#1

Member
Minneapolis
I gave been thinking of polishing my ATT SE1 cap and base plate. Only problem is I don't know how to do it. Could anyone offer suggestions? Thanks.
-Mark
#2
Sand paper first.

Micro mesh polishing pads.

Lots of time and effort.

It's not easy. I've tried. Good luck.

I'm hoping to see some more informative suggestions in this thread though than mine.
Shave yourself.
-Todd
#3
Sorry-I deleted my post where I recommended Flitz polishing liquid for polishing a razor. Re-reading your post, Mark, I think you mean giving a polished finish to a machined or satin finish razor. Flitz is good for general polishing and taking out small surface imperfections.
All the best,

Michael P
#4

That Bald Guy with the Big Beard
Bishop, CA
I've never polished a razor to finish, but at the very least, you're going to need a variable speed buffing wheel, a variety of buffing pads, and a progression of pastes and rouges. A lot of patience and effort will help.

There's a reason super-polished razors command a high price. Very labor intensive process...

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-Chris~Head Shaver~
#5

Merchant
San Diego CA
Depending on the finish you begin with you want to start with a lower grit sandpaper to remove machining marks. Somewhere around 220 is usually good. Be careful here as you don't want to remove too much metal. Then go up in steps (~400, 800, 1k, etc) to the highest grit you can find. Rotate the direction of your strokes 90degs with each new paper so you can see the previous marks left by the last paper. Make sure you get all the marks or you'll have to go back later and redo it. You'll probably want to go to 2k at least. The higher you go the easier the actual polishing will be. After sanding, move on to a standard two-step polishing process.

The key is to take your time and ensure each step is complete before moving on. Otherwise you'll wind up with scratches that you can't remove. Good luck!

BadDad, Michael P, Blade4vor and 4 others like this post
#6

Member
Minneapolis
(07-04-2017, 04:07 PM)BadDad Wrote: I've never polished a razor to finish, but at the very least, you're going to need a variable speed buffing wheel, a variety of buffing pads, and a progression of pastes and rouges. A lot of patience and effort will help.

There's a reason super-polished razors command a high price. Very labor intensive process...

After sanding, I wonder if a buffing wheel on a dremel would be sufficient.

BadDad and Michael P like this post
-Mark
#7

That Bald Guy with the Big Beard
Bishop, CA
(07-04-2017, 04:14 PM)Blackland Razors Wrote: Depending on the finish you begin with you want to start with a lower grit sandpaper to remove machining marks. Somewhere around 220 is usually good. Be careful here as you don't want to remove too much metal. Then go up in steps (~400, 800, 1k, etc) to the highest grit you can find. Rotate the direction of your strokes 90degs with each new paper so you can see the previous marks left by the last paper. Make sure you get all the marks or you'll have to go back later and redo it. You'll probably want to go to 2k at least. The higher you go the easier the actual polishing will be. After sanding, move on to a standard two-step polishing process.

The key is to take your time and ensure each step is complete before moving on. Otherwise you'll wind up with scratches that you can't remove. Good luck!

This is the access to information we get at DFS with the open interaction between vendors and customers that you just don't get behind a velvet rope looking into a VIP Room.

Thanks for taking the time to explain the process to all of us!

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-Chris~Head Shaver~
#8

Member
Minneapolis
(07-04-2017, 04:07 PM)BadDad Wrote: I've never polished a razor to finish, but at the very least, you're going to need a variable speed buffing wheel, a variety of buffing pads, and a progression of pastes and rouges. A lot of patience and effort will help.

There's a reason super-polished razors command a high price. Very labor intensive process...

(07-04-2017, 04:14 PM)Blackland Razors Wrote: Depending on the finish you begin with you want to start with a lower grit sandpaper to remove machining marks. Somewhere around 220 is usually good. Be careful here as you don't want to remove too much metal. Then go up in steps (~400, 800, 1k, etc) to the highest grit you can find. Rotate the direction of your strokes 90degs with each new paper so you can see the previous marks left by the last paper. Make sure you get all the marks or you'll have to go back later and redo it. You'll probably want to go to 2k at least. The higher you go the easier the actual polishing will be. After sanding, move on to a standard two-step polishing process.

The key is to take your time and ensure each step is complete before moving on. Otherwise you'll wind up with scratches that you can't remove. Good luck!

Thanks!
-Mark
#9
(This post was last modified: 07-05-2017, 01:06 AM by ANG69.)
(07-04-2017, 04:24 PM)Whiskey Sour Wrote:
(07-04-2017, 04:07 PM)BadDad Wrote: I've never polished a razor to finish, but at the very least, you're going to need a variable speed buffing wheel, a variety of buffing pads, and a progression of pastes and rouges. A lot of patience and effort will help.

There's a reason super-polished razors command a high price. Very labor intensive process...

After sanding, I wonder if a buffing wheel on a dremel would be sufficient.

After the process that Shane described, I use a handheld cordless Dremel Rotary and Polinoxx Swiss Final Polishing Compound for Hard Metals Stainless Steel Nickel and Titanium (http://www.esslinger.com/polinoxx-swiss-...-titanium/). I use a progression of buffing wheels from hard to soft. After I am done with the Dremel polishing my final touch is with the "Sunshine Polishing Cloth." The whole process is very labor intensive and time consuming but is rewarding. Good luck!

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#10

Member
Minneapolis
(This post was last modified: 07-05-2017, 12:58 AM by Whiskey Sour.)
Thanks ANG69!

ANG69 likes this post
-Mark


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