also where potential for injury seems to be heightened, when evaluating a new razor. As the first strokes were applied, the quiet smoothness of the earlier passes was less present. I was not achieving an optimal angle. This was ultimately a limitation of the operator as something about the weight of the razor when carried upwards on ATG strokes felt a bit unnatural. Part of that may be related to something I noticed occasionally. The weight of the handle seemed to carry its momentum against adjustments in handle position. As I attempted to adjust my hold positioning mid stroke, it felt as if the handle subtly applied is weight in resistance to the repositioning I sought. It wasn't a significant issue and I am sure would become un-noticed after longer term use.

As the ATG pass continued, I moved my hold to the base of the handle in an effort to further reduce applied pressure. However I did ultimately produce a couple of small nicks in the mustache region and on the chin. The mustache region seemed the most challenged, as I could not quite achieve what felt like a completely safe and smooth engagement. Even though I faced a few challenges in this final pass, I did not perceive any blade flex. And after a generous application of post shave care, there was little feedback detected. Another welcome sign. As might be imagined with a 1.1 gap, a strong level of BBS was achieved resulting in approximately 11 hours of duration.

With the first session completed, I focused on refining my technique in the subsequent sessions. While the experienced outcomes were largely the same as the first session, a few things differed. By the third session I achieved improved angles of engagement during the ATG pass which resulted in a smoothness much closer to the WTG and XTG passes. I also had to consciously focus on even further reduction of applied pressure during the ATG phase. This reduced risk of injury in the mustache region but at a cost of reduced BBS duration. This seems to be another outcome that would improve with more runtime or alternative gap selection. And in the final shave session, I encountered a small issue with a new blade. I had just finished up the tuck of my personal Gillette 7 O'clock blades and availed myself of a fresh copy from an included tuck in the pass around (thank you to whoever included those blades in the package!) When I placed the blade on the top cap posts, it felt a bit tighter than my personal copy. When I went to remove the blade it required a bit of extra effort to remove as well. Again, not dramatic but noticeable.

Also in the final session my attention lapsed. Somehow I achieved a lovely lateral slice when I attempted to reposition the razor for the start of a stroke. Of course this is another operator induced error, and I may need to take a day break for more complete healing. I mention this to re-emphasize this razor is not completely care free at the 1.1 gap, but I also did not feel that this was an overly aggressive configuration. Overall, I felt quite comfortable safely wielding it. And while I absolutely enjoyed the efficiency of this gap, it may be overkill for daily shaving. I have a fairly demanding beard profile and typically gravitate to higher efficiency options. The 1.1 seems to easily satisfy my needs, but I still want to sample the included 1.5 gap, at least once.

One other small observation involved the razor holder. As I removed the razor from the holder at the outset of the ATG pass, I noticed a bit of suction that resisted the removal of the razor. The suction was quickly broken but seemed to be attributed to the presence of liquid that entered the holder from the handle. The conical base of the razor handle also sits lower in the holder than the similarly shaped Vestige handle base. The Vestige's conical base sits just a bit proud of the opening of the holder. Not a major issue but possibly something that could be adjusted in future runs of the holder.

With the 1.1 gap evaluation completed, I will move on to the .7 gap. I am fairly certain the .7 gap will be too mild. But I hope to infer where the .9 gap might land, by comparing the .7 outcomes with the 1.1 gap. And then I will sample the 1.5 gap, while possible returning to the 1.1 for a direct comparison. I also hope to arrive at a final conclusion of whether I will order a No 7. One of the most important factors is differentiation from other razors in my collection. While still early in evaluating the No 7, its unique design aesthetic and shaving experience offer a compelling option that may ultimately find a home in my shaving den.

A happy Fourth of July to all celebrating! 

Excellent and eloquent review, Rocket.  I will be interested to see your results of the .7 compared to the 1.1 and then the 1.5.

Excellent and eloquent review, Rocket.  I will be interested to see your results of the .7 compared to the 1.1 and then the 1.5.

Thanks for the kind words!

Atelier DURDAN No 7 Evaluation Series
1.1 gap - A tour de force

I quietly observe the No 7 as it proudly rests with an attentive stance. Its handle, adorned in a field of diamond shaped embossing, communicates solidity through an expansive girth fitted with stout conical shapes at each endpoint. It beckons for a cry to battle, resplendent in a modern medieval aesthetic. But that aesthetic shifts when viewed side on. Here the No 7 head design takes center stage with something more akin to a refined steampunk. Yet the head and handle concepts are held in balance. Unique and artistic design choices seem to be a hallmark of Augustin's work. And I am admittedly a huge fan. The No 7 tempts me with an indulgent purchase on looks alone. But I must not succumb so quickly.

