#11
(This post was last modified: 02-24-2024, 11:10 AM by Gasman.)
Go with the feather if you want shavette.

Buy a vintage american straight razor from someone who restores them. Not just an ebay seller of old stuff. A good vintage american straight that is honed and ready to used will cost about 50 bucks and go up. But you will have a razor that will hold an edge, shave well and has shaved well for decades. 
IMO, stay away from gold dollar. Buy a real razor.

If you want to go Straight, you need a strop. Its best to have two straights as when one needs honed you can continue shaving with the other.

The shavette will work and get the job done and takes less effort. But to go Straight takes more dedication. Time, effort to learn and you will need to have someone hone for you. After a year or so you can start the learning process of honing. But that to takes time to learn. To hone properly.

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From the shade of the big mountain, Pike's Peak.
Jerry...
#12
(02-24-2024, 10:47 AM)Gasman Wrote: Go with the feather if you want shavette.

Buy a vintage american straight razor from someone who restores them. Not just an ebay seller of old stuff. A good vintage american straight that is honed and ready to used will cost about 50 bucks and go up. But you will have a razor that will hold an edge, shave well and has shaved well for decades. 
IMO, stay away from gold dollar. Buy a real razor.

If you want to go Straight, you need a strop. Its best to have two straights as when one needs honed you can continue shaving with the other.

The shavette will work and get the job done and takes less effort. But to go Straight takes more dedication. Time, effort to learn and you will need to have someone hone for you. After a year or so you can start the learning process of honing. But that to takes time to learn. To hone properly.
The honing has kept me away from straights. How long and how difficult is it? I struggle with pocket knives. ?

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#13
There is a lot of misunderstanding about this. If you maintain the edge of a straight razor properly by stropping before and after each shave, your straight should never need to be fully honed. Every six months or so you can do a few laps on a $20 touch up stone (Arkansas stone works great for that) followed by a few laps on a pasted canvas strop. You only need to hone a SR on a series of wet stones of differing grit if you have damaged the edge and need to reset the bevel. Having said that, there are some who are very demanding of having a very, very sharp edge on a SR. Those folks do need to hone their razor on a regular basis. The rest of us? Not so much. Keep in mind that straight razors were the primary way every man got shaved for hundreds of years. They did not use five different progressions of stones to maintain their razors. Barbers had a single "barber's stone", a canvas strop and and leather stop. That is all. You can still find barber's stones around and they are probably about 6000-8000 grit. And those were used by barbers who shaved multiple people every day. You are only shaving yourself a few times per week.

Finally, touching up a SR on a refreshing stone is way easier than sharpening a knife. The spine of the razor is your angle guide. You lay it down on top of the stone while you are doing your laps. It is helpful to have a loupe or 30x magnifier so that you can see what condition the edge is in, whether it has any chips, etc. and also so that you can see the effects of your touch up stone and pasted strop. People who restore razors and are doing this all the time can do this with the naked eye, watching how the light reflects off the edge-I can not and have to use the magnifier.

One more thing. Someone up thread said that a Gold Dollar is not a real razor. I currently have two (one over ten years old) and they shave just fine. Millions of men around the world shave with them every day.

Full disclosure: I have a series of wet stones and use them occasionally. Most of the time, it isn't necessary.

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#14
(This post was last modified: 02-25-2024, 03:13 AM by Gasman.)
You can learn to hone after you learn to shave with a straight. Its said that is best so you understand what a shave ready edge is and are not shaving with an edge that is not proper when learning to shave.

 But as was said, most the time its just a touch up needed and not a full session of honing. Unless you drop it or ding it on the sink or faucet, or decided to get unto restoring razors. Although when learning to strop you can damage an edge also. 

Some people say honing is easy. They buy special sandpaper and hone on that. They say they get sharp edges. IMO it takes a couple years to learn to properly hone. Meaning you can pick up any razor and with two or three laps on a stone you know what gymnastics are needed to get a proper edge. Then learning the difference between a keen edge, harsh sharp edge and a comfortable edge, and how to produce each. To touch up and edge i find a 12k stone and a pasted strop will do ya fine. 

20 to 25 years ago an 8k stone was considered a finish stone as far as synthetic stones go. Now 12k to 20k stones are finish stones. A microscope can show you things on an edge that you cant feel. So the 15 to 30 loupe is best to learn to see whats on an edge

As you can tell, if you want to take on the learning of using a straight you have to be serious about it. It is a great way to shave. When i want a great shave and dont want to mess with a possiblity of weepers or not a close enough or too much of a shave i go to the straight. I can shave with any style razor and that took many years to learn but its all part of the game. 

I dont want to discourage anyone enterested in straights. Its worth the effort to learn. And learning to strop along with it is enough of an up hill anyone should take on at once.

If anyone wants more info just pm me. I love to help

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From the shade of the big mountain, Pike's Peak.
Jerry...
#15
(This post was last modified: 02-25-2024, 04:29 AM by TommyCarioca.)
Thanks Gasman and Tedolph. The whole process is intriguing to me. I will have to do my homework and get with you guys to see if I have the right stuff! The mental determination that is.
Great info. Thanks gents.

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#16
(02-25-2024, 04:24 AM)TommyCarioca Wrote: Thanks Gasman and Tedolph. The whole process is intriguing to me. I will have to do my homework and get with you guys to see if I have the right stuff! The mental determination that is.
Great info. Thanks gents.

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You have the right stuff. All you need is the desire to succeed.

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#17

Member
Chicago Suburbs
Most of the time I shave with a DE razor, but do love shaving with a straight razor. What I do not like is the maintenance required to keep a straight razor sharp enough for my beard and smooth enough for my face. I can only get 3-4 good shaves from most DE blades and about twice that from a straight razor before it needs some touch up. Many people can get dozens of shaves before needing to have it rehoned. Fortunately, my refresh process is far quicker than a rehone.

