(02-27-2024, 03:41 AM)RayClem Wrote:(02-26-2024, 09:37 PM)Tedolph Wrote: Only 6-8 shaves from a straight razor before it needs to be touched up on stones?
That is not even one day of shaving for an Italian barber.
Respectfully, something is wrong.
What is wrong is that I have a super tough beard and super sensitive skin.
I have to hone my razors on a 20K Suehiro stone (0.5 micron) and then polish the edges using abrasives as fine as 0.1 micron to make the blade provide a comfortable shave. Many people can shave with an edge honed on a 8 K Norton stone or Coticule, but such a blade rips my stubble out rather than cutting it.
Because the edge is so thin, it is very fragile and requires frequent maintenance. Stropping on fabric and leather alone is not sufficient to maintain the razor in a condition where it will provide a comfortable shave. Those who live around the Mediterranean sea do not typically have skin as sensitive as mine. I cannot even face lather without brush irritation. I would never consider a shave provided by an Italian barber.
BTW: My favorite DE blades are BIC Chrome Platinum, Gillette Nacet and 7 O'Clock Super Platinum black. They are both super sharp and smooth. I can get four good shaves using them. I can only get two good shaves with Feather blades; after that the edge deteriorates to the point that on the third shave ithe blade feels harsh on my skin. Thus, I consider getting 6-8 shaves from a straight razor to be quite remarkable in comparison.
Wow. Well, I can see that we have very different situations. As you suggest, I have a Mediterranean beard and complexion. My beard is tough, but my skin is oily and not that sensitive. I can get by fine with an edge sharpened on a 12K finishing stone. I could probably get by with an 8K edge, although I wouldn't enjoy it. One thing I do notice that has the greatest effect on how much tugging I get against the grain is not my edge, it is what soap I use. Some are just much better at softening my beard than others and that seems to make the greatest difference. Even among tallow soaps there is a significant difference, and it is not proportional to price. The old Fine Accoutrements tallow based soap and believe it or not Arko were the best at softening my beard. Many so called "artisan" soaps have been disappointments. For many years, I have been very satisfied with Cella. It is relatively cheap and does a better job softening my beard than many other more expensive tallow soaps, and all glycerine soaps I have tried.
Best of luck to you.