And while fit and finish overall are as expected, I do see a heavier level of patterning and machine marks on the top cap. Of course this has been well discussed at this point. Augustin shared that they are modifying the finishing process to reduce the traces of machining. But as it has always been the case for Atelier DURDAN, the basic polish level will retain some traces of machining. My suggestion was to achieve something similar to the finish level of the bottom plates of the No 7. I find those to be more than acceptable with a lovely level of polish and hints of machine tracing, depending on what angle it is viewed. Augustin also shared some in process images of the revised top cap machining. These appear to be unfinished parts still in their fixtures. But to my eye, I can see the machining patterns are more regular and parallel than the current top cap. I assume once fully finished, it will result in something inline with the bottom plates. I imagine Augustin will provide images of the fully finished part once it is finalized.

While the No 7 exudes artful design, I now must determine if its shave performance is equally compelling. To prepare for that initial determination, I conducted three shave sessions with the 1.1 plate. The same soap and aftershave setup was used throughout to eliminate variation, along with a Gillette 7 O'clock super platinum blade. This Gillette blade variant has recently become a favorite for my DE collection offering a strong level of efficiency and smoothness. And that blade was well matched to the performance of the 1.1 configuration.

Now reflecting on the initial 1.1 shave, the session began with a fully developed and rich yogurt like lather. As I fully grasped the No 7 handle, its weight and diameter were immediately apparent. I tend to favor handles that offer flexibility in hold points with continuous surfaces and minimal stops. And the No 7 handle provided that experience, along with a balance point aligned with the natural hold position. That is something that I appreciate as it tends to neutralize weight concerns. Although, other aspects of weight considerations would come into play later in the shave session. Overall, the handle weight dominates, but the razor never felt out of balance.

With the razor in position and ready for a first WTG pass, I deployed the No 7 on an initial downward stroke, allowing the weight of the razor to carry out much of the effort. And within that first stroke there was no question that the 1.1 gap was more than equipped to dispatch any stubble it encountered. It was almost a sense of raw power being restrained by the envelope of the razor head. As the WTG pass continued, the No 7 performed effortlessly. A key part of that was selection of angle. I have found that the Vestige and the No 7 seem to offer an optimal balance of efficiency and smoothness when aligned closely with the in built imaginary plane created by the angular "face" of the razor head. Starting with that plane aligned with the surface of the beard terrain, and then rocking slightly back or forward from that position, often results in quiet smoothness. In the case of the No 7, I further modified position with an emphasis towards the cap, although that would shift at times.

At this point, a sense of familiarity and confidence was building. And part of that familiarity triggered a thought: This razor's blade feel is reminding me of another. And the response to that thought conjured a faint echo of the Blackbird. A possibly better description is a distant cousin of the Blackbird. From my experience, the Blackbird communicates the presence of the blade in a stronger and more direct fashion than the No 7. Where the blade presence is noted in the No 7 1.1 configuration, it seems to do so with less emphasis, perhaps in a softer and more refined mode. And for perspective, I generally don't have an issue with blade forward razors. So this is probably shaping my perception as well.

Armed with this new found confidence at the start of the XTG pass, I began exploring a range of engagement angles to determine the flexibility of the razor's positioning. And with that effort the No 7 responded with a number of warnings that care must be taken outside of the optimal positioning. The first warning was a growing audible rumble along with a reduction in smoothness. The vibrations traveled through the handle signaling potential for issues. In conjunction, I noticed a few tiny nicks had occurred. These dissipated quickly and were not observable at final rinse. But they provided a reminder that this razor is not completely care free, at least with the 1.1 gap. This would become more apparent in the final pass. In response to these indicators I returned to a more favorable angle and also became more observant on reducing applied pressure.

With the XTG pass completed, the final test awaited in the ATG pass. This is where blade flex becomes most apparent in my shaving experience. It is also where potential for injury seems to be heightened, when evaluating a new razor. As the first strokes were applied, the quiet smoothness of the earlier passes was less present. I was not achieving an optimal angle. This was ultimately a limitation of the operator as something about the weight of the razor when carried upwards on ATG strokes felt a bit unnatural. Part of that may be related to something I noticed occasionally. The weight of the handle seemed to carry its momentum against adjustments in handle position. As I attempted to adjust my hold positioning mid stroke, it felt as if the handle subtly applied is weight in resistance to the repositioning I sought. It wasn't a significant issue and I am sure would become un-noticed after longer term use.

