Varlet is moving to Order Form

Just want to provide a little perspective and do a simple breakdown as I think it will help for folks to see things more clearly. I have been travelling this past week and have not had a chance to respond. First, I just want to clarify my last post... with regards to some viewing it as a "threat" to quit making brushes and get a job.

What I meant by that was this: I can't lower the price for a certain amount of my time, because that time is finite. So, if the market doesn't respond to the prices I've set then it does me no good to lower my prices, because in the end I won't survive as a business. I have to set the price based on what the brushes require in terms of time, because I won't sacrifice quality in any way. After that is set, then it's my job to let you know as a buyer why it is worth it for your time (because money = time), to own one of my brushes. That's it. If I can't get that accomplished, then the whole thing is done. I felt I had to make this known because these are products of a different sort. The supply and demand paradigm is a little different, and not the usual "if we don't buy it, he will lower his prices."  

Virtually all of the pricing increase is due to the additional time I'll be spending with a custom made-to-order format and better service, which is something that I had to do as it was CLEAR that the old way was not working, and not just on a professional level. There have been threads which were a bit embarrassing for me to read (this is not one of them) and the fact that they were public made it less palatable on a personal level, because everything can be found nowadays with a simple google search and I have family, friends, and a social circle just like everyone else. I felt, erroneously, that if guys were getting amazing quality that they'd be willing to put up with some delays and spotty communication, which was sometimes necessary for me. With that said, I never want to see feedback (especially public) like that again so I MUST improve my customer service, because I will not ask anyone to censor themselves.

Also, if any of you knew me in person you would know that I'm not very boastful. I actually feel a little bit out of place always talking about the quality of the brushes, but it's something I feel is my responsibility to do and also I think it's fair to everyone looking at the brushes, especially the newer guys. Please don't take that as my ego or anything of the sort but I'm just doing my due diligence as a supplier of goods and also to help continue the craftsmanship guidelines for brushes that have been talked about for decades, which I think is a positive thing. Think of the watch industry, they have such things as the Geneva Seal, Cotes de Geneve, perlage, anglage, etc. etc. and these are all established markers of quality which all watch companies have agreed to follow and respect, and in return they can charge a premium for the time it takes to achieve these attributes of quality. I am not saying that we need to establish anything of the sort but I think it is good for everyone to at least know why you are paying what you are.

Let me just give a quick breakdown and hopefully we can continue to calmly and productively discuss if need be. Let's look at the Ranger 29mm XD. The last price for a ready-made was at $310 plus $8 shipping. That same brush spec is now $495 shipped free. A difference of $177.

Where is that additional money going? The brush will be the same quality. So what do you get (and forgive my repetitiveness)? Yes, the brush on paper is the same, but you are getting a guarantee of ownership, less time invested in trying to buy one and a less stressful purchase process, and you get it exactly how you want it from a list of options, plus much improved and direct access to the guy making it for you. Pretty good in my opinion. I know most of you are looking at just the price of the brush but you are not considering everything else. 

The only regret I have is making such an abrupt change, and I do fully understand the minor uproar. It's a misstep for sure, but I've made many of those and I'm still here!

As far as the Everset line... I don't want to think of that as a Rolex/Tudor type of scenario, because if you look at Tudor, the quality is just about on par with Rolex, perhaps a little lower but not by much, when comparing similar materials. In my opinion, Rolex can manufacture just as many Submariners as they do Black Bays, but they choose not to because they are making a marketing move, to put it simply. Of course, Rolex are masters at what they do and I would never presume to know for sure what they are doing, and they are going to do what they feel is best, and they'll succeed. I can't set my pricing as a marketing strategy like Rolex can, because I can't compare with Rolex in the least bit. I have to set my pricing based on my production capabilities for the best chance at success. I appreciate the comparison but just wanted to give my opinion on it, for the sake of discussion.

I designed the Everset line to be able to make more brushes, and get an American brush in as many hands as possible at a price which is not at the higher end but that also makes sense for me as a manufacturer. I would feel a great sense of accomplishment if I could make something like the Everset line work, but one thing at a time. That's still a project that is a possibility (with a different name perhaps) but at the moment I would like to focus on The Varlet establishing itself as a custom shaving brush with great service.

So you are saying it is the same brush but the extra money is so I can actually get one with less time and stress invested in trying to get one?? Hmmm??!

So you are saying it is the same brush but the extra money is so I can actually get one with less time and stress invested in trying to get one?? Hmmm??!

Mental health is expensive nowadays you know.

So you are saying it is the same brush but the extra money is so I can actually get one with less time and stress invested in trying to get one??    Hmmm??!

And it’s custom made to your specifications established in direct communication with the maker rather than purchased ready made to whatever specifications on a take it or leave it basis. Assuming you can get it at all. Seems fair to me.

Many years ago (about 41) I worked as an apprentice carpenter for a general contractor. Most of my time was spent out on jobs but occasionally during a slow period I would work in the shop. The senior carpenter in the shop was an old Romanian guy who had trained in the old country traditions. He was an artist with wood. Hand carved cabriolet legs, amazing marquetry, Beauty and artistry in everything he did. He was a cranky old SOB but if you showed him respect, he might teach you something.