If you purchase a straight razor from a factory, it is highly unlikely to be capable of giving a great shave out of the box. However, there are some vendors who are skilled at honing and can deliver your razor "shave ready", unless you are like me and prefer super sharp, super smooth edges. Now if you spend the money to purchase a custom straight razor, it should be well honed, but I cannot recommend doing that as a new straight razor user.

A couple of vendors worth checking our are Griffith Shaving Goods in RI and Maggard Razor in OH. If you decide to go with a fixed blade straight, here are a couple of pointers.

1, Many new straight razor shavers pick a 5/8" razor as they are less expensive. I only have one 5/8" razor and i NEVER use it. I much prefer 6/8" and 7/8" blades. Since d7/8" blades tend to be expensive, I would recommend a 6/8" if you can find one at a price you can afford. Surprisingly, the inexpensive Gold Dollar razors are 6/8", but unless you get on modified and honed professionally, I cannot recommend them to a newcomer. Get a blade you know is capable of getting a good shave.

2. Straight razor come with a variety of tip shapes. While I love Spanish, Irish, French and square points, they all require careful technique to avoid nicks from the tip. I recommend a newcomer start with a round point as they are more forgiving of poor technique.

3. While there are factory made blade from the likes of Dovo, Boker and Thiers Issard, too many hands in the production process can make for spotty quality, even with expensive razors. Two brands I recommend are Ralf Aust and Heribert Wacker, artisans from Germany. These are small shops who take pride in their work. I used to recommend Brian Brown of Brown Razor Works in TN, but his web site has been down for a while now. If you can find one of Brian's razors on the used market, it is worth considering. If you do purchase a razor from Dovo, Boker, or Thiers Issard, be sure to purchase from someone who can hone it properly. You do not have to worry about that with Ralf Aust and Wacker razors, they will be shave ready.

If you do purchase a straight razor, you will need a decent strop to maintain it. You do not need to get a super expensive strop, especially as a newcomer. There is a learning curve to master the muscle memory needed to strop a razor. During this process, you are highly likely to cut nicks into the strop face. While minor nicks can be sanded out, you do not want to do this with an expensive strop. I can recommend strops by Tony Miller of Heirloom Strop Company. He is a great guy. While he makes some very nice strops for experienced shavers, he also makes what he calls a Plain Vanilla and Plain Chocolate strops. While these strops are not made with the finest quality hardware, leather, and fabric components, they are good enough to get you started and last you are a good part of your journey until you are ready for a better strop. They are around $50.

Whipped dog makes a Poor Man's Strop costing $16. It can get you started, but it is only 2" wide (vs 3" for Tony' strop) and it only comes with as leather component. The $25 kit also includes a piece of polyester belt material to use as the cloth component. You can certainly start with a Whipped Dog strop and then upgrade to something better later.

There are some inexpensive barber-stype shavettes. I do not recommend them as the quality is poor, the balance is poor and they are too light for proper feel. Parker makes some shavettes like the Parker SRX that are slightly more expensive and a step up in quality. Many of these shavettes use half-DE blades which you can either purchase dcut in half or snap them in half yourself.

The best shavettes are ones my Kai Captain and Feather Artist Club shavettes. They are higher quality and will provide a shave more like a real straight razor. They use Feather Artist Club razor blades. There are a few varieties of these blade. If you decide to go the Artist Club route, do some research of the blade types available to make sure you select on suitable for your beard and experience level. You might want to start with the Feather Pro Guard blades. I beleive the Feather Pro Super blades are the most aggressive.
#18
Only 6-8 shaves from a straight razor before it needs to be touched up on stones?

That is not even one day of shaving for an Italian barber.

Respectfully, something is wrong.
#19
You could buy a razor from Victor / Bluesman7 of Denver. He custom makes his own razors and they are top notch. Also I think last weeks SOTD pic (on a different forum) was shave 3224 on the same edge. But this could have something to do with ability. LOL

The tips Ray gave are solid. I will add the old saying...
It takes 100 shaves with a straight before you understand what your really doing. And at 200 shaves you will find out you didn't know squat when you were at 100 shaves. LOL Funny but very true.
From the shade of the big mountain, Pike's Peak.
Jerry...
#20

Member
Chicago Suburbs
(02-26-2024, 09:37 PM)Tedolph Wrote: Only 6-8 shaves from a straight razor before it needs to be touched up on stones? 

That is not even one day of shaving for an Italian barber. 

Respectfully, something is wrong.

What is wrong is that I have a super tough beard and super sensitive skin.

I have to hone my razors on a 20K Suehiro stone (0.5 micron) and then polish the edges using abrasives as fine as 0.1 micron to make the blade provide a comfortable shave. Many people can shave with an edge honed on a 8 K Norton stone or Coticule, but such a blade rips my stubble out rather than cutting it. 

Because the edge is so thin, it is very fragile and requires frequent maintenance. Stropping on fabric and leather alone is not sufficient to maintain the razor in a condition where it will provide a comfortable shave. Those who live around the Mediterranean sea do not typically have skin as sensitive as mine. I cannot even face lather without brush irritation. I would never consider a shave provided by an Italian barber.

BTW: My favorite DE blades are BIC Chrome Platinum, Gillette Nacet and 7 O'Clock Super Platinum black. They are both super sharp and smooth. I can get four good shaves using them. I can only get two good shaves with Feather blades; after that the edge deteriorates to the point that on the third shave ithe blade feels harsh on my skin. Thus, I consider getting 6-8 shaves from a straight razor to be quite remarkable in comparison.

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