As the ATG pass continued, I moved my hold to the base of the handle in an effort to further reduce applied pressure. However I did ultimately produce a couple of small nicks in the mustache region and on the chin. The mustache region seemed the most challenged, as I could not quite achieve what felt like a completely safe and smooth engagement. Even though I faced a few challenges in this final pass, I did not perceive any blade flex. And after a generous application of post shave care, there was little feedback detected. Another welcome sign. As might be imagined with a 1.1 gap, a strong level of BBS was achieved resulting in approximately 11 hours of duration.

With the first session completed, I focused on refining my technique in the subsequent sessions. While the experienced outcomes were largely the same as the first session, a few things differed. By the third session I achieved improved angles of engagement during the ATG pass which resulted in a smoothness much closer to the WTG and XTG passes. I also had to consciously focus on even further reduction of applied pressure during the ATG phase. This reduced risk of injury in the mustache region but at a cost of reduced BBS duration. This seems to be another outcome that would improve with more runtime or alternative gap selection. And in the final shave session, I encountered a small issue with a new blade. I had just finished up the tuck of my personal Gillette 7 O'clock blades and availed myself of a fresh copy from an included tuck in the pass around (thank you to whoever included those blades in the package!) When I placed the blade on the top cap posts, it felt a bit tighter than my personal copy. When I went to remove the blade it required a bit of extra effort to remove as well. Again, not dramatic but noticeable.

Also in the final session my attention lapsed. Somehow I achieved a lovely lateral slice when I attempted to reposition the razor for the start of a stroke. Of course this is another operator induced error, and I may need to take a day break for more complete healing. I mention this to re-emphasize this razor is not completely care free at the 1.1 gap, but I also did not feel that this was an overly aggressive configuration. Overall, I felt quite comfortable safely wielding it. And while I absolutely enjoyed the efficiency of this gap, it may be overkill for daily shaving. I have a fairly demanding beard profile and typically gravitate to higher efficiency options. The 1.1 seems to easily satisfy my needs, but I still want to sample the included 1.5 gap, at least once.

One other small observation involved the razor holder. As I removed the razor from the holder at the outset of the ATG pass, I noticed a bit of suction that resisted the removal of the razor. The suction was quickly broken but seemed to be attributed to the presence of liquid that entered the holder from the handle. The conical base of the razor handle also sits lower in the holder than the similarly shaped Vestige handle base. The Vestige's conical base sits just a bit proud of the opening of the holder. Not a major issue but possibly something that could be adjusted in future runs of the holder.

With the 1.1 gap evaluation completed, I will move on to the .7 gap. I am fairly certain the .7 gap will be too mild. But I hope to infer where the .9 gap might land, by comparing the .7 outcomes with the 1.1 gap. And then I will sample the 1.5 gap, while possible returning to the 1.1 for a direct comparison. I also hope to arrive at a final conclusion of whether I will order a No 7. One of the most important factors is differentiation from other razors in my collection. While still early in evaluating the No 7, its unique design aesthetic and shaving experience offer a compelling option that may ultimately find a home in my shaving den.

A happy Fourth of July to all celebrating! 

Excellent read, sir.
Bravo, Bravo.....

Wow!  This is definitely one of the eloquent reviews I have read.  Your description of the razor and how you articulated the entire process was exceptional.  It provided a thorough understanding of your experience—thank you!

Exceptional review! rocket you have now made my decision between the N7 and La Faulx more difficult. I do not have any SE razors now, so I was leaning towards the La Faulx, but would like feedback from people who have used both.

If you could only choose one, which would you choose—the N7 or La Faulx??

Exceptional review! rocket you have now made my decision between the N7 and La Faulx more difficult. I do not have any SE razors now, so I was leaning towards the La Faulx, but would like feedback from people who have used both.

If you could only choose one, which would you choose—the N7 or La Faulx??

I have used the No. 7, 1.5, 1.1 and .7.  I also own the La Faulx Classic and the ++.  To me there is no comparison on comfort, smoothness and efficiency.  The LA FAULX, hands down.