In the old country where he trained and worked most of his life, his place was that of an artisan craftsman plying his trade for the wealthy. He never set his rates, the patron paid him what they felt he was worth and they had the responsibility to be fair as it reflected badly on them if they exploited or took advantage by not remunerating in accordance with the quality and skill of the craftsman. Funny thing was, when he came to North America steeped in this tradition of humbly accepting what the patron thought he was worth, he got royally screwed. People thought it was great that they could pay this guy ikea prices for amazing craftsmanship. Now they’d only get the one job. He wasn’t stupid but he was disappointed that the reciprocal respect and responsibility didn’t seem to exist here. That’s the thing, items like these brushes that are handmade by a single artisan toiling away the hours of their life in pursuit of a craft have value. What is the value? Maybe priceless but realistically there is a market and if a man can sell the product of his life’s limited time for a certain price, why would he ever entertain the very idea that he should sell it for less?  It’s ridiculous. There’s only so many hours in a day and so many (how many?) days in a lifetime. Make them count. 

As an aside, I drove my daughter to work this morning. She’s a NICU nurse. While pulling up to the doors of the hospital we drove by an ambulance that had raced past us on the road moments before. The back doors of the ambulance were open and two firefighters were giving the patient CPR in the back of the ambulance. The patient was dead. His days had run out on a cold Monday morning in February.

People thought it was great that they could pay this guy ikea prices for amazing craftsmanship.

I enjoyed your story on the Romanian carpenter and reflections on the shortness of life.
All valid.

However, I feel that Varlet's old price of $280 for a 29mm brush was hardly what you would
compare to 'Ikea prices'. I don't think anyone even protested when the prices went to $310
for same brush.

I am sure those handles in particular take more time than other handles from high end makers.

It's hard to see this huge and sudden hike as anything more than a move to assert superiority claims over
other brush makers of similar quality. As aways, customers will decide the veracity of such
a claim.

I’d hope whoever has taken the plunge so far or decides to is comfortable enough to share the experience here when their brush arrives. The order process, time to completion after approval, and time to receive shipping info and then the actual brush is all part of what should theoretically be improved as well. Of note is that these are not fully customizable as per the note on the website so it appears that even subtle tweaks like loft etc are not being accommodated at this time...so still fairly standard configurations. Up until now we can only really judge experience with the hardware itself and the experiences we’ve had up to this point. We are also very well familiar with the fact that hair batches can and do vary. With hair variances some of these brushes may be deemed by the owner to be worth twice what was paid, while other batches possibly not. Sharing of the new higher priced experience will help provide insights into wether there exists any additional value in the price increases or if it’s going to just put something you’re pretty much already familiar with in your hands sooner.

So you are saying it is the same brush but the extra money is so I can actually get one with less time and stress invested in trying to get one??    Hmmm??!

The quality is the same, the brush is what you want it to be. The additional cost is so I can have the time to set up and manage a system in which you can order what you want with communication to you throughout the process should you have any questions or concerns. It's the difference between a ready-made brush and a custom brush.

Of course, as I have said I understand the frustration and do regret the jarring nature of the change, but I am confident in my decision for the long run and when all is considered I think folks will be happy to have this as a choice. After all it is exactly that... an option if you want something of this nature.

I’d hope whoever has taken the plunge so far or decides to  is comfortable enough to share the experience here when their brush arrives. The order process, time to completion after approval, and time to receive shipping info and then the actual brush is all part of what should theoretically be improved as well. Of note is that these are not fully customizable as per the note on the website so it appears that even subtle tweaks like loft etc are not being accommodated at this time...so still fairly standard configurations.  Up until now we can only really judge experience with the hardware itself and the experiences we’ve had up to this point. We are also very well familiar with the fact that hair batches can and do vary. With hair variances some of these brushes may be deemed by the owner to be worth twice what was paid, while other batches possibly not.  Sharing of the new higher priced experience will help provide insights into wether there exists any additional value in the price increases or if it’s going to just put something you’re pretty much already familiar with in your hands sooner.

I will have to respectfully disagree with you in regards to the options being standard... there are many many configurations possible. Also, after a certain amount of customization I would hope that customers trust my judgement with regards to knot loft etc. At that point it's my job to know how to construct a knot to make it perform the best it can, whether it is the traditionally spec knots or the XD. It's something I would want if I was ordering something custom made for me. I would not want to design a home, I would hire an architect to take my vision and implement his/her expertise to create a home I would enjoy living in. If I am paying a premium I do not want to stress over the details, that is what you pay someone else to do!

Also, I would love for folks to chime in when they start receiving their brushes... I am with you on that.

Four weeks ago I contacted Brett Mozingo and placed a custom order.  I asked for a ZT2 custom hand tied badger knot placed in a custom poured and turned resin handle.  He responded to all my emails promptly during production and provided tracking numbers when shipped.  It arrived 4 weeks after placing the order.  After 6-7 shaves the tips have gelled nicely and broken in.  It is softer than my Declaration B5 and B6.  I really like it.  It cost $220.  Custom orders are $40 more that the regular priced brushes.  

Four weeks ago I contacted Brett Mozingo and placed a custom order.  I asked for a ZT2 custom hand tied badger knot placed in a custom poured and turned resin handle.  He responded to all my emails promptly during production and provided tracking numbers when shipped.  It arrived 4 weeks after placing the order.  After 6-7 shaves the tips have gelled nicely and broken in.  It is softer than my Declaration B5 and B6.  I really like it.  It cost $220.  Custom orders are $40 more that the regular priced brushes.  

Now that's a very fair price for a custom brush and for good customer service! I'll most likely get a brush from Brett as well.
Nice handle by the way

Edited to say that's not a diss to Aldo, it's just that Brett's prices are more in line with what I'm willing/can pay for a brush.